I've got a Husqvarna 450e (Euro model I'm guessing), but lately the chain has been coming off the bar, and in the process damaging 5 or 6 drive links. I know to file the links so they enter the groove, but I'm looking for the real problem.

The saw is 13 years old and runs like a top after cutting lots of wood. Looking on the web for potential causes, I checked out my bar with a straightedge and it isn't perfectly straight. If my straightedge touches both ends, the middle is only a tad more than 1/16th" out.

My question is whether this is enough to cause the chain problem.

The bar is an Oregon 20" and the first replacent bar I've ever put on the saw.

Thanks.

Pete

How old is the bar ?

Have you ran the bar upside down yet ?

grind your bar so the groove is flat. keep the chain tight, ccheck the drive sprocket and the nose sprocket.

File the burs and flip the bar regularly.
Is there any chips in the bar where the chain rides?
This will happen if you dont file the bar.
Did you ever pinch the bar in a kerf?

I have the exact problem on my husky. It's frustrating. Saw shop has no idea why it damages the drive links when it comes off. Old husky never did this. I just got to be real careful to keep the chain light, which seems to more of an issue on this new saw, and make sure it doesn't get in a spot it throws the chain. It's a real pain to file the bur off the drive link on the chain when it throws the chain.

My issue isn't why the chain comes off or how to prevent it but rather why is this new saw damaging the drive links on the chain when I've never had this issue on any other saws?

Drive link damage is due to the drive sprocket still turning when the chain jumps off. Drive sprocket buggers the drive links. Usually you can put the chain back on very loose and run the saw for a few seconds and it will deburr the drive links. Then tighten and you should be ok. If drive links are buggered real bad, then like others said you may need to take a file to them. Constant chain jumping off is usually bar issues or chain too loose.

time for a new bar and chain, it is not worth an accident that is going to happen
every cord the bar should be flipped ( 2000 cuts)

Check your chain for links that are locked. The only time I ever had a chain jump off my Husqvarna was when a link or two locked. You need to check the entire chain. Take it off the bar and see if every link moves the way it should. John
.

Are you sure the bar gap is the right size for the chain? 050, 063?

Make sure the chain is the right pitch for the sprocket.

I have the same saw 450e running an 18 inch bar. it has NEVER oiled right and burns up bars. There is NO adjustment to give it more oil. Husky refused to allow it to be returned.

Thanks to all. The chain gauge, drive link width and everything else is fine. Tension is fine. I always flip the bar and lube the end sprocket every time I clean the saw.... which is regularly. Was only curious about the flatness factor.

Thanks.

Pete

Dang !

Maybe yard sell it and start out new again

f the sprocket is worn out, it will damage the teeth on the drive lines and that can make the chain " climb " out of the groove in the bar

I agree.

it very well could be a 1/16 is too much wear in the middle of the bar, a new bar and chain will tell you and having a spare is not a bad idea any way.

I wasn't having that issue but was seeing wear on my 2255 chain last year got a new bar and chain my bar had a slight bend from getting pinched that was a really cheap bar I bought for cutting in fence rows where I expected to find wire and never actually did , I had 6 years of cutting on that chain a lot of wood I kept it out of the dirt so I would go 3-4 tanks of gas without sharpening , just a lot of bucking rounds
when I did sharpen it was always with a file
you can get so much life out of the cutters that way the drive links are showing a bunch of wear

most people get 8-10 grindings out of a chain and it is done but filing you may see other wear the majority never see

have you ever tried thinner oil
not sure if they sell 10 weight oil down there but something to thin it out might get the flow up

Most bar oil I run styl in it summe grade didn't help. I just have a $400 door stop.

summer oil is typically thicker 30 weight the winter oil they probably don't even sell in MS is 10 weight.

it looks like oil pump parts are available

could sell it for parts or try and fix it

do you get any oil out ?

Very little oil shows when reved up even. I was living in west central Illinois when the wife bought it for me.