Miss Daisy wants a wildflower section in the yard, would be part of the lawn, not huge.
There's grasses and various green things in the "lawn", can I roundup the desired area and plant into the dead residue after a couple weeks wait?

Don't have a rototiller to make a proper seed bed and would probably struggle keeping ahead of the weed seed bank and new grasses.

So whataya think, Thanks.

you can mow off short, round-up and plant immediately upon the herbicide being dry - quite a few companies deal with some native flower/pollinator mixes

https://hamiltonnativeoutpost.com/shop/

Who I purchased my pollinator mixes from - also meet NRCS standards and specs........

yes, you can round up and then seed into the residue.
Not an optimum way to go about it.

Better is to spray with herbicide in mid may, again in July and again in Sept.
The first spray will kill most of the stuff thats up and growing, the next two will kill stuff that germinates and grows from the seed bank.
Then seed in late fall just before snow.
This will avoid preditation from birds.
Late fall seeding is best, many native plants need stratification to germinate.
If you plant them in the spring they will not germinate till the following spring.

Like all things in life the better the prep the better the result.
Before picking a seed mix look at amount of moisture in location, how much sun it gets and soil type.
Not all seed mixes are equal. Look for native plants for your area. Lots of the cheaper mixes are mostly non-native annuals that while they look good real fast they don't last. After a couple of years for the most part they are gone and you have a weed patch.
A good seed mix will be almost all perennials, a mix of about 40-50% grasses and the rest forbs. Somewhere around 35-50 different species of all native plants.

They will take 2 years typically before they start looking good and every year after that they get better. Some plants don't show up and boom for 5-7 years.
Again like everything else you get what you pay for, a good seed mix is expensive, $750-$1000/acre is not unreasonable.

If you mow it as short as possible hit it with weed killer and than drag it with and old bed spring or drive some nail thru a couple of old boards or anything that will loosen the soil just a little bit so you get better seed to soil contact it should sprout quickly If need be you can mow it if the weeds get out of hand Just do not mow off the new plants you want to grow .Also some of the native take more that one year to start to flower .So try to be sure it is something you do not want before removing it Good luck The native wildflowers really are a nice addition to add to any landscaping .

I should mention that after killing the existing stuff depending upon how much litter is left you may want to burn or rake it. Burning would be better.
Don't till. All it does is get the seed bed to germinate getting a nice flush of weeds.
If you seed in late fall/winter the freezing/thawing works the seeds into contact with the soil.
No need for anything else.

Another advantage of fall/winter seeding is its better for forb germination, spring seeding is better for grass germination.
One thing that often happens is some of the grasses will dominate resulting in a mostly grass planting even tho there was forbs in the seed mix.

I have found on my farm I don't have to plan much. When conditions are right the plants will grow naturally. I have several acres with 2 types of milk weed, yellow wing stem black eye Susan's and and add and..

I have done nothing but mow the farm off in stages and left it alone. The naturall plants pop up.


Now that's for wild flowers. Last year I did plant 1/2 acre of sun flowers and I also stager plant buckwheat during the Darth.

I would be happy if my entire place was set up for pollinators. But with 96 acres it's a work in progress.

I did the wildflower deal for my wife. Seed is expensive and we got 1 good year and that was it.

Typically they suggest waiting 3 days to plant after round up. Don't know if that stays the same for no-till. If it were me I would select my planting date and then time the round up for 4-5 days before the planting so you will kill more of the vegetation that has emerged. There is no systmic action for round up, by that I mean it is a contact weed killer product and thus everything sprouting after usage will grow and if the seed package you are going to use is grass and deciduous then finding a friendly weed chemical after that will not be easy.

Bryce

I would put thought into what grasses you plant as many can grow very tall and very aggressively crowding any flowering Forbes if that is what is preferred for pollinators. Thought they are a part of most native prairies Big Blue stem and Indian grass easily grow 5-6' high. Also they seed into lawn areas and are difficult to control. Great for large Prairie restorations but they have been a regretable choice for smaller plots where one wants to maximize flowers for pollinators or just viewing. They are a welcome part of my 20 ac prairie but have been years to control(remove) from the 3/4 ac plot in front abutting our small lawn. Though some of the flowering plants also very tall that we keep to the borders they are much easier to control from the front and middle of the plot. Keep in mind that many of the plant you might be seeding require different amounts of time in contact with cold, moist ground before they will germinate so fall seeding has worked best for me. Most prairie species seeds also require high light exposure to warm soil to germinate best so as your prairie becomes established seeding is far less successful. Starting plants in nursery gardens and transplanting them the spring of their second season. One can dig up and dibble plant a few hundred bare root plants where you want them in a few hours each spring.

Check with the guy that does the Pollinator videos.