Hey all,

New to the forum. I have a few questions for those wolverine trappers using footholds aka white17, guloboy, otterman, and others.

When setting footholds for wolverines at cubby sets, or hanging bait sets, are you covering up your traps like you would for a canid? Or leaving them exposed like you can for cats?

I’m not wishing away our fall hunting season, but I’m itching for the snow to fly.

You don't have t hide them as well, as you would for canines. I use a cover over the pan to keep snow from getting under the pan. So just enough snow to hold cover in place.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm just trying to increase the variation in my sets this year. I had quite a few refusals last year and I'd like to try and decrease that if possible.

I cover all my trap with a single ply of paper towel and then minimum amount of snow to make it look seamless. If you have a trap smart wolverine around leave one trap exposed and he’ll get caught in the other trap that’s covered.

Paper towel - was taught a long time ago to use wax paper. Does not freeze so easily. Crumple up and then tear enough to work around the dog and under each jaw. Requires pic to demo and do not know how to post pic. But if works for you Ryan then can't argue with success.

One trap exposed and other not so for wolverine reminds me of smart wolves and fox. They working a bait station like that and going around your snares then reach in from the side of where they passing regular and drop snares. No visible sign of you and they often go into a snare after repeated refusals. You and many on forum have noticed this.

Here iin southeast, I first bed the trap as solid as possible. I use no pan cover at all, but do use moss or hemlock tips to blend the trap.
I have had poor luck with any conibear sets, (exactly one gulo), though I make those sets every year.
I have few refusals with footholds in hemlock cubbies, though.

I always cover mine but do so with as little snow as possible. It may also depend on where you are and the quality of your snow. Some like AK Viking or guys on the Kenai have to struggle with wet snow that makes everything more difficult. If you have cold, dry conditions it seems to work better.

I quit using actual cubbies long ago as they seemed to create a challenge for wolverine to find another entrance point than the one I intended. BUT......if you do use a cubby I am a firm believer in using a snare or two behind or beside the cubby. That will take advantage of their tendency to circle the cubby before committing.

If you have a smart one I would make a series of very similar sets along your line. Do not use any traps at a couple of them. ( if he is going to beat you anyway, you may as well boost his confidence). Once he experiences zero consequences at a couple of sets and gets paid with a good meal...........put traps at the next set. Often times they get bolder after a couple successful raids.

I also like to target the back foot.

Great info.

Can you describe how to target the back foot?

Sounds to me that you have one of those magical locations. Location is more than half the battle with wolverine.

For what it’s worth I like to set for wolverine with footholds. I’ve gotten a few in 330’s but the go to foothold trap is so effective and has no avoidance. The big bonus over the last three seasons is that the wolves have been getting hung up in the sets. No ideas as to why, but killing is killing.

Are you only going to use footholds? Should also be using coni ears and snares.

Mad_mike - what’s your foothold preference?
I’ve heard everything from MB750/650 to Bridger No. 5s.


Might try some snares, but that’s a new thing for me.
Do you have recommendations on a snare size? Loop size? Gear? Cable size?

Alder, I run the No BS K9 Extremes in my cubbies.

If you catch a wolverine in a foothold, guaranteed he’s gonna work on that trap/foot. I like the 650 for wolverines. No room for doing much damage to the foot.
I used 3/32nd, 1x19 cable for them. But they twist and roll in a snare so best to get them elevated
The archive or species specific forms will help.
Where will you be trapping? What kind of country?

Thanks fellas.

Yeah, the archive threads have been super helpful I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel (or thread). I just didn't see much for actual foothold sets on there (pics or how to set for a rear foot).

Just received some expand-a-pan pan triggers for 330's. Interested to try those this year on a few cubby sets.

marten- I'm in western alaska

What I concentrate on is getting them to stand up to reach the bait. I want them to stand but not climb. So get that bait just high enough that they can get their mouth on it and pull while standing. Set your traps so they will step in one or both while "pole dancing". Be sure the bait has some bone in it so that it will force them to work to pull it down. I usually hang mine from an old snare.

I think it is more productive to get their vision directed upwards at a hanging bait rather than at ground level in a cubby. I believe they are less likely to notice a trap if they are looking up.

Very good info. Wish I could give them a go. No such luck in MN.

We have major bird issues here, if they can see bait. In fact, it is common for them to follow me through the woods. I try to have bait piles above the tide line, partly to keep the birds busy. Of course it attracts other animals as well. I keep traps well away from the piles, though.

Here you go, Sir Ken...right to your point. Jack has the original.

Perfect example Sharon !!

This is what I prefer to see


Use a bait that they can't easily get loose


This is ideal IMO. Front and rear hooked up.



This is how I space the traps. Anchored in opposite directions so they can't cross & tangle