Hay guys gotta question about something that just cam to me. I don't shoot muzzleloaders yet but I watch a good bit about it and one thing that keeps coming up is how it's important to tamp your bullet down the same way Every time for accuracy and consistency. I Mena I guess it's not important in certain sphers of muzzle loading then others .Was just washing this guy who's apparently got this super custom wisbang muzzleloader he's gonna try and kill a deer with @ 1000yd. Not here to argue about the ethics or whatever ,but he was really harping on that. Now I'm my mind it matter because it kinda like seating a bullet in a case right ? Too much force it gets too deep , not enough it's too long , powder crushes , pressure differences ect.
So this lead me to think this... Would it not make things easier to have a little deal on the ram rod that would work like a stop ? Like maybe an adjustable brass collet or something that you can slide up and down the ram rod and when you find the right whatever you can lock it in and keep it there . Seem like it would make sense in that sphere or things but idk. Has that ever been done? Seems simple enough and once it's where you want it regardless of the force you put down tamping if it's a good lock it's going to stop where it's set regardless.

I have always just made a little mark on my ram rod as a reference for when the load is seated. You can usually feel it too.
For me, the most important thing to remember when loading is POWDER, PATCH, BALL - in that exact order.

How would you slide such a rod back into the thimble under the barrel? Seems like it would be a range rod only.

But there's also more variability in black powder than most realize if you're going for tiniest groups. Not just the granulation (F,FF,FFF) either. Probably have to reset the gizmo for each lot of powder bought. And then throw in the multiple other variables such as fouling, fouling hardness, bullet lube/patch, etc and you just might not see enough potential gain to make it worth the extra trouble.

There's a guy in Hungary, capandball channel on YouTube, who does the whole blackpowder target thing and has a few videos on the subject.

Seems like, I would want the ball/bullet seated firmly against the powder. Loading a ML for me is mostly by feel. I, suspect, I load pretty consistently based on my groups at the distances I plan to take game at. I'd hate to leave a 1/2 of space between the powder charge and bullet. Not sure it would cause damage, but I wouldn't want to try it.

But I've often wondered if some sort of torque wrench type gadget couldn't be devised that would slide over the end of a ram rod and be depressed until a set weight was reached.

Same thought, that would give you consistent compression.


I.just make impact sounds, 3 ugga uggas

Weighted spring with a catch on a two part rod would do it pretty well imo.
A widened part to hold the spring from going over the rod on both ends and have the two end if the rod that go inside of the spring look lien this on the ends

When the Spong is compressed to its proper poundage they will click together and catch and you know your there . Pull it out and a quick twist and it's free. Honestly there a better opinion for the connection,it's like a little slinging collet or collar deal . Really slick and easy.

Your overthinking it. Just start shooting. without even thinking about it you will consistently seat the ball or bullet the same. Mark your ramrod for when you forget to put powder in so you know why it didn't go bang. When you do that, and sooner or later you will, you can take off the nipple and get enough powder in to pop the ball out. You can get 4f priming powder into the touch hole on a flintlock. Those screws to attach to the ramrod called ball pullers work. sort of. Powder works best.

Watch him all the time ! And yeah I reckon it would be a range rod, that to since most people do hunt from stands I don't see how much of a pain it would be to just carry it separately or many on the side of the gun kind alike a quiver. I Mena if your walking around then yeah might not be the best but for the average sit still or stand hunter don't see seem like much of a problem .
I Mean honestly all it would be is just one of these , hair a bit beefier mabye a few set screws you'd use with Allen keys to really lock it in when you found your load


And I Mena yeah you'd probably have to re set per powder load but I mean that's what ? Every 50 shots or so mabye ? And it is common practice to check your load anytime you change something but when you find what works you keep it there right ?

Love his videos, especially when he's got an original one to shoot. I'm in awe of the designers of that era who built rifles one at a time to develop new techniques and designs.

Another good one is britishmuzzleloaders and his putting a period service rifle into use using period drills and kit. Brings better understanding just why Britian ruled half the world during that time.

Maybe consider packing the powder in a small brass cylinder. Compress the powder with a bullet pushed into the end of the cylinder, on top of the powder at a set amount of pressure. Might even be more efficient if you could install the cap in the base of the brass cylinder. With installation of a small, machined pin that is struck by the hammer you would get consistent ignition every time.


Moosetrot

Watch him as well and two or three other guys, there two guys who did a great on on black powder the whole history,how it was made ,what woods worked ect, loved it

This...

Shoot- learn to load Powder .patch / ball
Powder .sabot cup/ bullet etc
mark your ramrod with your knife

we mark empty and loaded on ram rods

remember dropping your rod down the barrel on a muzzle loader is the same as opening the action on a breech loader it is how you verify a gun is unloaded.

you might have more than 1 load marked on a muzzle loader a target 25yard load and a hunting load , but always empty which on a lot of the rods that come with the gun is flush with the muzzle

you want to load with a range rod and it is most important that your cleaning rod be at least 3-4 fingers longer than the barrel if that means you add a 4 inch extended cleaning jag when you clean away from home , then do that

I have seen too many barrels that are a mess in the first 2-3 inches and it is because the user only has the factory rod so they are not cleaning the breech end

if would be like if you only wiped the rim of your coffee mug with a rag never to the bottom , it would get mighty nasty , and in MZLDR world that mighty nasty is also corrosive.
you also get a decent feel for it , maybe not 1000 yard feel but clover leafing balls at 50 with irons

Yes ...A Longer Range rod is really Nice

The solution that was came up with wer brass pieces the powder goes in with the Buller pressed on top with a primer in the base.


I have huntes black powder for years Shot my longest deer kill with a smokeless muzzleloader at 302 yards

Get one and start shooting it and see what you think about them BEFORE worrying about technical nonsense that's not nessary.

To be sure it's seated I if the rod bounces it's seated . Pressure the same put my weight in the ram rod the same way.

Just make sure it's seated.

Do you like packing extra parts to get lost and get in the way? They have been using muzzleloaders over 500 years the details really are figured out by now. The rest is all to feell important and for click or likes.

1000 yards will be artillery but many Buffalo were killed with 45 70 sharps at long range. That loadwas only 70 grains of powder with heavy bullet on top. Not 150gr like they seem to think is needed to kill whitetail with now.

Keep it simple.

Very interesting I found this while reading it love when people are so inventive

Track of the Wolf makes (has made for them) the best ball puller I have found , they nailed the geometry.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/839/1

excellent tool to have around and it doubles as what I feel is also the best patch worm.

[Video]https://youtu.be/vLWxdEfB_ag?si=OXAUR3InofBYM5d_[/video]

I am not sure if you are trying to shoot a bottle cap at a thousand or just shooting a muzzleloader at basic ranges, but if it's the latter, don't over think it... ram the projectile firmly onto the powder charge so there is no gap. If the projectile is a hair tighter on the charge or hair looser on the charge with each shot, it will not change how your load shoots on the grand scope of things. We "general" muzzle loading shooters do not over think such things... Most of us ram-rod the projectile down the barrel followed by some loose handed tosses of the ramrod down the barrel until the rod bounces a couple times. The bounce usually tells the shooter that the projectile is seated firmly and properly. Also, as mentioned, making a little scratch mark on your ramrod for a reference, will tell you if you are seated properly on the charge every time. If your muzzle swallows up your reference mark, it means you forgot the powder charge. The KISS method is still the GOLD standard must of us should live by these days...

Glad to hear of your interest in our sport, hobby, lifestyle, and wish you the best in your endeavours!

Heck, the British were doing 1000 yards with their Enfields and Whitworths.

You nailed it Moose!