Anybody use these ? Want to use them on my conibears ..tired of the quick clips springs rust an they don't work anymore

Been using them for years, Buy the large sized ones. I used them today as a matter of fact. I use them on water traps and land traps. Have held several cougars with them and 3/32 cable. I made my last bunch with 1/8 inch cable, so far don't like it as much. Couple of things I don't like about them are, 1- cable is stiffer, 2- my trap tags don't fit that cable, so I don't have an extra brand on my set. 3/32 held up fine but does get kinked after a while, the tie off ends are reusable so 100 goes a long way. I don't use the washers that some come with, just a cable stop. loop on other end and your good to go.

Western Wildlife Services

Western Wildlife Services

I have em just always been wary of something causing the ferrule to pop out

Once you snug them up they only get tighter. never lost anything with them. On 10-12 feet of cable they are sure handy around here. coyotes I use earth anchors but I have caught coyotes in cat sets made with these, I just think coyotes chew more on the long cables.

Western Wildlife Services

Thanks for the info so you can use the large ones with3/32 cable ?

Yes

Western Wildlife Services

10-4 thanks for the reply gnahave to order some here try em

How do these work? Are they a swivel or an adjustable loop?

They are extension cables, I fasten my traps to the loop with a quick link, I run 10-12 feet of cable with the tie on the end.






Once wrapped around a tree it just gets tighter, you can remove easy to change locations.

Western Wildlife Services

They are only about 100 years old
Used to be called tree locks.

I had to quit using them for coon on snares and DPs. Those buggers have fingers on all four feet and are smarter than me.

That’s exactly what I’m going to make. If you don’t have a quick link handy, you could just run the lock through the loop around an eye loop or whatever.

You had coons taking them off an run off with the setup an the trap then ? I take it more than once too huh ..well thats something to keep in mind

Yep.

I added a washer behind the stop which seems to help on that part. Nowadays I use sleep ez hooks on everything

Washer, and go around twice.

I whipped up a couple dozen last night. I’ll use these for open water beaver clipping the swivel on the arm and working it into the ring. Half of them have the washers. For bigger stuff like wolf I’ll make a different style over summer.

What are those swivels you have there don't think I've ever seen those almost looks like a snap swivel

Easy snare tie off and removal unless animal caught then wire cutters are needed.

Jim Gibb posted this on facelook. Mactrap in Quebec. I can’t find them on their website, my wife had to….its all french. Jim said it’s easiest to just call Marc

The snare shop has them they are called swivel clips ($18 a dozen)

Yes LT. G. a simple clean loop on the end works very well on snares and extension cable's.

Do y'all just insist on doing things the hard way up there?

You have to remember that some of us don't have a tree where we need one and regulations may dictate a swivel. If you fix a loop to a fence here you better plan on 20 minutes of fixing the wire when you make a catch.. An end that will fit a stake/anchor, post drag or a tree at the opposite of the snare end is a little more versatile (and doesn't have to be cut after a catch). In some areas (most where I set) a big loop end kind of eliminates a stake with a nut/washer top as a rotating swivel when you use a kill spring and you depend on a coyote hitting the snare full bore in either direction a time or two. 1 stake type for foot trap or snare with a std. nut and washer size has worked for this old guy for years. A fixed length for a snare extension (I use 2 - 5' and a 10') is a little more production oriented with a 0.19 wire swivel (used to be 0.16) and then a loop big enough to slip the separate snare (with its hardware through) works the best for me. Just another look........................ the (tree searching) mike

Thats the easy practical way,
Lots of trappers get trapped buying un necessary junk,lol.

all you had to do was run the end of the cable through the loop...no need to overly complicate it with whatever kind of hitch that is.

I very seldom set snares, but when I do I either tie off like bctomcat shows, or even simpler, just run the cable through the loop without the half hitch. With an extension the extension is often reusable, especially without the half hitch. I have never personally had a snare that was reusable after a catch though, regardless of anchoring method. So needing to cut a snare is a nonissue.

That is used often to be able to get a frozen catch thru so you dont need cutters.
Youll never get a catch thru a small loop.

IF you run snares, you should always have cutters.

What for?
I dont,and I snare just about everything for the last 50 years or so.

Around here, we need to be able to turn loose critters out of snares occasionally. You cant do a proper job of that with anything shy of cable cutters unless its a possum.

Not everybody traps "around here"

This is by far the quickest most efficient way to tie off lethal snares on snarepoles,at jackpots and at snarefences or any other gangset application.
I always make up a bundle at home and have them handy on the bike or skidoo A couple twists and you got two tie off/snare supports ready to add snares,Perfect when setting new or re-inforcing idled setups.When a catch is made a couple twists and its free.Then add a new one and re set if a snarepole or just pick up the land fur.

I have used tree locks on all my snares, I guess because that's what I bought years ago and when I replace the cable I keep putting them back on. I think just putting a loop at the anchor end of the snare might be faster at the set up. I might try a few of these next season.

Use a sleep ez hook (carabineers with a screw lock), fastest way to go.