I think I’d go this route, at least through the wall.

https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...6wt/p-1444453717845-c-6894.htm?exp=false


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Ya gonna sleep better doing it right

There's "right", and "good enough".

If you have the money to do it to code great, if you need to do it cheap, then figure out what's safe with what you got. My house is an example, balloon framed with 2x4's and 2x4s for rafters, is it to code? no..but the house is over a hundred years old and still standing....

a 2x2 foot tin wall will never transmit enough heat to burn anything, and with a homemade double wall through wall "thimble", its extra insurance... I'm not telling anyone how to do anything, only what has worked for me, YMMV.

I think you'll be ok doing as you describe. My trapline cabin is similar but the pipe goes straight up through the roof with just a metal roof jack. It is single wall pipe with about 10 inches clearance to combustibles. Been like that since 1985 and used a lot at 65 below.
What I don't like is the two elbows in your set up. I would replace the outside elbow with a Tee......Cap off the end of the Tee but still so you can remove it to clean out that area. Creosote may collect there.

Come to think of it, I did use a capped T, instead of an elbow, for just that reason White, I forgot about that....makes it easier to brush out the vertical pipe too.

You bet !

The piece where you go thru a wall is called a "thimble." I made my own using a 12" section of dbl wall held inside a 2x4 frame with brackets screwed to the 2x4s and to the pipe. The pipe was spaced off the wood frame the specified distance (2" I think). The black pipe from the stove ran inside the dbl wall and outside to a Tee. There was about a 1/2" gap between the outside of the black pipe and the inner wall of the dbl wall and I filled the gap with stove gasket. The outside of the frame had tin cut to the shape of the frame with a hole for the dbl wall. That minimized the size of the tin and associated heat loss. Outside was a Tee where it turned to go up. I poked a small hole in the closed end of the Tee to let creosote out.

Don't think I would cut corners on the small amount of pipe you need.

You'll never know if you put to much protection on your wall!

Yep that is the way I'm going. A 6 through an 8.

Now that would work, thanks.

Thank White> I'm going up and through the roof not out the wall. After contemplating on how I want to do it I have decided after today.

You bet!

They have an adapter for the transition from regular pipe to double wall. I used the adapter for inside transition. On the outside I just put female end of tee inside the double wall to go up (on our river shack). I would use screws to secure the cap on bottom of tee outside. If it falls off it can cause a whole host of problems.

https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...ase/p-1444453727027-c-6894.htm?exp=false

You could also run a piece of tin behind chimney up the outside wall to protect wall from chimney fire. Or use double wall pipe until your above roof line.

I have found the black pipe takes a beating when exposed outside, especially at the joints. Might need to inspect them regularly. The double wall stainless seems to last forever outside.

I always ran a straight pipe to avoid creosote build up issues, the straight pipe was more self cleaning. There was times you could hear the pieces falling into the stove when it got rolling. Always ran the thicker pipe (heavy gauge) thickness no fire dept was going to make it in there in the winter months.

Be sure you have a CO detector in the cabin particularly in really cold weather.

When you have the fire dampened way down for the night, the single wall pipe (especially if it is several feet long) will allow the exhaust to cool so much that it will collapse back down the pipe and leak back into the room.

I have experienced this firsthand, I fixed the problem by switching to double wall pipe.

I should mention that the single wall pipe I was using was exposed to the outside air for about 16 feet. It exited out the wall and extended outside, up the gable wall end to above the roof line.

I kind of have the hunch that this type of occurrence may be what led to the old stories about guys dying in their cabins due to the lack of oxygen. I'll bet it was actually CO poisoning.

Best cabin wood stove heater was a 30 gallon Barrel stove with a plate of steel on top of it allowing for a flat surface for the coffee pot. Pipe came straight out of the top in the back no elbow to plug up.

New ranges, wall ovens, etc is the same. I always burn them off for a few hours at maximum heat, just part of being a good contractor. I dont expect a homeowner to be aware of this, and it prevents a po'd client with a ruined dinner

The T will also prevent smelly condensation water from running down pipe and entering the pipe coming inside to the stove. I actually have a small drain hole in bottom cap. A #9 wire going in the hole down to the ground to direct water. Ice needs to be knocked off this wire from time to time.

A guy young rancher knew I was building a shack and wondered if I needed an insulated section on 6 inch. Boy my ear pinned back and said yes!!!

Now here is my question with just one stick. Should I center this one link of pipe through the tin and add single wall below and above insulated link??? I will need more pipe on top.

I used single above and below the doubled thimble, between the length of the thimble and the T the pipe was far enough away from the exterior wall.