I'm the process of building a line shack and have a question when going through wall with chimney. I do know they are harder to draft and all that.

I'm only using 6 foot studs but I would so much easier to just go through wall. I would do all the clearance thing from wall but what I was wondering if I leave a 2 foot x 2 foot square and just have tin and run pipe through the center of the tin out through the wall. I would use just stove pipe no triple or double wall just single wall would I be okey??

I only burn it in winter and when very cold if I'm in the area for the day.

I would think so.

No comprende

might have trouble with draff are you running it out and up over the top of the roof?? or just out the side wall??

Yeah I would too. It is a tough question to answer because there is always that chance. There is an old cabin that still stands on my place that had just a square piece of tin on roof and pipe went up through it. I don't believe the square piece of tin on roof was even 16 inch square. Old day there was double triple wall only single I think any way.

Thanks I am hoping someone here is doing this way now.

Out and up above and 16 inch rise to peak. I'll go 2 feet or better above peak. I was wondering if the 2x2 foot piece of tin would be enough of an insulator and wouldn't get to hot.

Must be some formula on safe distance recommendations for basic stove pipes, cabins have had stoves long before insulated pipe was around. Check into heat resistant sealers also they use it on wood boilers also.

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yep
I think he needs single wall or double wall up to a conbustable (sp) area ...then wood stove pipe though the roof with a 2-3 inch gap away from anything that can burn

Yep I have one like that in a small cabin. I was looking at different options for this stove though.

True I will look to see if I can find any info on single wall clearances. Thanks Law.

going through the wall,,,,,

Black pipe up
elbow
adapter plate
stainless stove pipe though wall
trim ring
stainless stove pipe elbow with clean out
trim ring
support bracket
stainless stove pipe to draft point
pipe rings and fasteners

code....

Thanks. It looks like 18 inch clearance when using single wall pipe through side wall.

I recommend going strait up if you can for a few reasons . When I was 19 and poor I rented a small clap board house and it was expensive to heat with all electric. So I got a wood burner put it in the kitchen in front of a windo on one of the cheap pads they sold to put under wood burners at the time.

I cut a piece of tin the size of the window opening and made a hole in it for the pipe. I ran single wall black pipe only out the window made a 90 and went up a few feet above the roof. I used pipe strapping from the out side wall around the pipe to keep it vertical. I put a piece of glass from a table top behind the stove for a heat shield and wrapped more tin with a 2" air space under it at the roof line where the pipe was about 6" from it. It worked great heated the house, electric bill dropped from 400 a month to 65.

Things I learned. Out side the pipe cools and got cloged up about every month and I had to take the pipe apart to clean it out. Instead of a 90 a T would have made it easier and faster to take apart and clean. The pipe cooled by the time it was at the roof line and unless the we was a chimney fire I had no worries about the heat there. The cheap pipe will rust.

It was very simple and convenient to just run it out the window but running it up keeps more of the heat in the building longer and the pipe puts off heat into the room. There are no bends/ 90s to get cloged up and crap falls back into the stove..

To me it's a question of efficiency vs convenience.

By code when you hit and go through a surface that will burn they require double wall or triple wall with fire breaks at each floor. Each stove if newer should also list distance to keep clear.

When I was a kid I did what I thought would work and be safe as cheap and easy as possible never once giving a thought to codes. It worked great. When I redid the roof and remodeled my old house now my rental I did everything beyond code it working fine but have piece of mind.

Look at your stove for the clearance requirements to the wall. There will be two different diagrams. One for parallel to the wall and one for square off the corner. That is where you start. Once you have the stove positioned measure the distance from the wall to the pipe. If it's less than 18" you need double wall. If it's more single wall will work just fine. There are sketches easily accessible on the Internet that will have a picture so you can better understand how it needs to be done. Get as much vertical pipe off the stove before you turn horizontal. There are requirements set for wall protrusions that also are easily found on the Internet. Google is your friend. I have never installed stove pipe out the wall, always vertical. Go vertical if you can. If you can't, be diligent about keeping the pipe clean/ inspections. A new stove will burn much cleaner than an old one, meaning less stove pipe maintenance. My brand new stove I burned all winter. Checked it once halfway through season and again after done burning, it is immaculate.

Providence Farm and 2bit thanks for your help. Very informative and thank You. I did look at data on web and if I'm reading it right 18 inches through the roof from combustible using single wall stove pipe.

I think I will try it the stove will burn for 10 to 12 hours at the most at any given time and most times for about 6 hours. This stove will be used about 3 or 5 times a month just in winter time.

I did almost exactly like you are asking. Took a section of 8" galv pipe and flattened it and cut a 6" hole in the center, screwed it around the hole I cut in the wall. I put a peice of 6" through the hole, as the stove only used 4" pipe I centered the 4" in the 6" to make a homemade double wall section through the metal "wall", and then ran the regular pipe with an elbow up over the roof line with solid braces to hold the pipe up, even put a pipe cap on it. worked great.

With a new stove and pipe it will smoke and stink up the place. It's always years between me geting another one in different locations so I forget but always think dang u should have fired this thing once outside first to burn off the stuff that stinks up the house. Just something I always think about after the fact. Thought it may be something that may be of interest to you.

Great!! I can do the same thing with an 8inch and 6 inside that. I can't imagine with minus temps with exposed tin with hole in it will cause an problems. Like I said there are many of old cabins that did single wall through the roof with a lot less clearance then what I'm doing.

Thanks and of course I do research questions I have but still very informative if you can ask that same question to folks like you. People thatt been there done that and can add to real life problems and cons and pros. \

Thank you all very much.

Double wall insulated pipe is as much about protection from chimney fire as it is about clearance. If you keep it clean and do your 8” to 6” deal I would think you’d be fine. They make short pieces of double wall too. Menards sells 12” and 18” lengths if you just wanna use it where you go through the wall.

I was taught that where you go through a wall, roof whatever use double wall for that section. It's cheap insurance and doesn't matter what they did back then. Why skimp on something like that?