Gang , has anyone had experience using these kinds of bodygrip pans?
I bought them last year at the Illinois trappers convention,,, I liked the idea because of the lower pan than the others on the market…
They are stiff ,, you really have to put a lot of pressure on them to fire,,, all kinds of critters could do a Fred Astaire and not fire it.
Any tips on how to make it easier to fire? I thought I would ask first to see if anyone has had experience with them and figured out a system, before I started tinkering with them and ruining them.

Post a pic of how they connect to the jaw.

I have expand-a-pans on some belisle 220s and duke 160s and they're extremely sensitive.

Looks like you just have to file and tune like any other bodygrip dog. That has a lot of travel before the dog is free from the jaw

They look nice. Anywhere available to get them online?

So I was taking to the maker at the WTA and he said on the narrower jawed traps like yours file the catch down till it sits just past the widest part of jaw wire/ bar.



Somewhere in there. He said file some then test, then file more if needed.

Not that I’m aware of,,, I don’t even remember the vendor I got them from,,,
Hopefully they will be available again at the Illinois convention later this month

Ty kind sir,,,, that’s where my mind was going,, but I wanted to be absolutely sure before I ruined it.

I have his card at home I'll post it later today

perhaps to small and light for the spring tension I welded a # 2 montgomery pan to the dog on a 155 for the same type setup easily tripped but a lot of fiddling around Way to heavy for a 110

again can you take a pic of how it attaches to the trap?

You might try waxing the trap. Mine are

This is a picture of it unset,, the pan attached to the opposite jaw

( note … the dog on the left plays no part in the operation of the pan)

Where are you putting pressure on the trap? Looks like if it's not right on the outside part of the trap,physics dictates that the pan cant depress if it's on the front half of the pan.

The pressure is on the outside…that’s why this particular pan setup would probably be most ideal in a cubby/box/bucket situation.
I would think you would have less refusals do to the lower pan as compared to one of the coni pans that you have to feed the trigger wires through to attach

What's the pan made of and how rigid is it? Kinda looks like plastic?

The top part is rigid plastic…

Sorry it took so long, got busy and spaced it out.

Every body grip I have has a dog that when trap is set......dog engages the striker bar via the notches in the dog.....just barely. The dog then nests inside the trigger wire clip....coming to rest directly on the clip. Rotation of the clip when animal moves trigger wires then pries the dog up far enough to lose it's grip on the bar and trap fires.

I would think that a pan trigger would have to have the same dog and notch arrangement such that when an animal steps on the pan, the rotation down pries the dog off the bar and the trap fires. The pan just replaces the wires.

How does this pan differ? Does it not have a notch in the clip? When the pan is pressed down, does it not pry the dog up to fire?

With this pan you do not use the dog or trigger from the original manufacturer. The pan clips on one jaw and has its own catch for the other jaw. Ypu can remove the original trigger and dog or just flip them up out of the way, depending what you have planned for the trap later


Here is a better picture of the mounting hardware

So have you tried something like a Sullivan's trap tester to see how many pounds it takes to fire it?

One thing I notice about the EXCELLENT triiggers on the BMI body grips.....the dogs are only half as thick as any other body grip I have. Very thin piece of metal, meaning very low friction. That big block and friction may be the source of your problem.