Yes, If it froze it wasn't done right in the first place, another possibility is it is just saturated. Either way a leach field needs sized for your usage, ground conditions, buried below frost line, and backfilled with adequate gravel bed with fabric to mitigate sediment infiltration. Jbyrds looks good except the straw, we use fabric that wont break down over time. Even done correctly they can still fail occasionally and need redone.

Dang i'll send my guy up there. I bet he'd do that for 1/3. I had anew distribution box put in at my tank outlet. They ran 75 feet of solid pipe around my house.. Put in 2 50 ft lateral lines in my front yard Covered resowed the grass. Gone for 3,000 !

The way it was explained to me is that little trickle of water freezes. Then the next trickle freezes on top of last trickle until pipe is plugged.

Once tank is full, the amount that goes in, is the amount that goes out. If a trickle goes in, a trickle goes out. If you pull the plug on the bathtub, you’ve got a tub full of water going out.

I would put a heat cable or forced air heat in the first clean out. Then insulate it if you get it thawed.

AS stated, start at Dbox. New systems can freeze if not used before cold weather, old systems can freeze if saturated and failing. The other problem could be an improprly installed pipe with a low spot holding water. If you find such a spot, get a couple bags of charcoal, place above the spot, light it . cover it with some tin and anything else to keep the heat in. The ground underneath will slowly thaw. Might work overtop of the Dbox also.

Do I need a Pvc cover for the 7" hole in the Tank lid?

Everything that lets cold air in needs a cover imo. Well everything in general needs a cover.

Dang.....I know the feeling.

The straw was a bad idea…..
Use road fabric or weed fabric to keep the dirt out of the rock.
Straw seals up and won’t allow for evaporation…

That looks a little deep for much evaporation in my mind. The guy that did my house tank 20 years ago went way shallow with the drain pipe. I questioned him and he said that’s how they do it now, especially along the river like we are. He said this way you’ll lose as much through evaporation as you do saturation. Still had 3’ or so gravel under the pipe though.

When I was installing in ground septic systems the PA Sewage Code wanted 12" of 2B crushed stone in the drain field. The 4" perforated pipe would go on top of 6" of stone then 6" more was added. Trenches were 24" deep at the low end of the grade and how ever much deeper they had to be at the high end of the grade. We normally tried to lay them out over a level grade as best we could while still being over the perk holes. A minimum of 12" of topsoil over the stone was required.

A few years back we had a winter like this and many drain fields froze, the school in town even opened early and let people take showers. Thawing a drain field is not easy but I remember there were companies that would thaw them with a big electric blanket. It took awhile and was not cheap. Once thawed they were covered with straw till spring. I'm sure the frost is above and below the drain field, thats why the water trickling in froze, no way for it to seep in.

Jbyrds septic wouldnt always be below the front line here.

You guys that live in the banana belt just don't understand it.

You know when every ones field freeze up
The laundry matts are real busy doing all the weekly washes.
Another Alberta Clipper blowing some cold air down to the Banana belt

330 the lid doesn’t have a cover? That’s 90% of your problem. Heat generated from bacteria working is going out the top. That heat even not a lot should keep the pipes moving if it stayed in the system. That’s the biggest issue. Cap every thing
You do know cold air falls. So it’s going in the open caps as well

But I do know septics…….
I can not tell from the pictures,,,,, but it looks like he is in dirty ground…… sealing the top is not good…

Vinke not sealing the top? What issues does that cause worst than not toilet until spring?

Septic systems are not required to be below the frost line here in PA.

Code or not we always bury anything that can freeze below frost line to avoid problems like the OP & others have had. It also lets you drive over stuff without worrying about crushing.

My pipe is about 18”deep 6 in gravel under it. They put chairs under it as they covered. Then about 8 inches of gravel then dirt. If your ground is freezing that deep you need to move! If your putting in lines above frost line then deal with the frozen lines. You wouldn’t wrap or not close up your crawl space in winter would you? A person knows pipes will freeze. Close up any vents that allows the cold direct contact with the water.

The frost line for building in PA is 36" below grade. You'd never get an in-ground system passed here if you put it that deep or deeper.