wish I would of known you were looking for a puller. I have one you could of had.
They don't work very good in my area as my soil has lots of clay and is a heavy loam.
Its very hard to pull a bush/tree once the roots get in there. You tend to break the plant off at the ground level.
Sandy or a more loose soil would work fine I'll bet.

Thanks. Yes, it works fantastic in my soil, Dirty. Awesome tool!

Pullers are useless in my area - all clay and rock. I prefer to cut stump treat them even where the puller will work as it doesn't disturb the soil. First thing to come up in disturbed soil here are more invasives like stiltgrass, privet, multiflora rose. All the stuff that needs more light that the honeysuckle was blocking. They still come up even with a stump treatment, but tends to be more manageable.

Once deer season winds down I'll be hitting woody invasives and opening up woods by cutting out beech, maple and sweetgum. I probably have a couple thousand sweetgum pole timber to drop.

Anthony, what do you use as a cut stump treatment for honeysuckle?

don't know about Anthony but I use Glyphosate, Honeysuckle is very sensitive to it.

Anthony, what do you do with all the stuff you thin out? I ask cause I'm thinning too. I have been cutting, treating the stump and leaving the rest lay of the smaller stuff (say about 3" at the stump).
The bigger stuff I'll use an occasional one for lumber, some for firewood (Sugar Maple and Ironwood only) and the most get killed by drilling and filling with herbicide then left standing. Standing dead stuff is good.

Don't know how much stuff your eliminating but If I had to say I'd bet I'm killing about 2/3-3/4 of the stuff I have. That would be lots to haul or drop and then try to walk around in for the next 2-4 years.
Altho the tops of trees do make good deer/turkey no-go zones for the rare and abused flora.

I use the same thing for all cut stumps - 50% triclopyr 3, 40% water, 10% imazapyr. It will kill anything with bark and I don't have to worry about things that are not as sensitive to triclopyr or imazapyr or glyphosate. I use it on cut stumps only and I almost never do hack and squirt as dead standing trees here in KY all end up on the ground quick with the wind and storms we get. If its already dead and standing I leave it though. Most of the stuff I cut is too small to timber so it gets cut up for firewood. the tops are used to shelter native shrub plantings so I don't have to cage every single one. Looking at getting a portable sawmill as there is a bunch of big red cedar I'm going to cut and quite a few larger tulip poplar. I also hinge cut where I need a wall or create a brush corridor. After a few years the native shrubs are usually doing well enough the hinge cut trees can be terminated and used for firewood. Its a lot of work, but only 40 acres so not too bad. Of that 40 only about 20 is wooded, rest is in old field management.

I'd trade you any day; our invasive Himalayan broadleaf blackberry on the west coast for your invasive honeysuckle.

When I was a kid there was a lot of small parcels of pasture land in lowland western Washington; seems like everyone back then had a cow or a steer or two. All that pasture land is now being or has already been overtaken by invasive blackberry vines, creating an impenetrable monoculture of thorny vines eight to ten feet tall.

Honeysuckle is bad, but multifloral rose is a nightmare

waggler - Himalayan blackberry is bad news from what I have read about it. Luckily it is not a big problem in the east.

I wish they made a simple ready to use herbicide for cut stump honeysuckle like the Pathfinder II RTU I use for buckthorn

Fire.....[/quote]
Well said, sir.

It is 14' tall in our woods. It can be a workout for the skid steer to pull out then weeds come in.

Fire is too risky around here. They would get away on people.