There has been a lot of talk about using chains and rods for drowners lately. I understand the use of chains, as they are basically the same as everything else: stake at top and put weight or stake on the other end in deep water.

What I don't understand is how to use drowning rods correctly.

Here's what I know: the rod is staked at the top, and an appropriate lock is attached to the trap. There also needs to be something at the other end of the rod to keep the lock from sliding off of the rod.

What I don't understand: what keeps the animal from pivoting the rod around the stake at the top and making it back to dry land?

Josh

The deep end of the rod is pushed into the bottom and most of the time will stay in place. There are times however when the animal will dislodge the end out of the mud if it isnt solid material. Then the animal will often be waiting alive on bank.

I've seen a bunch of cool ones here on T'man, and I'm wanting to try them as well.

Some folks put a "spade" type end on the bottom to help keep it anchored.

Some folks put two stakes on the top end to keep it from rotating.

Just some ideas!

I understand putting 2 stakes at the top, but I don't understand sticking the deep end in the mud. Do you need to bend it 90 degrees so it will go into the bottom? If it is just a straight rod, and the bottom is sloping downward (as it will if the water is getting deeper), there is nothing to stick the other end into. This rough sketch kinda shows what I mean:



Josh

Well then, you shove the end in the mud FIRST, the rod because of lenght and diameter wii bend slightly to the shape of your bank......and yes, 2 holes and 2 T-bars or a U shaped stake (What? you haven't seen that?) will keep the 8 ft. rod from rotating.....in fact, set this way( with 2 stakes) it can hang free in open water without spinning back onto the bank and the beaver will drown.

No, victoria, I haven't seen that. That's why I'm asking. Using 2 stakes is the only way that makes any sense to me. I guess if the slope was gradual I could see angling the rod to get the deep end to stick in the mud, but I can't see that working in any of the areas I trap. I guess I'd better stick to cable and chain and continue to mess around with filling bags for weight.

Josh

This is the way I do it.

Excellent diagram KYBOY !

I use the same system. In the event the structure is not friendly for the set up as pictured I would use the same lock and a weighted chain drowner.

Thanks! I also use the chain where I cant use the rod.

So basically, you make the rods really long so they reach to where the bottom flattens out.

Thanks for taking the time to draw that sketch KYBOY, that helps a lot. I guess the reason I'm having such a hard time with this system is that I don't have any areas (at least that I can think of) that fit the situation. I usually have to deal with gradual slopes that would require a very, very long rod to reach a flat bottom. I was hoping to eliminate the need for drowning weight by using this system, but it looks like I will have to just try a few and see.

Josh

Another thing Josh....it doesn't neccessarily have to be perpendicular to the bank. My cable drowners almost never are...

I hear you Daniel. My drowners are never perpendicular either, they're always angled downstream. Thanks for the replies.

Josh

I can't see why rods are used in the first place. They are to heavy and would be very hard to carry to remote sets.

might I add the price of these rods is also on the rise!

Here is a set up that I use. I build/make all of my own rods and cables. This works really good for me because I deal with steep banks that get deep really quick! It's safe to say this will not work for everyone in every sutuation. Keep in mind my drowner rods are only 6-8 feet long. I can get away with this because of the immediate deep water. What I do is use cement blocks (avg. 40+lbs) as drowner weights. Pass the cable loop through the block and atach to the drowner rod or cable. Then I slide the block down the steep bank into the water securing the top of the rod/cable with a single 24" "T" stake. Knock on wood, I've never had this fail on me! I also use this same setup in certain other situations. It's pretty easy to sum up whether or not it's appropriate

Here's one end and a heavy duty homemade lock.

Try the rod system and you will see why it is used. It is very seldom I have a Beaver waiting on the bank and can drown Beaver only several feet off of busy County roads. As for the rods being heavy they are considerably lighter then a MN Beaver. In some remote situations I leave the rod in the woods and use it every spring.

2poor is right, faster for me to throw a rod in place than untangling chain, hauling weights around, and replacing wire or cables if you go that route. cheaper in the long run. i thought last year i would never change till i tried them. fast to make too

I use the same stup basically as Ky. boy. It kept a trap thief from stealing a trap yesterday. We use a 32 in stake in high profile areas. He grabbed the trap and bent the rod, but could not pull the stake or the rod from the water. It saved a 25 buck trap.

Yep, no beaver waiting on the bank.

Wow! Great info guys! Nice job KY Boy on the drawing too! I mostly used the long chain setup when I was trapping beaver because after all it worked well, was fast to set up and I'm not as big and tough as you guys to be carrying around a sack of dirt or rocks anyway....I never lost a beaver by footing or toeing it in over 20 years of trapping beaver. If I were going to do it all over again...I'd use the rods at least some of the time. The long chain setup has limitations, no doubt! The long rods may be a lot to carry at 1st but you can leave them on location year after year. They're also good to hide 'coons in Colbert sets!