Hey,Fisherman,her is a link for your fox traps.With this one, you will never have to cut your wire again.
Hope this will help.

Oh,i forgot.I made them out of 4" nails or galvanized #9 wire.

Thanks for the photo paysho, it is always good to see how others do it.

That's going on all of the few cable stakes I use. Great idea.

Bill

Thanks.The only down side:it's not trap thief.

This is something I started doing this year, what do you guys think? It allows me to cut the snare cable when I want to pull the trap, it is super quick to pull a trap.




Any suggestions or opinions? Guys from the lower 48 are suggesting a j hook at the trap swivel, but this is faster for me to pull a trap.

Question from Top Jimmy
OK, I need some input and opinions on setting up some new MB-750's. Got a half dozen of the Wolfers for Christmas and need to get them ready for either Wolf or Wolverine. How many swivels do you add to the set up they provide, and how much chain to you like to add, and how? Do you use quick links so you can add or subtract chain? And if you add swivels, what types? Do you get more of the heavy duty kind they put on it, or can you use the MB Crunch Proof Swivels?

Response from Martentrapper
op Jimmy, you should have a swivel at the trap, and at least one more maybe 10 or so in. from the trap. More than that and the animal may wrap the chain around something anyway and defeat the swivel.
I like to put about 6 ft. of chain on a trap. At the end of the chain, link on a large ring or make a loop in the chain. This allows you to either loop around a tree/willow or to a drag. I don't set for wolf much, you might want more chain if your going to set for wolf and use a drag.
mt

Response from Piperniner
I order 10 feet of chain with second swivel at five feet. This is what Tim says most trappers order. I think their swivels are as good as any and quick links are good for attaching or adding. With the flat rate boxes, you can order chain and swivels already welded for about the same cost as messing with local. I just had an order from Minn. Trap that saved me over 20.00 bucks compared to the parcel post rate.

Well, my most valuable trap of the season (5 pinches) may be on the retirement road. The base/cross piece on this #9 is bent beyond repair or at least is too weak. I've got the trap to working condition but there is a chance with the right tug/jerk the springs could pop loose. I've never had the reason to take one apart before...looks like it might be tricky with the jaws. Before I dig into this I was going to ask if it would just be better to save for a wall mount or can a guy get him back on the trail for cheap. I assume I'd have to buy new jaws?

question asked by trailblazersteve
Ok,I have done the archive thing and pm'd a few people.Even been on some snaring websites.I want to start making my own snares for fox and lynx only.Looks like the mini bmi locks are a favorite but WHAT SIZE CABLE SHOULD I USE??I'm guessing that I'm going to get alot of different answer's so lets here it.

Response Fishermann222
have always used 7x7 3/32, but Piper sent me some real small cable and it looks GREAT, what size is that Piper? WHen I start snaring again i am going to switch to it.

Response Alaskan
1x19 something1/16th is the size I prefer. I'm using 1x19 now, but its a bit slow (in my opinion). I like the softness of the 7x7 1/16th. Its not as strong, but haven't lost a fox yet. However, I get them to tangle up. In the ones that haven't gotten tangled, I've managed to have either 3/32nd 7x7 or 1x19 1/16th, so it was plenty strong, but SEVERELY messed up.

Response MArtentrapper
If you want to use just one size of cable, go with 1/16th, 1x19. It will handle both species fine. If you load the snare it wil close as fast as any other type of cable.
That is the size I use for my lynx snares. Only problem is if you get a snow fall, your lynx snare set can become a wolverine snare set and you definately don't want to catch a wolverine in 1/16th.
I would be leery of using snares for fox if your only checking once a week. They may die in the snare and spoil on the ground, or get chewed on by shrews. Lynx are ther same way, but I haven't had as much trouble with them spoiling, tho shrews have chewed on several lynx I've caught in snares over the years.
mt

Response amtrapper
Well Steve , My $.02 worth , I'd try some 5/64ths 7x7 cable and a amberg snare , I've caught a boat load of coyotes ,fox , and a few bobcats in them and they work very well . And after trying some of the 1/19 cable in 1/16th. I really wasn't impressed that much , However I did get some good results with the 7x7 , 1/16th cable .
But then give it a try , maybe your luck will be better ?
Best Wishes , amtrapper

Response Family trapper
Steve when info wasn't as easy to get my brother made his own snares. 70's and 80's Caught probably 100 coyotes per year in snares and a 100 in traps. I say this to give some credibilty to the use. All he used was 7 by 7 1/16. His theory was he would loose a few to the size on coyotes but made up for it in the ability to hide the snare and also did a better job of catching appendages . I followed suit although never achieving the numbers he did for sure.
He liked the limber 7 by 7 as it will fall to a lot smaller size diameter with ease.
It is what I use for fox when I want them. For lynx you might step up to the 5/64s as they aren't as cagey. But they are stealthly. With the long legs however they don't seem to slip through a loop like a bobcat can.


I am with MT however. Lynx on the ground is vole food.
No more sets than you would probably put out you might try some tip ups. I have not tried this on lynx but based on how easy the marten tipups are going up I think a guy could easily get a lynx tip up as well. Dusty might be able to help you out on that one. When the marten line gets out I am going to play with this a bit just to see a lynx haning by his neck out of vole reach

BMI mini locs would be the way I would go.
A hint Rally Hess gave me on the mini locks that has really seemed to make difference in the way they close is to close them up a bit more than the way they come. They close a lot easier and it doesn't seem to make a difference on the locking ability. I am using them on the marten snares I am using and I really see a difference on the closing after doing this..
My 2 cents.

Reponse otterman
well we finally got internet back up I have always been leary of the 1/16 cable but have nothing to base it on as I have never used it. I prefer the 5/64 7X7 and use it for everything but wolf snares. I have tried many differnet types of locks and will say the camlocks are fast but over rated for the price IMO I dont much like the Ambergs it is the one lock that I have seen more then just a occassional refusal ( I can hear some of you now use 1/16 and no refusals) and I just didnt feel like they killed all that much faster as I did see an occassional mellon head with them. I do like the BMI minis they are a pretty neat little lock and I have caught alot of fox with them.

response trapperjoeAK
For the small stuff, you do not need to crimp to #9. I use #11 with 1/16 1x19 and the bmi mini locks on fox and coyote with no difficulties. I only use the #9 for wolf and otter. But I don't crimp direct anymore anyway. I do the whole twist thing. Ambergs/camlocks freeze up to much for me. Tried them a few years back. #11 is SOOOO much nicer to work with then #9...

Response Gary Benson
just got some 7x7 1/16 and it's way too limber to make a 12" loop. 1x19 1/16" makes a nice 12" loop. 5/64 in 7x7 makes a decent loop. Loading the snare definitely makes a difference.

response Martentrapper
Steve, did you see the threads I did on ODD about making snares? Here's a link to the ODD trapping forum:
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35
My threads are on page 2 i think. Shows how I make fox snares, and I do it the same way for lynx. I use 3/64th for fox and 1/16th for lynx.
If you don't want to load the snare, then 7x7 might do better as far as closing speed. I would venture to say a loaded 1/16th, 1x19 is as fast or faster than unloaded 7x7. Loaded snares don't "fall", they spring.
Cats are a whole different ball game than fox. They are alot more susceptable to snares. Easy to fence, rare to shy away from the cable, and they die quickly. I have had small lynx slip thru a snare. Loop size and height will mostly prevent that.
mt

reply by traperjoeAK
No I mean snares like this Akcajun. Still just drop them in the trail. I did the double ferrule thing for a bit, but this is better imo. Built in swivel, and the snare always hangs good.

posted by family Trapper

Here is what my 5/64s cable looks like after loading. I prefer to load after they are made. This way I am sure I am getting the load in line with the way the snare is haning if I was off in my catch bend.
I use either the round end of a screwdriver in a vise or a nail sticking out of something. When loading you are trying to are changing the shape of the first 1/4 of the snare. What happens is it acts like a spring when the snare is being pulled. As it gets pulled it springs loads the snare and when the catch moves it moves fast. Not a lot of pull needed. It also changes the angle the catch has to travel allowing it to travel farther faster with ease. The shape it gives is a secondary benifit in my opinion.
I grasp the lock end in my left hand. 1/4 way down the snare in my right. Drag the snare with your left hand rather hard over the nail or vised screwdriver with the cable being bent about 3/4 the way around the nail. A couple of strokes and your done. Or over done if not carefull. Your cable will start to twist when you have too much. Load the first bit of your snare harder than the rest.
Go slow at first until you get the feel for what pressure is needed. It takes more on than you think on the first part of the cable and less on the end. Heavely loading the first part of the snare works better for me.


Here is a marten snare 1/16 loaded. Very fast little bugger.
osted by

I like the idea of the white dipped snares. Maybe the 1/8th wolverine snares I might try. Prefered dip anyone.

Reply from Takotna
Ft, I dipped some 6-7yr ago, they blended nice till I went for the first check, the wind had blown the snow off the willows and you could see them from a distance with wolf tracks that circled the hole set wide. Glad I just tried enough for that set and won't do it again.

Reply from TrapperjoeAK
also tried white snares for fox/coyote with similar results as Takotna. As far as dips though, Formula 1 is my favorite. It works nice on snares. It works into the cable, and doesn't effect anything. I just used it to dye all my anchor cables for my otter traps though and a few otter snares. Used the brown and like how it looked. Awesome color if there is no snow anyways.
3
reply martentrapper
I've caught fox on white dipped snares. They do stand out in some places. I thought about just dipping the bottom third of the snare in white. That should help the bottom of the loop blend in with snow. Have to set them on pure snow tho. Not on mottled snowy tundra.
I had an Ogorman video that showed him painting snares, green and brown. I wondered about using white and brown to break up the outline of the snare.
mt

reply from nooksack
MT, I use flat white, and flat black, but just a few spots on the cable. This gives the snare the shadowy look light filtering through the trees makes. I will get a picture up tonight when I get back from work.
Takotna,
As long as you go easy on the white they still look good when the chinook blows through. Plenty of cable is unpainted, so you have grey, white, and black.
Here is a painted snare. I paint them half dozen at a time, rolled up.

Question by Rueben
what type of swivels do you all use on your big traps?

I am thinking of going with the MB crunchproof and welding the
j-hooks

Answer from Hupurest
those are the ones I run on everything but my wolf traps.
I use the big wolf swivels on those.

Posted by piperniner

Fairbanks fur tannery - 452-6047. Bob Green trapping supply-376-5873. Mn. Trap - 320-599-4176.

Posted by Family Trapper
Lets talk trap coverage?
I don't have much experience with big traps and what they can come up through.
The guy who owns the #5 said to cover in wax paper and cover with a quarter inch of snow. So I did.
But we all know what disturbed snow can be like.
The snow was too crystaled to get a continuous cake to lay over the trap.
It was also too icy to try the ASA sift from 6 feet. Just hard snow to do anything that you would think would work well.
I pretty much had to sprinke and flatten the smallest amount I could and still cover the trap.
Hoping for the best. I did crumble up the wax paper as much as I could to cut down on crinkle noise.
Hoping for the best. I am goingt to experiment with my #4's and wax paper to see what they can come up through.
With my cats I just leave a bare trap with a tissue covering.