Do you own any cagetraps? Not to sound smart but here's how it works:

Animals steps on a pan or plate which is directly attached to something that holds the door open or up. Picture that thing being pushed or pulled in a way that causes the door to fall or close.

Picture the way the pan moves when stepped on then think of what direction the item holding the door up must move in order to release the door. Visualize in your mind the connecting hardware and which way would be the shortest to connect both the pan and the device which holds the door open.

I wish I had some pics but if you google "box trap desighns" and it will show you plans on how to make a rabbit box trap. Apply this to the dimensions which you have planned and go for it. I bet you'll think of a better way before you're done building the trap. Good luck!

I posted the instructions for a simple very effective trigger mechanism a few posts back on this thread, what's wrong with them?

~ADC~

fram of no fram cage, is about like a cadillac and a GEO. around here I couldn't give a no fram cage away. Sure I would love to build a no fram cage all day but there are people who still want quality. John

do you think it would work for cats if I built a cage trap with plywood top, bottom, sides with a wire door that opens on one end and wire fastened to the othert end. I would use ADC's trigger setup

Personally, I don't think the full frames are necessary and just add to the weight and cost. I've got Safeguard traps that don't have a full frame, and they are rock solid. The only framing is on the front, the back, and one near where the door hinges. No longitudinal framing. But, they use a wire mesh that is extremely stiff and solidly welded.

Buck. The combs I make are the same way. Framed in the front middle and back. To me thats a must for our big coon we have. Beleave me, I know all about the weight and cost. I once tried that, just a square pice of wire, back put on with J hooks, door and pan bolted on. there still setting here. some day I'll learn how to do them right. LOL

Cagemaker, got any pictures of yours? I've got some of Kaspars, and they are full frames. Heavy suckers, but will probably last until long after I'm gone. I've got some out for cats right now.

Has anyone else noticed that once a skunk sprays or "dribbles" some of that juice in a cage, that particular cage seems to produce a little more than the unscented ones? That's why I don't mind if they let out a "warning shot" prior to being dispatched.

Buck give me until after supper. I'll post some that.

Seems here when a skunk hits the cage I just get skunks only.

Is this going into the archives?
It should as it has many different cages and ideas on how to use them.
GREAT THREAD.

Good topic.

Buck.......Cagemaker cage are HD,,,,,but not to "heavy" to carry long distances with out to much effort.... I carried 2 18x15?..ers in a Looooooooonnnnngggg ways the other day (at least 2 miles???) but I'm a manly man....

I currently have 9 out "trying" to catch cats....

Went in Blind so.... it will take time to get on them.....

The only animal I would be concern about damaging johns traps is a bear...

I think Cagemaker fell asleep after supper before he could post the pictures.

moring Buck... buddy of mine stoped over after supper. stayed late. Had a few calls foe the bigger cage, and I just ran out. 6:00 and I'm heading to shop, will check in latter.

What's the furthest west you come John?

I've seen him in Montana and with this years western being in Wyoming. I would think he will be there, but economics will tell.

can someone show a clos set of pics of the triggering mechanism. Also show how to set the live traps so i can have a better view on how to make them.

Fezz go thru the thread your answer is there .....in several variations depicted

livetrap, I'll be coming to the western NTA in WY. this summer. was in MT last year and I thought you were coming.