Let's hear some ideas for what you guys think would be the way to build the ultimate cage trap, and why.

What are you looking for? Weight, door style, locking mechanism, frame, size, folding or non-folding, stacking or non-stacking, etc.?

DON'T ASK ME....

Buck, this is all theoretical as I have not put anything to paper much less to the prototype stage.
First the pan, flush with the cage floor to defeat the reach over coons and keep it from getting tugged on and bent. Hinged in such a way that the drop is more of a straight down rather than pivoting from one end. To protect this pan from prying paws it is mounted below the cage floor wire with the floor wire overlapping 1/2" all the way around. That combined with minimal drop (+/-1/8") would keep prying paws out.
Next, operating rods should be completely contained. Not inside the trap to be bent or outside to be damaged in transport or fired from the outside. Possibly run underneath since the pan design will require some sort of false floor. On the door I haven't got any firm ideas but here's what I think. The guillotine has it's place but limits the traps use in certain tight spots (think ADC work) and provides a target for some animals to play with (raccoons) as well as increasing the traps visual signature. The slanting door does not have those issues but most designs leave half of the door hanging out the front of the trap when set. Many of these traps can be fired from the outside by bumping the door. The door needs to be completely contained within the frame of the trap to prevent this and to also allow be use in a postive set. While were at it make the foward frame three sided, sides and top so that the addition of a panel on the front could make a nose cone for ADC work for burrowing animals and without the panel lessens the amount of wire the animal has to walk on. Make the door the exact height of the trap so that it is vertical when closed to stop the wedging effect an animal can put on a slanted door. This also should stop alot of raw noses on certain species that push on doors. This would also eliminate the need for a seperate spring loaded bar to hold the bottom down. A simple mechanical lock at or near the bottom should suffice to hold the door closed. It would also facilitate the roll over release once the door was unlocked. The lock should be able to be unlocked from the outside of the trap frame and foward of the door to keep fingers clear of the catch. Here a simple spring loaded bar on each side at the bottom of the frame should suffice. I can see a release something like this, roll the trap onto it's top with the front lower than the rear, this puts the locks up for easy access, reach down with both hands and push the foward end of the lock bars and the door falls open. The only downside that immediately comes to mind is that the door would be gravity only and would not function properly if the trap was positioned anywhere less than horizontal. Somehow, someway I would like to combine the spring assist closing of the slant doors and retain the rollover release. Maybe a seperate setable spring for the door? The trigger mechanism would need some work, maybe a bar underneath that trips another bar that runs vertical alongside the door to hold it open? While were talking ideals this mechanism should be adaptable to operating two door walk through model that can function either as a two or one door.
As for contruction it should be GAW or even GAW (of sufficient guage, slighty heavier than the current safeguards) and powdercoated (our choice tan, brown, grey, black, white or combination thereof) for longevity. While I am not a big fan of the 1/4" rod framed traps due to weight I want a definite reinforcing frame of some sort and not just wire clipped together, those clips get loose and fall off and skunks and dillers have been known pull the wire inward. I also want something other than a 1/4" rod frame with wire wrapped around it as I've seen coon bull their way through and rip the wire off of the frame. Maybe GAW put up in panels of say 1/8" flat stock(possible use of angle for the corners) and then the panels welded to create the cage? This would also give added strength for stacking cages and equipment in storage or protect them from falls (coons tossing them off roofs, techs dropping them from ladders). As you can see this will not be a collapsible or folding cage. I have yet to find one durable enough, but if this design can be made to fold and be durable so be it. For the ADC man this design could be made in a series that takes into acount storage. For instance a coon size that can hold 18 squirrel size two rows three wide and three high (squirrel 4"x4"x18" to fit inside a 14"x14"x36" coon or eight 6"x6"x18" skunk). Okay, those sizes will need some adjusting but you get the idea that nesting traps should be considered in the design. It could even be something like what Yancy did with his cat traps, three or four similar size traps nested for the cat market.
Just some ideas that I thought I would toss out there.

While we're at it a hinged door in the top rear of the trap with positive locking for bait placement, maybe even the option of a removable bait cage to slide into the door opening.

Another wild hair, an optional add on flagging system that pops up when the door is down to make checking from a distance possible.

An instructor in robotics at Rose-Hulman University near Terre Haute Indiana built the one I most admire.
It was based on a Havahart 1079 single door trap.
Under the trap he added a floor that contained a pressure plate. He removed the trigger system completely and replaced it with a soleniod that pulled a pin to release the door. At the back was a feeder like on a rabbit cage that would supply food to the animal and a place for a water supply in hot weather. The top was covered with a plastic top to provide shade from heat and protection from rain.
The thing I like best was the sensor box. On top was a small box with a micro processor that monitored the pressure plate.
He was targeting large raccoons and the plate was set for 5 pounds and 10 seconds. The Doctor believed that a large raccoon weighed over 5 pounds, and that raccoons would not stay in the trap to eat.
He programed the Brain Box to weigh every animal that came into the trap, and time how long they stayed. If the animal was too light a buzzer went off to scare it away. If the animal was heavy enough but stayed over 10 seconds it was a cat or dog and the buzzer went off. If it heavy enough and left and returned 3 times in a row it was a raccoon and the box sent a signal to release the door.
A second solenoid controled a lid that could close over the feeder if the buzzed didn't chase the critter away. The feeder would close for 10 minutes then reopen.
I was impressed. For ADC it had potential. Needed some work but still a cool idea.

I'd buy that trap in a second

When we say Ultimate....is this for a 'coon or a bobcat?
Big difference there!

The perfect trap to one is different for the other.

Design is not the problem. It is cost. The trap can be designed with multiple doors on each end if needed. Locks can be different than other traps. Doors can be on top or bottom. Trap can be made with a pan or wire trigger.Door force can be as much as the metal can withstand.

Cost in this economy prevents dreaming to a great degree. They can be built cheap enough just takes capital and the demand for the product to do the volume needed for the cost effectiveness.

Got to go

I want a mess of the barrel type traps the DNR uses to relocate bears. The could scale them down some for my local area LOL- but the design looks like it should last if you know what I mean.
I also like the wheels trailer set up- I hate carrying critters very far especially if they are alive and trying to tack a chunk out of my backside

The answer is...yes.

Would your ultimate cage trap be designed for both bobcats and coons, just coons, or just bobcats?

If the cage would be designed for just coons or just bobcats, how would you design each of them?

Simple Buck! It just has to be escape proof, made of something that would not break, bend, or rust. Folds down with the touch of a button from 18x15x36 to fit into your shirt pocket, weighs less than 1/2 lb., be invisable to thieves and animals, cost under $5 each and be readilly available through any trapping supply buisness. Not too much to ask.

~ADC~

You going into business Buck? If so I have some Ideas I could let you have for a fee like maybe $1000.00 what do you say.LOL

Why put out traps that cost $200.00 for some [Please excuse my language... I'm an idiot] to find and think he should take home?

Sixbits, no, just getting some ideas. There's a wide range of cage traps, and was just kinda curious what attributes people find most appealing in them, and what improvements they could make if they were to design their own.

Why thank you.

PM sent

ML

Furhvrstr- them are nice!

I know I cannot afford to by them- how bout I hire you to come work for me for a year (building cages) as well as tiny salary, you could live in my 2nd house and get a beef a year- I would shoe and pay vet fees on as many outside colts as you wanted to ride
LOL

Bobcat? I would want one that a cat doesn't actually have to enter to get caught. Inexpensive too.

Mine would be,,,,,,

As light as the "Yancy design

As strong as the Schroeder design

And as fast as the Kirk Dekalb design......

(did I miss anyone) ....lol

Why not make it out of plastic like the heavy duty shopping carts?
It would never rust and would be stronger than wire and rod.
ML

If a guy could make a live trap that was light weight, fairly inexpensive, caught only cats and when I got there the cat would be skinned, fleshed and drying on a wooden stretcher, now thats a live trap I would invest in!!