Over the past two years, I have purchased several dozen, used Victor #1-1/2 long spring traps to augment my muskrat trap inventory. I have made successful incidental catches of mink, otter and raccoon in this size trap; however, my dedicated water set trap choice for mink and raccoon is a #1-1/2 coil spring. I do not trap otter.

Two of those dozens, from separate sources around the country, had the chains moved from their traditional location at the end of the spring to the front of the trap frame.

I am curious as to the theory, reason and logic behind this trap modification on these long springs, and if anyone knows who advanced it, and about when. Does anyone know what the selective advantage was to rearrange this trap chain physics? Was the intent designed for the use of this trap for raccoons for some peculiar reason?

I put the chains back on the springs where they have always worked best for me.

Regards,

Jonathan

I'll be watching this, because I don't know the answer either. My grandpa probably had at least 200 #2s for coyotes, that was all he used. Some were attached to the frame, some were attached to the spring. He didn't seem to care one way or the other, and he put up big numbers.

The spring clevis can slide down the spring to the trap frame, and if the spring then swings against the frame it can jam the clevis and keep the swivel acton from operating. There will be potential twist-out and/or damage to the animals foot. Attachment to the bottom of the frame eliminates this (This info is from Charles Dobbin's book "adjustment of Leghold Traps").

Also...as Charlie Dobbin's pointed out in his writings...once the animal is captured in a single longspring trap that is set up FROM THE FACTORY it will be pulling AWAY from the spring. By moving the chain to the other side of the frame...it pulls toward the spring....which means the paw doesn't move as much...little or no damage to paw from sliding across the trap jaws. Better for the trapper..fewer empty sprung traps.

May want to consider moving the rest of your chains Jonathan...you won't be disappointed.

I was always told it was so they pulled toward the spring in the singles. I had all my 1s and 1-1/2 LS like that when i was younger.

For a #2 I am not sure as there are springs on both sides. I would guess is so that if the frame bends or flexes, it will do so in the direction that keeps the jaws in. Just a guess tho.

The responses thus far have been very enlightening to me. I have used this #1-1/2 long spring as a muskrat trap for 55 years, staked for drowning. The incidental catches of the more powerful otter and raccoon were securely held and subsequently drowned.

I have never used a long spring as a land trap. The more I think about this, perhaps this chain modification was devised with the intent for use of this sized and larger long spring staked on land, or even with drags, with raccoons, fox, cats and coyotes in mind - the size of the trap corresponding to the size of the target species.

Jonathan

i have all #1 single long spring chains mounted on the frame opposisite of the spring. I did this b/c of two connsecutive losses.

last season i was on this stretch of creek bend and i put in a pocket set w/ a #1 SLS and the next day i found my trap up on the bank(i staked it b/c the creek was only a 2-3" at the time-very shallow to drown). it was eather a coon or a large mink for the damage to the surounding willow saplings. there was some blood and hair on the jaws opposite the spring-DING DING-didnt think of it swithcing the chains yet and set it back-happened again the next morning. i changed the chain attachment point and put it back in place but never cought anything in that set but i got a mink in a 110 blind set down the creek a ways w/ some cuts on his foot

guess i do it b/c of a learning expeirnce LOL

I played around with some 1 1/2 long springs and moved some of them. My newer sleepy creeks, however perform better attatched to the springs. I set the traps off with a green stick about 3/4" diameter and performed a pull test. I could slip the stick out of most victors and blake and lamb traps attatched to the sqring quite easily. Moving to the opposite end of the trap frame, made it much harder to slip the stick out, (note: by simply attatching the chain on the spring side of the frame, I came up with the worst results). On the flip side, with #2 and #3 size traps, with double springs, (not for beaver) I had much rather attatch my chain to the end of the sqrings. Reason, well I watched a Jonny Thorpe video and it is what he suggested. Me being me, I went out and done some testing of my own. I found that he was right. It is easier for an animal to power out of a double sring trap that is center attatched to the frame than it is attatched to the end of the spring. It puts pressure on the foot, and could cause problems in the live market, but as Jonny puts it, "for every plus, there's a minus". One can power up the double long spring traps with helper springs and then attatching to the center of the fram would be more effective.IMHO

grab the jaws and try to pull them apart on the spring end then on the opposite side ....which side it tighter ??

I use my 1 1/2 LS for muskrat-mink only and I prefer the chain on the spring because it gets them in deeper water( makes trap and chain longer). IMO For mink muskrat and coon ,strength of the trap on either side of the jaws is not an issue. The quicker you can get them drowned the better. If you don't have deep enough water ,better use a stoploss.

A "thank you" to all respondents for sharing your light on this topic for me.

Jonathan