The lower lip goes under the clip. The top opening is nailed with a 16d nail. When I pull them if the nail rips through and stays in the tree the next year I just wire the bait up through the hole in the top of the jug and wrap it around the 16d nail.

Too many bears to leave cubbies out as a lot would get destroyed during the summer and sun rots the milk jugs so I pull them. Too many go-fasters after December so I don't leave traps out either. Clips stay year after year though some are still destroyed by bears. The bears are attracted by my call lure ( rotten hoolligan oil and glycerine).

That is pretty slick. I wonder if the trap would fit inside? You could just cut a spot out for the clip. I think leaving the cap on would make it easy to rebait. My plan is to drill a small hole in the cap for wiring the chunk of bait.

The trap will fit inside. I used to notch the jug for the spring. Just more work. If the trap hits the milk jug ( the spring does) it just forces the trap down towards the marten. Very weatherproof set. That is the key to catching marten here as we get lots of snow. You want that set working when Mr. marten shows up. Fast to put in and take out. Jugs are lite, but a little bulky, however they do fit into each other up to the handle.

Picked up the milk jug idea from the Hall of Fame trapper across the River. We used to compete for milk jugs at the local dump.

Dirt I like the idea of clear plastic. Maybe the bait would show up better. Have you any comparison in your area of black nursery to the milk jug?

I use white, clear, and yellow jugs. Never noticed any difference. I don't see this as a cure to your situation. Marten here refuse at times, but not that often that I consider it a problem. Refusals I just consider seed for next year. I used to have patterns of refusal in rabbit patches, but eventually they show up hungry and work the set. Always tended to be big males that owned the rabbit patches. This area has a low rabbit population and very few lynx. As far as I know it's always been this way for at least the last 100 years.

Well i picked up 6-1 gallon cans to try and set up with 110 coni's, i tried coffee cans before but had better luck with plywood boxes with 3/4" holes driled around the bait side of the box. for light and scent to go through. i have about 4 dzn 110 coni's to try this year. also picked up 280's for wolverine boxes. My little trap shack been busy lately... opening on the first of nov. but not for snowmachine for awhile.

If you use 110 for marten you will get some fur damage with single strikes behind the head.They will rub a hole in their hide where the jaw contacts the neck.120 mags will prevent this.

Hey Everyone,
Just want to say hello and introduce myself. I have been reading the posts lately as I am just getting started trapping and looking for any info i can find. Going to be targeting pine marten this winter here in SW Montana.
Does anyone have any pointers for a total rookie??

Brent

Marten Archives is the place to start.

What does everyone like as far as length goes for a marten cubby?? I've gather everything from 8-24 inches on here. just wondering if i should split that and go 16??

What works for me is a 10 inch box with 1 x 1 screen on one end.

RIGHT ON, With a pan trigger trap set about 4" in front of the bait at back of box.

Hey boco, you ever add a spring to them 110's to make them 120's...thinking bout ordering springs to make them 120's. Montana Brent, i prefer the 10" deep plywood coni-boxes. Except i use a 3/4" drill bit and drill holes around the bait side of the box, faster for me to seal the back and drill holes in it. Stronger also. IMO. BTW we didn't freeze over quite yet. Happy trapping!

yukontrapper, after all the expense and work is done, you would probably be further ahead to just buy 120's and keep the 110's for setting for mink or rats, or as a last resort on marten.

-TJ

Yukon- thats what i was considering over the mesh. I want to try them straight up on the side of the trees to keep snow from burying them. I also want to keep snow out of the box. We are expecting quite a snowpack again this winter here around Bozeman.

Also, i was told by the trapper supply folks here not to use anything less than a 120 for marten. Whats y'alls take on chicken pieces for bait?

I have boxes that are 12"-16", and I doubt it makes much difference. As for the back of the box, I've used wire mesh, and drilled holes of all sizes. What works best for me is to just cut a piece of plywood that is the same width as the box, but 1-1/2" shorter. Say the outside dimensions of your box is 8"X8", (just as an example).
The back of the box piece would then be 8"X6-1/2". center it on the back and this leaves 1/2" or so gap on the top and bottom.
This allows a bit of light, scent dispersal, easy bait attachment if you want to secure it, is strong, and fast to construct.
As for adding springs to 110's, I have done that to a couple doz., and it works fine. Remember to buy safety hooks for at least one side. However, I would recommend just buying 120's in the future.

Brent-110's are to weak to kill a marten quickly and the resulting struggle will often result in serious fur damage. The marten is a generalist feeding on a wide variety animals, birds and carrion when it is available. For bait I do not believe you can beat BEAVER but if you do not have that then the next best IMO is moose, elk or deer scraps.

110's work and they are easy to set and deal with when your out freezing your butt off. Don't waste your time and money to make 120's.

I prefer 110 for my sets. I used to trap around Livingston.
Something I used to always use was tainted suckers, fish of any kind but suckers were very oily. Taint and mix with glycerin as a call bait. Along with beaver, or scraps. My dad always used fish scraps from a market. He liked salt water fish.