I'm only 5'6 so I'm standing almost all the time, I've thought about throwing away the seat also but like to sit down for a few seconds now and thenl. Been going to cut a old windshield to put over the light so snow will go over instead of "lights out" when breaking snow at night, now if it gets to bad at night breaking trail I take the windshield off so I can give the snow a swipe off the light while driving.

If you need anyone to "take off your windshield" let me know, I seem to have developed a knack for it..

Pittu, I doubled my windshield along time ago and don't have that problem anymore, plus with the gap between them is great for putting gloves, wolf snares, snacks, pistol when "positioning" for a shot.

I would probably be ok with a Bravo if I was shorter and lighter, but I'm neither.

Those old Transports were good machines.

I think they had the 488 in them.

Even though alot of our riding is on river's/sloughs, it can get incredibly rough from drifting. Once it gets like this, I will stand and ride. It's easier on my back. In fact, tonight, when we head out, I'll be standing a lot because we've had 2 days of 20 mph winds.

440 but my kid put a 448 in mine and took the suspension/track off my RMK 550, shorter but a more aggressive track and works real nice.

Like I said with the Box riser and handle bar riser it isn't the same machine.
My long line was long for me. 60 miles as the crow flys to the far end from the village. Can't even guess how many miles I put on to get that far up setting marten traps. But it didn't take too long before I knew that I was cutting down the life of my knees if I didn't change things. Set to set not bad. 35 mile ride home sucked. The natural progression has been documented here for the most part. Up to this year it has been improved with a lot of foam in the seat.
But as as good as I have made them in the past years to accommodate the ride with more foam none of it compares to the bravo I am riding now in Homer. The Bravo-Ft It feels like sitting on a full sized machine. Except when you get stuck. Now it is still a bravo and with the limitation of a 250. And old so could break down at a moments notice. But I enjoy riding it now. Sitting with no bent knee and no wind in the face.
I am building boxes and seats for my bravos out west next.
It used to be I would not leave the village without my grain scoop for when I got stuck in my polaris. I have quit carrying it now on the bravo. Just don't need it anymore. Getting stuck is just not a big deal. It is a temp inconvenience. As opposed to an ordeal with my big machines.
The ease of mind that I enter sticky situations in terrain is where the bravo shines. I go places I would not consider with a large machine. But there are places that I can't get due to their limitations. And they are slow. The biggest factor for me to want something different on my long line.

Dirt
The snorkel is very movable. We have already rerouted now that the snow has settled. I maybe even make an outside port to plug into. The vacuum hose can go anywhere.



The material in front is rolled up and a wire wrapped around it for now to keep it out of the way. I think it is a keeper.

I know the wide skins make a huge difference in headlight snow. My son prior to installing his skins had stock skis. I was clean and he constantly stopped to clear. His skins now are wider than mine. One of the single best investments you can make to a stock machine. Wider skins. Garrity's are 8.5 inches wide. Fun Center in Fairbanks.
Trying to find them on line with no luck SnowPak Made in Canada.

Since the 277 tundras were mentioned, I have both an older and a newer model (the one thats headlights look like bug eyes) the newer one has a higher seat and better designed chassis and suspension. You can ride it sitting down more, and it is comfortable to sit on it, but it is still tippy. Today I never sat down all day, was breaking trail in over 3 feet of fresh snow, and it had turned to rain. The older Tundras I used to claim that the only reason they put a seat on them was to take a break on when you stopped, the only time you could ride them sitting down and not tip over was when you were on a plowed road.

Double post but wanted to keep info such as this in the bravo thread too.


Worked on the heat vent on the bravo.

The ribbed vacuum hose fit well and could easily be taken out.



I know what everyone is thinking here. But it is temporary. I wanted to see just how much air can be pushed through the hose at running speed. At idle in the garage it was impressive. I will be cutting it down a little at a time to see the effects. My experience has been you can pretty much feel the temp of the heated air and know if your restricting it too much or it is getting too hot.
The duct tape will be a good trial and then I can think of a permanent solution that can be opened and closed depending on the outside temp.



It routed nicely through the vent box area.
Lots of options here. I like venting it here as opposed to the cowling as you don't have to deal with it when you open it up. If you have to work on the carb etc it pulls right out of place. The ribs are holding it in place only.



Should be able to find a plumbing Elbow or T that will work for some directional changes.


Looks like a dandy place to dry the light gloves. Might even have to build a clothes line. ;0)


A smaller piece of pipe right now will be experimented with venting into my cloths etc for extra warmth. Will get it worked out so the girls will have heat where they need it.

Look like you can neck down that hose and run two smaller lines up to the bars for each side, jus zip tie to the bars, but make sure you can remove the two small ones to throw heat up on the windshield. I noticed the handle bars do not have the cross piece in the middle. Looks like it can bend/break when under pressure. IMO.
I do wish bravos had a bigger Gas tank, but not much room for one on them. Be cool with a 10 gallon tank. I'd better go find one and size it up. Plus have rear seat storage. Was thinking a short track indy lite tank and chair. Should be about the same wide as a bravo.

Yes they can. And even with a crossbar. I'd weld one in. And when it does break in the field here is a repair suggestion:

And if you break a tie rod or connector between the ski post and tie rods that is why GOD made alders.

Dirt- GOD made plenty of good stuff. Nice Cabin ya got there. Nice idea on Gods remedies to fix the oh shat moments.

Dirt...I think it is a great thing that you have ingenuity ! Because it looks like you need it !! I had to say that all in fun. How do you limp it in on a broken ski ?

Len....Glad you chose to vent that heat up and out for the Girls...nice you are trying to keep them comfortable ! Will your son be envious ?

Dirt...how far out is your cabin ?

I am anxious to hear how your long line goes with all those modifications you are making Len. Best of luck !!

I learned how to do all this from Corey Rossi, just kidding. Sorry some times I can't control myself.

Never broke a ski. I have bent them pretty good though. I did have a bolt above the leaf spring that holds the ski on fall out. I ran three separate strands of #9 wire through the holes and twisted the ends together. Got me home.

I have broke the handles off on every machine I trap with at the top of the steering column at least once, some more than once. If you don't have to break trail , a visegrip as a handle bar will get you home. If you have to break trail I have tied trapping wire to my ski tips and steered the machine like a pair reins. That is tough. Especially since you still have to run the throttle with one hand.

It is all easier than walking.

The cabins only thirty miles up river from my house.

Well we all break things...the knowledge of how to get out of trouble is the key to walking or not.

Breaking handle off wow..I have never done that yet but then, I am not breaking too many trails.

I am guessig Corey has had a few busted up machines . The reason I ask about ski's is I have bent them too...sure slows you down but like you said it beats walking.

When you break a ski, you can stand on the opposite floorboard and hang your weight as far of that side as possible to keep the weight off the broken ski. Doesn't work well when the trail isn't well broken though, and steering is really tough, you end up doing a lot of getting of and dragging the machine around corners turning in the direction of the broken ski.

That is exactly what I did with my bent one...I tried to strighten it but it was toast.

And even with the bent one it took me a long time getting back. Having powder did not help.

Waterrat. Sorry I missed your question about the plugs. I have not had a problem with plugs till this year. Both on that one night. I think it had something to do with moisture. Not sure. Do they just foul out and you can reuse them or are they toast? I really don't have any idea however what could be going wrong with them. My bravos have always been good on plugs.
It is funny but this steering wheel never had a cross bar. I have learned to be pretty ginger on them but know I need to get something on it. Would brazing be strong enough? All I have is a stick welder and it might not fair too well with that.

Mornin, if i remember right, my late gramps brazed a cross bar in place. How did the snow flaps work out while breaking trail in warmer temps? I am really thinkin about putting one on the bravo. I still haven't cut up the drum for a skid plate. I was think some of those Canvas Snaps should work fine so its removeable faster.