FT the older Bravos ( I'd say pre '93) didn't have the crossbar. Best luck I have with welding is to weld a solid bar across. It seemed to absorb heat better so I didn't burn too many holes in the thin handlebar tubing like happens when welding the stock tubing on the newer ones. On the picture of the broken handle bar I cut a log spike to length and welded it in.

My cross bar broke off at the welds due to a "bump" in the trail. I was planning to fix it with a piece of aluminum angle iron and a u-bolt at each side. From driving it without a brace the tube is now creased and cracking at the bottom bends so it's not one of those repairs you should put off, lol

Three of my late 80s Enticers have a "T" type handle bar that is much stronger than the "Y" type the earlier Enticers and all the Bravos have. The mounting plate is exactly the same however, so if you took the tac and speedo off the Enticer bars they should be able to be mounted on the Bravo. Not sure if the throttle and brake cables will match up. I'll post a pic of a spare set I have so you can take a look.

I am in the middle of what I have been calling my "FT" mod lol. Anyway here are some pics of the Enticer (Later 80s) steering post.



The post is 10" from top of bar to bottom of mounting tube then the bars flare up a ticky.

ha ha. Mod ON!

I think you guys should work for NASA.

I believe the Bravo would have won the race to the moon if it had a larger fuel tank.

I wonder how many of their employees started out with a Bravo?

Wanted to keep this on the bravo thread as well for those interested. Double post.
Looking to upgrade your old bravo to two tanks?
Secondary Tank setup.
Very spendy.
I think by removing the oil tank which is a good idea anyway on the older machines you could get a two gallone red jug in the glove compartment. Some venting and you would be set for under $15. Could even build a fiberglass wood tank. That is what is in my boat and it was built in 78 and still working. bet you could get 2.5 gallons. With the under the seat storage now I don't use the glove box much and am going to look at building a second tank set up for next year.

Len, What about using your compartment under your seat as a place to put a tank ?


As you mentioned making a fiberglass tank it could be made to use available space ? Just a thought.

Hey FT, do you have room for the Enticer tank in the pic between your seat and rear box? it is 14"x 15" x 11" high and holds 6.6 US gal, that might get you to the moon on a Bravo.


If not you could make a tank using the cap shown here. Looks like you could run the lines through the seat box like on the old Suzuki Nomad 292's. If it worked I would take the stock tank out all together, it would give you more room for working in the engine compartment and lighten up the front end for zipping over the overflows.....(may be zipping is not the right word.lol)

TS..that tank would work in a lot of applications.

I have a Pug that needs one just like it.

Had a rough day, but I have had worse.

Learned some things today:

1. There is a Bermuda Triangle for swallowing up idler wheels located on my trapline.
2. You can drive at least 7 miles without a right rear idler wheel if you have a cat track on it.
3. A Tundra 800 fourstroke is worthless in this country. Good machine if you like walking.
4. A rear idler on an early 90's model Phazer is pretty and fits a Bravo.
5. The rear idler will stay on if you shear the bolt off for at least 25 miles; maybe forever.

Dirt: If looks like it's coming lose again I'm sure you'll figure something out with a hunk of Poplar and some #9 wire.lol

Looking at your track, have you ever taken the track off a Bravo and turned it around to improve traction?

Are you serious? Were you around for my first fight with Hup and Alaskan when I brought this up last year?

Ha ha ha. I remember. For the record.
Straight out of the Bravo manual.

I missed that fight, who won? I have seen this done on a Yamaha XLV (same type of track) and the owner said it made climbing hills, ripping through slush and over all traction much better. I didn't ask him what the down side was. I have heard it is installed as FT shows in order to meet government stopping requirements from full speed to "0" in so many feet. Is there another reason?

It got the axe. Stopping appeared to be a problem. I think the reason that someone in the know said they were wedge shaped was for strength. My theory was the wedge shape compressed the snow during acceleration tending to push the snowmachine up. ( that is what started the fight) Another guy came in after I was a bloody pulp and said that was also the theory he believed behind softer paddles on paddle tracks as bending over they form wedges which on acceleration create a downward force.

Yeah, a lot of guys used to put their tracks on backward in the old days to increase traction out here. I never did.

Another successful extraction by Dr. Dirt DDS.

When removing the oil tank do I just plug lines or is there something else I need to do? What ratio are you guys running? Is 50:1 ok?

There is a barbed hose fitting coming out of the motor below the carb.... What is it?