scince pesky posted some of his stuff i thought i'd post one , i finally got a slow day and been doing some paperwork and puter stuff





i'll post a pic of the repair that i did after i hear how other would do it

Looks like squirrel damage . I would do a quick check for bats and if none was found , I would pack the full of wire then injected with foam and cover it with some flashing . If things are slow jump in your truck and jump the boarder and will make so video together . Got a clarkston hob at 9 am to get us started

Depending upon what animal that caused the damage being a squirrel or coon that would determine my method of repair. Some cases replacing the wood may be necessary, or a heavy wire 16 ga. GAW 1/2"x 1/2" placed over the area and attached at the proper points of fastening. Then a fitted piece of coil flashing attached over the wire for a finished look and to take away the inviting opening area.

I know how that makes you feel.I made a post indirectly bragging on Jamesons lure and now it's buried in purgatory. It's hard to give a good answer because the picture doesn't show enough. I would do what pecky and Bob said. I like Pesky adding the foam is a good idea. I don't want to sound like a foam mechanic...but one thing I have noticed that animals travel like fire thru or into a house. They follow air currents and the foam does shut off air currents, water, insects.
It closes it off so good that you have to be concious of that so that you don't cause something to hold moisture by blocking its escape or evaporation.
If I didn't put the flashing on and left the foam I would over fill in and take a fillet knife and trim it to match then paint it. If you protect the foam from uv rays it will last as long as the rest of the board.
I think it's cool that you know how to post pictures.

.....!!!

to check what type of critter it is, using the duck tape method will work, or a game camera. If bats are known to the structure, when in doubt, put a tube in. (bat valve), then, do a proper repair. Flashing work is a must. a metal break will do wonders to make repair look professional. In my opinion, foam should only be used when insulating, not on repair work. Its sloppy (quick fix) mentality that makes me want to put my fist through a wall because ( supposed professional wildlife companies) are ripping customers off.

I agree Bud

When making a repair, always take into consideration the water-flow, when placing coilstock or sheet metal to shingles, a bead of sealant on the underside as well as, another bead on the topside, outer edge.

90 degree angle drills are must! when the job is complete, doesnt anyone take pride in their work anymore?
(cram it full of screen, then inject it with foam)

Malco 4ft Mini Brake

Bud,
That was a sloppy braking of metal on that fix and it should be put back with wood very unprofessional looking. What did you charge for that whatever it was it was a rip off. It caused me to run my fist thru something soft. While I am at it I have been catching moles with out-a-sites for years that expensive stainless steel trigger mod. you have come up with is a rip off of your fellow professional. Your magazine is second class you should consider hiring an editor and maybe it will be successful.
I could post all of that stuff but I am not going to because it would be unprofessional and not very nice. I am just rying to make a point. It would also discourage other people from sharing their ideas which benefit us all. How about just posting your ideas and not insulting other people.
I give people different options and prices on jobs and sometimes tell them they need a contractor but I will exclude anything so the contractor can repair it with confidence that nothing is inside.
Pur foam is not something some unprofessional wildlife operator came up with. It is a professional product that stops water, insects,sound,radon,small animals and air. Air and insects is the biggest benefit it adds to an exclusion. Which is why if I am braking metal or cutting wood I usually foam behind it.
Unrelated one time a wildlife customer mentioned he had a couple dimples in his concrete basement wall leaking water. He had tried caulk, a concrete patch and was going to get an estimate from a warrantied waterproofing company. I told him I didn't know if it would work but I would like to foam the two dimples. I would not guarentee it but I would not charge him. It has been since you were in high school and it still hasn't leaked. I have worked for him since and he has gotten me other jobs. I don't advertise anymore because I can't stand anymore business than word of mouth gets me because I am professional and I do what I tell people I am going to do and it works.
Finally again I would like to ask you to put forward your ideas and let people share theirs without having someone hundreds or thousands of miles away insulting them.

Thanks Rick I'm hoping more people feel the same way and peer pressure might get it to stop. Topix.com is a good place to post insults not here or any professional forum.

I picked up a small 18" brake at Harber freight for 20 bucks and it works just fine ,also very small . Also got there 36" brake for 30 bucks for around the house . Looks good bud . I see some wire hanging out . Did you wrap it with wire before you added the medal . Or just in one spot or the whole thing

it was squirrels , after removing them i repaired the hole it was a short section on the roof intersection shown




customer was happy as these squirrels were holding up the sale of the home

Bam I'm good . Just kindling . That looks good to . I'm guessing they won't be getting by that fix

i have a couple of hand tools that make small repairs like this slick i'll post some pics , they save dragging out the brake on small repairs

great job I can see better with this pic.

Bud if you don't mind please explane how you figured out how to cut and bend the back splash and pie piece . Like did go up and measure it all first ,then go down and cut and bend . How did you figure the angle on the pie piece . Did you just scribe it from the back or take like a framing square and lay it on the lower roof to figure the pitch . Maybe will be inspired to do better so your pleased to see are progress . Thanks For sharing Bud

pesky i measure and cut and form on the ground as much as i can , i've found with most of the houses i deal with here 6 inch and 12 inch trim coil work the best for most of my applactions , i sometimes think to myself if i opperated like most of my compation here and just carried 1x1 wire mesh and screws and fender washers i'd get done faster and make more money per job , but i just can't bring myself to do stuff that way i feel i should make any repairs i do not noticable as much as possible