don that was me, i wasnt trying to prove you wrong, i was trying to prove you right, i just wanted to see the proper set up, and just exactly were the trap was hitting the coons

please dont stop sharing just because i asked for a picture, id like it if every post had a pic to explain what was goin on, and if i truly wanted to argue and not gain knowledge after seeing the pic i would have said it was photoshopped

charles;

How far inside lid is the conibear and what size opening do you cut into lid? Thanks for your help! And yours too, Don!

i have caught a pretty good amount of coon in 110's in mink sets and everyone has been stoen cold dead when i got there and someone these were 18 and 19lbs they did flop a good bit but with a tied trap to my box they didnt get far. on teh other hand i have had coons as small as 10 pounds live thru a 220 and bee waiting for me when i got there just a little bruised from teh trap jumping onto them behind the normal spot just my 2cents

all ive ever used is 220's but alot of states can't use them on land ive never heard of TO much with 120's mostly 160's and 220's

For those who keep saying 220s, you have to remember 1 thing. There are states that have a 5" max for bodygrips. They do not have a choice.
Look at the state(s) that can only use snares. Look at the state(s) that can only use cage traps. They do not have a choice and have to make the best of what they have. That is what this post started as. Making the best of 120 sized bodygrips to target coon.

Anybody ever longline with 120 boxes?

ttt

I have PMed with a few guys, but will share with this thread. I make my boxes out of 1x8 pine . The sides cut 14" long, the top should be 16". The over hang of 2" should be in the front. This over hang keeps the coons 4 feet on the ground as to eliminate leg catches. A 1x8 is actually 71/2 inches wide by 3/4 thick, so when you fasten the top to the sides put it on top instead of the sides screwed to the side of the top. This will give you a trap opening of 5" wide by 8" tall. Cut the spring slots in the sides so the trap when set is 1/2" down from the top. The trigger should be cut in half and bent to the outside half way up to the outside. It is important to set the trap with the trigger on the bottom. I have found for some reason coons prefer to push in and down with there chin versus pushing up with the area near their eyes. I find this also explains some leg catches. Also set the trap with the trigger closets to the back of the box. I would not relying on these boxes totaly, some coons dont respond to lure or bait or simply wont go in the box. I think 1/2 to 3/4 of your sets is reasonable. Again this is my way and it works. I have used the 120 and box long before they outlawed 220/160 in my state. Hope this helps. Mike

A lot of the older 110/120's are 5x5 (Northwoods).

I didnt realize that Bob, just always used victors.