Starting to get ready to catch a 1000 muskrats come fall . Making up some more colony traps and got to thinking why don't I have beaver size . Then I got to thinking I don't know anybudy that has beaver size. So I look up beaver colony traps and what I'm reading they work great on beaver but not otter . For otter you need power doors . Seems like that's a good thing . If your trapping beaver and your tag out on otter or there non target then just use the gravity doored colony trap . Has any buddy made beaver size and did you make them folding . Sounds like the guys out in WA have all kinds of ways

Never heard of no beaver colony traps. Always known them as live traps.

They must work because there not legal for reg fur trapping here in Michigan but there legal for ADC . It could be the way to go in areas where there's a chance of non target otter or trapping runs . I know I kill the muskrats by the truck load with colony traps . With the beaver size you would need a heavy gauge door . With muskrats we tried 8+8 and the rats would bend the wire out and get out . So we went 5" tall and 8" wide and that solved that problem . Don't need them tall but wide is good some times . Last year I made some with lead sinkers on the doors to make them close faster in faster running water . Also went 3' on that model . I always wondered why they didn't catch much in faster water till one day I was walking up and this rat took off down stream . The muskrat went right into the trap and bounced off the dead rats in the trap and back out before the door could close . It happened so fast it took a min for my brain to catch up with my eyes . Maybe adding lead to the doors of the beaver size would help catch more otter .

I have one I made at the beginning of the summer that shows very good promise.

I have another I am working on without the same copacity. Will try to show soon.Different design. Probably show while at the Tenn.fall get together.



Mine have powered doors.

I'm sure you do Kirk and im sure it will be tested and tested and tested and even have video of the animal testing it before it hits the hands of the pickup driving trapper . I'm also sure it will hold up to catch after catch with out brake downs . This is just my thought what this trap should have . The trap should work with or without the power doors . Multiy catch is good and if the otter can beat the doors that's good to . The trap should have smaller size wire . Why one might ask . Smaller wire means less weeds , algae , sticks ect get caught on the wire when set in creeks , I truly hate trying to get that stuff off my colony traps . My colony traps I make just for bottom edge creeks are longer but have 1/2x1" wire and one simple dip and there clean of all that stuff . the reg colony I make for setting rat runs have the 1"x2" wire and when I do set these in creeks it's crazy how hard it is to clean these traps of debri . I know no big deal but when your out running a 100 mile long trap line of hundreds of bottom edge colony traps set in creeks it is a big deal . Every time it rains you go oh no . Also you must set walking down stream so your not plugging up your traps . With the smaller sized wire the stuff just rolls off and the stuff that does get caught simply cleans off .

The most important thing I can say about Kirk Dekalb, his traps and design is that he is always his worst critic and always trying to make a trap better then the one he currently has on the market.

I admire Kirk's innovation and how he is changing modern live cage trapping today!

I have thought that a funnel might be a better way for beaver. No need for any weights or springs. The disadvantage would be in a current.

Any one have comments on use of funnels for beaver ?

I have know idea what a beaver funnel is but a got this butter fly feeling just reading them words so please explane .

X2

What we have, here in Wash. isn't a true colony trap. it is 12x12x48 the doors are angled in, when set they are held up by rods with a trip rod in the center( Vinke has posted pics of this trap). Beaver swims into trap hits trip rod and doors close, on the original no springs and no lock, This allows for additional beaver to push their way into the trap. When set in den entrances and lodge entrances they do push in. And you get multiple catches, this gives the impression of a colony trap for beaver, it isn't, it is a cage trap without doorlocks, BUT, The otter do beat the doors so a spring was added in the next generation trap because otter ARE LEGAL to catch in a colony trap or beaver cage trap or whatever type of trap you are using, if the county is open for them, that is.

Robb and Scott, I think the best thing is that besides Kirk, Jim Comstock and Gregg Smith are also working overtime to give us the best products they can. I would like to give a special thanks to these three individuals. They make all of us feel important!

You got a lot of merit.

do you have any pictures

Couldnt decide on comstock, dekalb, or tomahawk (think that is owned by Greg mentioned above) on my last order but ended up w/ tomahawk. Very well built w/ a coon proof pan so to speak. Real pleased so far.

Pesky-

Been trying to get a picture myself for quite a while. Was told the trap was 18 wide 12 tall and 48 long. Doors could either be 1/4 bar or 1/4 bar frame with wire. Doors swung in and rested on bottom. No spring.
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Picture would be nice.

I hope that is postive comment . My thought is just like rats a funnel allow them in without a moving door but finding the exit is difficult. They would have to be stout as I have seen how strong a trapped beaver can be. However just as with any drowner dispatch is fast. I have wanted to attempt a proto type, perhaps you Kirk De have a thought or....perhaps better experience with such a design.

Pesky...a funnel is just as you would think. A funnel leading into a cyclinder cage large enough for a critter to push into. Just like a minnow trap funneled in but not out.

If you need addition info feel free to pm or call me, I do think you have my number.

Yes the ones I use and make are 12x18x48 and 16x16x48 the doors open in and drop when the animal hits a rod in the middle of the trap the doors free fall and are made of 1/4 rod. I have had extra beavers push their way into the trap. I am going outside right now to take a picture hopefully I can get it posted.

Pesky...a funnel is just as you would think. A funnel leading into a cyclinder cage large enough for a critter to push into. Just like a minnow trap funneled in but not out.

If you need addition info feel free to pm or call me, I do think you have my number.[/quote] I got ya I've trapped many a minnow . Got a minnow trap on the truck right now . Ok I got ya like them muskrat traps that look like a minnow trap . Almost bought one last year at the convention maybe I'll get one at the convention this saturday . I know about a 100 culverts to try it on

awesome

Will post some pics tomorrow after work (graveyard). Have both traps spring dorrs and falling doors.

On Call

There have been several posts on the internet over the years of guys using funnels and being successful. I can,t find any right now.

ok people lets see some pics

this is the trap 12x12x48

picture of the spring from the top outside

picture of the door spring from the end of the trap

the trigger device in set position

the view a beaver has when he enters the set trap.

Here are your pictures you sent me to post.

Very nice . I'm glad I asked . The trigger system looks nice . I need to make me a couple . How many beaver will that hold at one time you think

On the 12x12 the builder said he has gotten 3 in one an adult and two yoy he said it was packed tight.

How long has this trap design been around for

The 12x18 size one is mine and I have had 3 adult beaver in that trap at one time they were all 50 pounds. The wire gets a little stretched but that's it.

sounds like a good idea

I want one of these.

I know very sweet trap . I'll have to ask the DNR if that trap would be legal for fur trapping . I know for ADC I'm good to go . It's not really a colony trap like the man said . I might even make a muskrat size one . If you did catch a turtle in that it could still catch beaver . I could see that trap really shine for them spring beaver in these feeder creeks . Fall I could see a problem with salmon . It also looks like the trap could be made to be folding . Wonder how much a trap like that would have been worth back in the mountain man days

X2

Don't know bout mountain man days but nowadays it is $120 ( that is for the one with spring loaded doors)

X2

I could make them for the 120$ but the states that really use them are so far away it makes the value of a "live catch" stronger cage more universal for me. So unless I got a lot of offers it is not going to happen. Shipping is a killer. If they cost more, most want a trap that is more universal.

Someone making them on the west coast or in Mass. would do the best with that exact design.

I already have a trap called an otter trap on my website that is about that price and will do more for about the same price. It does not sell as well as the other small beaver trap cause the other does so much more.

The picture provided by trapperguy22 was a good one also. That trap would have a better shot at two beaver. Both work under the same principal.

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What about the doors for making colony traps for beaver. Would bars be better or wire? Would the wire be best if longer or wider than 1x1?

What about the angle of the doors? Do the animals enter better steeper or more sloped? How much does length of the trap affect how the doors work?

Are there any pictures of the actual sets with beaver in them? Showing the sets and how it is used would be good.

Great concept that will have applications. Length, due to the outward internal door configuration is the thing to beat but may now have a solution. Whole thing should be very economical. We made some ridiculous stuff probably 15 years ago but never pursued it. Glad to see it is rolling. Should be very doable.

I just like them traps that catch more than just one animal . Animals run or swim in 2 or 3s . I'm not looking to sell traps . There's no way I could ever compeat with company's like tomahawk ect . My dad has one heck of a fab shop that setup for production . I don't mind helping out sometimes when he needs my help to get a big order out . I'm sure someday I'll take that over as I do already have a product that are family has made all mylife . Standing in a shop all day drives me nuts . I cant see that trap being a big money maker biulding and selling them . I can see it making money set in chanals . It's not a replacement for my 330 traps . Spring beaver migration and putting a trap like that out on a 3 day check could be a good thing . Them deep long runs in open water that trap looks good for that . Culvert trapping I can see that trap just loading up . It's hard to say what it will do . Just have to make one and see if I like it . I think I will put that on my need to do list . If that works maybe try one that folds up . Nice to see things like this and thanks for sharing. Your design .

I'll get Bernies contact info and put it on here monday.

Pnwmtnmn,
I received the below posted pictures from someone in Washington in 2006. I lost contact with the sender. I seem to remember that his name was Bernie, could have been you though. He was a member of this forum. Look familiar??

Looks like bernies traps but it wasn't me that posted those pics. That trap doesn't have springs on the doors, his original style.

Would these be baited, as well as placed in runs or tunnel entrances?

What would they be baited with, being underwater?

Dave

i don't think too many people are baiting,,,,,,, but we don't have much ice on the westside

runs,,,,bottom edge sets,,,,, den entrances

I've seen guys try to bait colony traps for muskrats under the ice but haven't seen it work yet . It would be nice and I'm all forit working

I will bait colony traps for muskrat on dry land.......

Never tried it that way or seen it tried that way

Bernies swamped and only getting a few out.

You should be able to bait them just like an under ice beaver set with a peeled stick above a foothold on an angled pole.
Does that make sense to anybody? I've got the pic in my head and have seen drawings if it.

Anyway just tie the stick to the trigger rod, beaver grabs the stick pulls the rod and doors come down.

I am going to try putting a tube on both sides of the trap so it floats have sumerged, and bait it with a green stick and a food lure or castor kinda like a floating 3330 set. I think it should work also i would think it would work baited with fish for otters, going to try that also.

Just saw this. Thought I would post a few pics of my traps.
10x10x48 power doors I made them for otter and beaver but especially for otter. If you want to miss otter they are not the thing. A few minor design changes for this year but basically the same trap I had good luck with last year.

1x2 wire 14 guage, never had a problem with it but my traps are always set under water so the beaver or otter doesn't last long. A must here IMO because we can go to a three day check with an underwater trap.


The door, I used 1x1 wire on the doors with 1/4" cold rolled rod frame


The trigger, This is a sweet trigger system, resistant to bouncing around but fires easily and quick. Catches rats fine.


A close up of the door hinges.


Here's what the animal sees

Now show them how many you made Bruce,,,,,, LOL,,,,,, I hope i did not create "the Monster"....

Dave they're not all swim throughs. New cat traps and civet traps too.

you are a gluten for them beaver,,,,,,, Good luck this year! and be safe my friend.........

Humptulips or Vinke: could you please show the trigger set up for the power door cages your building? I build a few cat cages and have been thinking about a power door like your using for coon and beaver. Thanks in advance.

Check my pics out. I believe he is using the same trigger system.

It seems to work best when the trap door has at least 4 " of clearance from the bottom of the door opening to the water level. In a northern state I believe you can get by with a lower or smaller door opening and peeled sticks for bait placed under water if a lower hieght trap.

The opening needs to be 12" wide or wider, I have found, to work best.

The shorter the trap, the better, also. But you, can get by with a longer trap as long as the opening is bigger, or a larger trap volume to seem less confined or enclosed to the animal.

I know of quite a few doing this now. Seems to be no different than a floating body grip set, just that he is alive waiting for you.

I believe this set would work well with live bank sets, having the floater anchored 10' or so away from the bank. Sure ought to keep the wagons circling.

Here's a picture I took today. Maybe not the best pic but if you put it together with the other pics I posted you might be able to figure it out.

A couple of guys from Tower and Soudan MN used funnel type colony traps for beaver in what now is the boundary waters. That was when you could haul stuff in with a snowmobile. I worked with one (Johnny Akins) and listened to his trapping and fishing adventures from the 50's and 60's.

The traps were made with heavy chicken wire, 1 inch mesh. They had a mink ranch and used the same wire for their pens, the wire was very good, I have a couple of the 40 year old cages and they are useable.

They hauled the mesh up on sleds and made the traps on the spot, using them in beaver runs through the ice. They were made just like large minnow traps, 14-16 inches in diameter and 4-5 feet long. I don't recall if they had a flapper door for the funnel. They caught the heck out of beaver in them and John said sometimes they had trouble pulling them out with a few beaver inside. The remains of some of these traps are still up at Trout lake north of Vermiliion , near beaver houses that have been in use off and on for decades or more.

How big was the funnell opening on the small end?

Or what do you recommend?

I think the openings in the funnels were only 9-10 inches and pointed towards the bottom of the trap, I guess the beaver would tend to work the uppermost part of each end trying to get out. They must have stuck some kind of stake through the cage to keep them from rolling it. I should have asked more questions, but I got the story 30+ years ago. If they could figure it out back then, we can now. I know the opening seems small but a swimming beaver is like more like a torpedo than a blob.

Thx got the jist of it. Much appreciated.

Do you know if they had an access door that they were taking them out?

They just had a square of the heavy chicken wire covering an opening in the bottom, wired shut. Pretty crude, but it worked for them.

By having a hard time pulling them out, I meant pulling the trap out of a hole chainsawed in the ice when there was two or more beaver in them.

I wish John and Herman Klun were still alive so I could stop in and pick their brains like when I was a kid. I'm not sure the method was legal as there was a limit on beaver back then and some of the old timers were "bootleg beaver" outlaws and had the dollar an inch hides flown out by ski plane to who knows where. 50-60 bucks per put up beaver was real money back then. Trappers made more money than anyone in town.

Thanks,

I worked on one today.

Doesn,t get good to try here for 6 weeks.

Cool, keep us posted!

Ttt

Another thread on the subject
https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads...._fo#Post4948903

you dont happen to have a picture of the finished trap do you ? And any pictures of the conibear trigger mechanisms ? Since photbucket went down we lost lot of those pictures

Here you go

Monster Toms- What are the dimensions on that?

12x12x48

Monster , have you played with this style trap any more?

Played with it? I use them most everyday!

Any catch pictures lol ? Ary you just using these for beaver abd otter or have you tried them for cats and such ?

Hope you dont mind all the questions lol.

Beaver only. Not allowed to pursue otter here. There are better designs for cats and other dry ground animals.

Have you set 3 or 4 traps in a row down the stream about 15 feet or more apart to test for refusals or go arounds on the traps with the doors already down?

In the experimenting I did where the trap was placed with the door down, and amount of current also made a big difference on refusals. The direction they were coming from in relation to the current. Current puts pressure on the closed door. It helps on one end and hurts on the other. I always ended up setting two traps or more on the main run when possible no matter whether the trap had a colony feature or not when I first set.

that's awesome! I have often wondered why more trappers don't try this. Other than the laws don't allow us. I have thought of building one very similar to that to play with on nuisance beavers. Our laws are a bit more lax on problem animals. But I bet if you piled them up like rats you need a crane to lift them out!

Most situations I deal with are 1-2 beaver plugging irrigation ditch's, dam shows up trap goes in beaver caught and on to the next spot. Where I live there are no ponds or true colonies of beaver just roamers coming off the mountain or up from the bigger rivers.
These cages allow for the ditch riders, farmer, rancher etc to do their jobs with dogs in tow with out fear of injury to them. In the past you suspended a 330 across the ditch but this made it rough on dogs.

Yea, and you would need a much larger trap and the place to put it, if it worked like that every time. M-T has a good point. Even if your design allowed for the catching of a complete colony. You still would need to get it to the location. Have the ideal location conditions such as water depth and flow. Even where the house or den was located in the pond. What if there were no runs or holes, just slides.

Best to experiment. Nothing better than actual experience.

I can tell you I have a full arsenal of this type 12x12 up to 18x18 so as to fit any size situation. Even in the odd case of a lodge with a run, a painters pole with a hook on it makes fast work of setting them.

Wow to see a Rob Russell post

RIP Brother!

Ttt