I need new 110's. I am very interested in the Bridger 110 Magnum. What do you guys think?

i love them. close tight and kill quick

What are you looking to catch in the 110s

I am wanting to remove the non spring side hinge pin, add a bolt, washers, nuts, and an ell bracket. I need to screw them to houses for squirrels and other such peskycritters.

Take this for what's worth: ( Maybe not much depending on area ) While you're fixing your #110s, I would have probably caught most of the squirrels in eliminators or cage traps. However, for muskrats and mink, which most 110s are made for, the addition of another spring on the side you're fooling with anyway,( that would make it a #120 ) would make that trap an absolute killer in the water.

Then I would buy the victor size 55 they could be called 60s now . The 110 size might be to big for red squirrels . You could also narrow down the trap by moving the trigger off to one side and placing a strip of hardware cloth on the other between the jaws . Nice thing about the 55 size is they fit in tight places

We bid our jobs by the animal caught, we don't use one way excluders ( except for bats). In some cases i have found it to be a faster setup installing body grippers. I have 2.5 and 3 inch round body grippers modified with angle brackets. I have had them fail. The single spring sometimes spins around the trap and doesn't close properly. I will be buying the Magnums, and some 55's.

Thanks.

I have the round as well . I'm told they can't be close to the hole so what good are they . They don't work for me . I have 4 different sizes and found the larger size works well for under the ice baited conibears for muskrats and thats about it .I have the very small and haven't had any luck with them . 55 victor I just smoke the squirrel in them

Hey D, my fault for not being more specific. We bid our jobs by the animals caught too. When I say eliminator, I am misspeaking, I guess. When the eliminator first came out, we instantly added a back to it and it became perhaps, one of the first repeating cages. I am so used to using this term with our guys that I sometimes confuse the reader. Sorry.

No problem Paul, I tend to read fast and mistook Eliminator for Excluder.

Pesky, yes the RBG's do need to be set a little more than half their diameter from the entry, exit point. Makes them a pain in the arse sometimes.

Thanks for the replies guys!

I use Duke magnums exclusively. The only others I've used that I think are better are the BMI mags and when I need more will probably get me a dozen of those. Haven't used belisles but they look to be the best.
Paul, I'll go head to head with you cage vs 110 and put my money on cleaning them out before you cage your first one. Just my experience down here but a 110 over the hole is a no brainer where the tree rat has to want to enter the cage. This time of year with the pecans, hickory nuts and acorns everywhere the squirrels ignore anything they have to work for (enter a small enclosure). As a matter of fact my standard set consists of three traps, two baited cages and a 110. The 110 goes over the hole and the cages flank the 110 each facing away from the hole. Ninety percent of the time all will be caught in the 110 and the cages never get a hit. Now that will change in a month or so when baits start working again but the 110 still goes over the hole.
The eliminator, I assume you mean the one way attached the a cage, has it's place but on our wide open rooflines it's a non starter for me as they refuse to enter but opt for one of the many other gaps to exit. Without full exclusion prior to installing a one way I can not be successful with one ways in my area.

David, fortunately for us, our squirrels go right from high school to the working force while your squirrels go on to college and maybe even Masters and PHD degrees. I've actually had squirrels run into the cage while I was trying to put the screws in. My goal is to cross all of our problem animals with opossums and have them develop the same cunning and trap shyness of the opie.