I purchased the collarum trap for a coyote job. I tried twice and it was unsuccessful, however, last week, I finally caught one on my third try. Here is what I did. I dug a hole for the trap and placed it as the video shows that comes with the trap and sifted a bunch of dirt over it to hide it. I placed the Collarum bait generously on the trigger piece and left the area. In all of the areas, there were signs of coyotes such as scat and prints. I did not place it on the trail. I put it aside from the trail. I am in California were this is the only type of trap that is allowed besides a snare for coyotes.

My questions are:

1. What else should I have done to make it effective?

2. Is the Collarum the best bait?

3. Should I have used coyote urine, or lures? If so what kind?

From what Allan has told me. If you put the trap on a slight hill so it is tilted, it will go over the head easier. Also WCS sells a bait specifically for it. Ask them about it.

http://ow.ly/sZtG7 wcs posted this elsewhere... pretty good shot of a capture.

Because of how the collarum functions, you need to throw away most of your standard trapping knowledge when using it.

The first big difference is how the trap fires. The trigger must be raised to fire the device instead of pushed down like a standard foothold. For that to happen you need to install a bite stick of some sore (the device comes with a plastic T and piece of rubber hose that can be used). The second difference is that instead of having jaws come up and close on each other, two arms are thrown in one direction away from the trigger much like a catapult throws a stone. This requires the coyote to be directly between both of the arms when the collarum is fired. To accomplish that you need to make sure the coyote approaches the bite stick at a 90 degree angle to the travel pathway. The last difference is that instead of jaws closing on the foot pad, the collarum must "throw" the capture cable over the coyotes head and past the ears for a capture to happen.

To make all of this work requires some unusual techniques.

1. When you install a bite stick, make sure it is fastened to the trigger so it cannot be pulled off.
2. Wrap gauze or athletic tape around the bite stick to help hold the bait on the bite stick better and prevent it from washing off in wet weather.
3. Install the throw device in such a manner that the front end is slightly lower than the back (where the nails go to hold it down). Never have the front end higher than the back.
4. Make sure the throw arms are wide enough apart to allow the coyotes head to not get hit and that they are not bent or twisted from setting the device. This happens when you grab the top of the arms to set the trap instead of down where they are attached to the device.
5. Use the maximum amount of cable possible for your loop. I start with the deer stop right against the holder clip on the left arm then make a nice loop that fits loosely into the right clip then run the cable through the cinch spring. When done, the shock spring should be lay flat shortly past the notch in the frame.
6. Create a U shape with fencing so the only approach the coyote has is a direct 90 degree from the trail. The bite stick should sit about 24 - 30 inches from the opening of the U.
7. Use a bait that triggers a bite and pull response. CCB (Collarum Canine Bait)from WCS is specifically formulated to do this. So is the CCB bait made by ADC Redneck Pride. Smear the bait over the bite stick pushing it into the gauze or tape.
8. Wait for the coyote to get caught. This may take some time as it may depend on time of year and the coyote itself. I've had dominant dogs walk right past the collarums ignoring them (especially right now) that have taken days to weeks to finally fire the trap. I've also had pups of the year get caught the first night set. Currently, I use the Covert Black Ops cameras to monitor all my collarum sets as I only use them when I have issues with domestic dogs, people, or the ground is too frozen and I don't want to do the work to use a foothold.

Thing I don't recommend doing:

1. Use any other attractor. You don't want the coyote going off the trail circling the collarum or trying to mark it. You don't want them "working" the set like a dirt hole until they are caught. The only thing you want them to do is bite and pull the bite stick so the more odors you put at the set the less chance of having that happen in my experience.
2. Cover the cable and/or throwing device or cinch spring. First, this will slow down the cable and you need every fraction of a second to make sure it gets past the ears. You also don't want the coyote standing on the device or cinch spring that is covered by dirt or the packed dirt itself not allowing the trap to work properly.
3. Have fencing material that the cable or throw arms hit when fired.
4. Giving the collarum two or three days before trying something else. This device is very specific with how it operators so it may take a while before the coyote fires it off. As long as the camera keeps telling me the coyotes are there I keep the traps out, reapplying bait as necessary.

one thing I have seen when using the tool is, on coyotes in my area, if the coyote is a urban or suburban in yards or around people, they tend to grab the bait faster, That is, when they decide to take it. The coyotes out in the farms and fields away from the people, fur trapping, tend to lick more. The reason I believe this happens is and again I may be wrong, but based on Pic's I have taken, is, the coyote in around people get in and get out. they don't play around in the dog or cat food bowls, they grab and go, maybe because they are always aware of what and who is around, where a coyote in the wilds for lack of a better word, is calmed down and in no rush. This may be a jersey thing as Not only do I see this action, but the few others that use them here in this state have the same conclusion. also as a side note I have found that taking a hunk of meat or the baits we make and putting it on the trigger and then covering it with a wad of grass, may make the wild coyote grab faster, rather than lick. Both my bait and the Baits Alan sells, I have used a lot of Tim's Baits also, I get the same response of licking before they grab so covering the baits so they can't lick it off really helps Tim is the man to talk to when it comes to these tools. By the way raccoons are the biggest problem I have with the trap, I told Alan I am going to make that thing a coon trap LOL I am getting ready to go out and put cameras on these tools for grey fox. To see how they work the trap.

I have caught a coyote once on the first night. It normally takes longer. I normally put a scent stick with some long call down for a couple of days to get the dog used to coming where I want it to. Then I set the collarum and get him. Works really well, biggest thing is to make sure the yote approachs dead straight on other wise you will educate him.