OK, thanks.



Yep, already did that. I oiled it a second time and its now drying.

I will watch for it. I've tanned several hides to pretty soft. I've had real good luck with VanDyke's, R-P Outdoors, etc. This way just seems simple, with ingredients readily available. The only hide I lost was a large coon that didn't get fully degreased. You might explain that part to us. Thanks Friend.

does this work with dried skins by just skipping the salting step?

Yes if you have dried skins go right to the soaking stage,only thing,dont soak too long,or you could get some hairslip.
If the skin is not re-hydrating fast enough take it out and scrape it on the beam,especially hard spots,this will help the skin take up the water.

On greasy hides I use the laundry soap and a scrub brush to really give the skin a good going over.This helps a lot.Do not let the skin soak in the laundry soap,just wash good and rinse out all the soap.With a greasy hide it is good to really water down the tanning oil.A greasy type hide needs a lot less tanning oil.
The reason a pickle tan does not hold up in a garment is that the tan itself will leach out of the skin and with sweat and moisture over time the leather will become hard and crack.High humidity is not good for these skins either,so don't store them in a damp basement.

Now that the hide is pickle tanned I will mix up a commercial tan,and put the pickle tanned skin directly into the commercial tan mixed as per instructions.Since the skin is already oiled and broken,this last step just involves soaking,rinsing and drying the skin.It will soften very easily after the commercial tan,and will require no more oiling,although it wont hurt to re-oil a thick skin like beaver.You can also clean and tumble the skin again if you re-oil.
Since the skin is already oiled and broken,the commercial tan will penetrate the skin in a day,but I will leave it in longer to be sure.For thin skins you can get away with mixing the commercial tan half strength,as well as using the solution for more skins.You will need to experiment with this a bit to get the full use of your commercial tanning agent.

I have now finished the garment tan and this is what the finished skin looks like.It can now be sewn into a hat,or collar or other garment and it will stand up to the wear.



About 10 days total.

Looks like alot of work....think I'll just keep selling dried hides for beer money and use the cornmeal for frying catfish

...not much of a market for earmuffs and scarfs down here anyway, you hear me Boco lol

..probably not with those goofy earmuffs on

We call earmuffs,Bullshite protectors,Savell,lol.

Good job.

BOCO - I used your tanning formula on the ringtail. It turned out real nice. I never got around to the
tanning oil (which I have plenty), but it's pretty supple. The ringtail is thin skin. Sorry I don't do pics
Thanks!

TTT

Boco, is this the same process you would follow to prepare a beaver hide for a hooped wall hanger? Or how would that process deviate? Thanks, Al

Very well done....let this ride for a bit so more folks can view it. Then to the Archives it will go. Thank You. Tom

Boco,

Can't you go straight to the pickle after fleshing and skip the salting?

Yes you can use this for a wall hanging or beaver on a hoop.
You can go right to the pickle without salting.
If you need to do any shaving on the leather, the salting will help(as long as it is not salt dried).
Salting a hide then rolling it up for 2 days,unroll,shake off the old salt then it is ready for shaving.

Boco There should be a big market for those protectors in TX. You maybe hit a gold mine.

*

Boco, you will not understand how much I appreciate this thread! Thank you!