what do the experts here advise for mice?

Thanks!

Exclusion and snap traps. Bait is food and will draw them in. If I wanted to kill mice, I would put bait in the woods, would it help? No.
That is for any building that people live in. For farm buildings or places that cannot be excluded I like the new soft baits.

Sounds like you're having the worst year ever for mice; just like us. Checked 11 bait stations at one of our largest houses. Not a

single drop of bait in any one of the boxes and I do them every month. There are so many rodents this year that it is scary. Great

for business though. Lundy, did you ever open a bait box and find any of the soft bait still there? Me neither.

We initially bait the attic and crawlspace. Install exterior bait station's and interior stations in basements and garages. Sell an exclusion to get most access sealed. I don't think you can ever do a complete exclusion especially with a crawlspace. Too big of a chance for subterranean entrance.

Travis, I'll agree with a dirt floor, I don't see many here. I look high and low. I had a house that I couldn't figure out, until I went there in January, right after a fresh snow fall. Walking up to the front door I noticed animal tracks on the roof. They went under the flashing around the chimney. The house was about 50 feet wide, vaulted ceiling, with a second level, opposite the front door, and two closets into the attic. I was always catching mice in the attic. Stucco siding with minor hairline cracks.
With concrete floors in our basements, I look for openings in the concrete. Drain tile leading to a sump basin, 1" well line in a 4" drain tile thru the concrete and cutout for P-trap under bathtub in basement. Grate caps on the drain tile, custom cut flashing to fit inside drain tile but well line runs thru, for the p-trap, 2-4" wide tongue and groove boards. I cut the boards two inches longer than the opening. I cut enough pieces to cover the opening. Start on one side, slide pieces together until I get to the pipe, mark the pipe, then cut 1/2 of the hole. Cut the other half at the same spot on the next board. Slide the pieces together and you are done. I have also covered the opening with sheet metal and 1/4" mesh. Wood is easier to work with.

Roof access is huge here. Get in Indy and virtually nobody has drip edge. Causes all sorts of problems from mice and bats to squirrels and coons. Crawlspace vents, brick fronts, weep holes, electrical and gas penetrations and vinyl corners are the common areas I start with.

I like bait programs because I like residual income.

new regs coming in over here, baiting only allowed for 28 days,they say that should be long enough to sort out any rat or mouse problem, after that monitoring baits only in bait stations, or traps, i have already had customers who say that they are not willing to pay me just to check monitor baits, i will probably lose a few of my good contracts.
it is supposed to help stop secondry poisoning, but it will only bother us professionals, joe public will still be able to do what they want.
Oh Bliss


Brian

appreciate the replies!

so...is there more than one "soft bait", or should I be able to figure it out?

this is in a couple of unheated sheds (and, in my basement). the place is ANYTHING but mouse-proof...yes, I know it'll be an on-going process.

thanks again!

Ha, now there's a good question that I don't know the answer to. I was referring to First Strike by Liphatech.

For you guys that do mouse exclusion how far out are you putting your hardware cloth ? I have always went 16-18 inches from the foundation. Just curious what other companies are doing. I have been using 1/4 inch black vinyl coated stuff too real easy to work with and last forever.

I posted this on one of the facebook pages as well.

Thanks, Paul!

Yes, there is more than one type of soft bait.

Lipatech makes two types I believe, then Brigand makes one, and Bell Labs makes another. The Bell Labs version already has a hole in the middle so you don't have to "punch" a hole in the bait when putting on the holding rods.

Both soft pouch baits are very acceptable baits compared to rigid block type baits.We use a variety bait presentation in our stations and the soft baits go first in most all cases.

truthfully, I'm not real familiar with the soft baits. I've only (recently) used the solid-type blocks available to homeowners.

In the past, we tried the decon pellets. they just ended up being stored in obscure places (packed up glassware, hoods of winter jackets, etc.); only to be found months later.

White, that is why pellets are being phased out and why I hate bait!

Baiting alone is not the cure all for serious rodent problems. Trapping is most effective but does require vested time and patience over a period of weeks in some acute cases.Then baiting will help with maintenance if the numbers are knocked down sufficiently.

Another opinion...

For mice, rodenticides are more effective than trapping. The thing about mice, they produce 5-10 litters each year. AKA....if you don't get every single one within 4-6 weeks of trapping and completely secure the home perfectly....you will more to trap. They have no need to go outside, either.

Rats - Yes trapping is better.

What rodenticides work well and are still safe to use where dogs, puppies or cats may eat the dead or dieing mice?

Keith

That is called secondary poisoning. You can obtain technical bulletins from the various manufacturers. You just have to ask! Here is an example:
http://www.crittercatchersinc.com/critters/Mice/rodenticide_secondary_poisioning.html