have any of yall tried them? i seen one today and it seems to be a beast of a trap. just looked them up and a good price to boot. how did yall like them?
loking at getting a few more diller traps and after seeing them i am thinking about getting some but the camstocks have not felled me yet

good traps fur trappers like them. I have used them in the past for fur and ADC. like them for fur more than ADC.

Real good trap At a good price. I love them. Obviously no powered doors, but I caged a few coons this week. The are stuffy, but the jail bair doors allow them to reach through

I got lucky when I first started this business. A couple was getting out of cage trapping for the city and I got 24 Wickenkamps at

$15 apiece. They hardly ever need repair and that unique welded bar pan seems to fool even foxes. Not the most versatile cage but it

certainly has its place. Throw Back, if the coons are still reaching through the doors you can clip some cage wire to the doors to

stop them.

yeah throwback that's why I said not my first choice for ADC, they pull too much back in the trap on the ground instead of carrying 15 to 20lbs of coon out, I am carrying 40 pounds of coon and whatever else, and if on the roof to much work to keep them from tearing a roof off

What Ron Jones said. Had a few years ago but got rid of them. After a few coon grabbed me thru the wire while transporting them back to my vehicle and the amount of turf damage due to the wire grid size being so large. Just not a good trap for my use or choice.

Apparently I'm the only one that has gotten used to being grabbed by raccoons thru the wire. The new Wickenkamps feature half by one

inch wire and the bars on the bottom of the doors are about one quarter inch apart. I'm sure this minimizes digging and I would like

to tell you how good of a job they do but all of those cages are grabbed by the rest of the guys. If I ever get the chance to steal

one out of their trucks when they ain't looking, I will give you a full report.

The 302 ADC model has addressed the wire size and door gap size. Its 1/2 x 1 wire and bottom of door filled in, with top of door spacing just large enough for pole if you use one.

Kurt Temple

I found my Huckleberry preference in cages years ago. I got rid of all the variety cages that you tend to accumulate in your beginning years. No gravity closure doors for the most part except for a couple tube traps and very few that don't have rear access doors.

What can I say, you find a system, and what works, so you tend to standardize your equipment for your way of doing things. Still have a variety of things just have narrowed the field somewhat.

Bob and I pretty much think alike but not always. Over the years we have received a number of cages with rear access doors. ( usually

from customers ) The first thing I do is get rid of the rear door and put a solid back on the cage. It's bad enough making sure the

raccoons don't bust out of the front door but the first time they escaped from a brand new back door was also the last time.

Paul you do know that you are supposed to replace the sliding rear door into the track after it has been used.

I have a friend that bought a few of the squirrel sized rear access designed traps years ago. He called and couldn't figure out why he wasn't catching some flying squirrels in an attic. He said the bait was always gone too.

So I volunteered to go over to the job site with him to see what I could find as to the reason. I examined his traps and said I think I found the problem. He exclaimed what was the problem? As I pointed to the rear sliding doors laying on top of the insulation near each trap. He just looked in amazement at me and smiled. He said I guess it would help to put the sliding doors back into place before I set the traps.

I said yes I think that may solve your problem. He is about your age now Paul. LOL

See, what did I tell you. I was being pro-active in preventing my own stupidity from spoiling a catch. Now if I could only remember

where I left my keys!