i have excluded bats from many log houses in my area it has become my bread and butter over the last few years.
had a bat call today for bats under the eves of the house. so i go out and do my inspection and sure nuff bats are under the eves. i search the house over and can not find any bats in the attic (good).
to explain the house. it is a full log cabin. not the h logs or the d logs but full round logs with a c cut out on the bottom so that they rest together. who ever built the house did a great job because there are very few gaps. the beams around the house that the roof is tied to is where the bats are roosting. they are wedging themselves between the 1x6 (tin roof)and the big full round beam. i have only seen this one other time and we were able to harass the bats for two days and they left unharmed but this place is going to be a little more difficult. over the front porch area the roosting area is the main beam that runs the length of the house. they are wedging themselves between the beam and 1x6. the other kicker is that i will probly need the 40 or 48 foot ladder to get to the beams.

if i knew how to post pictures i would post a few.

Can you get a lift in? Can you fill the areas that the bats are wedging themselves into? Maybe foam backer wedges covered with the appropriate colored caulk?

Looked at that but the yard drops off to a creek and it is a rock hill. That stuff was sliding just walking on the rock.
Thought about the foam stripps but sure how well that would hold up long term. I'm not a big fan of foam but sometime you use what you have to.

Expensive but May look more apealing ... Copper from the 1x6 and down 1 1/2" to the log to block the spot off

Is the main problem access?

I'm assuming you may be talking about the large main beam that on most of my cabins of that type are the highest from the ground (the peaks) and run through the great room and upstairs of the home.

On most of mine the bats are either entering the area where the round log doesn't fit the squared off trim so there is a hole, or a full a slot all the way down the sides of the log to the cabin exterior.

In my case it's always big brown bats who like these big cabins and yes sadly the highest point and often on the side of a doe sloping hill...

Many of mine have had a wooden deck to ladder up from though still a long distance.

Have been able to exclude with one ways though on all of them, easier if there is a gap the length of the log so you can give them a one way closer to the house versus out at the tip of that log.

Still doesn't make sealing it any easier.

Have had to use rope work to get at some of those areas where the ladders just don't cut it and a lift isn't practical or possible.

Pics would help everyone have a better idea of what your primary issue is or constraint.

Most of mine are those type of logs you mention, with metal roofing and flashing.

that black area in the center of the circle is bats. as you can see the main beam there does not touch the one bys the gap between the beam and 1xs is about 5 inches. what are your thoughts?

Is there a for floor under that, like a deck or porch? If too high for large ladder renting scaffolding would get you up there.

In terms of filler to remove the gaps after you vent the bats out, you could color match and chink it if the rest of the cabin has it.

It fill the bulk of the gap/crevice with any number of things and then use some high grade caulk again color matched if they desire that.

I have had a few bats at those joints but mostly mine are where those beams hit the structure itself (the exterior of the home).

Up there the only species I've seen damage any exclusion materials or building materials was woodpecker or flickers.

But even they are usually pecking out at the end of the upper ridge.

Not sure if that helps, if you are just wondering materials, many things would resolve that, comes down to typical things, homeowners aesthetic, yours as the pro, other wildlife that may impact that later after in place and open up again...

The only solution i could come up with...painted to match color as close as i could

The east visual way I can think to keep them out of an area like that would be bird/deer netting put up with a staple gun. I bet you wouldn't even see the fine mesh.

Bat net would work, have seen lots of them dead in bird netting and other garden net, big enough for them to get snagged in,
altbough any netting even bat net not string tightly can ensnare and kill them.

If I'm looking at your pics right you are just saying they are in between the logs, in the notches? Micro area in terms of possible materials to resolve lots of them.

(Disclaimer, only mentioning the size and tightness of the net in case you haven't employed this before for bats or small birds. If you have not trying to be condescending or point out the obvious. I've just seen several nets where several dozen bats ended up caught and didn't make it, so worth noting for anyone who hasn't worked with it before in this application. Bad for the bats, but also bad for your image.)

We have done lots of work like that using bent coil flashing. One side would be relatively flat the other will have to be bent or hammered to contour to the log surface area with a rubber mallet. Then nail the ends with aluminum soffit nails to match the coil stock color as you go down the line the length of the piece.

Musket brown coil stock cut in the appropriate sizes to cover the hang/attachment points is what I would do. Then paint to blend in as best you can. They wont be able to roost there after the install and it can be very symmetrical and cosmetic if you do a good job.

I put up black poly coated 1/2" by 1/2" 16 gauge wire...aint nothing going thru

Had a bat get into a fan that had 1/2 x 3/8 guarding.

If there is a deck below that area, you may be able to locate one of these push-around telescopic lifts. I bought this one about 10 years ago, and I use it on a lot of A-frame homes built on hillsides. Bats and flyers always seem to use the gable peaks, and this can be rolled around the deck walkway or sidewalk to the back of the home. Shoots you straight up to access the peaks. I had to use it here to access the gable peak on a structure for bat-proofing. There was less than 6 feet between the buildings, not enough room for my towable lift, and the gas meters were in the way making it impossible to drive my scissors lift between them.



I also use this lift to change light bulbs in gymnasiums and churches (interior) as it fits through a 34 inch door.

Those are slick Ron! I only realized those were available recently when looking for some tricky access gear.

Lots of good applications for them as you say. How heavy are they in terms of getting up and into a home
with a great room or onto a porch?

***

DaveK - Would agree, depending on the species of bat you are talking about 1/2" isn't a problem, wasn't sure
if Josh was referring to other wildlife or future issues other than bats, versus the bat exclusion issue there on those
logs.

With those kinds of wheels and low clearance I don't think moving it would be real easy to push on a lawn without planking or board tracking of sorts and lots of muscle. Then you better make sure it is level and stabilized if not being used on concrete, hardwood or hardtop surfaces. Working on a sidewalk would be most desirable.

I could have used one of those many years ago in a great room log house along a lake. They can weigh 400 to 800 pounds. Would be nice to have a gear drive axle on them.

I have seen some with outriggers which I think is a great safety addition like used on a towable lift. Even Staking with riggers on four corners sounds like a good idea to me. Never used one like that but have seen them for sale and at some schools we have done work for over the years.

Like Ron stated in the schools they are mostly used for ceiling access for bulb changing, electrical work in the ceilings and panel work access. They are handy for use on hard surface areas.

One sure would be nice in certain applications if they could be used safely.

It has 4 outriggers, each having a plunger-style micro-switch which prevents it from being used unless all 4 switches are "closed" and the unit is level. It's hard to find them at most equipment rental stores.

Bob is 100% correct regarding surfaces... no way to push, pull or drag this thing on a lawn. Only to be used on smooth, hard surfaces, or by planking to desired location and using boards under each outrigger to prevent sinking into the ground.

This one weighs a bit over 650 pounds, but has a removable handle that allows tilting it over part way to get through doorways. Very slick design.

This video shows the outriggers and basic features.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk4dEcmUNO8

how high will that lift reach? it would be perfect if it would go high enough. as of now looks like I may be using scaffolding