How about a little talk aboout trail sets? Being a road/snowshoe trapper my whole life, I would like to learn a little more about making sets in my snowmachine trails for next year. The local trapper in my area uses these as his primary sets for k9's and cats and does quite well with them. So lets hear it, trap sizes, trap placement, trail condions, and drags. Also would like to know about being able to run over your set with your snowmachine after a set is made without setting the trap off.

If I was after cats or wolves, the trap would be in the center of the trail. I'f I was after fox it would be in the lowest part of the trail.

I bury my drags in the trail rather than off the side. Wak ahead of the machine and bury the drag but leav a piece of cable accessible. Walk back and drive over your tracks. Set the trap off the back of the machine or a sled. I don't drive over mine. I walk forward and remove them with a shovel. Drive past and replace them. I'd use an MB750.

Steve, I use them for snaring fox. The only downfall is having to drive over them and reset them every time (snares).

I also think that you need enough snow to nearly force the critters to use your trail. I think a sure fire method if you are trapping with a partner would be to have your partner ride in the sled and set from the back of it. There would be virtually no disturbance.

I find that my fox get smart to trail sets if we don't get enough snow to cover my tracks that I made getting off the machine.

Sounds good Ken but seems like alot of work on check day to keep popping up and resetting the traps. I am guessing like setting at a cubby that you would want to keep the dog of your trap to either your right or left. The local trapper tells me that every year he needs to wait for his trail to "set up" which doesn't take long before he can start setting. He also uses mostly #3's and says he likes to kinda turn the trap at 45 deg to the trail someting about being able to disperse the weight of his snowmachine that allows him to run over the set without setting it off. He says he is good to go untill he gets a 3-4 inch snow fall.

what about studded machines?

For wolves I use #9/MB750, I try to set where the next time I'm back I can "plow" over some thick willows on one side or the other, sometimes I'll leave my trail a 100ft or so and when I circle back set my trail where I left it and when it needs resetting I can do it from the side of the machine.

Steve~ . When I set wolf traps in the middle of my sno- go trail. I carry two pieces of 2x4 about a foot long with me and lay them down, one in front of the trap and the other behind the trap and carefully go over it. It works about 95% of the time, Then you stop and hang off the back of the machine and re arrange your stepping or guide sticks and retrieve your 2x4 sticks . I run a Tundra which is pretty light so it might not work with a bigger machine ,But would be worth a try. And of course super soft snow screws every thing up . Good luck next year

Danielle

Yeah Clinton but mine and probably everyones eles's luck(except yours,lol) would that the critters would take your trail that goes "next to" the one set!

That's why I plow over thick brush, they never follow it and since I "fall" off the trail all the time it looks natural on my line LOL

Blind trail sets are my favorite sets. I think I'm also little partial to them as my very first cat I ever caught when I was 11 was in a trail set. If I was snowshoeing I would definetly use them too. I work in front of my machine. I take all the branches off one side of two small trees and drop them across your trail aproximately 8-10 inches apart. I use 2 traps, size depends on my target, all mine have 3-4 foot chains on so I go around one tree and anchor to the other one and do the opposite with the other trap. I sandwich the whole trap between wax paper and cover a with a little snow. Then I drive right over it with my machine and sled. VERY effective set, I usually put them in the vicinity of a baited, scented set, I catch a lot of critters this way. I think our cold dry climate probably makes a big difference as to being able to drive over it, in your warmer humid weather you might not be able to on your machine but snowshoes would still work good. Just draw snowmachine tracks in the snow instead. Heres a picture of one on my line.

steve,
I did like White said about fox and the low point. I set the trap in the ski trail and then drove over it, and it didn't ever go off, but when the fox stepped in it it did.. I also set some in the middle of the trails and drive over them without setting them off. I do have a wide track so that may be why they don't go off

I also like to use pee posts on the trail...
either I drive right by a nice looking stick or bush, or I use a clump of dead grass I bundle up in the fall and "plant" it off the trail. then you can either add urine to it, or let them do it on thier own..

That looks great AKNTRPR, was just thinking of the few snares I have in the trail, the iron dog is comeing through soon and have to move them, they sure chew the trail up and a few have some wild wrecks, once I changed the trail sharply to one side before a ditch out in the open cause it was a cut bank both sides and the leader slammed right into it, they were there for a while looked like.

I try to set my trail set in the brush, so on the next check I can do a half circle with tight turns through the brush. Basically I am going around it, but through the brush. Most animals always follow the easiest and straightest trail. That way I don't run over the trap and I can always reset it by walking through the brush to the edge of the trail and reset if needed. I usually leave untouched unless a lot snow falls or the wind blows.

I endorse the "set on the low side of the track for fox" tactic that W17 mentioned.

In fact, when breaking trail, I often deliberately put all of the weight of my fat butt over onto one side of the machine for a few yards to "prepare" a slanty piece of trail to set on the next time through.

Pete

Great information guys, thanks!

Akntpr- Great pic! Thats alot like the local trapper sets his trails. For the record though I am trapping near Glennallen where it is very dry and COLD! You would be surprised of some of the temps in some pockets of the Nelchina Basin. That is probably why the local waits for his trails to "set up" before putting out his line. What size traps are you using and is there anything to "positioning" the trap in the trail?

I like trail sets but hate having to move footholds or snares to pass by. The new snowmobiles with the big lugs seem to set off traps rather than pass over them. I'm more inclined to follow Takotna strategy. I put most of my trail sets on rivers and creeks. I believe that wolves in particular are less spooky in open areas where they can see all around them. I'll cruise along laying a nice trail and then veer off up over the bank into the willows or trees for about 20 yds. before returning to the creek. Then I lay a foot trail connecting the two snowmobile tracks and place a foothold just off each trail. This set must be familiar to to many of you as I've seen a version in your manual.

I like to set a nine in the middle of the trail with the dog pointed to the side. dig a hole the size of your set trap and about 1/2" deeper than your trap . I also trap on a river and a spud a little hole in the ice and coil about 2 foot of chain in it alternating snow and water on it packing it in the hole tight. About 1/2 hour it will not pull out.Cover trap with wax paper and when you drive over trap with snogo lean over the gas tank a little and it will not set the trap off if the trail is set up and no big paddles on machine. The track itself will put about 1/2" of snow on trap so when you initially cover trap do so very lightly just to break the out line. This set will be operative for about three driveovers then you have to lift trap and cover again. These sets are about impossible to see when finished so make sure you remember where they are when it comes time to pull them. Good luck.

It's about time you offered some of that expertise Spotter. For those of you who want to take the Wolf class, Spotter is one you could learn a lot from . Thanks for the post.

Thanks piper, but just like everybody else there is very little that I do that someone else did not show or tell me and the rest is alot of trial and error.