So today I scouting a few farms for coyote and made a plan to hang CR, with our Michigan laws on CR it makes it hard to set where there's no possibility of entanglement..only spots I found clear of entanglement were in thick swamp grass, no place to tie off to..
So I came up with a cheap and easy way of supporting my CR with frozen ground...I'm sure it's been done before, seems like a fast quick setup, I'm going tape the CR to the support like in the picture...if anyone has a better solution chime in...

Used a 6" spike, notched with file on both sides so the support wire won't spin...
Wrapped wire tight around the spike, and chucked in my drill to make it twisted...
Will see how she works...





Will hang CR like this...

If you wrap that wire around the head of your anchor stake you can forget about the spike.
Just one less thing to deal with.

The other thing you should do Is keep your lock up at the top of your CR loop. It will close a lot faster In that position. That means your stabilizing wire will have to be long enough so the wire Is above the top of your loop.

Thanks ^^^^ I'm using earth anchors...I don't have any stakes made up....earth anchors is all I have at this time....

Will you be able to drive those anchors In frozen ground? I know around here In WI there Is no way I could drive any type of earth anchor In this frozen ground.

I hope so....areas I'm targeting are swampy thick grass areas where the coyotes have been traveling or hunting...about 4" or so of frozen ground....course we just had a warm spell...

WE just got about a 1 1/2 of rain last night. Some of my CR locations are under water.
I guess according to the law I won't have to check them for 4 days. LOL

No kidding.....same here, looks like I'll need to put on my chest waders if I want to hang any cable....

I've used a 16d nail with fair success but think the larger 20d would work better. The only thing I don't like about doing it this way is if you get some warm weather the support may sag as the top soil gets soft. As the frost gets thicker I change over from earth anchors to rebar stakes and anchor further way from the set. This usually means closer to entanglement but could possibly work the other way. Anchoring away from the set usually means I can reuse the same set since it didn't get destroyed within the catch circle. Still experimenting with what works for me but I do know that I will have to adapt due to different conditions and weather. Appreciate all the things I've learned from you guys so far!

Use 1/2" rebar trap stake. Drill a hole through it with a drill press. Run support wire through hole then wrap it around stake.

If you can't drill the hole, use Slim Pedersen's method: Wrap support wire around stake leaving about 4" of it to stick in ground to prevent wire from spinning. You may need to drive a spike in the ground to make a hole for support wire end.

You can use what you made up, but it would help to have a short tail of wire to go in to the ground to help keep the nail from spinning. If the nail (your support) spins, then the lock cant start to work until the animal spins the support to its maximum reach. With that said, you may have some issues or you might not. Probably depends on a lot of different factors. If that's all you got then get out and use them, but next time I would personally make some with the tail to go in to the ground a little bit to help keep them from spinning. The snare shop makes something similar to what you made, but with the tail. check their site out to see what we are talking about.

Good luck

take a stick wrap your wire around It. Then with your re bar drive a pilot hole for your stick. Once you have placed your stick In the pilot hole take your hammer and pound the living daylights out of the ground around your stick. That will set the stick so It won't turn.
Good luck.

Thanks, good info...

I just basically used what I had in the garage, had a bunch of polebarn spikes and wire....wanted something light weight and quick without looking around for a tie off plus it had to drive in frozen ground...the spikes don't spin once in the ground that's for sure..

Don't do a lot of cr just keeping a small line to check...one thing I do like is I don't have a lot of cable hanging around to hide...

Will see how they work..

Thanks for the input....

Ambush, where does it state in the Michigan laws about no entanglement???


Winter Fox and Coyote Non-Lethal Cable Restraints
Non-lethal cable restraints may be used from Jan. 1 through March 1 to take fox and coyotes, provided:

Cable restraints are not placed on publicly owned land or commercial forest lands.


All cable restraints in possession or carried afield must have a metallic identification tag affixed with the owner's or user's name and address or Michigan driver's license number.


Steel cable 1/16-inch or larger is used.


The cable restraint loop does not exceed 15 inches in diameter.


The top of the loop is not placed more than 24 inches above the ground. In snow, 24 inches is measured from the compacted snow in a trapper's footprint established by the full body weight of the trapper.


Cable restraints are equipped with a relaxing lock. A relaxing lock is defined as a lock that allows the loop to loosen slightly to reduce the possibility of strangulation. Cable restraints also must be equipped with a stop to prevent the loop from closing to a diameter less than 4¼ inches. Regulations on loop size and relaxing lock are designed to prevent the accidental loss of domestic animals and other nontarget species.


Cable restraints are equipped with a breakaway locking system with a breaking point not greater than 285 pounds. The breakaway device must be attached to the relaxing lock.


Cable restraints are affixed to a stake or object sufficient to hold a fox or coyote. It is illegal to use any type of drag.


Cable restraints are equipped with two swivels, including one swivel at the anchor point.


Spring poles, counterbalanced weights, springs or other similar devices are not used to close the cable restraint.


Cable restraints may be up to 60 inches in length, not including a cable anchor extension. The cable anchor extension may be up to 36 inches in length.


Cable restraints are not attached to a fence or set in a manner that would allow an animal to become entangled in a fence.


Cable restraints may be anchored to woody vegetation provided that the stem is free of branches and stubs to a height of five feet above the ground or compacted snow. Branches and stubs must be cut flush with the outer bark of the stem.


Cable restraints may not be set so that a restrained animal is suspended with two or more feet off the ground.

Ambush, i use a setup like yours with a common spike with good luck. Yours will work good too. Hope you cable some k9s.

Love bite---I guess I'm going into it as the regs state to use a relaxing lock to reduce the possibility of strangulation...
If the restrained animal was to get entangled I'm assuming the relaxing lock may not relax those causing strangulation?
I'm not sure here but I'm guessing I could entangle on in thick brush enough to eliminate the use of the relaxing lock?

Or if there is enough brush around there's a possibility with low hanging limbs the restrained animal could be suspended...

Maybe I'm over thinking the regs, maybe someone could clear this up for me...

Thanks

IVE been using the kind Dustin Drews shows on u-tube they work excellent the only change. I made was to use a pogo as the anchor and made it retrievable. Not for the anchor just so I can reuse the support. Sometimes they can be reused after a few catchs . I like his method for ease of setting, and I can preset the supports before season and come back and attach the cable. so they are used to seeing the support wire. In frozen ground I make a pilot hole then drive in the anchor/support. As a amature cr trapper ive done well with that system. The pogo is the weakest part of the link.Im not a fan of pogos myself

Ttt