I used Beavs idea too. I put a sheet of vinyl on it as it lives outside on saw horses mostly.
Hope to upgrade this year. Plan to set up so it can also drag heavy things into the building.

Someone on here was talking about a DC hoist that would run through a battery charger that plugs into AC. That, would open a lot more options for me.

Think it was fishguts showed a pic of a hori set up on a countertop.

You only need about 7 foot of head room to skin a coyote If you build your skinner right. And I'm not talking about re adjusting the hide a few times.

You need to build your base and attach the winch to the base. Then adapt a length of shafting to the winch shaft. You will need to get rid of the cable drum to do this. The other end of the shaft needs to be held In pillow block. Now you drill a hole In the center of the shaft so you can attach a length of belting. Old seat belts work good for this application. On the other end of the seat belt you attach a cable slip noose. Use the male end of the belt to do this.
Now when you open your coyote you just slip the loop around the tail and all the skirt fur and tighten up the noose.


Now when your skinning your winch shaft Is turning and wrapping the hide around the shaft and the carcass Is staying In place. 7' max Is all you need and you could probably get by with 6'.
To remove the hide just reverse your winch and off It comes.

It works like a dream
I'm sure ADC will have them on the market for next trapping season.

I hope this helps you guys out.

Just a after thought.

You will need to do some bending to finish off the head. So If you hang the coyote by the hocks you will gain some carcass height.

You only need about 7 foot of head room to skin a coyote If you build your skinner right. And I'm not talking about re adjusting the hide a few times.

You need to build your base and attach the winch to the base. Then adapt a length of shafting to the winch shaft. You will need to get rid of the cable drum to do this. The other end of the shaft needs to be held In pillow block. Now you drill a hole In the center of the shaft so you can attach a length of belting. Old seat belts work good for this application. On the other end of the seat belt you attach a cable slip noose. Use the male end of the belt to do this.
Now when you open your coyote you just slip the loop around the tail and all the skirt fur and tighten up the noose.


Now when your skinning your winch shaft Is turning and wrapping the hide around the shaft and the carcass Is staying In place. 7' max Is all you need and you could probably get by with 6'.
To remove the hide just reverse your winch and off It comes.

It works like a dream
I'm sure ADC will have them on the market for next trapping season.

I hope this helps you guys out.

Just a after thought.

You will need to do some bending to finish off the head. So If you hang the coyote by the hocks you will gain some carcass height.

You only need about 7 foot of head room to skin a coyote If you build your skinner right. And I'm not talking about re adjusting the hide a few times.

You need to build your base and attach the winch to the base. Then adapt a length of shafting to the winch shaft. You will need to get rid of the cable drum to do this. The other end of the shaft needs to be held In pillow block. Now you drill a hole In the center of the shaft so you can attach a length of belting. Old seat belts work good for this application. On the other end of the seat belt you attach a cable slip noose. Use the male end of the belt to do this.
Now when you open your coyote you just slip the loop around the tail and all the skirt fur and tighten up the noose.


Now when your skinning your winch shaft Is turning and wrapping the hide around the shaft and the carcass Is staying In place. 7' max Is all you need and you could probably get by with 6'.
To remove the hide just reverse your winch and off It comes.

It works like a dream
I'm sure ADC will have them on the market for next trapping season.

I hope this helps you guys out.

Just a after thought.

You will need to do some bending to finish off the head. So If you hang the coyote by the hocks you will gain some carcass height.

I'm sure ADC will have them on the market for next trapping season.

You only need about 7 foot of head room to skin a coyote If you build your skinner right. And I'm not talking about re adjusting the hide a few times.

You need to build your base and attach the winch to the base. Then adapt a length of shafting to the winch shaft. You will need to get rid of the cable drum to do this. The other end of the shaft needs to be held In pillow block. Now you drill a hole In the center of the shaft so you can attach a length of belting. Old seat belts work good for this application. On the other end of the seat belt you attach a cable slip noose. Use the male end of the belt to do this.
Now when you open your coyote you just slip the loop around the tail and all the skirt fur and tighten up the noose.


Now when your skinning your winch shaft Is turning and wrapping the hide around the shaft and the carcass Is staying In place. 7' max Is all you need and you could probably get by with 6'.
To remove the hide just reverse your winch and off It comes.

It works like a dream
I'm sure ADC will have them on the market for next trapping season.

I hope this helps you guys out.

Just a after thought.

You will need to do some bending to finish off the head. So If you hang the coyote by the hocks you will gain some carcass height.

Mine is 12 foot from the floor to the top pulley with a hand winch designed for boat trailers mounted to a 4x4 anchored to the cement. With some coyotes I need another foot. Late Bite only catches pups LOL

I decided to use one of the tall 6x6 post and build an arm off of it to hold the winch. That will give me 15' to the floor.

Do you have any trouble pulling the skin with a hand crank winch ? -Thanks

I just can't get my head wrapped around the reasoning why some trappers hang the winch In the over head position. It's so much easier to mount It on the base. And hang a snatch block In the rafters.

I just can't get my head wrapped around the reasoning why some trappers hang the winch In the over head position. It's so much easier to mount It on the base. And hang a snatch block In the rafters.

I just can't get my head wrapped around the reasoning why some trappers hang the winch In the over head position. It's so much easier to mount It on the base. And hang a snatch block In the rafters.

Throw a card board box over the winch.
My winch Is mounted to a piece of square tubing that slides over the main mast. It's set at about 4' off the ground.

Throw a card board box over the winch.
My winch Is mounted to a piece of square tubing that slides over the main mast. It's set at about 4' off the ground.

Maybe I'm too dense to understand, but please explain how that is easier than just permanently mounting it into the rafters? By having it mounted overhead I also have the added benefit of being able to use the winch to load/unload heavy stuff on or off my truck. You can't back underneath a winch that's mounted to the floor.

Ok in the very beginning of the thread a horizontal skinner is mentioned. I have lower ceilings in my garage and I’m curious on how it would work compared to vertical. Any pics or experience using one?

Think out of the box lads.

Thank you for sharing Pics ADC very nice stuff.

ADC how does that trap door setup work? Do you have to skin the coyote or coon down further by hand to use it?