Got some duke 160s which I really like. But some the trigger will travel under the dog and not snap. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?

Chainsaw file or Dremel tool to cut the notches deeper or put the dog in a vice so it's sticking above the jaw and flatten it with a hammer.

Thanks Snipe! do you know what size to look for?

Go to BASIC SETS forum and lower left for Pauls tuning-filing and also a nail/punch tapped into the yoke can help as below
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Put the trigger in a vise so that that the jaw can be as low as it can go, and the top of the trigger can be smashed a little bit without touching the jaw.


Lightly smash the top of the trigger with visegrips or a hammer so that it decreases the height of the trigger.


When done correctly, the trigger will fire more easily, with less travel, and it will fire when bumped from any direction (forward, back, left, right). When done too much, it won’t stay set. Squeeze with pliers and start over until you get it right. It makes Duke and Bridger triggers perform much, much better. Every trap I own that doesn’t come with a factory 4-way (Belisle, BMI) gets this treatment as soon as they show up at my house. I can post pictures in a few days if needed

Thanks fellas. But youre starting to confuse me. Is it that there is just more then one way to skin a cat? I suppose I can try them all.

The best way is how Aix describes it.. I put a piece of steel stock in a vice and put the bottom of the hood on top of it and tap the top of the hood with a hammer. Go easy first and test fire to confirm the travel you want.

And I found out to test them while they're wet like field conditions so they won't be too sensitive and go off on their own after you have set them. Once they get wet or icy they will fire much easier. Nothing more frustrating than walking away from a carefully made set and hearing your trap go off.

Sounds pretty quick too

Good thinkin

as per Aix method, you can also pinch the hood of trigger with pr of dike right above the jaw, if you get too tight grab with dikes bottom of trigger and wiggle and wrench it back and forth to gain some slop.....grinding down the dog notch will help in conjuction with the trigger pinch but be careful.....if you file dog make sure you debure/ round corners where youve "sharpened" the dog notch, as a sharp corner will make them real hard to fire at times.....I like a double dip on duke 160s as it kinda needs lubed really too...Ill even wax them at times, then do a little scraping to not be so hairy triggered.......if your ratten only with them, getting rid of one spring helps with less tension......and if buying brand new, and still shiney, powdercoating before rusty is about best start to a good trigger on a w
160

especially if theyve got any rust, then the diff between wet and dry will be more dramatic

Go to BASIC SETS forum and lower left for Pauls tuning-filing and also a nail/punch tapped...

Traprjohn Nailed IT....

I took everybody’s advice. Even waxed. Filing dogs and burning triggers now. This application should last a few years and made a big improvement. Thanks for the help

Pay attention long enough, and we'll make a real trapper outta ya someday nimzy

I certainly hope so. Someday