79 degrees and 36% humidity. 30 minutes dry on pump gas.Pictures to follow.

You just reminded me why I hate speed dip. LOL. Never was satisfied with it.

If I was smart enough to post pictures I would do the same thing cuz I just got done with all of mine. Speed dip black! Number three traps that I use for coyote Fox and cats, DPS. conibears, one and a 1/2 Coon traps.

I’ve said it before........the best ratio for speed dip is 1 qt of Speed dip directly into 1 33 gallon trash can

How well does the dip dry in December after a couple of catches have shined most of the first treatment off?

Mike

I will redip everything I did today in a couple 3 days, and then there are a couple of really rusty traps I might dip three or four times. Whole process only took me about an hour. Still using some of them Duke one-and-a-half coil springs that I bought over 12 years ago. Still have pretty decent strength in the springs and still seem to hold a lot of coon.

What about excess build up after countless dipping's?
NO dipping for me I've seen way to many dip disasters.

Guess this is why I haven't participated in the last few months. Back to lurking.

I'm only asking If there Is any excessive build up over time. I think that Is a fair question.

I like speed dip I just wish we could have 36% humidity in PA

This.

I don't think I've ever seen below 50% in Indiana. At least not when the temp is about 70*

Come on, you know the dip, dye, and wax argument is never ending. Just do you works for you, I do what works for me; right wrong , or otherwise.

this can be a problem. Especially if you're coyote trapping. But this is why I dip them in the spring. Keep the dip very thin. With plenty of gas. Rotate the traps after they're dipped in the Sun. And then I leave them out all summer and all fall in the sun rain wind. They stayed died and protected and the elements seem to eliminate most if not all of the smell. I really don't know if it's better than dying and waxing. But for a lazy person like me it is.

So when you get to the build up point your going to remove the dip and start over again.
Or do you remove the old dip each season and start over again?
Hey guys this a teaching forum let's teach.
I would never use dip but I will ask question for those that won't ask them.

After a couple of catches you don’t have to worry too much about build up. If you don’t catch anything you don’t need to dip it again. Pretty simple and easy, keep it thin and dip when hot and low humidity.

Number one,there is not any build up.Number 2, coons,skunks,possum,cats,etc. don't fight 220's like they would a foot trap so there is not any "rubbing off".Matter of fact,I only have to re-dip after 2 to 3 years.Been doing it for years.

I see the point on BGs. And It's 100% correct. So know we have to look at foot holds on the canine line.
I know this Is like beating a dead horse but what else do we have to do. LOL Opps I better not use the word Horse or that Horse Creek dude may bust my chops again. LOL

the more I dip the more I thin it..6 qts fuel to a quart od speed dip..conibears can be thinner than that

so you guys spend a lot of money on that trap dip. Have you ever thought about going down to the hardware store and buying that drive way seal or that foundation seal. It's dirt cheap and has to be the same stuff as what you buy In a can at the Trapping supply place.
Speed dip runs about $34.00 a gallon I bet you could buy 5 gallons of It at Home Depot for a lot less.

I trap where it is cold & wet. The only practical way to keep my coyote traps operational is SALT. I also don't have time to dip or boil traps. I just tumble them in a cement mixer and then wax. After a catch I always pull the trap and reset with a fresh trap. I do dip conibears, thinned cheap water based paint & tumble if they get rusty.

Cheaper when it is free. Wasn't talking foot traps either,those get dyed.

It works fine on k9 footholds too. It just dawned on me why some dislike speed dip. Trappers as a general rule like to prepare, plan, work hard and prepare some more almost to a fault. Speed dip us just way too easy to satisfy our need to over-do every aspect of our hobby.

Here's why I said do what works for you. My first two years I dipped in the rustolum/acetone dip and caught nothing. Just to change it up I switch to walnut dye and wax and started catching K9's every year since. Not saying it was the paint dip, but dye and wax caught me fur and that's what I do. To each his own. I enjoy the time spent dyeing and waxing, it's time spent with my kid and since there is no money in trapping LOL, I enjoy the traditional aspect of it. I do speed dip my BG traps and water traps, but land traps for K9's get walnut dipped and waxed. The internet is full of a " don't like what I don't like" mentality. Let's not let it come here.

Cummerbund or vest with that dip?

Can't seem to find speed dip in pink otherwise I'd go back to dip easily. Caught a lot of coyotes on dip mixed with unleaded.
Jim

Is that what turns people into lurkers?When not everyone agrees with them?
I hate that sticky crap.Dye and wax by far the best for all traps and snares.

The old wolfers didn't use a thing on their traps and did Ok.

I do the oil based Rust-Oleum/acetone dip on ALL my traps (2-3 coats, almost a water consistency) and then 2-3 coats of ZEP High Traffic Floor Polish on all traps except body grips. No problems catching critters for me. I use what works FOR ME. The gas dips scare me though....

Do you think the floor polish is the same as metal jacket?

I've never used FMJ, but I do believe they are very similar, if not the same thing. I get the floor polish from Home Depot for $16.00 a gallon. FMJ is $25.00 a gallon plus shipping.

Fifty years of trapping experience has taught me that waxing is best for footholds and paint is best to preserve body grips. These treatments are done mid summer and traps hung in a sheltered location until fall. I have tried all the various dips with disappointing results. Just my two cents.

No more like people that complain about a $10 magazine but spends more than that buying every trapping gadget,lure and bait to catch a handful of fur.I really don't care whom agrees with me but rather the ones that give opinions on things they don't know about.

they didn't trap in the east.

we get two days a year like that.

I've used Speed Dip on all my water and coon traps for years. I really like it. I have some traps I've dipped nearly ten times and I've never had a problem with build up. It goes on pretty thin and usually I have to dip / dry twice to try to get enough build up. The gas that is in the new dip wants to liquefy the old coating so you don't get layers built up by multiple treatments.

While dipped traps seem gummy and sticky during the summer, the Speed Dip coating seems plenty firm and not at all sticky by the time November temperatures come along. Speed Dip does a great job on my water traps - protects from rust better than anything I've ever tried - and it's quick and easy to apply.

I still dye and wax my coyote traps. Mainly because I don't have many coyote traps and I usually want to re-use the same trap again soon after a catch. It's easy to re-dye and wax a few traps in December and they are immediately ready to go back in the ground. I don't think a trap with new coat of Speed Dip in December would be ready to set again until the next year.

I love how Beav stirs this pot :-) then dips a way in secret. LMAO!


Mac

Yes it probably does. I have found over the years that the more folks are ignorant about the use of it the more they want to go along with a crowd that just wants to be relevant. I use speed dip on all my 1.5 coils as well as on my dog proofs. I use oil based Rustoleum on my body traps and wax and dye on my footholds for K9s. Proper use of equipment and treatment of equipment is a personal choice. Reading instructions don't always bring the same results from one place to the next. I dip all mine using six to one ratio of high grade non ethanol gas. I dip them when it is hot and muggy because that is how our summers are. I let them bake a while on a black tarp in the sun and then they go into barrels until fall when I need them. I do not believe I have ever had a refusal because of the dip. LLL

Here in farm country I've not seen where it would benefit me to dip/dye any of my footholds. I generally paint them early on in the summer, let them sit out for a couple weeks, and then hang them up. I've set them without any kind of treatment with no ill effects as well. Only reason I even mess with the rustoleum is just to try to increase the lifespan of the trap. I haven't found any evidence in the snow, or in last year's case of our perfect powdered dirt of coyote hesitation or avoidance of untreated traps.

We've got old equipment, bobwire fences, miles of old hot wire fences, and all kinds of rust rolling around our country. To each their own. Until I start seeing refusals or evidence they're avoiding my sets I don't intend to ever go back to dye/dip.

I've had farmers remark places I hit last year on my brief run where I caught multiple coyotes in locations that the first snow which was not long after I had been there, it had been years since they didn't see coyote tracks crossing the roads and running their pastures. Albeit I'm sure new coyotes have filtered in by now, but at the time I feel like I hit most coyotes on a number of locations. Greyhound hunters chattering that they didn't kick up coyotes for four to five miles of generally good coyote ground as I sat back and smiled knowing that about a week before they ran their dogs I'd been in those exact sections clearing out coyotes. I guess until it doesn't work anymore I will just stick to simple.

Un-speed dip or dipquickwaitlonDip.

I am a dye and wax guy but I think most methods will work if you use some common sense. I dye all of my traps and wax footholds. One thing I do different than some is that I clean dye and wax right after the season ends. I have square jaw conni 110s from the 70s that are still in great shape. I never intentionally rust traps when new just degrease dye and wax the footholds and dye connis. After a couple seasons all of them will dye coal black. I will admit that I have some bridger 110s that I got in a trade about 5 years ago that were dipped and have been used every year since without any retreatment or rust so I have been thinking about starting to dip all body grips.

Speed dip is the one trap treatment that I have yet to try. My main concern when treating traps is rust prevention. 6 or 7 years back I dyed a few 1.5's and then dyed and waxed the remainder of my 1.5's. These were water traps. The difference in rust buildup on the two sets of traps made it apparent that some sort of coating was essential to prevent rust. Some of those dyed and waxed 1.5,s are still good to go after several seasons of use and multiple catches on drowners. Of course not much will hold up to a live coon but the waxed traps still faired much better than the traps were just dyed, especially the springs. The traps that were just dyed had to be retreated after 1 season.

I have a couple dozen new 1.5's. I think I will speed dip half and wax half and see which set work best to prevent rust water trapping. Whichever way works best I will use on all my water footholds.

On bodygrips I have been using FormulaOne for 5 or 6 years. I like the green color that the dip dries to on those. It seems to help hide the outline of the trap better than a darker color. That comes in handy on public ground to hide the traps from people and it seems to cause less refusals than a dark black trap. I set a lot of dry or partially submerged bodygrips and I feel like having a more neutral color helps hide the trap from the animals. That may all be in my head but I am more confident with the green than the black.

Top pic is an MB 550 on left after Coyote cleaned it up and fresh dyed and waxed on right. Second pic is of a dipped Bridger on left and dyed victor square jaw on right. Only point of the pics is that all of these traps are several years old but still in great shape. So as long as what you are doing is catching critters and protecting your traps you're doing it right.

I speed dip BGs and DPs. Wax K9s without dip or dye. Never a problem. They’re bedded in dirt. What’s the point of coloring with dye?

I don't know where this post is supposed to go, but I've used Speed Dip in the past. What I found was that it dried best and faster using Coleman fuel rather than gasoline.

I'm a water trapper only. If I were trapping dry land, I don't think I would use Speed Dip because of concerns about scent. I would consider something like oak bark, sumac, logwood crystals, etc.

Been using speed dip for years on water and land traps. It’s very humid here on the island during the summer when I dip. Gallon of Coleman gas with half a can of Andy’s dip works great. I pressure wash used traps from the season before and redip. No build up . Very easy.

Exactly. Someone tell me why it is necessary to dip or die traps that will be covered.

No reason.

Larry said you shouldn't:
https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/5878099/1

I have 2 new cans of KBL dip in Brown for $20 + frt.

Ifn it ain't Stoe's, it ain't "Speed Dip".

I don't care for speed dip because of seeing too many traps that were either sticky, or stinky, usually both. I would have no problem with painting all my traps, but dye and wax works fine and isn't difficult at all. It's not even all that time consuming. Don't you have to get all the old dirt and junk off the trap before dipping anyway? Seems like you'd have to boil or something similar and boiling is the most time consuming part, waxing is quick and easy.

I dye mine in walnuts and wax. After a few years of use traps will begin to develop rust; the dye retards the rusting. It has nothing to do with color. Again to each his own.

The tannic acid in sumac, walnut hulls, leaves or logwood crystals, whatever you choose to use, causes a chemical reaction. Tannic acid, reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. ... The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating.

Dying is not about color....it is to convert rust to a stable compound that helps seal the surface and prevent further rust. Wax provides another barrier to prevent rust.

Well put QBD.

True, but dips/paints cover up the rust and let it grow undisturbed. "on a quiet night, you can hear it"

Rust prevention?

A dip that keeps oxygen from reacting with the metal prevents corrosion. Same with wax.

I just like to build a fire, pour in walnuts and enjoy the traditional smell of doing the job. I have waxed a many a one without the dye though.

Me to. Sometimes you just go to slow down and enjoy the simple traditional ways. The kids love to gather walnuts too.

Maybe tomorrow we can argue coke and pepsi or ford and chevy. And you better like what I do or I'll tell you your wrong

Wish I had a container big enough to dye my truck

When I used speed dip I used Coleman gas and mixed it pretty thin. It came off pretty easily by soaking less than a minute in CHEAP paint remover and “washing” with a stiff paintbrush. I could clean a trap a minute doing this. Then I dried them and re-dipped. It helps to do everything in July instead of waiting till October. The odor was gone in 2-days.

Now I wash new traps in hot water and Dawn. Rinse. Air-dry. Spray paint with flat black. Dry and dip in Full Metal Jacket. I’ve got better things to do than spend days dying, waxing and being traditional. In fact, using FMJ, all I really need to do is get rid of the factory oil before dipping. They’re going to be under dirt so color really doesn’t matter.

Worse thing you can use on a canine trap

Well since nobody has beat up on ol' Newt I will say I have had good success with his water based Formula 1 on water traps, both foot holds and body grips. I mix it thin, about 4:1, let it dry a couple days and dip again. I like the brown color and no matter what Newt says it leaves your trap a nice dark olive green. A little overnight soak in 50-50 vinegar and water loosens the mix and you can power wash it right off. I still dye and dip my K9 traps because it is fun, allows me to drink beer, wonder why wax is so expensive and fiddle around in general.

Zim

Its BROWN on snares
OD GREEN on traps.

I'm a snareman. SO its was named BROWN.

Thanks to everyone who uses my probuct.

Logwood and wax just to get into the season .. been seeing some literature that we should not be breathing logwood fumes .. respirators anyone?

I really love it on my bodygrips. The "brown" color that dries to an olive green is perfect.

the only reason I used speed dip was to dip the traps that were not going to be used for a while and put in storage. They will clean up when the time comes to use them again.

Rust continues under the coating

Tried stuff that was supposed to seal and stop rust years ago, rust continues to grow under it

I have used rust stop for 15 years haven't had any rust

Yeah I'll second this formula

wonder why Chevy never used that on trucks?

I have never used the stuff, always been a logwood dye guy, but gotta wonder how long it takes the gas smell to disapate to the
point that a canine can`t smell it? I have tried Dakota line dip on my water traps with good success, but that's a water
based dip.

Bought stuff Paul Harvey was bragging about on the radio, didn't work

i grew up canine trapping in the 70'-80's when logwood dye was king and a certain amount of mystery generally existed around trap handling. sometime around 1998-2000 when i was concentrating on trapping a little more after a break my partner convinced me that we should be using dip instead--i think it was after a long session of my moaning about all the time we just spent simmering traps in a barrel. we've generally used speed dip since then with pretty decent results. i've even re-dipped traps in the late fall and used them in winter without issue.

my partner still uses the dip however about 5 years ago i reverted back to my old ways. i ran into the issue of build up to the point that i could transfer a light tar like coating to my hands when setting. partner always said it was from not thinning enough and no doubt he was right. secondly, when i was setting alot in the winter, the dip seemed to provide lousy protection against what basically amounts to marinating traps in a salt brine. and even after i'd try to quickly brush the rust and re-dip the rust came right thru the dip. lastly, at least in my mind, things have changed in my part of the world over the last two decades. coyote population has stabilized and probably peaked but the number of people that want to catch coyotes has too and its pretty noticeable in areas. so i eventually stripped the dip from all of my gear, put into the dye and waxed like the old days. however i generally concentrate on waxing now rather than routinely dyeing. i'm starting to mess with painting some but not sure what i think of it yet

I LOVE Formula 1 trap dip!! Been using it for 8 years now! Caught over 200 coyotes a year for last 4 years in Alabama summer heat. Formula 1 can be beat!

Big blackbirds, I also don't use dye, just wax, I like idea of a coating like the extreme traps have

Powder coating powder coating powder coating.
Not that cheap paint on crap but the real stuff.

For you guys using dips why don't you go down to the hardware store and buy drive way sealer. Why pay twice as much for the same thing.

And most of those latex dips. The ones you thin with water are the same stuff you dip nets In to preserve them. They also make a petroleum based net dip.

Speed dip is a paint. Not a driveway sealer. It was a paint product that was used to mark steal beams at the steel mill. One-day someone. Stole a pail full and dipped some traps in it. The rest is history. Sometimes when a business is sold the product is no longer manufactured to its original standards.

Tractor Supply did sell a "fence paint" made by the plant that Speed Dip is and having the same SDS sheets.
There is also a roof coating that is nearly the same..

I've often thought speed dip would be a good coating on galvanized,cable stakes.I bought some to try but switched to stainless cable before I did.I tried waxing the galvanized cable stakes but it didn't help much,compared to non-waxed.

hmmmmm this sounds interesting for all those news ones i havent unpacked yet

Wow, I can't believe all the dips on here!

Not one of these dip sellers went out and hired a chemical Engineer to formulate trap dip. It was already on the market and just re named.
Petroleum based Is petroleum based some Is just processed to a different degree.

I store my (dipped) traps in a dry place. Like I mentioned earlier these traps are not being used and they are not rusting. I look at them quite often. When it comes time to use them they will get cleaned and painted. But for now they are in a dry place storage dipped years ago.

I have used it (speed dip) for a LONG time. I like it No Problems.

For me what works all the years I been at this is dye and wax foot holds and dip body grips in a rubber like mix with gas. it works for me. We all have our own way of things and this works for me and for rust for what I do for footholds I want some rust to have the dye to stick and then wax and no problems after.If the trap dose not catch anything.the trap is good till the next time I use it or next season. Same as the dip I use.

I think Newt did higher a chemical engineer to formulate Formula 1. I could be wrong, maybe he or someone else can set the record straight.


Taximan, I've speed dipped my galvanized cable stakes for years. Has worked well for me.

Sounds good,silkyplains.I never heard of anyone using but always thought it would be ideal for that.

[quote=The Beav]Powder coating powder coating powder coating.
Not that cheap paint on crap but the real stuff.

I don't know why this hasn't caught on more, it work pretty well.

I have some MB 550 cast jaw offset and some 550 rubber jaw that I had powder coated. They were done by a place that specialized in powder coating and they really looked nice. The rubber jaw were a pain as I had to take the rubber off and put it back on but other than that, it was a pretty painless process. I put my anchor chain on them and got the entire set up coated.

I have used them 3 or 4 seasons now and they have held up pretty well but rocks and coyote teeth have chipped the coating enough that I now run them through the dye pot to convert the rust spots.