I’ve been thinking for a while of switching over to cable extensions and those rod type little quick connects you just run through your loop and they turn sideways and don’t come out. Anyone use these regularly and have had any issues? I’m thinking of making up a hundred or so eight foot 3/32 cables and use them for mink sets. Cutting wire all the time is what I want to get away from.

The quite toggles work better for something like railroad plates and brake rotors. I like the sleep ez hooks better. Didnt like the quick toggles for hooking to extensions at all.

I use chain extintions and s hooks or j hooks I've used the toggles like Bob best makes but don't care for them as much! I too don't like cutting wire and like a more solid connection for otter!

Do you think if the cable ends were kind of on the small side, just big enough to push connect through, they’d be more dependable?

Switch to cable...You'll never use wire again.

The new snap hooks that Cumberlands sell have a roller on them to lock them closed. No tools required.

Why the need for a quick connect? I use the same system for all my traps, no matter what. A cable with a loop at each end, about six to seven feet long. One of the loops is big enough to pass a 330 through. The small loop goes through the trap eye, and the big loop through the small one to connect to the trap. Now the cable is fastened to the trap. If you are anchoring to a tree, as I often do, go around the tree with the cable, and pass the trap through the big loop.

Done, no connectors, and if a tree or Boulder is fifteen feet away, it takes seconds to join several together. The cables roll up very small also. Work good as snare extensions also. I do not swivel them, and end up throwing away five or so a year. I make them out of used 3/32 snares, so i am always replenishing my cable anchor supply, as my snares are eight feet long and only the end is destroyed after a catch so used snares get made into anchors.

I tried toggles and such on cable drowners for beaver but now I just make my drowners like really long cable extensions. It's a system that works for me, and no extra toggles, quick connects, etc are needed.

That is a great idea! Last year I started using the cable anchors in different lengths along with the spin buckles. Even with hand typing them as much as possible I still had several raccoons twist them open and almost get out. I may carry a cheap wrench with me this year to put a little bit of extra stuff on it.

I do the same with cables

You might think of go'n with Stainless Steel

3/32 is too small, 1/8 inch cable works the best for me, will never use the quick clips again

3/32 has worked fine for me so far. Had on brute of a beaver twist through half of the cable once, caught a bit off in the trap I guess.

So long as you are anchoring bodygrips the trap is supposed to do the killing in most situations, and never had one get through 3/32. If I made my snares out of 1/8" I would use that instead, but I use 3/32 for snares, so thats what my anchor cables get made of. I look at it this way. Even in the event of a bad snare catch, I have had maybe two times a snare has been chewed or twisted through and taken off. So if it works on 60-70 lb canines, it surely will work to anchor my fisher, coon, and beaver traps.

For fisher I dont want to touch the ground, a fence staple works fine to shorten the cable up, or I just wrap it a couple times around the tree.

I even use 3/32 for my drowners for beaver. I figure if I set it up wrong and the beaver gets all twisted, 1/8 just means I spent more on a now trashed cable.

I use quick links on my line. they have there place for me.

Me too. I can go from a rat pole, to a cable drowner to a rebar drowner or into the bin for storage/transport in seconds. All set up for the snap links.

I use them alot on my snares if the place is not torn up from a catch it is easy to just undo the quick link and put another snare in place and move on.