Eastwood44mag on another post had a trap that the pan tension went way up. I was going through my bridgers today and noticed that some had a solid aluminum pan bolt bushing and some had a split aluminum bushing. I had few that the tension was way high.
What I found was that the split bushing had seized to the pan bolt so when you rotated the pan the bushing was doing the same and had doubled up the surface/friction area. I replaced all my bushing with 3/8 copper tubing cut to size plenty of room for the bolt to rotate now. Heres a pick of the bushings
Justin

What would happen if you didn't use the bushing at all? Unfortunately I don't have one in front of me to look at, it looks like the purpose of the bushing is to allow you to tighten up the bolt to increase pan tension without bending anything, is that correct? I've always wondered what pan tension those traps have with a free falling pan before they are set, as any trap I've had that relied on a bolt and nut for pan tension was a real pain, and increased more the longer it was buried. Or am I not understanding correctly?

Neat fix. I believe that is called galvanic corrosion.

dmr, the tension was light enough to catch mink or a tweety bird. In that circumstance the strength of the springs controls the pan tension-strong springs hold up more than weaker ones.

That I understand, thank you. Nobody ever measures pan tension on those without having the bolt snugged up, was getting ready to order one to satisfy my own curiousity.

I've been using Montana traps lately that have a decent amount of pan tension without a bolt just because of the spring tension like you said. It seems to me to be a significant advantage to my style of trapping and way of thinking, plenty of tension to keep smaller critters from springing the trap, but no bolt to seize up or spend time adjusting. The Montana's also have the pivot point further out, which in my mind makes the live area inside the Jaws better. Still thinking about trying the Bridgers just to see if I'm missing anything?

They work fine without the bushing.My best guess is that bushings only there to keep from over tightening and warping the frame. I don't believe there aluminuim I think its a cheap pot metal. I used copper on the first few I fixed but they will do the same in time. dis similar metals and rust are the culprit! Mine the bolts seized in the bushing,losing bolt and bushing! So now when they get worked on I replace with a stainless nut and bolt. A .53 cent fix! DMR a free falling pan around 2 -2.5 lbs pan tension

Yep I think the spacer is just there to keep from bending frame ears. Tony with my pans loose my trap trip at around 1.5lbs. I have them set at around 2 2.5 theres just enough tension on the pan that it doesn't flop around. Mine are a mix of old and new 2 coiled and a fairly short nite latch
J

Thank you gentlemen, are those numbers waxed or unwaxed for the tension? I usually wax, then hit the dog/notch with a torch just long enough to melt off any excess.

Mine were un waxed when i was going through them
J

I believe the short nite latch is how your obtaining such a lite pan tension !After further studying that spacer also helps keep a steady pan tension. By only allowing a slight warp in the frame. illinideer i'd think a unwaxed trap would give you a slight increase in pan tension due to drag. My tension was after paint dipping and fmj