What tempature is the best for waxing traps? I have waxed alot in the past but I would like to have a target tempature to get the best results. I did some three days ago and the wax was 185-190 and that seemed to be ok.

I prefer the wax almost smoking hot,for sure hotter than the boiling point of water,especially when waxing snares so no moisture gets trapped within the strands.I leave my snares out for at least several seasons,that way they don't deteriorate from moisture trapped inside.
Probably don't need it that hot for traps,but the hotter the wax it seems you get a thinner coating.I also wax right after taking them out of the boiling logwood,so the traps/snares are at 212 or near so to begin with.That way you don't have to leave them in the wax so long to heat up before removing.
I only wax snares one time,and bodygrips every 2-3 years.

Well at 180-185 they seem to come out great but after 4 traps the wax cooled to 155-160 and the traps came out with to much wax so I needed to leave them in until the temperature came back up a little.

I see some putting the wax pot in a pot of water so not to scorch the wax. If thats the case could the wax get above 212?

No,I don't believe so.I think it would have to catch fire to scorch.

Should be over 212 to make sure the moisture comes out, and I try not to let it get much over 240. An IR thermometer from harbor freight makes this and making waxed dirt much easier.

I just did mine and used a kitchen thermometer , had to turn heat on and off to keep temp between 230* to 240*. No smoking and traps came out near perfect.

It's hard to know what the right answer is when there are so many right answers out there. The way I do it is to wax my traps as cool as I can. Meaning I don't like it smoking hot. I leave the traps in the wax until they become the same temperature the wax is and then I pull them out and drop in more. When wax gets hot it burns off ''the good stuff''. If you wax feels slimy add some rosin to it to bring it back to life and make it harder on the trap.

I use my fish cooker and bring it to a rolling boil, only takes a few second for the trap to get hot enough.

If the wax is less than ~220F there will likely be water trapped in nooks and crannies, if you don't mind that then what ever is, is; and in that case all answers are correct and participation awards to follow.
Because I feel that water leads to rust on steel, I want the wax to penetrate all places and coat the water free trap to keep it as water free as possible.
Boco has the right idea and kyron4 has the temperature nailed. The traps normally sizzle a bit and "bubbles" of steam rise up; the trap really needs to reach a temperature higher than 212F and stay at that temperature till all steam is gone, regardless of whether the wax is at 220F or 240F; however the hotter the wax the shorter the time needed to heat the trap. Flash points should be up around 390F so at 240 we are really only in danger of splash and spill burns. I have had my pot hot enough that it caught fire though-must have been ~400F? maybe- covered it, reduced the flame and continued to work traps.
If the wax "all" runs off the trap as the trap is pulled from the pot it got hot enough, but if any wax remains as drips or glaze it could have been hotter. I want a wet look not a candied look.

Yup, and let your traps dry in the sun first then ya don't have to get it so hot.... 140 is the meting point of the wax, why take the chance... Cooler is better! Even OG agrees with that LOL..

I did some #14s today at 220 and they came out very nice.

Thanks all.