Opinions please.

I doubt if there is any difference in catch potential. Mink commonly go through holes of 3-4 inches and the 120 has a jaw spread of 4 1/2 inches.

The reason I ask is because there is the chance of getting coons in the boxes too.

Up here there is a chance of fisher, coon, otter, weasel , mink, and even a muskrat. I have caught flying squirrels as well. I have added and am adding a second spring to every old 110 I have, to accommodate mink boxes and just late season mink trapping, mostly because I have 10 dozen of the 1970s vintage bodygrips, in modern and old square jawed traps and they need 2 springs to dispatch quickly. And it's working.

A 120 can be used in a slightly smaller box, which lends itself to taking up less space in the truck, boat, or sled.

I don't have coon up here but I catch large fisher in 120's and they are probably similar head size.

I have had limited success with any kind of trap In a mink box. But I never used a pan on the trap.
I know Bctomcat at use's them and that might be the answerer.

If you use boxes I would say your going to catch more coon than mink so I would go with the bigger jawspread.

I wouldnt waste time with mink boxes. You'll catch way more mink using blind sets/bottom edge and they take half the time/hassle to put in. Throw them mink boxes in the woodstove and you'll get a little return out of them. Just my opinion.

X2 and Pocket sets

The OP wasn't inquiring if the boxes were a good idea, just a question of the proper trap.

After ice up I'm thinkin' that pocket or blind set isn't going to work. That being said, I use all those sets, including boxes. Not so much the bottom edge, but I've tried it where applicable.

Neither. Dukes triggers are too stiff. If you use them file the triggers so a bulldozer doesn't have to run though them to trip them.

If you are not looking for coon, neither- use a 60. That half does make a difference. Smaller trap is more likely to get tripped. Even more so with a pan on that body grip. Imo it should be set within 6 inches of tracks. The are not pulled very far for a box.

If you want coons they fit much better in 155s than 120s. That half inch also makes a difference. IMO the CTM is the very best 155 out there. With a pan I even hammer weasels. If I am targeting ONLY coon I cut off the trigger at 1/4 inch, trigger on bottom, and bait in a tuna can from the ceiling of the box. No arm catches that way.

X2 on what trapper les said!!!

Use the Belisle 120 and you will handle the Coon, Fisher, & Mink and anything else that sticks it's head into them. The Belisle 120 is used by quite a few Canada trappers, along with another bodygrip trap made in Canada, that is hard to come by here in the US.

I would roll the dice with baited bodygrippers under the ice before using a mink box above ice.

I understand the OP but if a guy is buying traps for strictly catching mink in boxes with the occasional coon i think he should know boxes for mink have a very low catch rate compared to other sets so I wouldnt just be thinking of that when ordering traps. I'll take my chances on the ice with a blind set over your worthless coon boxes anyday.

They aren't coon boxes. I see you have a reading comprehension problem. There is help. Bud.

Mink boxes are deadly if you know how and where to set them.They catch tons of fur,not only mink.Plus they are quick to bait and set and are easily moved to accommodate changing conditions.
I picked up around 25 mink this fall in strictly boxes just as incidentals while trapping other fur.They also produced rats,marten,weasels and a bonus fox and a cat.I had around a dozen out for about 6 weeks.They go hand in hand when trapping fall beaver.
I use waxed 120's in my boxes.

The key is when and where that box gets used. I understand that the conditions in PA might not be conducive to successful box trapping, as the "dissers" are from that state. Here in MN they work fine after freeze up where I use them.