Why would you need to find an animals activity area if you're using bait and lure made by "experts" with bs claims like "calls animals in from miles"? Placing a trap in the general area has always been the objective, and locating that area has always been a problem for some, especially if they are already in a large structure or out in the field. In return bait & lure was supposed to do the trick and be the key to success regardless of cage size, brand and who was the legend in the trapping communities that made them, and imo..that is the problem. Folks focus too much on what is the best bait, base material, ingredient lists, how long to age their bait, glass or plastic, best ingredient for X while they continue to lose money and waste time. I've taken folks out on the adc line and asked them to tell me where they would set a trap and why, most of these folks were fur "trappers". Not many want to put the work that is needed into the process as a whole to increase their success rate because lets face it, nothing is guaranteed and from the many posts on trapping forums and techs/fur trappers I know in the field prove that theory to me. I've talked shop with many just to entertain them and it's always the same bs, you need this bait to whack and stack this brand of cage because xy and z. Boils down to folks who aren't experienced or have an idea on what they are doing are just being taken advantage of. They see catch photos of hundreds of critters in cages and taken on bait and run with it. Are they bought? Somebody ask a trapper who does well to use their photos to promote their product even if they didn't use that specific bait, lure or cage? Who knows, but it happens. There are hundreds of great bait out there that will take thousands of animals, but you need to put the work in like the folks who do it, the brand of cage won't fix the lack of ability to evaluate what will work best for you. OP wants a good trap for each animal that he could afford, did the OP type his price range? Plenty of good traps on the market that will make you money hand over fist if you have the volume. Those who've had traps come up missing or deliberately damaged which will eventually happen know it's a lot easier to spend $60 + shipping vs $200 to $300 a whack. I know it is for me, and again it's all preference but OP is already talking about a budget.

We own several hundred cages and catch a couple thousand animals each year. We like to give every cage a fair shot at proving their worth but I've never paid more than about $100 for a cage. Perhaps you can tell me where these $200 to $300 dollar cages for catching raccoon, woodchuck, and similar sized animals can be found. Since you don't use two door cages, you probably don't use positive sets much either. If you like to find out which bait and lure works best, try trapping a huge outside shed that contains every possible food source that any animal could possibly ever want. That was my challenge at a Fleet & Farm. I did end up catching over 100 animals in a 2 month period but I'm sure when all this snow melts, I can start all over again.

Guess you missed that part. I have no doubt that you trap thousands of critters, and don't care one bit....BUT...regarding challenges, I could relate. I trap farms with plenty of natural food sources along with an abundance of grain/feed scattered throughout the farms, some with torn bags and feed all over the ground. Still make the catches I need to make snow or no snow. No problems at all using the bait I use with the cages I run.. ^5 ...Brand of trap won't make a difference for what the op is trying to trap. jmo

Well, yes and no regarding the brand of trap not making a difference.

I don't think that the style of trap makes a difference. One can be successful with each.

I've seen and used cheap traps that will work great with skunks and chucks, but will get the door torn off with a raccoon.

These ones come to mind:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...t-catch-release-live-animal-traps-2-pack

The cheap traps tend to wear out faster and need constant adjustment. You can keep them going by constant fettling, but as you get busier, you have less time to deal with that.

Double door traps for skunks, chucks, positive sets for coon and squirrels too. Baitless trapping, when possible, which is a whole lot of the time, is unbeatable. Bait carries with it the element of chance, but with trials, blind sets, dig outs, posi-sets all the animal has to do is move, in or out. I used bait for years and single door traps too, finally went to double door traps and gave up the bulk of bait trapping. Have not used bait for a chuck in 10 years, got 142 last summer. You can use the double door trap in a trail, den and also with bait if you have to, multi-use. Though you can use a single door trap at a den, you will only catch one way, which is very limiting since there is no way to tell where the critter is, in or out. The many guys who have adopted these methods with double door traps would never go back.

There was a comment earlier about traps being stolen. It's a little off topic but I've taken to staking down cages with earth anchors in locations (front yards) that are likely to walk off. Also have replacement of lost/damaged equipment noted in the contract.

On topic- I'm primarily using Comstock cages. Smaller double door swing panels, 12x12 double door beaver size and comstock double door bifold traps.

Coverage for lost/damaged traps isn't off topic because it's part of the process in determining cost for the business and might play a significant role on the selection process for some regarding good traps, and should be in every contract. That's another can of worms if monies aren't received upfront or rolled into the price vs trying to get the customer to purchase a new trap after the fact which could be challenging.

I have a cable swaging tool. This year in some high traffic hunting zones I cabled my fisher boxes to trees (lynx exclusion devices are expensive). You just loose a couple inches of cable each time you do it. Wont stop vandals but it looks like the Comstocks can take some abuse. It's going to be hard for me to convince anyone around here to pay up if traps are stolen. Contract or no contract. Seems like Havahart is the only ones with a double door in the cheaper category but you can go on youtube and watch video after video of raccoons escaping from them.

How many escaped from the traps you use now? I've had customers that had friends and neighbors release animals that were trapped but told me they got out. Found that out by knocking on doors and asking tenants. When I run doubles I use havahart, and when some customers tossed them out because they couldn't get them to enter the cage, I scooped them up with their permission. When I ran into single door traps, I turned a few into oneway doors that worked well and used them on jobs to hold animals with no problems. I run a standard decent trap to me anyways, not the best but continues to make money by containing the animals on the jobs they are utilized on. I don't buy into the whole you need X trap at X length and any other bs that is said about how one needs to trap the animals your targeting, unless there is limited space and the application requires a smaller trap..not because the animal is said to not enter X trap. I like to show up and set the traps with confidence in them and my abilities to get the job done, and then follow up the following day for trap check, if the animal is waiting great, if not I set a cam up and go from there. Positive frame of mind tends to boost skill and other things, doubting your abilities and gear before you start is only setting yourself up to fail.
When it comes to coons, I find the medium sized energetic coons tend to do a little more work on the cages, but have no issues retrieving them from jobs.



Standard cages for skunks as well, unless I need a smaller cage due to the location and area regarding space. No issues with them entering larger traps either, jmo if you offer them something they want and interests them and they are in the area, they will enter. You will have a ton of responses from folks who use methods that work for them and not for others, all preference and lots think that because so n so uses it they need to as well...that is false. Like watching videos, seeing pictures like below and on numerous forums of "thousands" of animals that have been taken on the best bait and cages. Then you go and use the best bait and cage but nothing walks remotely close to it, but it's the best on the market.









Luckily this trap stuck around, but the animal didn't.



This trap was shot at and animal removed, land owner confirmed it by his trail cams.

TDHP- I meant staking down cages with earth anchors is a little off topic.

Trappers complain about footholds being stolen with or without an animal in them that range from $7 to $20 depending on where you buy from. If you are one of the lucky ones to have one of your expensive cages come with a pair of gofasters and decide to skedaddle on ya, you will wan't to figure in something to offset the cost, especially if you're already talking about traps that you can afford. Walking up to a job where someone has stolen ya cage does things to some people.

Mah man, I feel ya, but everything that pertains to the cage has a cost if you are in this for business. jmo

I hear ya. I think that it's going to be easier for me to try and figure in a percentage that accounts for trap wear as well as a certain amount of theft and vandalism rather than to try and get deposited or funds after the fact. I find most people just want a price that they are going to pay period without surprises. Obviously barring the unforeseen. Clearly a cheaper trap keeps the price down IF it can do the job. I do not doubt what you say in regards to traps but obviously there are two sides and people have strong opinions both ways. You have convinced me to try the Havahart though. For $60 delivered to my house I think that if nothing else I can make an informed decision.

TDHP- What happened to that trap? The one in the picture surrounded by pine boughs and oak leaves.
Is that vandalism/theft or an escape?

Someone didn't like the fact a trap was there.

People will always have opinions due to lobbying for friends who sell a product, business, and methods that work for them etc. Have to find something that works for you and that will satisfy your needs for the jobs you do. I only type that because you typed about something you could afford, something happens to the product you buy and you need to break the bank buying a new one before you build some cushion sounds counter productive to making money if you're adc'n. Flip side to that is, you need to spend money to make money..how much is up to you. Whatever you decide, good luck my friend!

Thanks TDHP! Now that I've filled in the gap in my animal traps I need to focus on catching some customers!!

I usually just read these posts and learn as my part time control work dose not even compare to most of you.
I didn't see anyone mention size of holes in the wire. When I first started, I used the traps I had on hand that had 1X1 wire. I quickly learned skunks and coon will pull everything they can reach inside the cage with this wire. I started using cages with 1/2X1 wire do to recommendations from this site. The customers are much happier if their yard, shingles, flowers, and other items are left in tact when you capture the animal in question. This is something to consider when deciding on a new cage. As far as traps I have been using wickencamp(?spelling) for my single doors and comstock double doors. Both of these traps were recommended to me years ago and are still holding up great.

The question at the top was about using one size cage trap for several animals. We carry 30 inch double door traps when we want to take 'coon, skunks, chucks, possum. If we are just trapping chucks and skunks we use 24 and mostly 18 inch double door cage traps. Using nose cones makes it a snap. If there is a question about the length I would err on the side of caution and use the next size up.