Ok here is the short hand, I started trapping in January with 6 Bridget #2 on some land a couple of friends of mine have. By the end of February (end of my season) I have two bobcats, a coyote, possum, and a coon. But I have had several of my sets tampered with, my bait stollen my backing destroyed where they were coming in from the back. One critter even took a dump in my dirt hole! I’m setting my pan 7-8 inches from the mouth of the hole and offset about 1-2 inches. What am I doing wrong? Thanks In advance for any comments.

Sounds like you've got ornery critters (par for the course). Set 2 or 3 traps per set, including one on the backside. It's all a numbers game, so the more you set, the better your odds.

I hope you get steered down the right path.

Sometimes an educated animal can make even the best trapper feel foolish.
As far as the coming in from the back/bait stolen issue, I have had success combating that with 2 options depending on set location (Woods/Fields) :

1. Make your dirt hole on a 90 degree angle, straight up and down and deep (>12") with a trap on both sides. I lean towards that with coyotes that can get shy with too much guiding. It allows them to work it however they feel comfortable. Add maybe a small rock or stick on the sides that do not have trap. I also use this if I am trapping an area that has swirling wind, like a deep hollow in the timber.

2. Put your dirthole at a steeper angle (Maybe 60-70 degrees) and also deep (>12") and use a larger backing that cannot be destroyed or moved (stump, large rock) and funnel them right into your pan with small objects (tufts of grass, thumbnail sized pebbles)

As far as the offset goes, I never really offset a trap from the dirthole, but I don't think offsetting creates a problem or opens the door for them the steal bait and not get caught. I have had small mammals pull my bait out the holes also, like chipmunks, not because they want it but because its in their way while digging.

It just part of the game it happens. I had a dirt hole set up before the season testing dunlap bait solution. It was in a mowed lane in my pasture with prairigrass as the backing about 2 foot high. Had coyote that would not approach it from the front he would sneak in from the backside and poke his head through the grass and try to poke his nose down the hole. Even after other coyotes worked it from the front I'd still get a video with him coming through the grass. And I had one this year leave me a calling card on a fresh set who knows why.

On my dirt hole sets I go about a foot deep if I can I want them stepping around trying to see/ get to the bait. On my dirtholes I make them with a 3 inch auger and others I use my stake driver and round it out some. Even on some of my flat sets I'll take my stake driver and punch a hole for lure under the backing but most of my flat sets I use the compass set no backing at all.


My trap placement is about the same as yours I'm just off center with the pan. Make sure your traps are bedded nice and solid 0 wobble and make sure everything is packed down good and tight around the jaws and levers. On my traps that do get dug at I feel that they seen something move or give when they stepped on the lever or jaws and for me and I think its coon that give me the most trouble
Even though I had the tall prairie grass for the test dirt hole I prefer a small backing on my sets about the height of a beer can. Even with my pipe dream sets the grass clump is just big enough to hide the pipe.

Pad Catch has a good point on guiding stay small my first couple of years of trapping I was laying out small branches trying to funnel them in had a lot that wouldn't commit. When I guide I will use a small twig poked in the ground that probably sticks straight up about 1/2 inch or a clod of dirt about the size of a marble
J

Solution is in the problem. The animals are telling where to put the trap at this set.

TS87, welcome. Trapping can get into your blood, enjoy the ride.
3 things I'd recommend to a new trapper:
*If you know of a successful local trapper, spend some time with them, learn all you can...…..but always be respectful in that if they show you where they trap......stay out of their ground/permission.....respect them.
*Read, read, read...…..there is a TON of info available on these trapping sites, check out the archives, insane amounts of information there.
*Lastly, there is also a ton of info available on youtube. Watch all the videos you can based on what you're wanting to target. You'll likely pick up a variety of tips from a variety of "authors". You'll develop a system you like and are comfortable with over time.

Good luck.

What are your guys theories on how the coyotes know where the front door of a set is and where the back door is? IMHO that some how through some sort of experience whether it b a wobbly trap bedding, excessive human odor, a missed catch or something similar that the coyote is aware that something bad is waiting for it. Therefore it approaches cautiously and can locate the proximity of the trap either through smell or feel of the ground and therefore works from the opposite side. For the long range approach I'd try to understand how the coyote was tipped off and modify future techniques to limit educating future animals. Also if educated animal presumably can locate trap location you will have your hands full trying to catch it. Just my simple theory.

Check out trapping radio

If I were guessing I'd say you need better backing. That my poor unexperienced opinion.

If a coyote was that worried, it wouldnt come within pissing distance of the set.

Ok, now what's your theory on how they know which is front and back of set since my theory doesn't work for you Sniper?

They dont know what is the front or the back. Just the way some coyotes work the sets.

Try a flat set....sometimes critters have seen dirt hole after dirt hole and a change up can be the ticket. Grass clump backing with a bit of urine and gland or curiosity lure only. Bed your trap so that it looks as natural to the surrounding ground as you can. Or a punch/mouse hole set. Just drive your rebar or stake driver and make 2 holes an inch wide about a foot from each other. Place you trap in between these two small holes, one lure n one, and another lure in the other. Compass set is another good change up. Search on the forum and get the description. Point being, try something different than the typical dirt hole...sounds like you may have some educated ones on your hands. Other than that, make your your trap is bedded solid and the critters aren't feeling any movement from the trap... good luck!

Thank you for sharing.

For smart coyotes .What works for me is the 2 hole set . They do not need to be big, have them 12" apart with different baits. and then 18" on center in front of the holes. like a triangle .Use a clump of dirt between the 2 holes with the lure and urine on the front face the trap. You can put grass or dog hair in the 2 holes over the bait just to make them work the holes.

How far are you from Wilcox County? HWY 5 close to PineHill and Cathrine? PM me . Im working a 10 day job on 4000 acres, starting tuesday. You are welcome to come ride along with me. You can set all the traps you want!

Well, the front of my set is where the trap is at and the back is where it isn’t. My dirt hole angles toward the trap. A coyote will have a hard time sticking a paw down the hole from the back of my set. If one does, it’s most likely about to stick it’s nose right on the pan. Meaning, one most likely won’t work one of my sets from the back. The side maybe.

Probably why I like Zaggers pipe set more and more.

STEEL TRAP just gave any beginner the offer of a lifetime! Me myself if I feel im dealing with a educated one I go natural scent posts and flat sets totally. Im growing very fond of step down trench and dirt hole sets! But they suck in rainy conditions! Unless you find a steep enough bank to keep them drained and operating

The briar patch side is the back and the path side is the front, or the down wind side is the front and the upwind side is the back.
I'll bet the trap can be anywhere from right against the hole to several feet from the hole and still catch if placed with some thought and guidance.

Some of that stuff will happen, but as you examine the conditions each time it happens, really look at the set and site and think about all the variables; you will learn to use the locations better.

But by all means get with Steeltraps.