My 7 year old daughter has her heart set on catching mink next season so I plan on giving it a shot I have some 110s but figured I better get some foot holds I was thinking Bridget number 11s but was hoping for some pointers from some more experienced trappers

1 1/2 coil is the mink trap of choice. Heavy enough to drown mink easily, but they drown pretty easy anyway. ANd can also be used on fox. Dukes are cheap and hold very well, but I sure love my bridger 1.5's.

hard to beat a 1 1/2 longspring for mink but unless on a drowning setup not great for coon most including me use 1 1/2 coils for Deans reasons

I am of the mind that the Bridger #1.5 coil is about as good as it gets for rats and mink.

My mink trap of choice is the 1.5 Longspring. Maybe because that’s what I started with? I do have some coils but my longs definitely get set first. Fall of 2018 I caught a nice male red fox in one of 1.5 longspring mink sets.

Same here,love the semi-flopper pan. I was going to try some of the MB 450 fox springs on mine to see if it would lighten up the tension a tad.

I have some wild river pans on my bridger 1.5s bigger heavier and you have to tighten them a little to keep them set

Duke 1 1/2 coil with a Wild River pan.

Me too, and I have a few Bridgers 1 1/2s, and I like them too, but ever once in a while, a coon might get out of the Bridger. I am not sure why. The Duke holds them.

is that in water les

yes, might be the sharper jaw. I'm not a coon trapper.

The old Victor No. 2 square jaw, while not good for much else is a very good mink and muskrat trap.

Zim

don't want to steal the mink post but might help them too ive used them for years on dryland coon with no issues and held coyotes but have heard that from water trappers and believe mtp made modifications to address it just cant figure why

Yes they are, and I have a few of them too. I have streamlined to the point of just one trap in the boat with fiberglass rods for stakes. The Duke is nice and light and I can get a lot of them in the boat.

Aftah freeze up..I use a mink boxes guarded by a 110 with a wooden pan.

120 waxed.

#2 double long springs are my top choice if setting footholds strictly for mink. Nice and heavy, good high grip and the bed very solid.

X2 on what Zim said!!! The old Victor #2 s.j. catch mink (and rats) more on the body. My first choice. Drown mink well. 110 Victor/duke are a must for a LOT of my mink sets!!! I also have used #1 1/2 coil spring (Victor, Blake& Lamb) and # 1 1/2 long spring ( Victor and B & L) with great success. I have used the # 1 l.s. (Victor and B & L) with success, but the bigger traps have more weight, so I went to them years ago. My go to trap for shallow water is the Blake and Lamb #1 Sure-Hold (I don't use the "delay pin". I take them off). For a "little" trap they are quite strong. IMO (They have held some very large coon and the stop loss arm keeps the coon in check) For some reason I just love this trap! A whole lot!!!

God bless and happy trails. Swampfox

My Top 3 Best Mink Traps

#1-#2 Victor Square Jaw

#2-#1.5 Duke Coilspring

#3-#110 Duke Conibear

Coilspring is definitely the trap of choice for mink trappers. Lots of old time mink trappers like the #2 because it so often get's both front feet and it takes the mink down underwater so quickly. They hardly go anywhere. I have caught a lot of mink in #110s too, they are great for trails along creek banks, slip banks, underwater edges, etc.

I like both # 1.5 regular coil and #2 Victor square jaw coils. Personally I prefer the smaller 1.5 coil. All of mine are older model Victor.

Same here. They both do the bulk of the work on my mink line. The B&L No.1 Surehold is also a great little trap, as has been previously noted. Just the same, I'll use No.1 and 1 1/2 Longsprings, as needed, if they fill the bill.

I also agree best mink trap I ever used. High catches and dead mink In shallow water. Put a wild river pan on that trap and you are good to go.

While a # 1 1/2 Duke Is a great trap your daughter will never be able to set that trap.

Any fairly fast trap with a sensitive pan, all the rest is opinion, lol. The problem is there are always other animals to consider, so I would go with something like a 1.5 double jaw, if buying new. The K.O.'s are nice if you can get em with normal springs.

I hear that

I want a big heavy trap that will get you high catches and be heavy enough to drown a mink In shallow water.

http://thebeav.us/Setlocationimages/minksetlocations.html

I go with 110 and #1 1/2 coil round jaws mainly because ,if you get coon in the trap, they can not work under the jaws to try to get out , like as easy as square jaw, unless the trap is double jaw. Because alot of times will get a coon in a mink set. also the #1 coil will work also. Have the user set the trap also and see how it will work for them. There is a place for a body trap and one for a foothold .Use both on the line .

Interesting. You setting these in the water? I would agree on a double long spring but a #11 victor has killed a lot more mink than a number 2. LLL

If you use a body trap - the 110 magnum BMI trap is tough to beat - especially if you wax it. The are pretty easy to put in a trail.

If your buying new, like others have said, go with Bridger 1 1/2s.

Your choice of the #11 is wise, the other recommendation would be the 1 1/2 coil, both in double jaw would be better. Racoon always seem to show up in mink sets and these two traps would be top notch for both. The 110 and 120 Coni's for body grips. My favorite mink trap, the Victor pinch pan double jaw 1 1/2 coil spring.

i would be surprised if that's true. Unless you are just referring to a #2 longspring. Some of the best longline minkers who have caught tens of thousands of them used #2 square jaw coilsprings.

About the only trap I wouldn't use is a #0 or #1. I like a little jaw spread or kill area, whatever you want to call it. Too big of a trap and you have trouble getting it fitted into some sets. I love double longs, but more often than not one spring always seems to get in the way of something making me work more getting it right where I want it.

I use a mixed bag of B&L 1 1/2 jumps and a bunch of old B&L and Victor 1 1/2 Longsprings.All still very strong and have no problem holding coon.All used on drowning set ups.

I like 120 conibears never missed a mink yet in one plus easy to stabilize I find the trouble with 110s is not enough killing power unless in a drowning situation and 150s give them a little room to squeeze by as for legholds probably sone of the best would be the old victor#2 square jaw and the dbl #11

For a leghold set a 1.5 coil, and body grip set a 120.

Garry-

i use victor #2 square jaw best trap for the job.

Bernie I was speaking of #2 long springs that ADC was using to catch all his mink. LLL

2x

LOL,,,that you know of.You would be surprised how many mink walk right through a conibear.

I used some #2 bridgers on rats one year. Held a mink just fine. You can move it to the field for coons, fox and coyote.

I have been putting Wild River pans on about every close jawed trap I have, to make them better water traps.

I've put them on about all my 1 1/2's and #11's. An 11 with the Wild River pan is my favorite water trap and will hold about anything.

Who makes wild river pan ? Where can see online ?

Google them. It's quick and easy.

A 1.5 coil is better than a no. 11 for mink, I would not be interested in 2 dbl , for practical trapping but I don't know lot, I use no. 11 on hard bed places mostly, on cement culverts , wired off to cement block, I used to have 2 victer coil square jaws , back 30 plus years ago for fox trapping, then got into 1.75, there to many coon around , to use 2 victer coils, Duke an BMI 1.5 coils is all I use for water trapping other than a few no.11 or 1 1/2 long springs with added chain for rats , I have a few sleepy creek 1.5 coils, not sure if considered a good trap ? Are Bridger in 1.5 coil a good coon or mink trap ? I google wild river trap pans, are they mostly for mink an not a good idea for coon? I thinking not good idea for coon

A great mink trap Has a LARGE pan and High Jaws. It has to be a compact trap so It's easy to place at the set.
You want high jaws so you get a high shoulder catch,. That way you can set any depth of water and not have to worry about losing that animal. If It doesn't drown It dies of stress, shock etc and It won't wring off.

I don't see where a #11 fits Into that category. It's true if you get that #11 on a critter It Isn't going to pull out. But If you don't drown that critter It could and will wring out.

I put the Wild River pans on all my Duke 1 1/2s, and set for rats. But I also raked up some trash sets (fake little rat hut) with rat carcass buried and caught plenty of coon and mink in them too.

Trouble is there coon around an no .2 coil is not good for them, wouldn't it be bad for coon, a big pan, an get more toe catches?

The Wild River pans don't cause any more toe catches on coon than a regular pan. I had the same concern before I installed them on all of my water traps. They worked just fine on coon and extra well on mink and rats.

Definitely have more coon gnawing with the #2. Tradeoffs.

I moved most of my bridger 1.75s to our water line the last couple years, and like the results. No problem holding big coon, set the pan tension and throw to very light and they grab mink that hit the pan, and we held front footed beaver and one odd coyote catch at pocket set in them.
A lot of #2 longs hit our water line too.
Most of my mink though have still came from blind #110 sets in trails and rat runs.
Jim

Here's my favorite mink trap to date. It's a Bridger #1 coilspring with a Duke #1 1/2 pan. Lightweight, tenacious, strong enough to hold a 'coon, and yet light enough a muskrat or mink can carry it down the drowner cable.



I don't want a trap so big it grabs 'em by the shoulders and drowns 'em right there in front of the pocket or wherever. Running a 3-4 day check on all water sets, that mink or 'rat in a big trap will be setting there exposed to the predators for several days before I get to it. That's asking for trouble.

What I want is a trap that's light enough to be taken down the drowner cable. Period. I do run DJ #11s but when I get into 'rat country I go to the modified Bridger #1 CS. That #11 is too bulky for mink and 'rats to move too far.

Compare the stock Bridger #1, modified pan Bridger #1, and a stock Duke #1 1/2 CS.



This is what works for me.

I use 1.5 coils. #11s are heavy enough to drown any mink in six inches of water. They do catch high and have very little tension on the pan. A sleepy creek double jaw is a good example. If you know anything about setting a pocket for mink you could not make the statement you did about bedding them. LLL

LLtrapper wrote:
If you know anything about setting a pocket for mink you could not make the statement you did about bedding them. LLL


Can you explain what you mean please? Always learning. Thanks

I'm not sure I understand that either. Bedding a trap no matter what type of trap It Is Is accomplished by the trapper. I can bed a #2 coil just as solid as a #11 It's all about technique.
And yes I will agree that a dbl Is a easy trap to bed but so are coils.

The two most important things about a mink trap IMO are a decent sized pan and an VERY light pan tension. The rest of the preference is determined by conditions and other species that may be encountered like coon.

But lets back up a bit the OP asked what Is the best MINK trap.

When I use to trap mink I wasn't to worried about catching any coon since I was running about 90% blind sets and with no bait or lure my coon catch was minimal. So the #2 coil was and still Is my go to mink trap. You have to remember back In the day you were averaging around $25.00 on mink you sure didn't want to deal with worthless coon.
I don't have the problems with eagle's and other predation Like the Muskrat does. So I never turn down sketchy set locations because of a lack of drowning water. If a mink or rat left sign I'm setting a trap.

Mink only? #2 Victor square jaw with the jaw tips out, Wild River pan, and about 4 foot of chain with a grapple or weight.

The thing is trapping anything on drags, if animals pull out you run into a lot of lost traps. It ain’t like pullouts on drowners or staked sets.

The big pan is fine but is truly not as necessary as where the very tip of whatever trap you are using is in the right spot. You can wrap a #11 around the edge of the pocket and be right where it needs to be. I catch an overwhelming amount of mink by the left front foot when I put my pan of my 1.5 coil that way. LLL

Is there any reason you run both 11s and 1.5s? Which one would you pick if you had to choose? Im not exactly sure what you mean by "wrapping an 11 around the edge of the pocket" or "putting the pan of my 1.5 that way".

Did not read all the replies, but I would like to mention one thing that may not seem like much, but I think it is important. For myself, when digging lots of pockets and running lots of traps, using the same trap at every set makes me faster and more efficient at making sets. The trap you use (#11 vs 1 1/2 coil for example) will or should dictate the size of the pocket you make. Standardized equipment will allow you to use your time on the trapline most effectively. Time saved putting sets in will allow you to set more traps.

Now that is interesting, why the left front foot? I use 1 1/2 coils, make a pocket the same size as the trap and stick it in the opening. I still get a lot of hind foot catches, and I usually have no bait or scent so I don't catch otter or coon.

I want to catch the mink before It even thinks about entering the pocket. I want to catch those mink that stand just outside the entrance but refuse to enter. It's all about the ones you miss not the ones you catch.
I may be a bit off but I'm thinking 50% or more mink never enter a pocket set. Keep that trap outside that entrance and set It so the mink will come in between the jaws. Most mink are traveling along the bank anyway. Place the loose jaw at the edge of pocket entrance. And place a guide stick right at the dog. This In theory will catch the mink when It's Investigating the pocket.

Thanks Beav, I am sure I miss some, I can see where a bigger trap would help setting that way, I still don't get the left foot catch.. One thing I have learned over the years is you have to have a lot of mink to catch a lot of mink.

Longest lines I ever ran were for mink in Michigan back in the late 70's and early 80's. Paid for college with nice prices on red fox and mink. Those were the days!
I still have boxes of 120's set with the MacKenzie wires and micro ferrules on the triggers. Doug M. used to play a video of a mink running through a 110 conibear 30+ times before it fired. Made a believer outta me and I put the wires on the 110's as upstate NY was discussing.
The world was setting pocket sets then and I found that not too many were trapping deep runs OR land trails. No coon to speak of with this system.
Your daughter will need setters for conis

Catching mink aint rocket science.I'm with line jumper-If you got a lot of mink you will catch a lot if you have the ethic.Same goes for all furbearers.

I don't understand this left foot either.

X2 what line jumper and Boco said...if they are there and I do my part, then I will catch mink. The BEST area I have ever seen for mink was Hamilton County, TN (I trapped the Northern part...north of Chattanooga). I would say it was about 50/50 for legholds and conibears. A WHOLE lot of mink (and other critters).

X2 what Mark June said about wires and ferrules for conibears. I believe they make a BIG difference in catching more mink


X2 what the beav said about catching mink "before" they get into the pocket set. I didn't want them messing the pocket up, if possible. Majority of time drowning wire rigged. Wanted them to see the "hole" and get interested and caught as soon as possible. I think them seeing the hole triggers their instinct to check it out. I have used lure and muskrat for pocket sets. Half a muskrat was more effective in my experience, UNTIL a mink was caught and sprayed the area up. This was the most ABSOLUTE best for mink at pockets!!! In my experience.
X2 what the beav said about "stepping sticks". I learned this trapping mink in TN. Watching them walk blind sets in creeks where I could see their tracks (mud) and not get caught. I believe properly placed sticks make a BIG difference in blind, pocket sets etc. when setting for mink with leghold traps.

I also believe in expanded pans, whether it is Wild River, Barker's (sorry been up all night) or the top from a tin can (done the right way). I believe that the "more" surface area (within reason) then the more it increases the catch. I believe they make a big difference and that reminds me I need 2 dozen Wild River pans for some new for me (used) traps.

I have caught mink in one of two ways: catching them in blind sets (them just doing their mink thing and all I do is set a trap and stepping stick, if not using a conibear) or bringing them to my traps (pockets sets and sometimes what I call a "fencing" blind set). Where I do my best to direct them to my trap and get caught. Wide areas they travel on edge of creeks/rivers and I will put sticks in ground with a "gap and a trap" ( sometimes 110s mostly legholds) AND stepping sticks on both sides when setting legholds.

Since the OP was talking mink, then I will say I still like the #2 Victor CS with expanded pan. I know what can happen with coon. Caught way more then I lost. Had it happen, however talking mink, it catchs them high and often times with both feet (at their shoulders). In shallow or deep they are drowned. Other areas still dead (where legal). My thoughts are it is high enough to kill them humanely and it does.

I would say (for mink) #2 Victor CS with expanded pans and 110 conibear with wire. In my experience, if they are there, then these are my choices. To me each trap is like a tool and if possible, then I want the correct tool for the job. Very important. I do understand the efficiency of standardized trapping. Did that down south. Very effective. I would catch myself saying I wish I had that trap, etc. I do things a little different now. I still believe each trap is a tool and I use them accordingly.

Thanks OP for the topic. Thanks to all who commented. I really like threads like this. It is appreciated.

P.S. I love trapping mink!!! It fires me up.

God bless and happy trails. Swampfox

I would listen to this guy when it comes to mink trapping.

I agree. LLL

OK I will try to unpack a few things for you beav. You say you want to catch the mink before it ever enters the pocket. Do you have any coon around? I do.

You said you want to catch the ones who do not enter the pocket. I am sure that there may be an out liar there but if a pocket is baited and is dug correctly the overwhelming majority will enter the pocket.

You say use a guide stick at the dog. If the trap is placed in the right sized pocket for the trap there is no need for or room for a "guide stick".

As far as a left front foot, well. I cannot explain why this is but I can only say it does when I set a trap to catch mink.

My pocket for mink has a pocket that will fit the trap. The dog will be on the right side with the levers turned counter clockwise making sure the levers pushed into the side of the pocket locking it in place. By doing this you expose the very tip of the pan which is the most sensitive to the foot of the mink. This is with a coil spring which I do use exclusively because I have a lot of coon here too.

A #11 can be used in the same way only you place one lever and the jaws of the trap in and turn slightly counter clock wise.

Again the left foot thing sounds funny but if you have caught many mink and you pay attention you know what I am talking about right Mike Kelly?

Catching mink is not rocket science. It is just a game of inches if that much.

I have said enough for now. LLL

Just wish they were worth more. The new brown possum. LLL

The selling point of the wild river pan isn't the increased kill zone, although it helps.

Beav, up here in God's country where it tends to freeze many nights, you will be putting Tha trap at least partially into the hole

I'm still standing by my outside the entrance placement. If the mink approaches my pocket It's going to step In the trap before It enters the pocket and I have It.

It's my experience If that hole doesn't go any where then there Is no reason for the mink to enter the hole.

The other thing I like to do Is dig my pocket above the water line. It all depends on the bank but about 2" to 3 " works for me. It Is easier to dig the pocket and a small bit of water fluctuation won't put your set out of operation. It also gives you set a bit more eye appeal.

There are tons of bank situations where you have a good location but the height of bank won't allow you to dig a pocket. Of coarse you can make a blind set but In most cases I just take my tile spade and wallow out a slot In the bank. Kind of like when your planting pine tree seedling's. Place you bait (half a rat carcass) In the slot and just kick It shut. I will guarantee that a mink will find this bait and work that set.

In this fur market I don't see why you would want to avoid catching coon when those coon are worth twice what a mink will bring.
My placement catches the mink whether It goes In the pocket or It doesn't But If your trap placement at the pocket Is catching mink then that's what you need to do.

So the won't enter a baited pocket set if the hole doesn't go anywhere, but it will guaranteed work a filled in slot? Isn't that the 'same difference'?

Not really since there Is no hole and the slot Is vertical not horizontal. And In some cases the bait will be exposed right at the edge of the bank and the mink can access It with out going In to a hole. It's right out In front of the mink.
And If that mink wants that bait he has to work for It and that gets It moving around giving you a better chance of It stepping on the pan. It also works great for as coon set.
It's fast easy and you don't have to get down on your knees to dig a hole In the bank.

By your comments I can tell you have never trapped in real coon country. I try not to catch mink until Thanksgiving and not after I have knocked down the coon a bit. Do you honestly think I pass on coon? A trap bedded in shallow enough water around here to catch a mink will be rumbled over, flipped, pulled over, well before a mink ever came by. You will miss way more mink on the outside of your pocket then I will the mink that do not enter a baited pocket with a trap placed properly (tight) in a pocket around here. Coon will still get arm caught and reach over the trap but that is a issue for another thread. LLL

LOl never trapped In real coon country.

uh oh

I guess we have gotten off the best mink trap post.

But as you can see there are at least 2 different trains of thought on the placement of the perfect mink trap. Now It's up to each trapper to try the different approaches and see what works for them.

Beav, to each there own, I set almost identical to LLL, you mention if a pocket dead ends, I dig my pockets so you can't see the end. I either bend the pocket around a corner or put a tuft of grass in. Also like 49er says, if you set in the pocket your set will be more freeze proof. Also I try to have my pocket facing south if possible to get that solar warming and ice melting. I am no pro or big numbers guy, but I have hit 100 when in better mink habitat. Also like I said most of my pockets are scent free to avoid otter and coon. I am sure I miss mink because of this but I avoid a whole laundry list of incidentals. Setting this way you are more at the mercy of the weather, high pressure nights usually suck, dips in the Barrometer is what you want.

To each his own. But you aren't fooling a mink that the pocket isn't a dead end.
So no bait and no lure right?

No bait or lure on most sets, some I will bait with fish or muskrat later and incidentals go up and not much different on mink, except more YOY males and females. But up here we don't have a lot of mink, the best is after the first mink then other mink need to investigate.

I want to know where ADC sets his #2 Long springs and how big of a pocket he uses. Which is it Jayme inside or out? LLL

Ttt

My favorite traps for mink are #2 victor square jaw with wild river pan for blind sets, No-Bs 1.5 with lighter springs for pocket sets and I like the 150 bridgers for bottom edge sets.

Ttt

This^^^^^

High jaws gets you a high hold. And heavy enough to drown In shallow water. And a large pan.

what wrong with no.2 springs on the no bs 1.5 why lighter springs I never have a problem with them Or any heavy pan tension ? kill pile of mink and coon every year with them

LL trapper definetely traps northern WI. Have set many a start of mink season and next day waters are frozen and stay that way. Frozen traps dont produce mink, justs mink tracks if a skiff of snow . Agee on the nbr 2 victor square jaw.

Like many trappers, the number 1 1/2 dbl coil has helped me take many mink over the years. Recently, the number 11 has been my preferred trap for guarding pockets and blind sets for mink. Those little traps bed easily and you can get that trap pan up tight against the bottom of a pocket set or any edge for blind sets. The 11 is an excellent coon trap when those incidentals get into your mink sets. The 11's will hold anything and everything that gets in them. Otter, beaver and even a few surprise coyotes have stayed put after getting caught in some of those mink sets.
When ice sets in I use collapsible wire cubbies guarded with a 120 and rigged with a wire loop on the trigger. Coons can be a problem with this set up if they are not holed up because of the cold. I absolutely love those collapsible wire cubbies! Trapping on top of the ice is so easy with this method. Doesn't matter if it's a frozen stream, ditch, river or muskrat marsh. They work! Tie off to something solid or use a gutter spike for anchoring this set up.
At one time I would chase those fuzzy tails across a couple states just to get my fix. Probably never made a dime on those trips but sure enjoyed myself.

There are lots of variables to be considered. If you are in an area where pocket sets work , you are going to want a foothold. In my area, you will catch ALOT more with snares and 160s in blind sets instead of a pocket.

I just read through all five pages before I realized it's an old thread, am glad Wolfy bumped it back up!

#2 Victor square jaw, #1 Duke coil, both doctored up. 110 Conibear, older strong square jaws. I normally don't set a mink trap on a waterway till after 3 to 4 days of hard heavy coon trapping. I then leapfrog the coon traps to the next watershed, while setting up for mink, I pull coon sets, the mink sets are maintained longer than coon sets.

1 1/2 coilspring trap or #1 stoploss in non drowning situations.

Cage or a well built colony…..

Cage you can let the females go

I see we have a lot of good mink trappers on here, My question is what the best lure & bait , either commercial or home made.

No lure just a chunk of fish like carp or there heads cut in half or any rough fish

If I and going to pick one of my traps just for mink it is the old Victor 1 1\2 coil with the square pinch pan.

My favorite mink trap.

#2 victor square jaw is the best mink trap ever made

gdccowboy: Using most all of the coilspring traps have very strong springs to set for a 7 year old young lady.

If you can find some older square jaw #2 Victors with weak springs that's good. Or soften the springs with a gas torch to get them softer.

Adding the wider pan is great. It won't take much to hold that mink if it can drown.

Shucks, I will make a number 4 double long work if its all I got. I just hate 1s and smaller because of the jawspread,