I don't use any swivels on a BG. I have 8' of cable on all my traps and I feel that this will give me all the swiveling action I need. I've caught a few beaver and otter over the years and It hasn't been a problem yet.

NC J. Heath,

Kill bars on a Conibear..... Where are they located and how do they work?

40 years ago I belonged to the Canadian Trappers Association, and with the membership was a great notebook they sent loaded with sets and trap mods for all the traps. In it were plans for a jig that you would clamp in your vice, along with one jaw of you 330. You would bend the jaw one way and the opposite jaw the other way, so they overlapped when closed.

Now this was 42 years ago, way before Belises were envisioned, but would this serve the same purpose of a kill bar?

I don't know if it's legal for me to post on this site (copyright), but if this is what you're looking for, I could email it to you.

Yes that would also work

I run cable on my 330 size traps. Cut off the chain and put 4 inches or so of good quality #2 chain through a spring eye and fasten it with a j hook and swivel. Run ya cable through the open end of the swivel and fasten with a ferrule. Cut the cable to desired length and put a snare swivel on the other end. You can the attach that to most anything for an anchor.

Zim

It is on Mr Heaths OTHER thread by the same title over in Trapper Talk.

not IME, and otter needs swivels close to the trap...if I add 1, it is in the first few inches of chain.

Why so much cable, Beav? I trap under the ice and I want to keep the animal on a short leash so it can't tangle itself up in a log I can't retrieve it from.

Well I'm a smart beaver trapper I don't trap through the Ice. LOL
With 8 feet of cable I can hook up just about anywhere.

Hard to argue with that.

I had a hard time finding water deep enough to put traps in yesterday. I scout my flowages prior to the season for just that reason but I was hitting muddy bottom with my chainsaw. See the curvature in the blocks of ice I cut out? Toward the clear end of the blocks, that's the bottom side of the ice. The only thing I can think of that would account for that is a run.

Good picture Posco

Thanks, Larry. I have a couple sets that have been soaking for a few days. I'll check them tomorrow and post up pics if I connect.

NC J Heath, The Sauvageau or " Savage " body grip trap has the striker bars made on it. They are Canadian built, and are the Cadillac of body grip traps, in my humble opinion. The next is the Belisle with the " Canadian bend ". Both traps close completely, have very strong springs, and tight rivets. Years ago I bought a dozen Montgomery 600 body grip traps that had the Canadian bend, and closed completely, the only American trap that came close to a Belisle. Unfortunately the 600 is not made any more, it was the size of a 280, and deadly on otter, and beaver. Unless you like to tinker, I would save up and buy a dozen of the Savage #440 standard body grips, they are 11"X 11" inside and are, as of this posting, roughly $ 350.00 a dozen or a little less, but well worth the investment. I plan to get some this Fall, I already have a dozen of the Belisle 280`s and really like them.

I add a swivel at the spring eye buy wrapping #2 chain thru the spring eye and attaching a universal swivel to both chain ends with a J hook from the swivel. Then 3 feet of the same chain to another universal for the anchor attachment. I killed a bunch with the 280 and 330 bridger mags that already have full jaw closer. Caught many rats and mink by the tail with full jaw closure . By all means adjust the trigger travel too. Makes a huge difference on all fur.

The beaver I pull out of my dukes are just as dead as the ones I pull from my victors on beaver management jobs. Never seen the need to do anything besides basic maintenance to them, only problem I have with them is that we can only use them through permits.

you can use 14 ga wire added to Duke safeties to make them stay in place like Belisle.. here's the pic you asked for,



DONT FORGET Pauls dog filing mod in the Basic Sets forum! (am I the only 1 who's gone there?)

thanks john that looks easy enough. I tried making a few from scratch that wasn't so easy

The wire took me a little bit to get right. The first few I did were so tight I couldn't slide the safety at all. Once I got the hang of it, they work great.
Traprjohn, I looked over that post and modified all my 160's already and am working on my 110's and 120's.