I have been trying to trap some rabbits for over a month now with cage traps. In this situation/area firearms, air rifle or any kind of projectile weapon cannot be used so trapping is my only option (otherwise I could have licked the problem a month ago). I have several cage traps, most of which are Havahart 1040's (large squirrel/rabbit size), and one that is a 1080 model (big enough for raccoons). I have set some as single door and some as double doors, and I set them wherever I see rabbits the most often. For bait I've tried everything under the sun it seems....various veggies, fruits (apples, cabbage, carrots, etc), and several kinds of commercial baits, including food-based baits and urine-based lure. I've moved my traps out in the open (no more than about 10 feet from the wood's edge, this is where I see the rabbits), up against the edge of the woods and areas in between. And all I end up with is empty traps (or non-target animals in them - I even caught a squirrel with the urine lure!) and the darned rabbits just sitting there not far from them. The lawn is kept mowed short (which I think would provide little of interest to a rabbit) but still the problem persists.
Here are some pics of how I have the traps set and where they are set. The white thing in two of the traps is a piece of white fake fur with the urine lure on it, which is what the directions on the lure said to do. I put the food baits on and around the trip pans and a little trailing out the of the traps. If anyone has any ideas as to what I am doing wrong please let me know. I'm open to any advice. Also, I do have some 110's and bucket sets but I'm not sure they would work any better than the cage traps. And I have a few small leg hold traps as well. Snares are illegal in my state so I can't use those.

try salt for bait

Rabbits are difficult to cage trap regardless. cages must be very clean, any odd odors will make things more difficult. hiding/blocking the cages into the hedge or in the brush will help. Salted apples might be a key bait.. Lots for them to eat there without going into the cage for something they are un-familiar with.

To add to what MT said, you want to make the rabbit cages like a dark cubby for them to go into. They dont like bare cages.

Make a brush pile over the cage.Rabbits naturally use openings in brush piles for cover.

I have good luck catching rabbits and packrats in my garden in coni boxes, using 110's. I put a trap in each end of the box. The box is 18' long, made of scrap lumber. I use salted apples or those rabbit salt lifesaver things as bait. Its game warden approved for rodents.......;)..............in Colorado.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkgsEROwKc0

What others said about covering to emulate a "hidey hole" or safe place. Covering bottom of cage with soil up to the treadle also gives the "its part of the scenery" effect. Everything eats rabbits so they're always looking for a place to hold up until danger passes. Keep your cages in line with the edges of the clearing. As stated they are highly attracted to salt.

blind trail sets using # 1s I catch plenty in blind sets for coons

carrots on the triggers of a #160

I had thought about putting down some salt (as of course all animals are attracted to it) but I haven't tried that yet. I will have to try camouflaging the traps as well, and the salted apples. Thanks to all who responded.

Do you live in the USA?
Never heard of a place where any type of projectile weapon can’t be used.

Nothing beats a good old wood box trap for rabbits preferably old barn wood . They avoid new wood boxes like they do cages .if you insist on using cages cover them well and sprinkle dirt on the floor lay somthing heavy on cage or box so it dosnt shake when rabbit enter