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GK's Trapping Experiences: Archive Gold #6556290
06/15/19 03:45 PM
06/15/19 03:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
My friend and First Mentor was always willing to help others by sharing his experiences from a lifetime of trapping. Unfortunately, he no longer comes around T-man, but that's another story.

There will be quite a few of these to come, but here's the first and second postings.


Snare Supports
October 19, 2011
You can have the best snare lock and correct size and type of snare cable for your desired furbearer,but if you do not have a proper support for your perfect snare combination,it will preform poorly,if at all.When a furbearer hits your snare loop,the only thing that should move is the snare lock as it drops and closes on your catch's neck,how your snare support preforms at this moment will insure the desired performance of your snare set-up.There are many ways to accomplish this,#9or#11 wire wrapped around a convenient tree,#9 wire welded to a rebar stake,which can also be used as an anchor for your snare,snare poles of different lengths with #9 wire welded to it to be used as an anchor and an aid to tangle-up and quick dispatch,you can just shove a length of #9 wire with a bend in the bottom into the ground for a decent support,you can wrap #11 or double a smaller gauge wire around the wire of a fence at a fence cross under to support your snare,or you can use my homemade snare supports I make out of the yard signs that are used by politicians and businesses.These supports are easy to make by cutting the cross pieces,leaving about an inch on opposite sides of each piece,you now have two identical pieces that you can bend the longer part of the cross piece down into a U-shape at the bottom,it should now look like a small letter h with a long side to the left,the top of which will be the end of your snare support,with the 1" tab on the top side.You can make a small U shaped bend on the end to rest your snare in after wrapping it or tying it to the support or you can leave it straight if your snares have a wire whammy or plastic tubing on them to secure them to your support,the wire is about the same size as #9 wire.The U-shape at the bottom makes a good,firm base and is easily shoved into rocky ground and prevents the support from rotating,when the animal hits the snare and I believe the slight bending and recoil by the support wire after the animal commits to the snare helps the closing action of the snare to seal the deal.They do not provide a suitable anchor,so you must anchor to a tree,a fence pole,use rebar stakes,ground anchors,or at times I will even use a drag,a larger log,fresh cut tree branch,or one of my 3/8" two prong metal drags,with something else wired to it for extra weight and the tangle up factor,when possible.Try some of these snare supports on your line this season and see if you do not find them to be a convenient,lightweight answer to your snare support problems,but do not forget the other ways,they are tried and true,but my wire sign supports are very convenient in places where there are no trees and fences to rig up a proper snare support.Good luck and here's to a snare that is tight and full.

Corners
October 8, 2011
I have mentioned in a previous post,that my favorite set in New Mexico is on the corner of a high fence and that it has been a very productive location the last two seasons I trapped there.There are also other corner locations that have been productive locations through the years,it is not just a coincidence,corners are hot locations,especially when combined with other geographical features to enhance their value as a trap location.To start with a corner is a type of crossroad,animal traffic moves in four different directions,one corner is just blocked off with a fence or different type of cover.A corner pole can make a great scent post set,every passing canine will stop to investigate and hopefully get caught while leaving its unique,individual scent for others to smell.With the addition of a dirt hole and flat set,it can be a good location to take a double on predators,as they travel.There are also corners that border open areas,where roads come into an open field or where an open field is surrounded by woods or the opposite when a patch of woods are surrounded by an open field,all of these types of corners are possible locations and should not be ignored.Even small corners where a bridge or culvert crosses a canal or river can be a very good location,look for these small corners.On crawfish and fish ponds, the corners in the ponds and on land are good locations.Most times drains are located in the corners of ponds and the otter,beaver,and nutria will use these corners as crossovers or fishing and feeding areas.The predators will access the ponds at the corners from the woody,brushy areas that surround the ponds,they like to leave scat and urine at the corners to notify other predators they are in the area,another good scent post location.The trails leading to the corners make excellent blind trail sets and snare locations,do not ignore them.When I see an old corner post in New Mexico,that is located next to a trail or dirt road,I know that I can make a scent post set there and take most coyotes that pass,it is just in their nature to mark that corner post,especially if a stranger has marked it before them.This season,when you are scouting,pay attention to all corners,large or small,wet or dry,open or wooded,one of them could become your favorite location to set and reward you with furbearers for years to come.Good luck and keep an eye open for corners.

Culverts
October 3, 2011
I have found that certain man made features are fur magnets for certain furbearers,but probably none hold more interest than culverts,of any shape or size.Large culverts that pass under a busy,paved roadway can be a major pinch point for animals such as coyotes,fox,and bobcat,especially if they are dry most of the time.Sets can be made to catch these predators on both sides of these larger culverts as they go back and forth,the trails that lead to them and the washes that flow through them make excellent locations for foothold or snare sets especially during the breeding season,when the males are looking for love.Do not overlook smaller culverts,predators hunt these for rabbits and rats that make their nests or take shelter there,out West cattle guards also are good locations,don't overlook them.These smaller culverts can also be set up as a cubby-bait station,animals travel the sides of roads looking for road kill or food thrown along the side of the road,be sure you check your regulations to see what is allowed in your particular state and always use common sense,out of sight is out of mind.These smaller culverts are excellent locations to take the smaller furbearers,mink and raccoon,they hunt and fish in and around these culverts as they go back and forth through them,as they travel.In the water,they are magnets for beaver,otter,and nutria,especially the drain complexes on crawfish and fish ponds.Beavers are continuously on a mission to plug up the drains and culverts and the otter will use them as visible landmarks and good fishing spots,as they enter and leave the ponds.There is always a crossing at a culvert or a drain,that should be double set and do not forget that some of the otter and beaver will swim through the larger culverts as well as leaving the water to cross on dry land,some do and some don't.I discovered this fact by double setting a large culvert once and also double setting the dry land crossover,I hit a triple on otters,be aware of this fact.Large or small,dry or wet,culverts are a fur magnet and a pinch point,do not ignore this fact,but be aware and be smart and make your sets out of sight and legal for the state you are trapping in.Good luck,this season.

Conibear Stabilizers
October 2, 2011
When I first got my first conibear traps ,I had no idea how to stabilize them,but I realized that I needed to make them stable and rigid for them to preform properly.At first,I simply found sticks and constructed an X on each side of the trap to keep it at my desired height and to make it sturdy.I did alright with this system,but it was time consuming and at times my traps were bulldozed by beaver,otter,and larger raccoons,I needed something better.I saw the lawn signs that the politicians and businesses place along the road sides as a possible solution.I take these wire frames and cut them in half on the long sides,I now have two pieces that look like two H's.For the 220's and 280's,I bend the tops to the inside at about 2" down and then I bend 1" back up.For the 330's,I bend the tops to the outside at the 2" mark and then bend 1" back up.I like to put my triggers on the bottom,so I will make a wide V bend centered on the bottom cross piece,to make sure the dog has enough room to fire.On my 110's,I cut the wire frames in half on the long sides as before and then I cut the cross pieces in half also.By doing this I will have 4 stabilizers,then I will bend the ends from the long sides up on both sides about 2 1/2'' from the single wire going down at the center,forming a U.I will then bend the two top ends down to the inside about 2" from the top and then bend them both back up about 1",there should be enough room to allow you to put your trigger on the bottom.I still use sticks to stabilize these conibear holders to insure they are sturdy,I just incorporate these sticks into my fencing to block the sides and top of the trap,they are not as strong as the welded commercial stabilizers,but they are cheap and easy to make yourself.I have gone to using the commercial welded stabilizers for my 330's,they are great in the water for beaver and otter,and they keep my snapped,empty traps to a minimum.I imagine the commercial stabilizers for the 220's and 280's work well also,but I still use my old home made ones from the sign frames.If you like to put your triggers on the bottom,make sure the particular brand of stabilizer you buy has enough room to allow your dog to function properly,some brands are built for the trigger on top only.There are also conibear brackets that are manufactured,that allow you to nail them to a tree or log for 110's and 220's,but most of these only allow triggers on the top.You can nail 4 double-headed nails to a log or tree and set your conibear on the outside of these nails,if they are up high enough,they will allow you to place the trigger on the bottom.You can also nail a piece of wood of the proper length and width to a tree or log and set your conibear with the jaws on the outside edges of the wood to hold your conibear in place,it does not hurt to place sticks on the outside of such set-ups to help stabilize and block down your traps.Always anchor your conibear traps well,they do not always kill animals in a timely manner and predators have been known to drag off conibear caught animals and devour them,you have been warned.Stabilizers allow you to place conibear traps in any position,horizontal,vertical,or any angle in between,what ever the set situation calls for,very convenient.Stabilizing your conibear traps is essential for them to preform properly,buy and learn to stabilize your traps with the commercial stabilizers or my homemade ones,but also learn to do it the old fashion way using only sticks,it will come in handy when a stabilizer breaks or gets lost in deep water and certain situations like rising and falling water levels at large culvert sets or diving log sets and deep underwater runs can call for a custom set-up that the commercial stabilizers will not work in,it pays to have an imagination and be creative.

Trap Anchoring
September 30, 2011
When I first started trapping with my Grandfather in the swamps of Southeast Louisiana,all we used was a fence staple or two nailed to a cypress log for our notched log sets or nailed to a tree at the edge of the swamp for our"ground sets".We were limited as to where and what types of sets we could construct.When I started to use rebar stakes a whole new world of options opened up for me as to my set locations and with the addition of extra swivels to my chain set up,I began to increase my catch numbers and my losses from pull-outs decreased,I was becoming a better,thinking trapper.At this time I learned how to make a drowning set for beaver and otter,with a rebar stake on the bank and a weight on the terminal end of my 1/8" 7x7 GAC,it was a deadly combination.I knew about drowning rods,but I have never used them,when you think about it,if you are going to carry a weight around,it would make sense to carry that weight as a drowning rod,just a word to the wise.Today,we have many options when it comes to the cable and chain ground anchors,I use the Berkshires because that is what I started out with,but the Pogo's are starting to appeal to me.I make mine with 1/8" 7x7 GAC about 18" long,some I make 15" long for New Mexico,the length will depend on the type of soil you have.They are easier to drive in the ground if you drive a pilot hole first,this will also tell you if a hole can be made at all,rocks or roots may be in the way.When you pull you can leave them in the ground for next year,you can retrieve them with a puller or by digging them out,or you can just cut the cable and make them truly disposable,do what suits you best.Some of these ground anchors require a special driver,so be sure to consider this when you choose your style of stake.In New Mexico,I use 8 foot 1/8" 7x7 GAC cable extensions with an adjustable loop on the terminal end on the majority of my traps.With these cable extensions,I have many options to anchor my trap.I can simply run my cable around a tree and pass my trap through the adjustable loop and snug my cable up.I can stretch my cable out and staple my adjustable loop to a nearby tree with a 2 1/2" fence staple.I can open up my adjustable loop and close it up around a log,old fence post,a fresh cut limb,or an old metal fence post and create a suitable drag,when I am not close to a suitable tree,I always tack a fence staple to the wooden drags for a little insurance.Then there are true drags,the fabricated metal ones,all shapes,sizes,and weights.I have about 100 of the two-prong 3/8" drags,but I only use these in certain situations that call for a special set-up,usually in rocky outcroppings or in the wide open,usually with an old fence post wired to the drag,for some extra weight and the extra tangle up factor.I have these drags set up with 8 foot of welded chain and sometimes I will use them to wrap around a nearby tree to secure a trap,especially if I think a bear or a mountain lion are in the area and I am using my MB 650's,though I have held a mountain lion with my cable extensions.Always try to anchor your set for the largest animal that you think is possible to be caught,if you want to have your catch and your trap there the next day,that includes snares and conibear traps,they do not always kill the catches.A beaver or an otter can create a lot of havoc in a snare or a conibear if things do not go as planned,anchor well for them and if using rebar always double stake for coyote.The more swivels you use in your trap chain set-up,the better your anchoring choice will work.When you think about it,after you make a good,high pad catch on the animal,everything then depends on your anchoring system,be sure to make the right choice for the animal you are targeting,be smart.

Bobcat Trapping in Louisiana
September 26, 2011
The first bobcat I ever saw was the St. Amant High School wildcat mascot,that was displayed in its' own trailer cage at the home football games,when I was a small child,I was very impressed.My Father shot one when we were camping in Livingston Parish,when I was a young boy,he mounted it and it was displayed at the local watering hole for 25 years until they tore the old bar down.The first time I trapped a bobcat was in the early 1980's,I had a dead bird that I put on the end of a log that ran out into the swamp,the bobcat walked down the log and fell to my #11 longspring set about halfway down the log,I also caught my first red fox in that same set.When I first started trapping crawfish ponds in the early 1990's,I caught bobcat in my 220 conibear traps set for coon in the trails on high ground.When I started to mark my traps with orange surveyor tape,I noticed my bobcat catch doubled in the conibear sets and I discovered that bobcats were very interested in attractors.Realizing that there was a good population of bobcats around the ponds,I started to make blind trail sets with my 1 1/2 coilspring traps on the trails that led away from the ponds,on the corners and on trails that crossed culverts,bridges,crossing logs,and beaver dams,I caught bobcats,coyotes,and fox.At this time,I began purchasing larger traps to get better catches on the bobcat and coyote and started to target them using nutria and beaver carcasses as bait,I staked the carcass down and would put two of the larger traps to insure the bobcat or coyote would be there the next day.Around this same time I started to use snares to catch coyotes on bait piles I would place in large briar patches,as they came and went on the trails,I snared my first bobcat in one of these snared trails.I continued to take bobcat in my 220 and 280 conibear traps on high ground and I started using five gallon baited buckets with a 220 conibear in the entrance to target bobcats,but I caught a lot of possums as the bait rotted.I very seldom made baited dirt holes or lured walk through sets,they were time consuming and the possums always seemed to find them first,I always picked up my bobcats in the 220 conibear coon sets set in the high ground trails.When I started going to New Mexico in 2005,I got serious about bobcat trapping and my education truly began.I bought six dozen MB 650 traps and learned to make the lured walk through set with an attractor,that is so popular with western trappers and they worked well.I also started making dirt hole,flat sets,and scent post sets for grey fox and coyote and I found out bobcats were also curious about and could be caught in these sets.I started to place snares in the washes for fox and coyote and discovered they were also excellent locations to take the traveling tomcats during the breeding season,January and February.When the weather got bad,I learned to make a freeze proof set and an exposed walk through set,by doing this and using snares,I was able to trap through some really nasty weather long after the local trappers had pulled their traps for the season,I had it all to myself.A couple of seasons later,I started using the electronic squeakers at my sets and I found them to work well on bobcats,especially the larger,bolder tomcats,when used at my lured walk through sets and set above my trap,when I placed them on the ground,I always caught coyotes before the bobcats.Now,when I trap bobcats in Louisiana or Mississippi,I use the same methods that work for me in New Mexico,a cat is a cat and as there are many ways to skin a cat,there are probably ten times as many ways to catch a bobcat,the ones I have mentioned here are but a few of them.

Beaver Trapping in Louisiana
September 27, 2011
First,I do not consider myself a true beaver trapper,but over the years I have caught my share of them and nutria while pursuing otter.When I first started trapping there were not many beaver in Ascension Parish,but my Grandfather and I would catch one in our "ground sets" around the mouths of sloughs coming off the swamps,mostly in #2 Victor longsprings when the water rose after a good rain.When I started trapping crawfish ponds,I became a beaver trapper to get permission to trap,they will get you trapping parcels faster than coyotes.On the ponds,I always targeted them around the drains,they are forever trying to dam them up and the drains are also a good spot to take an otter.I would also target crossovers on the levees that surrounded their lodges,they would travel nightly cutting the willows that surround the ponds.Conibears,mostly 330's,have always been my trap of choice for beaver,but as they got wise to my 330's in the water,I learned to make castor mounds and take them with large longspring traps on a 1/8" 7x7 GAC drowner.When I bought my first #5 Bridger long spring traps and my first MB 750 traps,I thought I had died and gone to heaven,my beaver losses in legholds went to almost zero and they caught otter well ,too.I always use some type of a heavy weight at the end of my drowners,railroad tie plates,window weights,concrete blocks,or a sack of some type filled with dirt.I have at times used a stake at the terminal end or a stout pole stake driven down in deep water with the end of my drowning cable attached at the lower end,I have never used drowning rods but they are very efficient,too.I will also use snares,but the beaver do not always succumb to them unless they are rigged up on a drowner and even then things do not always go as planned.A beaver in a snare should be anchored very low next to the ground,they will cut down everything they can reach before you arrive to dispatch them,you have been forewarned.Beavers can also be taken at dam breaks or crossings and I break the dams and catch them with both conibears and legholds on drowners at the dams.The drainages below the dam should not be overlooked,beaver and otter both will swim below the dams and a narrowed drainage can be a perfect spot for a 330 connibear.Another favorite set I like is a 330 conibear set under water below a log that crosses a channel,I will block it down and force the beaver to dive through my submerged 330 conibear.I like to see beaver,otter will always be around beaver especially in the creeks and bayous that they dam up to create new wildlife friendly habitat,everything will use the beaver dams as bridges,beavers create great fur trapping locations.

Between the Jaws
September 25, 2011
When setting a foothold trap,a trapper should always try to place his trap in a position so that the animal will step between the jaws and not over the jaws.When you stop and think for a minute,it is common sense to do so to insure the best possible catch on the animal,a deep high pad catch.Ideally the animal will be stepping over the jaw hinges,but nothing is perfect in trapping and the animal does not always approach and work a set as we desire,but by being conscious of this fact you will achieve a more consistent,desired foot pad catch,in the water or on dry land.If you will look at your traps,you will notice that most of your larger beaver foothold traps are longer than they are wide,so going by the shape of a beaver's back foot,it is only logical to set your trap with the jaws to the sides,so that the beaver is stepping between them.The same principle holds true for your land traps,most of the larger predator traps are longer than they are wide and the trap should be placed in the same manner.When an animal steps over the jaws,there is always the possibility the jaws rising up or the dog being flipped up by the jaws may throw the foot up slightly causing a toe catch or even throwing it completely out causing a miss.I think the smaller the trap and the animal,the better the chance of this happening,so be aware of this fact when setting any trap,large or small.These types of things all add up to increase your catch percentage and your fur check at the end of the year,but don't lose sleep over it,it is not a perfect world and animals do not always behave as we think they should.Be aware of the position of your trap and the direction you expect the animal to approach your set from,then make your set accordingly so that it will step between and not over your jaws,good luck.

Otter Trapping in Louisiana
September 21, 2011
When I first started trapping I only took otter when the water rose in the swamps,after a good rain followed by a cold front,in my notched out log sets I had made for mink and coon,it seemed they always got caught on the larger cypress logs that were in the small sloughs leading off from the swamps.I had no conibear traps at that time and most were caught in my Grandfather's old #11 Victor long springs,but I learned to set #2 Victor long springs on the larger cypress logs trying to target them when the water rose next time,I wanted a larger trap for a better,higher pad catch.When I started seriously trapping crawfish ponds,both rice fields and wooded ponds around St. Martinville,I first began using conibear traps,mostly 220's in the trails and crossovers,around the drains were always hot spots.I never used the 330's in the water until I trapped a crawfish pond in Brusly,the owner had four of them and I saw they were quite efficient taking them in the water as they swam unaware,they also worked well on beaver and nutria,which had to be thinned out to get at the otter.After a few years,the resident otter population got wise to my conibear sets and I was forced to get more creative by disguising my sets in deep,worn out runs,overgrown,brushy trails and crossovers,narrowed down drainage ditches and sloughs,beaver dam crossovers,the narrow drainages below the beaver dams,and around the drains,trying to make my conibears appear to be part or an extension of the drain itself,I find they are attracted to such features even the docks or duck blinds and decoys.It was at this time I started to buy and use the larger foothold traps,MB 750,Bridger#5 longspring,and Victor #3 and#4 longspring,on 1/8" 7x7 cable drowners for these wiser,educated otter.I always set on sign and it did not take me long to double set the spots that caught an otter,now I set at least two sets any where I find otter scat and I will make three or four sets,if I think the location calls for it,I know they travel in family groups and I have taken three otters in one location quite a few times.I have made baited dirt hole sets for otter in crossover locations,but they are not my favorite set,an otter on land will test your trap and staking set-up,and will leave quite a mess at that location,but they will work,as will elevated baited pocket sets on the edge of a river or bayou with a larger trap on a drowner set-up,a much better set to me.I like small sloughs or drainage ditches that drain into a larger canal or bayou,I will narrow them down and make double sets with 280 or 330 conibears,two in a row or side by side with something blocking the middle of the slough,forcing them to go left or right,no drainage is too small for an otter.One of my favorite sets is a 330 conibear out about three foot from a worn crossover,submerged over halfway and brushed up a bit to disguise my trap,I feel they tend to feel safe in the water and let down their guard a bit when they are swimming.I have not pursued otter the last few years,but I have caught my share over the years and I am sure I will catch a few more before I call it quits,they are truly a fascinating animal,especially when their pelts are at a premium.

Mink Trapping in Louisiana
September 23, 2011
My Grandfather's bread and butter mink set was his notched log set in the swamp with a #11 Victor longspring,it took thousands of mink for him through the years,the old people had an expression here when it got really cold at night they would say,"The mink will be walking the log tonight".His "ground set",which was a #11 Victor placed next to a large cypress tree or a hollow tupelo gum,also took its' share of mink and coon as they fished around the base of these trees.He would also set traps at the openings of large,hollow oak and maple trees along the edge of the swamp which also took mink that investigated these holes.I never really understood much about mink until one time early in the morning while I was in my wood duck blind and a buck mink came by,I learned more about mink in those five minutes watching him fiddle about back and forth,investigating every nook and cranny along the edge of the swamp,than I had learned from just trapping them,seeing was believing,and I started to make more sets along the water's edge,narrowing the trail down and forcing the traveling mink into by concealed trap.When I started to trap the crawfish ponds,I discovered the 110 conibear and used this knowledge of their traveling the water's edge to increase my mink catch.I also discovered that at times the mink will run the high bank trails and by looking for these little rat-size tunnels I again increased my mink catch.I have taken mink in 330 conbears when they are swimming and I catch large buck mink in my 220 conibears set for coon and otter on dry land,but my 110 and 120 conibears are my mink trap of choice,they produce mink in numbers and are quick and easy to set in blind trail set-ups.I have even adapted them to my Grandfather's log set by driving four double-headed nails in a log and setting my 110 with the bottom jaws on the outside of the nails to take any mink that travels down that log,if my Grandfather had used these traps,he would have been a rich man long ago.Mink are very special to me because of the memories of catching them and skinning and stretching them with my Grandfather,I laugh when I accidentally nick the musk glands on a mink just like he would do every once in a while when he got older.It is funny the things we remember from long ago that come back to bring us joy as we age,I guess I'm just a sentimental hopeless romantic at heart,the fate of an old trapper,beware

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556293
06/15/19 03:49 PM
06/15/19 03:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Raccoon Trapping in Louisiana
September 22, 2011
I learned to trap raccoon from my Grandfather,who believed in #11 Victor longspring traps set in a notched log set and covered with a little Spanish moss in the swamps.His back-up set was a "ground set" which was a #11 set in the water around the larger cypress trees and hollow tupelo gum trees along the edge of the swamps,where the coon would fish for crawfish and frogs.These were two very productive sets in the swamps,but when I started trapping the crawfish ponds in St. Martin Parish,I had to develop other sets to be successful.Being a blind trail set student of my Grandfather's,I quickly adopted his "ground set" to the many trails around the ponds,where the coons entered and left the water and I did well.Being a thinking man,I soon realized that my 220 conibear traps I was using for otter could also be used for coon in the trails on dry land and my catch numbers grew the more 220 conibears I utilized.I then tried snaring coons but the results were less than desired,but I did snare a few when I tried and found it was not a method I would recommend for production.I have never used the dog-proof traps on my line,but if I were to go back to long lining for coon,they would be a welcome addition to my coon trapping arsenal,they would pay for themselves very quickly and offset their initial expense.Raccoon are a very good species of furbearer to target on your line,the pelts always have some value as does the meat here in Louisiana and most times they are plentiful and can be trapped in large numbers in certain areas and situations, wooded swamps,crawfish ponds,cornfields,and deer feeders come to mind as such places.If you are just starting out trapping,raccoon is the species to target,you can be successful,especially with the dog-proof traps and 220 conibears and cover your expenses with the sale of the meat and green hides.

History of Mink Trapping in Louisiana
September 22, 2011
My Grandfather taught me to trap mink about fifty years ago in White Cypress Swamp,across the road from where I now live.He used a notched out trap bed on a long cypress log lying on the edge of the swamp and a #11 Victor longspring covered with a little Spanish moss was his trap of choice.For about forty years he and Cousin Corn Templet had a trapping lease in the Lutcher-Moore Swamp southeast of Gonzales in St. James Parish,a parish which led all counties in North America in wild mink production for many years in the first half of twentieth century,as Louisiana led all states in wild fur production.Mink and raccoon paid well in the Roaring 20's and well into the 30's and 40's,he once quit a job at Standard Oil to trap,he made twice the money trapping as he did working there in a year.They also hunted mink with dogs and every trapper had a mink dog or two,I can remember a few mink dogs were still around in the 50's and the old trappers were still using them.The trappers trapped the leases on percentage,the land company had an agent,who would patrol the leases and make sure the land company was paid its' tribute in stretched and dried pelts.Old man Fred Richardson told me they used to walk miles down the railroad tracks in to the trapper's camps and haul mink hides out under the cover of darkness to lower the count and the amount of percentage paid.My Grandfather's trapping camp was an old boxcar from the logging days,when the big cypress trees were cut after the Civil War.There was an old Norwegian man named "Lap",who lived there and there were mandarin orange trees there that always had fruit.The camp also doubled as a deer camp and I can remember we had to cross the canal in a boat to get there and there were always a few deer hanging after the hunters had made their morning drive through the swamp with the deer dogs,it was an extended family affair and I cherish those early memories now that I am getting older.I realize now that I was truly blessed to have had the experiences I had as a child and that the reason I am a trapper is rooted deep in my heart and soul and has played a large part in who I am as a human being.I am forever grateful to my Grandfather,who set me on this path a long time ago,and I can only hope that we,as trappers,will also inspire other young trappers to follow this path which has been traveled by so many trappers in the past,before us.

Rule #2
September 18, 2011
Everyone knows Rule#1 is location,location,location,but did you know Rule #2 is to bed your trap correctly,which means to dig your bed and bed it in a manner that there is no movement to alert a furbearer that something is not quite right underfoot.I always try to visualize my set before I start to dig my trap bed,then I dig my trap bed first to make sure I can dig an appropriate bed for the size trap I intend to use and that there are no roots,rocks,or other objects under the ground to prevent me from digging my desired trap bed.I always dig my trap bed first,then I will construct my set around my well bedded trap,dig my dirt hole,set up my scent post,make my flat set,block down my blind trail set or my exposed trail set,or construct my walk through bobcat set,they all must have a trap that is bedded as rock solid as possible.I try to dig a bowl that is about the size of my trap and pound an area out for my levers on opposite sides of the bowl.I place my dirt in my sifter to sift back into the bottom of my bed,if I do not like that dirt because it is too muddy or sandy,I will toss it a ways from my trap and try to find dry dirt or use peat moss if I am making my freeze proof set.Set your trap and level your pan.After placing my pan cover on or placing poly-fil under my pan,I will place my trap into my bowl and slightly twist it back and forth to bed the trap into the dirt or peat moss beneath the trap.Next I will pack dirt or peat moss around the outside of my jaws and place a stick under my loose jaw,if my trap has one.I will then press on my trap jaws and levers to make sure it is solid in the bed if not I will shore it up as needed until I am satisfied.There are times the conditions make it difficult to bed a trap solidly,especially with peat moss and I will power bed my trap using larger common nails with the heads cut off,I place one on each side of the cross frame contacting the outside of jaw and two on the outside of the opposite jaw.After checking my trap again to be sure it is solid I will sift my good dirt or peat moss over my now solid trap trying to make sure there is a slight depression over my pan to create a sweet spot for the animal's foot,if I use peat moss I will sometimes sift a little loose dirt over the peat moss to blend my trap bed in with the rest of the area and prevent the peat moss from blowing away,but in extremely harsh winter conditions I will not cover the peat moss.If I wanted a well blended flat set,urine post set,or trail set,I would now sift some of the local ground duff over my dirt or peat moss to conceal my well bedded trap.I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to have a solid,well bedded trap,practice before season and learn to dig and bed your trap well,it will reduce your learning curve by years and you can avoid the heart ache and grief many other trappers have learned the hard way by finding empty snapped traps that failed to connect due to faulty bedding.You could get a jump start by scouting your line before season and pre-digging your beds and practicing bedding your traps on your line in real time conditions.Learning can be fun and rewarding,so get out and scout and practice bedding your traps,the more you do it the faster and better you get.

Roads as Rivers
September 19, 2011
I have found in my years of trapping that sometimes animals will draw a line in their territories at certain physical features,rivers,long fences which separate wooded areas from large open areas,power lines,pipeline right-of-ways,certain continuous rocky features as mesas or canyon walls,and paved roads,the bigger the road and right-of-way the more reluctant they are to cross them.Interstate highways are the first to come to mind,but out West I have found bobcats,most times females,will draw the line at two lane black top roads which act as much a barrier to them as rivers do here in Louisiana.I have found evidence to prove this fact in the snow,where they will walk down a dirt road or trail to the paved road and reverse their direction or they will turn left or right and travel parallel to the paved road along the inside the fence line,never crossing the paved road and going to the other side.You can use this information to your advantage by setting both sides of the paved roads and have a chance of catching both of the animals,that draw their territory boundaries on opposite sides of the paved roads.Here in Louisiana,it would also apply to both sides of interstate highways,power lines,pipeline right-of-ways,and rivers and bayous.Be aware of this fact and always try to set both sides of these type features,and don't pass up large under the road culverts,obvious road crossings,bridges,or beaver dam and fallen log crossings on creeks and bayous for the bobcats or fox that do not draw the line at such features,the males come to mind in these situations,some do and some don't.



Pan Covers
September 17, 2011
Pan covers are used to cover the pan of a land set trap,most times,to prevent dirt,sticks,rocks,or whatever you sift over your trap from getting under your pan and prevent it from firing.There are many things a trapper may use for pan covers,wax paper,coffee filters,toilet paper,metal screen,fiberglass screen,and the old time trappers would some times use large leaves.Sometimes out West,I will completely wrap my traps in wax paper or plastic wrap(Saran Wrap) when conditions get really bad,while some trappers will enclose their traps in large sandwich bags.Some trappers will not use a pan cover,but will put foam rubber,poly-fil,or even moss or leaves under the pan to prevent anything else from getting under the pan.In perfect conditions,a well tuned trap may not need a pan cover,if you sift dirt over it very carefully,I sometimes do this with peat moss if the weather conditions are ideal,but the weather always changes eventually and I am forced to go back to my freeze-proof set.If you are land trapping this season try one of these types of pan covers and see which ones work best on your trap line,there is nothing more frustrating than seeing a track on your pan and discovering it did not fire because something was under the pan.

Urine
September 17, 2011
Urine is a valuable attractant for most furbearers and I believe all animals are interested in it whether it comes from the same species or if it comes from a different species.I like to use it at most all my land sets no matter what the target animal may be,I try to use my target animals urine at a set,but if I don't have any left,I use whatever urine I have,but only a small amount.I use it at all my scent post sets,sometimes with a dropping or gland lure of my target animal,but it can be used alone to take a suspicious animal,who may be set-shy or set-wise.I like to collect urine from the animals I catch,especially during breeding season from in-season females,it can be worth its' weight in gold.Some trappers will put small zip ties on the genitals of catches to prevent it from leaking out during transport home,I only do it for bobcats out West.Some lure makers offer urine for sale,try to find a reputable urine source and stay with it,there are some who sell less than desirable products.Some lure makers sell a urine spiked with lure that is truly a lure and can be used as such,or you can add a lure of your choice to your urine to make your own super urine,I like to use a gland based lure of the same animal that the urine is from when I make my super urine.An ounce of lure to a pint of urine is the combination I use,I think it imitates the in-season urine to a degree.If you do not buy urine,you should still make every effort to collect urine,especially from bobcats,fox,and coyotes if you are predator trapping,it can be a valuable tool in your arsenal of weapons,especially during breeding season with a dropping.
Bobcat Attractors
September 16, 2011
Curiosity killed the cat,so the old saying goes,and nothing raises the curiosity of a bobcat more than a flashy,well placed attractor.There are the tried and true standby's aluminum pie plates,CD discs,VCR tapes,surveyor's tapes of many different colors,Christmas tinsel of any color,and the natural ones,fur and feathers,which we are allowed to use here in Louisiana,but are not legal in most other states.Some like to hang them high above their sets,while others like to place them low behind their trap in their sets,either will work.Sound can be used as an attractor too,everything from hanging a coke can with small rocks or BB's in it to the modern electronic squeakers,they can be the thing that makes the cat curious enough to take that extra step upon your pan.I have found that the pet section of a Wal-Mart or Pet Smart can also be a good place to find cheap attractors in the cat section,especially when there is a sale.These cat toys were designed by researchers,who tested them on cats to see what cats liked best,take advantage of their research,it only costs you the price of the toy.I like a ball with a small bell inside called "Midnight Crazies" I find at Wal-Mart,it gives me sight and sound.I like to hang these balls beneath an attractor I make by wrapping white surveyor's tape around a cotton ball and leave the two ends of the tape about six inches,to which I attach a string on top to tie above my trap.I place a skunky call lure on the cotton ball and in this way I will have an attractor that has sight,sound,and smell,bobcats will not ignore them.If you use fur or feathers for an attractor,it does not hurt to also put lure on them,the wind will disperse the odor for you.What are some of the attractors you use at your bobcat sets?

Pan Tension
September 16, 2011
When I first started trapping long ago,I trapped mink and coon with #11 Victor longsprings,all I knew about pan tension was that I wanted the trap to snap as soon as the mink or coon stepped on the pan,period.Now,many years later,I realize how important it is to have a means to adjust my pan tension so that my trap snaps when the animal has made a full commitment to step on my pan,insuring a high foot pad catch,which is always desired.Modern coilspring traps have a pan bolt which allows for easy adjustment of pan tension at the correct amount needed for your desired target animal,lower for smaller animals and a bit higher for the larger furbearers.Some long spring traps now also have pan tension adjustment bolts,but most don't including the older longspring traps,most of the the dogless traps also have no pan adjustment bolts.There are special adjustments needed to gain pan tension on these traps,but it is possible to do with some tinkering.An easy way to gain tension on a trap with a dog is to bend the tip of the dog up for more tension and down for less tension,a little goes a long way,so be careful.You can also place foam rubber or poly-fil under your pan to add a little tension.Just the power of your springs,coil or long adds some tension to your pan,and adding music wire springs or four-coiling your trap can increase your trap pan tension,so be aware.Whichever type of trap you use try to be aware that pan tension is the secret to getting the high pad desired catch on your furbearers and that there are many ways to adjust for it and that many things can affect it.

Less is More
September 15, 2011
"Less Is More"is a favorite oxymoron made popular by women when men bother them,but it never seems to apply when they need money.It can also apply to trapping at times and I use it to my advantage to take some suspicious animals,especially canines.I will admit my flashy,lured bobcat sets can border on ridiculous at times,especially when I am experimenting with new ideas,but even these sets will occasionally take a hungry,dispersing coyote pup,but it is the exception and not the rule.The sets that really shine using this philosophy are flat sets,scent post sets,and blind trail sets,all can be used at times to take suspicious or set-shy animals.Very subtle,well blended flat sets can be used with a small concealed mouse hole that contains a very small amount of lure or bait,a dropping and/or urine can be used as a scent post set next to a well traveled trail in a good location with a well blended trap to take a suspicious canine.My favorite is just a well blended blind trail set placed on a spot in the trail that causes the animal to place its' foot in the same place every time it passes,features such as roots,downed limbs,rocks in the trail,or a low spot or small drainage runoff in the trail that every passing animal will put its' foot in.These types of sets work well in combination with your dirt hole sets or flashy bobcat sets to catch the suspicious,set-shy canines and bobcats,that would just walk by and avoid your obvious set.So,the next time your wife reminds you "Less Is More",remember it can pay big dividends on your bobcat and canine traplines.

Scatology
September 15, 2011
Scatology is the study of animal scat or feces and at times I am an amateur scatologist on my line.By doing this,I am able to tell many things about the animal that left its' dropping on my trapline.First,I am able to identify what species of animal it was,biologists do the same thing by using the DNA from scat to identify the species and the individual animal that left that particular dropping,it proves to be very valuable in animal attacks or depredation,so that individual culprit can be identified and captured and in most cases destroyed.The shape and size are clues to what animal left his calling card.Canines tend to have an elongated,pinched end on their scat and and it is of a continuous shape and consistency.Bobcats tend to have scat which is segmented and round on the ends,resembling a "Tootsie Roll".Otter scat will contain crawfish shells,fish scales,and there will usually be a green,slimy vomit close by.What this scat tells us is that this animal travels through this location and leaves his scat here to mark his territory and to communicate to other animals who wander through.By judging the weathering of the scat,you are able to tell how long ago that animal left his calling card and if there is a collection of scat,you will know he frequently returns to add to his territorial marker at certain intervals.If you dissect the scat,you may be able to identify what that animal has been eating and what bait he may prefer if you choose to set for him.A bobcat toilet is a valuable set location,especially during breeding season,as all the local toms will investigate these locations to see if the local females are in season.I collect droppings on my line and reuse them when I am making my sets.I use them as lure,whole or smashed with a shot of urine at a hole or flat set and they can be all I use at a scent post set,some of the old-time wolfers out West caught many a problem animal using just a well placed dropping and a #3N Victor longspring trap.A dropping can also be used as a guide at your set to put that animal's foot right on your pan,they do not like to step in scat.When you are scouting look for these locations where the animals leave their calling cards,they may be telling you this is the place to make your sets,one of which should always be some type of a scent post set,using the dropping and urine.


Carcass Disposal
Jan 4, 2012
I have been reading on other trapping websites the bad publicity trappers are receiving from problems brought to light by irresponsible disposal of animal carcasses.Tony shared an E-mail from a couple here in Louisiana of unsightly rotting nutria in traps in Maurepas Swamp Wildlife Management Area,there is no excuse for this in Louisiana with a 24 hour check regulation,especially on public land.This is exactly the kind of negative press,that the anti-trapping advocates will promote and publicize in their never ending fight to ban all trapping.I realize that the more animals you trap the bigger the disposal problem and a wise trapper will have a strategy to avoid these types of conflicts.Beaver and bobcat are two of the best baits for furbearers and the whole carcasses of beaver and nutria make excellent trash pile sets for predators,especially along watercourses.Some furbearers are not so readily used as bait,but they can be placed in a brushy thicket or briar patch and covered from sight,these locations can be used as bait stations and set up with snares or blind trail sets with footholds to take the coyotes,bobcats,or fox,as they come to investigate or feed on your hidden bait pile.Never throw your carcasses into a waterway along a road at a bridge location or on the side of a busy highway,these types of locations disturb me and they are always the types of situations,that bring bad publicity for trappers.When trapping private property,the landowners will sometimes dig a hole for you to bury them in with a backhoe or they will tell you to place them in a certain area,often an area that will make a good bait station location,try to work with them and keep the disposal onsite when possible.Good luck and remember everything you do as a trapper is a reflection on all trappers,that is why we should always be as legal,humane,and ethical as possible in all our pursuits as trappers,from beginning to end.

Best Bait
Dec 6, 2011
Though I am not a big advocate of bait,especially here in Louisiana,because of its attraction to possums and birds of prey and vultures,there are times I will resort to using bait,both here in Louisiana and in New Mexico,where skunks are as bad as possums and ravens and eagles survive on carrion.The best bait is concealed bait,bait that is not exposed,even if the regulations allow it,it makes no sense to feed and catch unwanted scavengers,that will later become meals for your desired predators,that will not be caught in already snapped traps.Being blessed with a very acute sense of smell,predators are able to smell bait that is buried under the ground,so bait that is covered in a trash pile set or hay set is easily detected by all predators.Here,in Louisiana,I find beaver and nutria to be the best bait and I like to use them whole,gutted,and staked or tied down for bobcat and coyote,in trash pile sets. I place them on obvious travel ways and canal and stream crossings,bridges,culverts,or beaver dams,a well placed attractor does not hurt,either.I will,at times,make bait stations with skinned animal carcasses in thick briar patches and snare the trails that the coyotes use to get to the bait,once again it helps to conceal the bait from above to avoid the birds.You can cut up beaver and nutria into chunks and place them in dirt hole sets for predators,the same can be done with roadkill,rabbits,squirrels,and feral cats are a few that I use.A buried skunk is a bait that I welcome and use both in Louisiana and New Mexico,here you can leave the tip of the tail exposed as an attractor.Muskrat and mink make excellent otter bait in elevated pocket sets near crossings and along the edges of streams they travel,I like to use a larger foothold trap on a drowner at these sets.Fresh or frozen fish or fish parts are excellent bait for coon,mink,otter,and all predators,especially in areas the predators are used to feeding on them.Out West,only beaver is considered better predator bait than bobcat,if you have eaten bobcat,you will know why,it is very tasty.Cats are known cannibals and the toms are famous for killing and eating kittens in order to breed with the females,as are lions in Africa.The local rats and mice are very good dirt hole baits for predators,I will always use pack rats,ground squirrels,or prairie dogs for bait in New Mexico,when they are available.Sometimes,just the promise of bait works well,the use of fur and feathers can be just as powerful a draw to predators as visible bait,whether it is used as an attractor or placed in a flashy dirt hole set,the visual effect will cause a response by the predator to place it in your trap,food lures work in the same manner.The colder the weather,the more I will use bait,the possums and skunks will limit their activities in colder weather and the bait will remain fresh and be a very good draw for a hungry predator looking for an easy meal,once again a trapper taking advantage of a situation,making it work to his benefit.For a trapper,who is not a big advocate of bait,it seems I use bait quite a bit in certain situations,you should learn to do the same.At certain times,especially colder weather,and in certain situations for special sets for certain specific furbearers,certain types of bait can be just the ticket to seal the deal and put them on your stretchers.Good luck and as the weather gets colder and your catch numbers increase,do not forget the drawing power of fresh bait on your predator and water lines.

My Lured Walk Through Set
March 23, 2013
One of the many things I did this season in New Mexico was to attempt to perfect my lured walk-through trail set,a combination of a blind trail set and a lured walk-through set.As I have said before,I do not believe that lure and bait are essential for catching furbearers,I have caught thousands,both on land and in the water,with neither at any of my set locations.Location is the number one ingredient to any successful set,followed by a well stabilized trap,in my opinion,a blind trail set being the optimum minimum necessary,most times.I am a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. method of trapping,eliminate anything that is not necessary and just simply make your set with the bare minimum needed to catch your desired furbearer.In pursuit of the perfect set,I feel my lured walk-through trail set comes close to being the most efficient set possible for most land furbearers,it performed very well for me this season in New Mexico.First,I find a suitable location,I like a spot in the trail where it naturally narrows down and forces the animals to funnel through a narrow area that they are used to using on their normal rounds through their home territories.Out West,my favorite spot is where a very large,older log has been cut or has fallen and it blocks down the trail and forces the animal around one end of the log,usually the uprooted end or a spot where the animals have literally walked the log into two separate pieces and there is a worn opening between the two pieces in the trail that they are all using.If,such a perfect situation does not exist,I will do some creative landscaping and make one for them.This may be as simple as putting two small cut logs on each side of a well worn trail at a naturally occurring tight spot,blocking down a high bank wash they are traveling in with logs and debris or using this set-up in combination with a walk-through bait set or a flashy walk-through bobcat set with an attractor and call lure or an electronic screamer or both.I have learned to use two of these sets in certain situations with the screamer and attractors in the middle and force the animals to walk-through my sets to investigate the the sights,smells and sounds or to get to my concealed bait.This set has proven very versatile and can be adapted to many different situations,from a simple trail set to a combination set employing two or three traps at the same set location,all set in the same manner.In its most simple form,I like to use two small logs on a well used trail,with just enough of an opening between them to allow your chosen trap to be firmly set,be it a #1.5 coilspring buried,a #3 longspring exposed set or a #3 sized coilspring buried or exposed,this set will readily accept any trap or any application.Whichever you choose,you must be sure to bed your trap as solidly as possible,I like to power bed my buried traps,since the animal will be stepping back and forth on top of it,as it smells the lure and/or bait that you will be placing on both logs,on both sides of your trap.I like to bed my trap on an angle,with the dog pointing to the outside edge of one log and both levers doing the same.If you were looking at it from above,your dog would be at 4 o'clock,one lever would be at 2 o'clock and the other lever at 8 o'clock,in that manner the animal should be stepping between your jaws consistently.I like to add a small rock,stick,dirt clod or dropping at the three corners of the dog and the two levers,leaving an inviting opening over the loose jaw.The beauty of this set is that it makes it difficult for an animal,fox or coyote,to work it from the side and there is no backside for them to work from.If you get a digger,most of them can be caught by moving the trap from the original bed between the logs to just on the outside of the set,on whichever side the digger prefers to work the set from or you can add another trap on that side and put it on a drag.While talking about drags,that is another plus for this set,you can easily incorporate a drag into your set by letting it be one of the logs on one side of your set.Anchoring is easily done with a rebar stake or earth anchor type stake,I like to use 1/8" GAC extensions 8 foot long and wrap them around a log drag,a convenient tree at the set location and sometimes even looped around or stapled to the old,fallen log at the set,all are secured by a 2 1/2" fence staple.The beauty of luring this set is the fact that in reality it needs none,since it is a blind trail set to begin with,but,I like to lure both sides in an effort to get the animal moving his feet from side to side over my well bedded trap and the combinations of lure,bait,urine,droppings and fresh animal parts is endless.My favorite combination is a pure bobcat set,with bobcat gland lure and urine on one side and bobcat droppings or a bobcat foot on the other side with bobcat urine on them,this combination will catch bobcat,fox or coyote,when no attractors are used.I do use a lot of attractors with a strong call lure,Gusto or skunk tincture,when the weather turns cold in late December,January and February,the attractors will deter the coyotes and some grey fox from working my bobcat sets,but not all.Once again,if a good rain comes through and washes away most of your lure and urine,you will still have a very good blind trail set at a very good location,remember I have taken thousands of furbearers in blind trail sets,no lure or bait.Though there is in truth no guaranteed perfect set,my lured walk-through trail set served me well this season in New Mexico and the advantages to it far out weighed any of the disadvantages,in my opinion and I would be disappointed if it did not serve you as well on your trap lines here in Louisiana.Good luck,maybe one day I will get to do a demo at the LTAHA Convention and I can show you the beauty of this simple set live and in color

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556297
06/15/19 03:57 PM
06/15/19 03:57 PM
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Wisconsin
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The Beav Offline
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The Beav  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
Good stuff.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556325
06/15/19 05:04 PM
06/15/19 05:04 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
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South Ga - Almost Florida
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Swamp Wolf Offline
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Swamp Wolf  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2009
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South Ga - Almost Florida
This is pretty good Stuff Wood Duck!!!

Keep it coming...


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Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556345
06/15/19 05:45 PM
06/15/19 05:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
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Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
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Aix sponsa  Offline OP
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Louisiana
Bobcat Skinning Tips
November 20, 2011
I thought I would give some tips on skinning bobcats,that I have learned to avoid unwanted pelt damage or loss of value due to pelt quality from poor handling.If you want to leave the feet on you must cut under the foot pad,and split the heel to the knee joint on the back side,it helps to remove the dew claws on the front legs.If you cut the front feet off,fold individual paper towels twice and put them on the ends of the cut legs and secure them in place around the leg stub with rubber bands,this will limit the amount of blood on your valuable bobcat pelt.I was always taught to make the back leg cut just inside the white and brown line,leaving a small amount of brown fur to be folded over later and used as a seam when sewn,most people today cut right on the line.When skinning down to the front legs be careful,I always use a rounded 1/2" wooden dowel to push through and free the front legs,avoiding any knife work in this area and cutting holes in a critical area,that will have to be sewn.If I am not saving the animal for taxidermy,I will run a screw driver,standard or Phillips,between the front side of the ears and the skull (NAFA-style) and try to remove as much of the ear cartilage as possible,while leaving as much of the exterior ear intact,in an effort to avoid the possibility of spoilage.This same principle can be used to avoid spoilage on fox and coyotes.A good dusting of borax(Twenty Mule Team) can also help prevent spoilage,especially on the ears and face and the area around the front legs,do this before you turn the fur out,it helps.These are just a few tips to help you get the most for your pelts from the many bobcats you will catch this year with all the free advice you have received here in the off season(LOL).Good luck,sharpen up your knives,fellows.

Illegal Wildlife Poisoning
November 14, 2011
Over the weekend,I read an article in the paper about a man from West Monroe,who was sentenced in Federal Court to six months house arrest,a $5000 fine and three years probation for illegally poisoning wildlife in Ouachita and Richland Parishes.He pled guilty to charges of one count of violating federal pesticide laws and one count of violating the Migratory Bird Treaty Act for killing 17 coyotes,16 raccoons,12 opossums,4 bobcats,a red tailed hawk,and a barred owl.His poison of choice was Temik,an insecticide licensed for use on crops from citrus and pecan trees to peanuts,sweet potatoes,and soy beans,a common but deadly poison,when applied in concentrated doses to corn feed piles or meat baits set out to kill nuisance wildlife,feral hogs and coyotes being the primary targets.Doing research on Temik,I found other cases of it being used to illegally poison wildlife from South Carolina to Texas,which leads one to believe this is a popular,unspoken practice across the South.It is cheaper and easier than paying an NWCO to legally trap a large farm and the chance of getting caught is next to zero if you keep the dead,poisoned animals out of sight.I was aware of the "Pepsi of Death" concoction,a combination of the yellow fly poison,Starbar Golden Malren, and Pepsi cola,that is popular with ranchers out West and after doing research,is becoming very popular around the country to take nuisance animals,mostly raccoons,by individuals,not wishing to pay an NWCO his standard fee for doing a legal,licensed capture of nuisance wildlife.I believe a man has a legal right to protect his private property,but it should be done in an ethical,humane,and legal manner that selectively targets specific nuisance animals and does not kill innocent,protected incidental animals or poses a threat to human beings and the local environment.My last statement sounds like something from an animal rights group's agenda,but,as you well know,I am no animal rights group advocate,I am only advocating that all citizens play by the same rulebook.If,we as trappers must be licensed and follow all the trapping regulations,then the general public must also be required to follow the same rules and regulations that pertain to wildlife and nuisance wildlife control,that is common sense to me.These persons that choose to take illegal shortcuts to nuisance wildlife management are poachers,no more,no less,and should be dealt with as such by state and federal wildlife agencies and legal,ethical sportsmen,especially trappers.The random,incidental poisoning of nuisance wildlife is a problem in this country,that is growing at all levels,from individual homeowners poisoning raccoons to large farms poisoning feral hogs and coyotes.Once again,the answer to this problem is education of the general public to the legal solutions available to them and to the enforcement of the existing laws and regulations concerning the control of nuisance wildlife and the illegal use of dangerous uncontrolled wildlife poisoning.Be aware of this situation this trapping season and report any evidence you encounter that may be illegal wildlife poisoning,this is illegal poaching.

M-44’s and 1080 LPC Protection Collar
November 13, 2011
The M-44 and the 1080 Livestock Protection Company Protection Collar are the two lethal chemical choices that a trapper has legally available to him today.The M-44 uses sodium cyanide,ingested by the coyote,when he pulls on the bait placed on top of the loaded cylinder,that delivers the fatal dose.The LPC Protection Collar is a collar with bladders containing 1080(sodium monofluoroacetate) that is to be worn by potential victims of coyotes,lambs,sheep,and goats.Both of these methods are regulated by federal and state wildlife agencies,in some states they are illegal,they require strict,licensed training by the federal agencies,if at all and they have an advantage over the NWCO or the average nuisance/fur trapper,they are the certified experts and they are taxpayer funded.Many a coyote out West has fallen to a government trapper's M-44 or when 1080 was placed in carcasses back in the mid twentieth century,the coyote population took a huge dip and bobcat and fox,both red and grey,numbers increased dramatically.The use of these agents and methods were discontinued by the federal government in 1972 by Presidential Executive Order 11643,signed by President Richard Nixon.Today,the M-44 is now a popular choice for coyote control,as are the nuisance predator specific LPC Protection Collars,but,both are strictly regulated and licensed.As far as I know,these are the only two legal predacides,if you do not include the regulated use of carbon monoxide cylinders for denning,used here in the Lower 48.Most of the 1080 is made at a single plant in Alabama and shipped to New Zealand and Australia,where its use is legal,but regulated,to control nuisance wildlife.The animal rights groups are against both of these methods,because of their possible slow,uncertain death and the indiscriminate,incidental catch potential.I believe this protest by them helps our cause as trappers,as the federal and state wildlife agencies realize these people only want to further their biased propaganda and agenda and that they are opposed to any common sense wildlife management solutions,sportsmen are the true conservationists in this equation and are willing to work with them to fruition of essential goals.Good luck this season and remember we,as trappers,are the true conservationists in Louisiana,be proud you are a trapper.




Dog-Proof Traps
November 10, 2011
In my opinion,the evolution of the dog-proof trap and its rise in popularity with serious raccoon trappers is the most important thing to happen in trapping in the twenty-first century.It reminds me much of the story of conibear traps in the last half of the twentieth century and I hope the story of both of these traps will continue into the next century as will trapping,in general.The Lil' Griz started the dog-proof trap craze,pretty much,but it was preceded by other variations that led to the general design we know today,necessity was the mother of invention.In an effort to avoid incidental catches and catch nuisance animals around the chicken coop,the old time trappers would dig a hole for a smaller,baited foot hold trap and cover it with a piece of wood or a metal coffee can size can,with a small diameter hole in it,that allowed the coon to reach in for the bait,while avoiding dogs,cats,and chickens.The Black Hole trap attachment was invented to imitate this type of set-up and the dog-proof,as we now know it followed shortly.There are now many different styles of dog-proof traps,both square and round and at least two imitations of the Lil' Griz,the Duke and the newer Z-trap.The original dog-proof traps had pull only triggers and some states only allow their use,while some newer dog-proofs have push-pull triggers,for a slightly better catch percentage,be sure to check your state regulations before buying dog-proofs.There are now kits available to change the older traps from pull only to push-pull,a very convenient option.As the competition increases,the efficiency and prices of dog-proof traps continue to improve in the trapper's favor,the best may be yet to come with new innovations,a new,cheaper Lil' Griz is in the works,but has not hit the market,yet.There are many long line raccoon trappers,who are going almost exclusively to the dog-proof trap because of its ease of setting and efficiency in catching and holding coons,especially in areas that hold large numbers of coons.Here in Louisiana,they have proven valuable both as a nuisance trapping tool in areas of incidental catches and as a very productive trap in the quest for large number raccoon production trapping,a unique,versatile trapping tool.Though their initial expense will set you back a bit,they will quickly pay for themselves in meat and pelts,if you have a market for the meat and access to areas with large coon populations,the large numbers of coons at deer feeders comes to mind as such a situation.Personally,if I were still targeting raccoon on my line,I would use a combination of dog-proofs on open,worn coon trails,blind set 1 1/2 coil springs and/or #11 long springs in the water on the obvious coon trails,that lead in and out of the water and 220 conibears blind set on land in the brushy,worn coon trails.That would be a good strategy for a one thousand coon season here in Louisiana,especially around the crawfish ponds and rice fields.Good luck this season and do not underestimate the value of the little dog-proof traps for raccoon trapping.



LDWF Title 76 Part V
November 6, 2011
Google the title of my post and it will bring up the PDF to LDWF section on regulations concerning the topics of Wild Quadrupeds and Wild Birds.If you scroll down to page 33,section 113,you will come to the regulations that concern Fox/Coyote Hunting Preserve and Sale of Live Foxes and Coyotes,Permitting Year-Round Coyote Trapping.I would suggest that you familiarize yourself with all these regulations,which pertain to the legal catch and sale of live fox and coyote in the state of Louisiana and regulated by LDWF,before you consider getting into the live fox and coyote market here in Louisiana.It is somewhat complicated and detailed,especially if you intend to hold them yourself for more than 24 hours.There are also specific regulations for live coyote capture in the closed trapping season,only a 1 1/2 Woodsteam(Victor) Softcatch trap can be used for foothold catch of coyote and only a relaxing lock can be used for snares,in the new proposed snaring regulations a relaxing lock is specified by LDWF as a 180 degree bend washer lock,known as a Reichard lock to most trappers.The definition in the regulations defines a relaxing lock as,"a locking device on a snare that loosens and tightens in response to the game's action",a very liberal definition,that can be interpreted to mean different things by different LDWF enforcement agents,especially if the new snaring regulations take effect in the fifteen parishes included in the designated critical habitat of the Louisiana Black Bear.I am not trying to start a controversy amongst trappers,I am merely trying to inform and educate trappers to the regulations that are now in place and the possible ramifications of violating these regulations,which will increase with the new proposed snaring regulations.An informed trapper is a wise trapper,never let your fate rest with an uninformed enforcement agent,when in doubt do the thing that you know to be legal and ethical,always err on the side of correct when trapping and avoid the questionable,gray areas.

Conibear Sets

November 4, 2011
One of the most important innovations of the twentieth century in trapping was the invention and development of the conibear trap,into the the efficient fur harvesting tool we know today.I can remember well that I doubted their potential and an animal's willingness to enter them,but after thousands of furbearers caught in them on my trapline,I could never imagine my trapline without them,in all sizes.I remember well reading Jim Spencer's book,"The Mink Manual" and discovering what a productive set 110 conibears made when I placed them at the water's edge in blind trail sets,blocking the path down and forcing mink through the well stabilized little traps,my catch numbers rose dramatically,instantly.I also recall buying my first 220 conibear traps to use for otter on the crossovers and brushy levee trails they used at the crawfish ponds,the ease of making sets and their efficiency forced me to purchase more immediately.These traps' ability to also catch coons in the brushy trails led to my epiphany that these blind set 220 conibears were a tool for large number coon production,when they were used in large numbers and my seasonal coon catch went over 1000 for the first time in my trapping career.I then saw the value of the 330 conibear,that a crawfish pond owner had,that I put to use in Brusly,they were the perfect size trap for beaver in the water.Otter and nutria were also taken in the water,unaware,in blind sets in narrowed down channel sets and at crossover set locations,with the 330 conibear trap set in the water,half submerged and fenced off with sticks and brush.About this time I bought my first 280 conibear traps and I found them to be a versatile trap that could be used in the water in tighter areas or on land on wider trails or crossovers for both otter and beaver,nutria and coon were caught and dispatched as well.While setting the well worn,brushy trails for coon,I occasionally took bobcats in my 220 blind trail sets and when I placed orange surveyor's tape to mark my traps,my incidental bobcat catch doubled and I started catching a few grey fox,most times on trails at the corners of crawfish ponds,where the coons entered and exited the ponds.I learned the importance of an attractor for bobcats and I learned that the 280 conibear made a larger,more inviting opening for these bobcat,that liked to walk these coon trails on high ground around the pond levees.I then tried baited bucket sets for bobcats with 220 conibears,I caught a few,even a grey fox or two,but most times the bait tainted in the Louisiana heat and the possums plugged up the vast majority of my bucket sets,the blind trail sets in brushy areas were more productive sets.I have seen pictures of coyotes in conibear traps,net fence crossunders would be obvious locations as well as brushy trail blind sets,I have never taken any in my conibear sets,it is the rare exception more than the rule.I have learned to think of conibear traps as spring powered snares,similar to the Ram powered snare and use them as such on land or in the water,a 220 has a 7" loop,a 280 has an 8" loop and a 330 has a 10" loop.We are truly blessed here in Louisiana to have such liberal regulations concerning conibear traps,especially on land,but with great power comes great responsibility.It is the responsibility of every trapper using conibear traps to always use them in an ethical,humane manner and to always avoid using them in areas of possible unwanted incidental catches of pets or hunting dogs to insure that trappers in Louisiana will continue to have the ability to utilize the full potential of the versatile conibear trap.The future of trapping is in our hands and our stewardship of this great American tradition will determine the future of trapping for the generations of trappers,who will follow in our footsteps,we should always do our best to protect and defend the legacy that has been intrusted to us.

My Combination Bobcat Set
November 1, 2011
Sometimes,a trapper is able to combine two different types of sets into one set that will employ two traps that work in two very different ways to catch the same animal.Out West,I first started making flashy walk through sets for bobcats,as I had read about in books and on my second check I caught my first New Mexico tom,it was two weeks before I connected again.After a few seasons,I noticed some bobcats were walking past my flashy sets,after stopping to investigate,but not working them.To cure this situation,I came up with my combination walk through-blind trail set solution to this problem.I will find a very suitable bobcat set location and construct my usual flashy walk through bobcat set with an attractor,which is my typical bobcat set out West.But,in this set I also add a trash pile,small sticks,leaves,and/or brush,between the main trail and my flashy walk through set,with the edge of the trash pile on the edge of the main trail.At this point on the trail I will usually put a blind trail set or an exposed walk through set,if the weather is very nasty,on a drag,usually this is a natural type drag, a small log or larger tree branch,which will help to block off the other side of the trap and force the curious but non-committed bobcat over my trap.My flashy walk through set trap is usually anchored behind the set to a tree with my eight foot cable extensions in such a way that when it catches,the animal will tangle up behind the set and allow the blind set trap in the trail to still be ready for action.Conversely,when the blind trail set trap hits first,the bobcat makes his initial leap away from the set area and hopefully tangles the drag up a short distance away from the flashy walk through set.You can make the blind trail set into a subtle walk through set by adding urine or lure to the edge of your trash pile on the trail or you can place a little bait under the trash pile,favoring the trail side of the trash pile,but it is truly not necessary,since the furbearer should be left with only two options,a path through your flashy walk through set or the regular trail,which has been blocked down at the point of your trash pile and your natural drag.I have even thought of putting two blind trail set traps on the trail on two separate drags,I truly love experimenting with different combinations of sets.I know young of the year kittens travel with their mothers well into the trapping season and later during breeding season in January and February and into March,the large toms will be paired up with the in-season females.I had never seen this set discussed,until I bought Tom Krause's bobcat video and sure enough,there it was or very close to it,I guess all us old trappers wind up in the same place eventually,if we keep at it long enough,be warned.As I have said before,my flashy,walk through bobcat sets can border on ridiculous,especially when I get to thinking and experimenting,but in this set I feel I have something for both the aggressive,curious bobcat and something for the cautious,unconcerned bobcat,either way I have a shot at them both and if things go as planned,after one is caught,there will still be another set remaining to take the second bobcat that happens along this trail at a very good bobcat location,let's not forget about location.This is a complicated set and not meant for high numbers of coyote or fox,though it will take some,it is a bobcat set for the high dollar western bobcats,which can bring up to $500 for a large tom bobcat,taking the time to construct it can be well worth your while,especially if you take a double.I have not done it yet with this particular set,but I can see the potential and I will have a few set again this season out West,with the hope of connecting.It is truly a joy to catch two western bobcats in one day or doing it two days in a row or three times in a week,I know the feeling well and I love it.If you have some extra time this year on your line and you want to catch a certain bobcat,take the time to try my combination bobcat set and see if it will do the trick here in Louisiana,$100 a bobcat is not bad for a Louisiana bobcat,put up,that is what some Louisiana trappers got for their bobcats at auction at the end of last season.Good luck,keep an eye out for those bobcat tracks.

The 50 Foot Rule
October 18, 2011
Over my years of trapping,I have come to the conclusion that being lazy does not pay well on the trapline,it will cost you most times.I will make that extra set tomorrow or I think one short stake will hold whatever gets in this trap have both caused me grief and loss on my trapline too many times.That is how I came to believe in the fifty foot rule,which is simply wherever you choose to make a set,if you will continue to walk in the same direction about 50 foot,you will find a set location that is as good as or better than the location you have chosen for your set.For some reason,this is true the majority of the time for me and if you think about it it makes a lot of sense.When you are scouting an area and find that perfect set location,you are on location,so it is common sense that there are other set locations in that general area that also have the potential to be excellent set locations and fifty foot is about the distance that will put you on that other "hot set".This is a good thing whether you are looking for another set location predator trapping,I like to make three sets at a good location to take a double,or if you are otter trapping to have a chance at a triple when a family group comes traveling through,they may cross at the crossover 50 foot down from their usual travel way,for one reason or another on that particular night.When you are out scouting or when you are setting an old familiar location,don't be lazy,take the time to walk another 50 foot to find that other "hot" location,it will be there most of the time,I have seen it too many times for it to be just coincidence,it is a fact.Good luck,keep your eyes open,and don't be lazy,it will cost you.

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556347
06/15/19 05:47 PM
06/15/19 05:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Other Options for Your Fur
October 13, 2011
Selling your fur green or stretching and drying and selling your fur are but two options trappers use to pay their bills,there are other options.When you are skinning your furbearers,you can collect glands from them and sell these glands to lure makers,beaver castor and oil sacs are two that are readily bought and they can also be shipped to fur auctions to be bid on and sold with your pelts.Here in Louisiana,otter,bobcat,and mink are good furbearers to target for gland sale,with the price rising on their pelts,the demand for lure to catch them with will rise and the lure makers will want more glands.Muskrat and mink glands are used as primary ingredients in many lure formulations and beaver castor is also an ingredient used in a lot of lures.You can stretch and dry your fur and send them off to be tanned or tan them yourself,if you choose to,these tanned furs sell well at certain festivals and outdoor shops,the better quality furs selling for a premium.Even tanned skunks sell as a novelty and you can extract the essence and sell it to lure makers or swap it or other animal glands for lure or other trapping products,but you may have to have pints or quarts of these to interest a big time lure maker.Another good idea is to leave the feet on your animals,some will bring a premium to be used by mountain men and Native American craftsmen in the assembly of their traditional and ceremonial costumes,even porcupine hair is used for these costumes and head dresses.The skulls and bones of your furbearers can also be cleaned and sold to collectors or at fairs and festivals as novelties along with your tanned furs or to the vendors that frequent such events,there is a market and a demand for them.Do not forget the raccoon meat market here in Louisiana and beaver,nutria,and bobcat can all be cooked for human consumption,I have eaten them all and they can be substituted in many of our traditional Louisiana hunting camp type dishes and they can be a hit at tailgating parties during football season.As you see,your furbearers can be used in many ways to enhance your trapping experience and to help finance your future trapping endeavors.Good luck and bon appetit.

Hog Trapping
October 4, 2011
Now that fall is in the air,my thoughts are turning to hogs,both here and in Mississippi.When I say here,I mean rlght here in the woods across from my house,in Ascension Parish.It appears,from reading other blogs on the internet,that the Southern part of the United States from Georgia and Florida to Texas and New Mexico are under the hog invasion.There have always been feral hogs around in pockets since I was a small boy,but no where near the numbers we now see across the South.I have taken hogs in many types of traps and snares,but I have found that hogs are not just dumb pigs,they rival dogs when it comes to intelligence,they learn very fast.I prefer to take hogs in the larger conibear traps,280's and 330's of the magnum style,they are easy to set in the well used trails the hogs use to access the food plots,deer feeders,or water sources,and they usually make short work of the piney woods rooters.I have also caught them in #3 and larger four coiled foothold traps or long spring traps,but they can escape,a hogs foot is not designed for a foothold trap and they are very tough on foothold traps and your anchoring set-up,try to anchor your trap well.Snares are another way to go and by using the proper set-up,I like 1/8" 1x19 GAC with a 1/8" sure-lock,you will hold most hogs,even the larger sows and boars,anchor well and strong swivels help.Then,there are the wide variety of live traps from the smaller bobcat size traps to the large colony pen type of traps,that can run from $500 to $5,000,pick your poison.Now,with the new regulations for night hunting and the use of silencers and night vision scopes,the war on hogs has gone high-tech,but be careful here and read all the regulations,written permission is needed from the state game and fish departments as well as written permission from the land owner,dot your I's and cross your T's.I saw the other day in Texas,they have started issuing permits to shoot them from helicopters,leave it to a Texan to step it up to the next level when it comes to a war,all is fair in love and war.Pork and deer make a fine combination sausage,even if it is javelina and mule deer in New Mexico,and October starts the boucherie season here in Louisiana,I guess it's just in our DNA.Do not ignore this readily available source of meat and help everyone concerned with the out of control hog problem,do what trappers do best,control nuisance animals and put some meat in the freezer at the same time,a win,win for all concerned.

Bone Collector
October 7, 2011
Since I have started trapping in New Mexico,I have become a bone collector of sorts.I will make a point to try to collect all the skeletons of cattle,elk,and deer that I can find and I will reuse them to make my sets.I like using the skull bones to construct my walk through bobcat sets,I will lure up the eye sockets and maybe put bait in a small hole under or behind the skull.I usually hang some type of an attractor also,but it is really not necessary if my set is right on the trail in a good location,the skull is attraction enough by itself.I really like the T-bones that make up the backbones of these ungulates,I drive them into the ground and put my lure into the holes in the T-bones,this is how I construct the majority of my flat sets.I also have the option here to add an attractor and block it off a bit and have a very good walk through bobcat set.I will also take the larger leg bones,break them in half,drive them into the ground,put a little gland lure and urine on them and have a pretty good scent post set,adding a dropping does not hurt either.In New Mexico,you cannot have any meat or fur on your bones,they must be clean,so the fresh skeletons I leave hidden to be used the following trapping season after they have aged for a year,I always have a large bone stash.So,as you are scouting or hunting this fall,be aware of the old skulls and skeletons you see lying around,they can be collected and used to make your sets more interesting to the predators you wish to catch on your line.Good luck,keep your eyes open.

Freeze Proof Set
September 7, 2011
Just the name, freeze proof set,is really an oxymoron because if the conditions get bad enough no set will be freeze proof no matter what you do,that is just a fact of trapping.To me daily freeze-thaw is the worst scenario,I would much rather it be below freezing constantly at least you can depend on the same conditions and make your set accordingly with a lot less headache and labor.When it rains an inch,then sleets heavily,and then a foot of blowing snow falls,you are in big trouble,then you have freeze-thaw conditions the next day to really make things a mess.First I dig my trap bed,if I was smart I scouted my locations earlier and pre-dug my trap beds before the ground froze 5 or 6 inches deep,if I did not I will have to pick axe a bed to the required depth and shape of the size trap I am using.Next, I put calcium chloride in the bottom of my bed,just a sprinkling covering the bottom,with a bit of peat moss to cover the calcium chloride.Then,I place a sheet of wax paper down to form a vapor barrier,it is large enough to cover the entire trap bed and must be past the jaws and levers,which can and will freeze to the ground,some people use two layers of wax paper,it cannot hurt anything.Some people will also put small sticks under the levers and loose jaw at this point,I will too if the conditions are really bad.I will also"power bed" my traps at this time,because peat moss is not the best of bedding materials,it is an extra step that can pay big dividends.I sometimes use a wax paper pan cover if conditions are really bad,if not I put poly-fil under my pan,but lately I just sift peat moss to cover my well tuned trap at this point.Now I will sprinkle a little more calcium chloride or spray pure propylene glycol,RV antifreeze, from a spray bottle to keep the top from crusting over too bad at night.I will now sift peat moss over my whole trap bed.Sometimes I sift dry dirt lightly over the peat moss to blend in the set and spray it with propylene glycol,but when it gets real bad it's just peat moss,no dirt or sand.Try to avoid sand at all costs,wet sand will freeze as hard as concrete.If I set in a sandy location,I will dig all the sand out and replace it with peat moss,sand is your enemy,never cover peat moss with sand.Certain trees on my line have a semi-waterproof leaf mulch under them that stays dry if it is protected by the tree,sometimes I will use this dry mulch in place of peat moss if I am running short or I am making a remake.The best freeze proof set is one made in an area protected by a rock overhang or under a large tree on a south or southwestern slope,I look for these places and I set them religiously.An exposed walk through set is also a good freeze proof set when set in one of these protected locations using larger longspring traps.Snares can also be an aid to defeating freeze up and should always be used when conditions make foothold traps difficult to keep working.It is also wise to set larger four coiled traps at this time because the extra strength will help the jaws and levers break loose if they happen to freeze down a little.It is a lot of work trying to keep a 150 trap line operable in adverse conditions and at times I pull my line and wait until conditions stabilize and start over again when the sun shines.

Big Traps
September 6, 2011
I have a saying I have always used to answer the big trap debate,"A big trap forgives a multitude of sins".There seems to be a popular trend being promoted by some "experts" today,that if you are in with the in crowd you must now use CDR traps,with a 7 1/2" jawspread to catch coyotes and bobcats,they cost $375 a dozen,while just last season they were promoting the Montana #2 as the best all around trap available.I am an old,hard-headed trapper but I know any quality #1.75 or#2 trap will hold the vast majority of coyotes and I have held them in stock Victor #1 1/2 coilsprings,here in Louisiana,and I have had one that had the jaws popped.I like a #3 or MB 650 size trap for coyotes,when I am setting specifically for them,but they do not destroy my #1.75 traps when they are caught in them,sometimes a bent dog and an occasional pull-out,that is why I like the larger trap with four coils.I like the #3 coilspring for blind trail sets,but I also use the smaller #3 longspring for exposed trail sets and they work well.A larger jawspread and a larger pan will catch and hold more animals,but the difference in the percentage is so small,it does not justify going out and buying 10 dozen CDR's to keep up with Mr. Super Trapper.In my opinion,it is common sense to become better at trap placement and bedding and pan tension adjustment with your #1.75 and #3 traps,so that you will improve your foothold catches,that is how a thinking trapper does things.Or,you can spend $3,750 on CDR's and wonder why you are still getting some marginal foothold catches in the miracle trap,that forgives a multitude of sins.

Power Bedding
September 6, 2011
I read in Charles Dobbins book,"Land Sets and Trapping Techniques"a few years back about "power bedding",which is just an extra method to stabilize your traps in the trap bed if you are having problems due to soil or weather conditions.The way old Charlie did it was to use 1/4" steel rods or hard wooden dowels,about 7 to 9 inches long,driven into the ground at three or four points around the outside edges of his trap jaws to lock them in position and have a minimum of trap movement when an animal placed his foot on the pan,to aid in a correct,desired pad catch,ah perfection.I know well that a trapper should always make every effort possible to stabilize his foothold traps,but at times the conditions do not allow it,these are the times I use my own method of old Charlie's power bedding.I use 3" finishing nails or cut the heads off longer common nails with bolt cutters and use these as my rods.I like to use 4 points,with my trap dog at 6 o'clock,they will be driven in the ground at 5 and 7 o'clock on both sides of the cross frame(dog) and at 10 and 2 o'clock on the loose or outside jaw.I usually place a small stick under my loose jaw,in case the animal steps on it,but I have done this for a number of years before I started power bedding.I do not do this at all my sets,it is not necessary,but in those sets that are right on an excellent location and are in less than excellent conditions,I will use this technique in an effort to improve my trap stability and improving my chances of making the desired foot pad catch,so that the animal will be in my trap the next day.It is a little extra effort,but it can improve your catch percentage by a few points in the positive direction,especially when conditions are less than perfect.


Squeakers
September 2, 2011
I have held back on this subject for awhile for fear of new trappers thinking this is a silver bullet and ignoring sound,basic trapping methods to pursue a rainbow quest into utter futility.This is not some miracle invention,it is just another tool to utilize in your quest to become a better trapper.It capitalizes on an animals acute sense of hearing and natural curiosity to distress sounds.I am still learning about them and yes I have caught animals using them.I have found when I place them above my traps,in trees or rock formations,I tend to catch grey fox and large male bobcats,I think because they are bold and aggressive in these situations.I have only caught one female bobcat and one young of year coyote pup with them above my traps.When I place them on the ground or in a brush or root pile,I always take coyotes before the bobcats get to them,even if they are in a good bobcat location.I am working on other ideas involving snares and walk through set combinations,but I have not done it enough to offer an opinion ,yet.I have two types,one is louder and larger than the other,these are the ones that have been more successful.The smaller one is a mouse-type squeaker and must be set right on location,on the trail.It also has a red LED light ,that attracts by sight also, it seems to only catch the shy female bobcats,I think it is not as intimidating as the louder unit.Charles Dobbins has a good discussion on squeakers in his book,"Land Sets and Trapping Techniques",he has some interesting ways to use them.These squeakers are not a magic silver bullet and I would not recommend their use to new trappers,they are not necessary to catch furbearers,but they do have a place as specialized tools to be used in certain situations on your trapline.

My Favorite Trapping Authors
December 14, 2011
As most of you know,I am sixty years old and my glory days of trapping are well behind me now,but I still make an effort most years to put out a trap or two.A long time ago,there was no internet,no trapping DVD's,few if any reputable trapping books,and a trapping magazine or two,that would vary in the amount and quality of information offered.Today's trappers are truly blessed to have so much information available to them at the push of a button or to be able to order books or DVD's from trappers,who are truly experts at their craft and can give specialized trapping knowledge of specific furbearers in certain areas of the country and under certain conditions,winter fur trapping or ADC trapping in the summer.Being an older trapper,there are a few authors,whose trapping knowledge I have come to respect,the things they have written have been proven correct in my years of trapping,both in the water and on land.Charles Dobbins is first on my list,simply because of the amount of knowledge the man possessed and the amount he shared in books and DVD's.I have "Land Sets and Trapping Techniques" an excellent book on predator trapping,"Beaver and Otter Trapping,Open Water Techniques" an excellent book on water trapping,and "Mink Trapping Techniques" an other excellent book on mink trapping.He has other books on dirt hole and flat sets,all are excellent in my opinion.Next,is Hal Sullivan from Ohio,I have "Trapline 2000" a book about general trapping all species in the twenty-first century and "Otter 2000" an excellent book on otter trapping.I like my old friend Jim Spencer,also,I have his "Mink Manual",it is an excellent book on mink trapping in the South and I have "Guide To Trapping" another excellent modern general trapping guide to the trapping of most common furbearers.There is one more book I have by Tom Krause,another trapping legend,titled "Dynamite Bobcat Trapping and Snaring",this book is responsible for most of what I know about Western bobcat trapping,along with the experience I have acquired in four seasons in New Mexico.He has a DVD titled "Big Bucks Bobcats" that I also have and gives a lot of information on Western bobcat trapping,sometimes seeing is easier than reading,especially to an older hard-headed trapper.These are some of the books I enjoy reading and rereading,when I have a problem on my line.I do not consider anything these men have written a waste of time or money and much of what I do and think as a trapper has come from the knowledge and insight their books have given to me.Good luck this season and if you are looking for a good present for yourself or another trapper on your Christmas shopping list,any of these books,by any of these authors will fill the stocking admirably.

Large Acorn Crop
December 11, 2011
I have seen and heard all fall long,hunters and trappers are talking about the large acorn crop this year and its effect on hunting and trapping.My brother told me the hogs and deer have left the deer feeders and are feeding on the acorns.I would imagine the coons are doing the same,as I have noticed the small ends of the oak branches in my area,that the coons have cut and dropped down to the ground,they are feeding on the acorns,also.I would think that if you can locate some white oak trees,you would also locate the deer,that have abandoned the feeders.If you are having trouble catching coons along the bayous and creeks this season,try to place your traps in areas with oak groves or ridges in the wetter areas,maybe using the dog-proof traps baited with a sweet bait or fish bait to give them a change up from the acorns.You could also set the brushy,worn coon trails in these areas with blind set 220 conibears,if there is no risk of unwanted,incidental catches.Baited hole sets with #1.5 coilspring traps around the bases of the larger oak trees or guarding the bottom hollow entrances,with bait inside,can also be good sets to take these acorn eating coons.Good luck and when the animals change their habits,you must make adjustments to your methods if you wish to be successful.

Long Spring Trap Adjustment
December 8, 2011
As everyone knows,I started trapping long ago using #11 Victor long spring traps,trapping mink and coon in the swamps of South Louisiana,I also caught and held otter,nutria,beaver,fox,and bobcat in these small traps,though I would not intentionally set them for any of them today.The long spring trap has through the years proven itself to be a reliable and trustworthy design for all furbearers,when used in the correct size and application for your desired furbearer.Whether you are using the #11 for coon and mink in the swamps,the #2 for fox or bobcat in Louisiana on dry ground,the #3 or #4 for exposed sets out West or on a drowner in the water for otter,or a #5 for beaver on a nuisance job,the long spring traps will serve you well in most situations.There are a few adjustments that the average trapper can do to them to improve their performance.First,I do not like the chain on the spring end,I like to remove it and place it on the center of the trap's baseplate.This can be done by simply placing a J-hook through the pre-drilled center hole or drilling one yourself and connecting your chain assembly. I like a chain assembly similar to my coil spring traps,J-hook,short length of welded chain,heavy duty double swivel,another length of welded chain,and a heavy duty double swivel on the terminal end,to be used as a staking end or as a drowning slide.A trapper can also weld a baseplate on with a center swiveling D-ring or you can buy the crimp on center swiveling locators,they will all make your trap a more efficient piece of equipment.The lack of a trap tension adjustment feature on the older longspring traps can be cured by the use of a Paws-I-Trip pan assembly or by filing your pan notch and dog,creating a Miles trigger,a trick the old trappers used long ago and is still functional today.If this is not feasible for you,simply squeeze the eye of the dog a little,the tighter it gets,the more tension will be added,try not to get it too tight.Next,you can take some of the sloppiness out of the pan by wrapping a smaller diameter wire around the cross frame,where the trap pan eye connects,usually a couple of wraps works well.I have also placed a larger diameter wire or cut half link of smaller chain through the bottom of the pan eye to cure this situation,it is a quick easy fix that works also,if you do not want to double wrap the cross frame.I like to bend the jaw tips up a little to prevent a pullout or you can bubble-tip the jaws,if you have access to a welder.Of course,laminations can be welded to the jaws,along with the baseplates,these antiques can be turned into modern works of trapping art,at least to a trapper.If you have some old longspring traps hanging in your shed,do not under estimate their value on your trapline,with a few adjustments or more extensive alterations,they can become very serviceable traps and help to increase your fur check at the end of the year.Good luck this season and do not ignore the value of the old longspring traps,there is a reason they are still around,its worth has been proven over time.

Skunk and Possum Remakes
December 4, 2011
One of the most depressing things in trapping is walking up to a well made predator set in an excellent location and seeing a possum or skunk waiting for you with a grin of ridicule on their faces.Once again,all is not lost,take advantage of the lemons and make lemonade with these undesirable catches.If you need another set in the area,simply dig a dirt hole and bury the possum or skunk on a well traveled trail and place a buried trap to guard it.The addition of a small trash pile over your buried possum or skunk,will only add to its interest to bobcats or grey fox,especially if you add feathers and a shot of urine for curiosity's sake.Out West there is an old saying that a buried skunk equals a trapped coyote,but,buried skunks are just as much a magnet to bobcats and grey fox and other skunks,unfortunately.It has been my experience,that it is best to put these types of sets on drags when possible,to avoid the trapped animal from being covered with the smell and gore of the buried possum or skunk,when a catch is made.Another trick is to bury a possum,where a skunk has been caught and bury the skunk,where the possum was caught,in that manner the lure of the caught skunk can be used at both locations,a good practice here in Louisiana,where both species are common.Good luck and do not curse a trapped possum or skunk,it may be a blessing in disguise.

Dispersing Canines
November 29, 2011
In the trapping tips post,Wesley touched on the use of bait and food and curiosity lures for canines in the early part of the season.This tactic is a good strategy to take young of the year dispersing coyotes or foxes,who will be traveling long distances in an effort to find new areas to establish their own territories.Most times they are disoriented in new,unfamiliar territory and they are hungry looking for an easy meal,since they are now on their own and hunting for themselves.Once again it is best to have more than one set at a good location,often litter mates will be traveling together and when one gets caught the other will linger in the area for a while,not to mention the resident coyotes,who will want to extend a warm welcome to the new intruders.Set all the obvious travel ways,pipeline and powerline roads and right of ways,two track roads through wooded areas,roads along canals and rivers and the bridges and culverts,that cross them,railroad right of ways,and the right of ways along major highway systems and where they intersect.Locations where two or more of these features intersect are usually prime locations for multiple sets or a group of sets,do not miss a chance to double up at these potential "hot" locations.The use of fresh bait,beaver,nutria,deer scraps or fresh roadkill down a dirt hole,will lower your chance of catching possums,another reason to make multiple sets at a good location,here in Louisiana.It is my belief that the more coyotes that are removed from an area,the better it is for the other resident furbearers and the small game birds and animals in that area.It only makes common sense to remove the excess,younger coyotes and foxes when they are most vulnerable,inexperienced and hungry,in unfamiliar surroundings,the odds are in your favor,take advantage of this situation.Good luck and never miss an opportunity to take these easy coyotes or foxes when the situation presents itself.



Bird Seed for Bobcat
November 28, 2011
Well fellows,I guess you think I have lost my mind now,but this is your Christmas present from me,I decided to give it to you a little early.This is something I do out West to take advantage of the crepuscular nature of bobcats and birds.I have never shared this secret before nor have I ever read or heard of any trapper doing it,but I am sure many old trappers have used this trick in times gone by.At times,I will put bird seed in the general area of my bobcat sets to attract the many small birds to the set location,they are most active in the early morning and the late afternoon,the same time the bobcats and grey fox are on the prowl and looking for a meal,you cannot get a better attractor than a live decoy.I like to use the bird seed that has no whole kernel corn or even cracked corn,when possible,to avoid ravens,deer,and javelina.I place the bird seed around my set,not on my set,try not to get it within 10 to 12 feet,I want the small birds to be feeding around my set,not on my trap.The action of the birds fluttering around in the area will catch the eye and ear of every bobcat or grey fox in the area.I like to use this trick in an area that I know is good bobcat habitat,brushy and rocky,but there is no real definite set location,there may be 10 good set locations in that one area or there may be none.Sometimes I will use this trick with my electronic screamers,when the bobcat approaches and scares the real birds off,there is still one left calling,that he will want to seek out and hopefully cross my trap.This same trick can be used in a double snare or double blind trail set location,with the bird seed placed between the two ambush points,forcing the predators to walk through them to get to the feeding birds.Even though you may not be able to use live or exposed bait in most states,there is no regulation against feeding the songbirds,this is another example of staying within the letter and intent of the regulation,while legally doing it in a different manner.Sometimes you will find a bird has been caught and eaten,with your trap not snapped,but most times it is the other way around.Merry Christmas my fellow trappers,remember me when I am gone and you are throwing bird seed around your bobcat sets out West.

Nocturnal, Diurnal, or Crepuscular?
November 19, 2011
These three terms are related and refer to what time of day a species of animal is most active.Nocturnal animals are most active at night,most of these animals will have a very well developed night vision and a well developed hearing sense,many are found in the desert,they move at night to avoid the extreme daytime temperatures.Diurnal animals are most active during the daylight hours,they usually have lesser vision and hearing capabilities,the best example are the larger primates,humans being at the top of the list.Crepuscular animals are animals that are most active at twilight,both at dusk and dawn,most furbearers and their prey fall into this category.The changing of the quality of light at this time causes prey species to be more active as the predators have a harder time with visibility and this gives the prey an advantage,they have adapted to give them an advantage to feed,water and engage in other natural behaviors.By being aware of these factors,a trapper or predator hunter can plan his activities to take advantage of furbearers' tendencies to be more active during the crepuscular periods of the day.Rabbits,rodents and deer are crepuscular animals and this forces the predators that seek them out to be most active at the same time periods,dusk and dawn.When I am out in New Mexico,I run a predator line and concentrate on bobcats and grey fox,coyotes not so much,but when I see coyotes it is early in the morning or late in the afternoon,the vast majority of the time.I awake early in the morning,but I am never in too much of a hurry to check my line before sunrise,I will use this time for traveling to the area of my first set,but will not start to actively run my line until after sunrise,giving the crepuscular animals,especially bobcats,a little extra time to investigate and get caught in my sets.If I am running a long line out West,I will run my line from one direction one day and run it from the opposite direction the next day,in order to try to even the odds by taking advantage of the crepuscular nature of my furbearers,though this can at times work to only satisfy my peace of mind,in reality.The optimum modus operandi would be to run your long line in one direction one day,spend the night at the end of your line and the next morning run your line in reverse back to your home base.I have never done this out West,but I have given it serious thought and I may do it in the very near future to see just how successful this strategy can be.I love to experiment at every level of trapping,you are only limited by your imagination and creativity,but your physical and mental capabilities always come into play at some point,especially at my age.The point I am trying to make here is to be aware that most furbearers are crepuscular animals,so try to take advantage of this fact whether you are trapping or predator hunting,it never hurts to have the odds a little bit more in your favor when possible.Good luck and be aware at dusk and dawn.

Trapping Ethics
November 18, 2011
With the beginning of trapping seasons in other states and the season opener tomorrow,here in Louisiana,I have read many instances of unethical practices encountered by many trappers,who have started off their seasons with more competition this season,especially on public land.Everything from trap theft and trespassing,both against the law,to trappers staking out areas before season and setting on top of each other,not in a friendly competition sort of way.Trapping ethics,or should I say etiquette,is the unwritten rule of do unto others as you would have them do unto you,the Golden Rule.This is the best motto to follow,if there is any doubt in your mind as to what should be done in any circumstance.Should I set the same location the trapper before me has set,should I cross over onto the next property I do not have permission on to make a set,should I set a large conibear trap on land here,knowing that there is a good chance for an unwanted,incidental catch of a farmer's pet on private property or someone's hunting dog on public land,should I use exposed bait and risk catching birds of prey and vultures,these are all questions that come up during a trapping season that involve ethics.Young trappers and older trappers,new to trapping,will be challenged by these decisions this trapping season and should always make legal,ethical choices they know to be correct,common sense answers to the situation at hand.If there is any doubt,do nothing at that time and ask an experienced trapper or call LDWF,if the problem needs to be dealt with on that level.Do not hesitate to get on this site and ask questions,there are many experienced,ethical trappers,who will be more than happy to steer you in the right direction with any problem you may encounter in the field with trapping or ethics.It is a wonderful thing that we live in a country that still allows us to legally pursue the tradition of fur trapping and our ability to practice this sport in a legal, ethical manner will insure its future for generations of trappers,who will follow in our footsteps.The respect and honor that trappers exhibit towards each other and the sport we love,will be the light the general public will view us in,let us be a shining example of all that is good about trapping in the public's eye,we are all ambassadors of trapping,take this responsibility seriously.Good luck this season and always remember the Golden Rule.



Most Intelligent Furbearer
November 15, 2011
Though, I have not trapped all the furbearers in the Lower 48,I have trapped the majority of them at one time or another, either here or in New Mexico and I have theories on the intelligence or IQ's of the furbearers I have caught or not caught in some cases.I believe the canines as a group are the most intelligent, and the size of their brains seems to come into play. Wolves seem to be very intelligent, even more so than coyotes, which are famous for being the trickster of the American West and can confuse trappers on the East side of the Big River, also.I have never caught a wolf in my flashy bobcat sets out West, but coyotes, mostly young of year, do fall for them frequently. Sly as a fox is an old saying for a very good reason, they are very intelligent and individual foxes can really try your trapping patience at times, but I feel they are still behind the coyotes in general, when it comes to awareness and intelligence. Raccoons are next as far as my experience, they are as intelligent as a monkey at times and their memories and power to reason seems to rival humans at times. Never underestimate the intelligence of a raccoon, they can make a fool of you on your own trapline, but eventually they will be caught, trappers are smarter than raccoons, the majority of the time. Otters are next in my experience, I like to refer to them as the coyotes of the water, they can reason and they have very good memories. It amazes me the things they learn from the older otters and pass on to their offspring, but they will change behavioral patterns, when a trapper enters into the equation and upsets the normal patterns of life. Beavers are next in my experience and can get educated quickly by trappers and the intelligence they exhibit in dam construction and creation of wildlife habitat is unequaled in the animal kingdom. Next in line are bobcats, they are intelligent, capable killing machines, but I feel they have short attention spans and their memories are limited to some degree, they can pass a set up one time, then get caught the next time through, they are as unpredictable as women, so that still might make them smarter than men, most times. Skunks are next, they have small brains, but, they can be as curious and intelligent as raccoons at times and know when to use their secret weapon when necessary.Mink would be next by default to possums and nutrias,that would be at the bottom of the class.Mink are easily caught in blind trail sets and really get overactive during the breeding season,which is the downfall of many species.I will put possums over nutrias,when it comes to intelligence,though neither has ever shown much intellectual brilliance on my trapline.They both willingly fill up my best sets,whether the possums on land in my predator sets or the nutrias in the water in my otter and beaver sets.In my opinion,furbearers are a lot like humans,certain individuals of every species exhibit almost a genius type intelligence,at times,while other individual animals of the same species,young of year especially,are easily caught by trappers with no problems.It is these very intelligent individuals of every species that create legends and make trapping a much more interesting and dynamic endeavor season after season.I welcome these unique challenges and feel they further my trapping I.Q. and are the ultimate measure of who I truly am as a trapper.Good luck this season and welcome the challenge of an individual,intelligent furbearer,they will be the best trapping instuctor you will ever have.

Beaver Dams
November 12, 2011
When talking about location,location,location,one location that should never be ignored are the habitats created by beavers and their construction of dams on any waterway in an area that you trap.There is the obvious opportunity it creates for beaver harvest,but it also creates areas where otter,muskrat,and here in Louisiana, nutria,can also be taken in these fur friendly habitats.Because of their critical location and essential necessity to this habitat,the dams themselves are pinpoint locations,that can be set to take furbearers,both swimming across them in the water and crossing them as bridges on land,a hot location for all furbearers,that should never be ignored.Some states consider them critical,in that they pose an unfair advantage to trappers and their regulations prevent trappers from setting a certain distance from these dams,both on land and in the water,this is not the case in Louisiana and trappers should take advantage of this opportunity,anytime this situation presents itself.Otters and beaver can be taken easily in conibears,snares,or large foothold traps on drowners at dam crossovers,dam break sets,or the narrow channels just below the dams,these water furbearers will all funnel through the dam location,eventually.On land,all the local furbearers will use the dams as bridges,bobcats,raccoons,mink,fox,and coyote,as the dam crossing acts as a funnel to direct these furbearers to your well made sets on both sides of the dam.You can make blind trail sets on the dam,but most times,I set for otter there and not wishing to disturb these otter sets,I will make land sets for the animals crossing the dams.You can construct dirt hole,flat,and scent post sets for predators on the high ground trails that lead down to the dams or these trails can be set with snares or blind set conibears.Conibears work well here for coons,in the brushy trails,if there is no chance of incidental catches,always be aware of this possibility and use another type of set,a blind trail set or an exposed walk through set is a good alternative set here.These dam locations are excellent locations for trash pile sets for bobcats and coyotes,using a staked down beaver or nutria carcass,covered with grass,leaves,brush,or branches,sometimes they can be concealed in a convenient briar patch located close to the trails leading to the dams,always cover them well to avoid unwanted incidental catches of birds of prey and vultures.Mink,as well as coon, can be taken at the water's edge around the dams in baited pocket sets with #1 1/2 coilspring traps,stake well,as otter will investigate these sets,also.I like to use 110 conibears in the small mink trails in the brush above the dams, these are the best sets and they will be concealed from the scavengers, that feast on them,most times.Keep in mind,all types of water crossings are furbearer funnels,bridges,culverts,large and small crossing logs,shallow fording crossings,and even a place where two trees,growing on opposite sides of a watercourse,whose branches intertwine above midstream,a good coon crossing,make excellent set locations for furbearers as well as the trails that lead to them on both sides of the stream and should never be ignored as possible set locations. Through the years,I have taken many hundreds of different types of furbearers at beaver dam and stream crossing locations,these fur funnels are prime locations and will be for many years,after I am long gone. Good luck this season and never curse a beaver dam, it is a blessing in disguise.

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556348
06/15/19 05:51 PM
06/15/19 05:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
My Combination Bobcat Set
November 1, 2011
Sometimes,a trapper is able to combine two different types of sets into one set that will employ two traps that work in two very different ways to catch the same animal.Out West,I first started making flashy walk through sets for bobcats,as I had read about in books and on my second check I caught my first New Mexico tom,it was two weeks before I connected again.After a few seasons,I noticed some bobcats were walking past my flashy sets,after stopping to investigate,but not working them.To cure this situation,I came up with my combination walk through-blind trail set solution to this problem.I will find a very suitable bobcat set location and construct my usual flashy walk through bobcat set with an attractor,which is my typical bobcat set out West.But,in this set I also add a trash pile,small sticks,leaves,and/or brush,between the main trail and my flashy walk through set,with the edge of the trash pile on the edge of the main trail.At this point on the trail I will usually put a blind trail set or an exposed walk through set,if the weather is very nasty,on a drag,usually this is a natural type drag, a small log or larger tree branch,which will help to block off the other side of the trap and force the curious but non-committed bobcat over my trap.My flashy walk through set trap is usually anchored behind the set to a tree with my eight foot cable extensions in such a way that when it catches,the animal will tangle up behind the set and allow the blind set trap in the trail to still be ready for action.Conversely,when the blind trail set trap hits first,the bobcat makes his initial leap away from the set area and hopefully tangles the drag up a short distance away from the flashy walk through set.You can make the blind trail set into a subtle walk through set by adding urine or lure to the edge of your trash pile on the trail or you can place a little bait under the trash pile,favoring the trail side of the trash pile,but it is truly not necessary,since the furbearer should be left with only two options,a path through your flashy walk through set or the regular trail,which has been blocked down at the point of your trash pile and your natural drag.I have even thought of putting two blind trail set traps on the trail on two separate drags,I truly love experimenting with different combinations of sets.I know young of the year kittens travel with their mothers well into the trapping season and later during breeding season in January and February and into March,the large toms will be paired up with the in-season females.I had never seen this set discussed,until I bought Tom Krause's bobcat video and sure enough,there it was or very close to it,I guess all us old trappers wind up in the same place eventually,if we keep at it long enough,be warned.As I have said before,my flashy,walk through bobcat sets can border on ridiculous,especially when I get to thinking and experimenting,but in this set I feel I have something for both the aggressive,curious bobcat and something for the cautious,unconcerned bobcat,either way I have a shot at them both and if things go as planned,after one is caught,there will still be another set remaining to take the second bobcat that happens along this trail at a very good bobcat location,let's not forget about location.This is a complicated set and not meant for high numbers of coyote or fox,though it will take some,it is a bobcat set for the high dollar western bobcats,which can bring up to $500 for a large tom bobcat,taking the time to construct it can be well worth your while,especially if you take a double.I have not done it yet with this particular set,but I can see the potential and I will have a few set again this season out West,with the hope of connecting.It is truly a joy to catch two western bobcats in one day or doing it two days in a row or three times in a week,I know the feeling well and I love it.If you have some extra time this year on your line and you want to catch a certain bobcat,take the time to try my combination bobcat set and see if it will do the trick here in Louisiana,$100 a bobcat is not bad for a Louisiana bobcat,put up,that is what some Louisiana trappers got for their bobcats at auction at the end of last season.Good luck,keep an eye out for those bobcat tracks.

Chicken Post Set

October 29, 2011
Believe it or not,this is a classic set from the days of old and a set that should be in the trapper's hall of fame,simply because of the sheer number of furbearers it has taken through the years and the ease with which it is constructed.Just as its name implies,all a trapper has to do is staple a chicken to a fence post,preferably a corner post on location and place a trap under it,most times buried and concealed,but a lot of new trappers in the old days did not even bother and caught fox,raccoon,bobcat,and coyote,out West.In most states this set is not now legal for being exposed bait,nor would it be very ethical due to the number of birds of prey that would be attracted to and caught in it.It is a legal set in Louisiana and can still be successfully used if you make some common sense modifications to your trap set-up.First,you need to cover up the chicken if you want to use a whole chicken and hang it from a post or a tree.At the very least,you should cover it with tree branches or moss,so that it is not visible from above by birds of prey and vultures,and it should be elevated to keep it out of reach to the possums,but it can also be staked to the ground and covered,for an excellent trash pile bobcat set,if no corner post is available.Personally,I would use two traps,both on drags set in opposite directions,hoping that the first incidental would hit one trap and leave the immediate set area,leaving the second trap ready for the predator to come by next,but this is trapping and things seldom happen perfectly and two possums would probably be the rule and not the exception here in Louisiana,until you thinned them out.It would be a very good idea to include one or two other different types of sets,flat or scent post,in the general area of the chicken post set,they have a way of attracting company when they catch.The chicken can also be substituted by any other bait,rabbits,squirrels,rats,whole or partial skinned catches from your trapline,beaver,nutria,bobcat,or possum,you get the general idea,always keeping the bait concealed to some degree to avoid birds.This is not a set for long lining and maximum fur production,but in certain situations it can produce a bobcat or fox,by providing an inviting meal in an area that may be hard to pinpoint them,a corner fence post in a very woody area comes to mind.The same principle can be used for mink and coon in the swamp at the water's edge,by tacking a fish head or other bait to a tree with a trap placed in the water below it,once again it would be wise to cover it with a large leaf,moss,or a small,leafy twig,I find owls are bad in these locations.You can also place a large,covered bait staked down on the far end of a log that extends into the water at the edge of the swamp and set a trap in a notch on the log,or a snare or larger conibear trap,predators will most times walk the log to get to it,especially bobcats,foxes,and raccoons.Be aware that a lot of the sets from the past are not legal today because of the more ethical,humane regulations that are now the law,but it does not mean that they cannot be modified to meet the letter and intent of the new regulations.Be smart,if in doubt do not make the set,choose a set you know to be legal,be confident,they will work,too.Always try to remember to use more than one set at a good location and try to use different types of sets,variety is the spice of life.Good luck this season.

Trash Pile Set and Hay Sets
November 2, 2011
I have combined these two types of sets because they are essentially the same set,the trash pile set is more of a bobcat set,used in locations with more cover,while the hay set is usually used in an open field with canines as their primary targets.I find these sets really shine as the weather gets nasty in the winter and they can be used on top of the ground as a type of freeze proof set,with a minimum of bedding and a sifted trap covering of ground duff or fine hay particles.The trash pile set ideally imitates a bobcat kill that has been covered up and promises an easy meal to a hungry furbearer,that is looking for a meal in the harsh conditions of winter.There are several ways to construct this set and it holds the curiosity and eye appeal factor,even if there is no bait covered there.I find it is best to stake down your bait,if you do use bait and beaver,nutria,bobcat,or deer parts are usually my bait of choice in these sets,but a commercial or homemade predator bait will work well,just be sure to try to place it in a hole past your trap or traps,near the center of your trash pile,make them work for it.I like to place my trash pile set close to a trail,I know bobcats are using and I like to try to block off the trash pile on three sides with trees,brush,or small logs or branches and force them to access the bait from the trail side,over my well concealed trap or traps,usually on drags in an attempt to preserve the set area,but at times,I will anchor my extension cable to a nearby tree,if I am only using one trap.These are excellent bobcat sets,remakes are easy and you are able to use covered bait,which is legal in most states and reduces the incidental catches.The hay pile set is more of an open field canine set and it is also a freeze proof,eye appeal set,that is used a lot in the agricultural states in the Midwest.Once again,you can stake bait down and cover it with hay or you can use commercial bait and lure to simulate a hay pile left in the field,that now is a home for mice or other small critters.It should be located at a location that has a lot of canine traffic,but the eye appeal is truly the beauty of this set,especially in an open field,at the very least they will want to scent mark it and when they smell the bait they will investigate more thoroughly and find your trap.You should try to construct your hay set in a manner that creates an opening,on the trail side into the center of the hay pile,where the bait is located and over your concealed trap.Since these sets are usually located in open fields,it is usually best to stake them down with rebar or ground anchors.If they are located closer to cover at the edge of the field,you could use two traps on separate drags,hidden in the hay pile and possibly double on that one hay set.Once again,you are only limited by your imagination and creativity,take advantage of double catches,when the opportunity presents itself,be aware.Remakes are very easy,just rake up the hay and reuse the same trap,the smells of the caught animal will make it that much more interesting to the canines.These are not high production sets for long lining,but they can be very valuable in the winter time,they can be set as freeze-proof sets,even in the open fields and they provide the hungry furbearers with an easy source of food,at a time when it is most needed,take advantage of this need.When you think about it,curiosity can be just as big a factor in canine trapping as it is in bobcat trapping,it just gets less publicity and its importance is not stressed enough in my opinion.Good luck and when the weather gets really nasty this winter,try to remember these two proven sets.

Walk Through Sets
October 31, 2011
It is hard to talk about blind trail sets without mentioning walk through sets,essentially it is a type of blind trail set or mini-flat set with something added to entice the furbearer to take a few extra steps in the area of your trap as he travels down a trail on his normal routine rounds.Anything can be added to achieve this result and they can be very successful taking animals that are set-shy or are preoccupied with other matters and not interested in your other more flashy dirt hole or bobcat sets,with an attractor.Most times I will simply add a dropping and urine to the side of the trail,a small mouse hole with lure or bait,a small bone almost completely buried with lure and/or urine,or maybe a foot concealed in a small hole or placed under a rock or log that is right off the trail with a shot of urine and/or lure,just something to catch the animal's nose and slow him down in the area of my trap,as he investigates the concealed odor.I find I catch more coyotes in these sets,simply because there are more coyotes out West and they travel the most when compared to bobcats and grey fox,but they are also vulnerable to these types of sets,the "less is more",subtle approach.On trails with more traffic from cattle,deer,or elk,I simply bed my trap a step or two off to the side of the trail and place a stick,a piece of brush or grass,or a few rocks between my trap and the main trail and create an interesting one step detour for the animal to investigate the interesting smell located on the outside of the trail detour,as long as it is not too far out of the way they will slow down and take the detour,try to locate the set on the prevailing wind side of the trail,if possible.The beauty of these types of sets are that they can be located at any convenient place on the trail,look for small,natural detours and side step areas in the trails,these are ideal set locations and you do not have to find exact spots or create them as is necessary with blind trail sets,you only need the furbearers to be traveling on that trail.As I said before,these sets take set-shy and preoccupied animals,most times these are the larger male coyotes and older tom bobcats,especially during the breeding season,curiosity seems to get the best of them for a minute or so and that is all it takes to put them in your well bedded,concealed trap.Good luck,and do not forget these subtle walk through sets when you cannot find that perfect blind trail set location,they are a simple,effective substitute.

Blind Trail Sets
October 30, 2011
As you all know by now,I started off trapping long ago with my Grandfather,who only used blind trail sets on the cypress logs and at the edge of the swamps with his "ground sets" around the trees at the water's edge.Most of my trapping career,I have also relied on blind trail sets and the vast majority of the thousands of furbearers I have taken were taken in some type of blind set,be it in the water or on land,they have been too successful to ever be ignored or even be dismissed as a lesser choice as a productive set option.Realizing this truth and making a concerted effort to master and become an accomplished blind trail set trapper,will be one of the things that will elevate you to a level of trapping that has been lost to most modern trappers and trapping.Yes,dirt holes,flat sets,and scent post sets are a staple of every successful modern trapper and many water trappers catch furbearers in lured and baited pocket sets and castor mounds,but each will take his craft to the next level by mastering the art of blind trail setting.On land,I like to look for features in a trail that force every furbearer to place their foot in the same exact spot,every time they travel that same trail,their tracks will show you where these spots are.Look for features that force them to change the gait of their footsteps,rocks or exposed roots,fallen limbs or logs,briars or brush,and small depressions,low spots,or small drainage features,that are located on the trails that you see their tracks on,put your trap at the spot of the footprint,it is that simple.If you find a well traveled trail with none of these features,use your imagination to recreate these types of features yourself,you will be surprised how well your designed trail set locations will work,sometimes better than the natural ones.Some trappers like to use two traps in these blind trail sets,I will too,if I think the situation justifies it,a large male bobcat track is one example and if you place them both on drags,you may have the opportunity to take more than one furbearer at the same set location.I will use exposed walk through sets at times in certain locations and when the weather gets nasty,it is a type of blind set,as the uncovered trap is camouflaged by the sticks and rocks you use to surround them and force the animal to step on the pan of your trap.Snares could also be considered blind trail sets and should never be ignored as a very valuable tool to harvest fur in certain locations and under certain weather conditions.Some accomplished blind trail set trappers have theories they have developed that involve three and five step patterns to calculate and force the furbearer to step on their concealed traps,it involves placing stepping guides that force the animal to be very deliberate in his foot placement.I am a three step proponent,it is simpler,but I one day hope to graduate to the five step level.As you can see,something so simple as a blind trail set can be very detailed,when you get into the intricacies of the subject,another example of why one man will never know all that is to be known about trapping.I started out with blind trail sets and I have caught every furbearer with them at one time or another and I will continue to hone my skill as a blind trail set trapper until I leave this world and I will guarantee you the first set I will make when I get to the big trapline in the sky,will be a blind trail set on a notched cypress log,with my Grandfather at my side nodding his head in approval.Good luck,and never forget the value of a blind trail set,when you find that perfect set location or you run out of lure or bait.

Selling Your Fur
October 12, 2011
In my fifty years of trapping,my method of selling my fur has gone from stretching and drying and selling to the local fur buyer when I was very young with my Grandfather in the 1950's to stretching and drying my fur in New Mexico and selling at the New Mexico Trappers' Association sale in the twenty-first century,what a long,strange trip it has been.I can remember my Grandfather stretched and dried his mink,coon,and otter and stored them in his old smoke house,the coon were stretched square.The fur buyer would come by his house two or three times a season and buy his fur,while the black men would come by to buy the coon meat.When I started to seriously trap in the early 1980's,we would case skin our animals,wrap them in newspaper and put them in the freezer.On a cool day we would take them out of the freezer and hang them out to defrost.The next day we would put them in an ice chest and take them to the fur buyer,there were two fur buyers within a half hour's drive from us.In the 1990's,after my Grandfather passed away,I would sell some of my nutria whole to a local furbuyer everyday on my way home,sometimes he would take all my coons,if he had orders for coon meat.I would skin most of my animals and freeze them to be sold later to the same fur buyer or another buyer near Alexandria,it all depended on who was giving the most for otter,my most valuable furbearer.Today,there are very few local furbuyers left in Louisiana and trappers are once again stretching and drying their fur to increase their options for sale of their pelts.Some trappers still case skin and freeze and sell to the few state furbuyers,but a growing number of trappers are shipping their stretched and dried pelts to auction houses in Canada or buyers in other states by private sale.In New Mexico,I stretch and dry my bobcats and grey fox and sell at the state trappers' association sale,no furbuyer in New Mexico will buy green fur,it all must be stretched and dried.On my way home at season's end I will stop and sell to a furbuyer in Albuquerque,N.M.,these are the fur that I caught in the two weeks after the association sale.There are many options to selling your catch,for the first few seasons it is easy to case skin and freeze your catch and sell to a Louisiana furbuyer,but later you may choose to stretch and dry and have more choices to market your fur.How you handle your fur will be what determines the value of your fur,always take your time skinning,keep your fur clean and fresh,and freeze it in plastic grocery bags,trying to defrost it one day and selling early the next morning to the furbuyer.Green fur in Louisiana does not bring top dollar,but your fur check will help to cover some of your expenses as you learn the trapping game and do not forget that the raccoon meat is always in demand if you try to develop a local market for it.

Denning Coyotes

April 11, 2012
This is the time of year out West,that coyote ADC men do some of their most effective coyote control work,it is the denning season.Essentially,it involves a trapper locating the den sites,that mated pairs of coyotes are using and concentrating their efforts in an attempt to eradicate an alpha coyote male and female and their new litter from the food chain.Due to their dedication and loyalty to their litter,the mature coyotes can be very vulnerable to many different methods,that experienced coyote "denners" use.First,a trapper must locate the den sites and this can be done by scouting and observing the local coyote population,most times dens will be used by the same pair from one season to the next,but they will have secondary dens and will rely on them if they feel threatened by a trapper and his efforts to capture them or if the primary denning site becomes infested with fleas and other parasites.Locating is also done with an electronic call or siren,either early in the morning or late in the afternoon,the young pups usually cannot resist the urge to answer and the older pair will be very interested in anything strange in their denning area,especially the bark or howl of a strange canine.After locating the den,a trapper has some options,one being setting traps and snares in the general area of the den site,but not too close,try to set the trails leading to and from the denning area,dirt hole sets with bait and scent post sets or subtle flat sets with a dropping and urine would be my choices in this situation.Some trappers will have a trained decoy dog to run out and be a visible threat to the mated coyotes and they can be shot as they run out to "greet" the decoy dog.I have seen videos where the coyotes would follow the decoy dog out into the open and right up to the waiting shooter and his vehicle,it seems they are totally concentrated on the threat of the decoy dog and are unaware of the threat from the shooter.After taking the alpha pair and any other members of the pack helping with the puppy chores,you will be left with the pups in the den.Some trappers will have a "den dog" to go into the den and kill or drive the pups from the den,others will dig them out and kill them.Some trappers will have pressurized cylinders of gas,usually carbon monoxide or carbon dioxide or a combination of both,that they will lower into to den to kill the pups,everything is done out of sight and underground,especially if the pups are very young.There are efforts in some states to ban "denning",but in most states out West it can be one of,if not the best way,to deal with coyote predation,especially at this time of the year,when the denning pair of coyotes are in the ultra-kill mode in an effort to feed and protect their litter of hungry,growing pups.It is at this time of the year that ranchers and sheep men experience some of the largest losses of calves and lambs due to coyote predation.These paired killing machines can also take a toll on deer,elk,and antelope fawns,another reason to target them at this time.If you are having coyote problems or you have done coyote ADC work for someone with a bad predation problem,this is a good time of the year to consider denning coyotes as a valuable part of your coyote predation control plan.Good luck and do not forget that coyote predation is a year round problem,anywhere they are located.

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556372
06/15/19 06:39 PM
06/15/19 06:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
I think that’s about half.


I’ll get the rest up in the near future. There’s a lot to digest

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556380
06/15/19 07:04 PM
06/15/19 07:04 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,734
Northern Illinois
M
MChewk Offline
trapper
MChewk  Offline
trapper
M

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,734
Northern Illinois
Great reading ...Thank you

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556538
06/15/19 10:04 PM
06/15/19 10:04 PM
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,726
SW Georgia
W
Wanna Be Offline
trapper
Wanna Be  Offline
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W

Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,726
SW Georgia
That’s like reading all the archives in one post! Thanks! May not be for the experienced trappers, but to us new guys it’s like finding your first coyote in a trap! Excellent info!

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556805
06/16/19 11:49 AM
06/16/19 11:49 AM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 424
Covington, VA
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Dewey S Offline
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Dewey S  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 424
Covington, VA
I miss NR’s posts. Seems he was flooded out a few years ago if I remember correctly and never got back on Tman.

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556938
06/16/19 03:34 PM
06/16/19 03:34 PM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 9,132
SWMo.
T
tjm Offline
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tjm  Offline
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T

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Posts: 9,132
SWMo.
I don't think he has posted since the flood, was never quite sure he came out of that. Thanks for posting this Aix sponsa.

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6556968
06/16/19 04:38 PM
06/16/19 04:38 PM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,954
RI / MN
C
Cameron Kelsey Offline
trapper
Cameron Kelsey  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,954
RI / MN
I always enjoyed N-R's posts. He and I even exchanged a few private messages. Seemed like a great guy. I was thinking of him some weeks back and wondered how he was doing. I even considered starting a thread to see if anyone knew how he was.

Aix sponsa are you still in contact with him? If so how is he doing? I would love to see him post again, and I hope all is well.


CWO4, SC, US Navy
Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6557001
06/16/19 05:26 PM
06/16/19 05:26 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Cameron, I haven’t spoken with him in a long time. The last time I saw him he gave me four dozen victors still in the box. Great guy.

I need to give him a call. I’ve been meaning to give him a call to compare notes with him anyway


Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6557011
06/16/19 05:39 PM
06/16/19 05:39 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,734
Northern Illinois
M
MChewk Offline
trapper
MChewk  Offline
trapper
M

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,734
Northern Illinois
Aix if you do ask him how he trapped with roaming feral animals around and if he had deal with sheep/cattle when predator trapping... would love to hear his insight

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6585121
07/31/19 01:52 PM
07/31/19 01:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
To the top

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6585380
07/31/19 09:50 PM
07/31/19 09:50 PM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,954
RI / MN
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Cameron Kelsey Offline
trapper
Cameron Kelsey  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,954
RI / MN
Originally Posted by Aix sponsa
Cameron, I haven’t spoken with him in a long time. The last time I saw him he gave me four dozen victors still in the box. Great guy.

I need to give him a call. I’ve been meaning to give him a call to compare notes with him anyway



Have you talked to N-R Trapper by chance?


CWO4, SC, US Navy
Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6585961
08/01/19 06:59 PM
08/01/19 06:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
Aix sponsa Offline OP
trapper
Aix sponsa  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,294
Louisiana
I haven’t, but I’m going to call him by the end of the weekend. I’ll tell him people have asked about him

Re: Trapping Experiences: GK 1 [Re: Aix sponsa] #6968659
08/19/20 06:02 PM
08/19/20 06:02 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 11,774
Amite county Mississippi
Wolfdog91 Offline
trapper
Wolfdog91  Offline
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Posts: 11,774
Amite county Mississippi
Ttt

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