I am reposting this for anyone that wants to build torps. These instructions are for a standard torp. The snare is anchored separately. This is different from the all in one torpedo, but we aren’t going to worry about it right now.

I learned about floating log snare sets from Newt Sterling while I was at his place in New Jersey. I loved the set, but I didn’t want to have to carry in logs into areas where they weren’t nearby. This got me thinking...a pvc pipe, spray foam, and some weight to make it float upright should do the same thing but be reusable and easier to carry. Beaver Torpedos were born. There’s also an all in one torpedo, but I’d rather not focus on that for right now.

Torp Material List

2” or larger PVC (If you use larger pvc, it will be more forgiving)

PVC caps: 2

1/2” rebar: 18”

Spray Foam

Eye screw for attaching extension or sliding rebar through. Something like minimum 1/4” diameter, 1” length with 3/4” eye. Eye bolt may be substituted for eye screw.

PVC Glue (optional, but recommend)


Directions

Cut PVC to desired length (I prefer 2” pvc cut 18” long. Can be shorter or longer. Can also use larger diameter PVC. 3 or 4” would be an excellent choice. I use 2” schedule 40 just because it’s cheaper and works for me)

Cut rebar to length of PVC.

Put eye screw into one cap. For best results, it should be as low as possible.

Put one cap on PVC pipe. Insert rebar.

Fill with foam.

Place cap (with eye screw) on PVC

Place on ground outside with the eye screw as low as possible. The rebar will also settle at the lowest point.


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A day or two later, once foam has cured, float it. Mark the dorsal side. When you add support wire, you’re wanting to keep the wire and snare as close to this as possible. It plays a part in the balancing-upright.

Add extension cable so that you don’t lose it. Remember that weight isn’t all bad. Weight is great, as long as it’s in the right place, and it isn’t too much.

Once completed, Float it with your snare. If it doesn’t remain upright, fa-niggle positioning of the snare and support wire. If that doesn’t keep it upright, let me know, because I can help you correct it.


2” caps cost less than larger sizes, and I didn’t have problems with it. However, i have little doubt that 3” would handle heavier snares better, because it would allow you to add more weight for the ballast.


Add a dab of your favorite castor lure on the end of the torp and, if your regs allow it, set your snare so that it’s 1/2 submerged. If your regs don’t allow 1/2 submerged snares, then try to get the regs changed if you want to use torps as designed...I prefer a little less than 1/2 submerged, but that’s another story.


I’ll add better pictures and edit the post when I get a little more time




Good luck

Wow. Just wow. I would have never thought of this. Please archive this design.

What size snare are you using with this?

I must be missing something here. Are you using this set up to deal with fluctuating water levels?

The picture above is the first time I ever set one. Setup like that, it probably wouldn’t handle fluctuating water levels well rigged as it is in that picture. It would definitely need more room on the stake. However, if you rig it with an extension cable or put the stake through the center in such a way to let it rise and fall, then you could do it that way.


I’ll post additional pictures when I can. Other people have posted pictures of their versions as well. It’s just an idea, and I’ve always enjoyed seeing how others have taken it and made it better.

My favorite late spring nuisance beaver, right there. Teats up!

I saw one of these at Newt's school this past winter.

I made a couple for farm pond beavers. I had to paint mine because when white every redneck with a rifle uses them for target practice.

Different variation. Gives about 24 inches of vertical fluctuation

I really like that one. That looks like it’ll work very well, and the entanglement is right there.


Thanks for sharing !

I'll have to give this a try. i liked how you showed us how to do this at Minktoberfest last fall

So what are we looking at? Is that a double snare set up, that also anchors to the rebar as a drowner set up as well? Pretty ingenious, I like it.

Why don't you guys use that black PVC stuff It's a lot cheaper and It's black.
Pretty ingenious but it seems a bit over the top to be catching $8.00 beaver. LOL

Eat the meat, save the castors, give the hide away and you're about at 40$

ADC situations, maybe $500 beaver. Skys the limit.

I guess I'm a slow learner. Why not just drive a re bar stake in the water use It as a stabilizer and a staking device and hang a snare.
We use to just staple a snare to a tree smear some castor on the tree and let the beaver swim around the tree and In to the snare. Works pretty good and Is very simple.

I can see the PVC thing If your dealing with rising water situations but If not what's the point In using a PVC float?

I'm not a beaver trapper but me likes that outside the box thinking. Thanks for sharing.

Hay Aix, you reckonn a fella could use something like this on muskrat and nutria ? Down sized mabye?

yes it's made to set a snare on each end and anchor them to the rebar.
Rebar is 6 ft . Made it to set in about 4 ft of water.
That float was built for a particular nuisance job. Water fluctuated so much snares needed to be adjusted daily to keep them operating . Add in an educated beaver and I needed something that I could set and monitor from a distance. My favorite setup is a rebar with two snares on top set in a wide run.

I’m not sure. Someone that knows more about their habits would be a better person to ask. One thing about beaver is they’re so responsive to good lure. I don’t know enough about nutes and rats to say much about it.

I believe Jonesie was going to give it a try on muskrats.