Kroil here too!

X2
Absolutely the best there is. 50/50 mix. I'm sure the only reason this mixture is not on the market is because you have to shake it before using.
It works SO much better than any of the commercial products at releasing rusted nuts and bolts it's almost a miracle, plus it's a whole lot cheaper.

I used this mixture recently to take apart a nearly 100 year old mine car that had been underground is a wet environment for about 80 years. The nuts and bolts looked hopeless, everyone loosened up with no heat or cussing after treating with the 50/50 mixture.

The science (as described to me) behind the acetone and synthetic ATF is that the acetone is an extremely small molecule wetting agent that carries the extremely small molecule synthetic ATF. Apparently the synthetic ATF is better than non-synthetic in this regard.

I was taught many years ago, to heat a seized bolt just till the penetrant will smoke when applied but not burn off and dry. That will suck the magic juice in the threads like sweating solder into a copper pipe joint. ATF and Acetone is the best I have found. Better products exist for lubrication or rust protection, but for frozen, rusted or corroded threads nothing is better.

Yup that does it. I put it in a bump spray bottle. I also have those bottles fro Marvel mystery oil, Ballistol and a lanolin alcohol mix. Horses for courses

Loosening a stuck bolt is an art. Crack it loose if you can and then spray it with whatever penetrating oil you want. Let it sit for a while, and then slowly work it back and forth, this will work the oil down the threads. Soak and repeat . After that point, heat and vibration are your friends.

I second that, and PB stinks like heck. Good product but if a can is in the shop. I’ll walk out of there smelling like it.

Kroil is the best I have used too.

I use whatever I find first but I lean towards the Kroil first then PB blaster 2nd I'll have to try the atf and acetone the other trick is to tighten the stuck bolt or nut first just a hair then try to remove it has helped me over the year's.

I like to just break off rusty bolts so i have to drill em out. I like extra work LOL. Well that seems my track record with them anyway. Ive been amazed at what a torch can do for rusty bolts. Ive honestly never had good luck with penetrating oils doing much. pb blaster sure helps if the threads are exposed on a nut and bolt type situation and it helps a rusty bolt go back in alot easier. Next time i may try this atf and acetone if i remember.

And now I will throw my vote in........ you will all call me crazy.


Dollar Genral sells a can of "DG Lube" for a couple bucks. Try it and be amazed. I have seen it break loose rusted engines in minutes.

#1 for me

We've used PB blaster for several years but have switched to a BG product called In-force. It doesn't dry near as fast as blaster when soaking, and penetrates really well.

Of course in my youth everything got Liquid Wrench like grampa used. Didn't know there were even other things for years.. Then my one mechanic guy got me started on BP Blaster and I have a can of that here. Friend of my son that works for a company that sell materials and equipment to contractors. Gave me a can of what is supposed to be latest greatest...Fluid Film..Seems to work pretty good..Was recently beating the bearing out of the front of my truck. At the parts house and they sold me a can of Sea Foam Creep. Which seems to work very well also..
Being adventurous type I can see that in the future I will be using or at least trying . Acetone and ATF as I've found people here know lots of stuff that works......

Mac

And this is the best stuff for putting nuts and bolts together,,,,that you might want to remove years later... right here in NH.

MAC, That Deep creep is some good stuff

Its not really that difficult to understand how these products work and why the Acetone ATF mix works so well. You want the stuff to do 2 different things that are opposing each other. You want really low viscosity, so the stuff creeps ( capillary action ) as far as possible between the two parts you are trying to separate. And you want a thick viscosity so that the lubrication film holds together to do its job under the high pressures involved when the 200 pound monkey hangs on the end of a 10 foot wrench.
With the ATF acetone mix you can have both. It has very low viscosity when you squirt the stuff on the parts, then the acetone evaporates ( you have to give it that time ) and now you have the higher viscosity and strong lubricating film needed to make the parts slippery enough so you can move them.
Key is to wait til the acetone evaporates.
Reloaders will know this procedure from " One shot " or the alcohol and lanolin mix used for lubricating brass. If ya don't wait til the solvency has evaporated, you will end up with stuck cases.

The original, 3 in 1 penetrating oil.

Someone mentioned 1/2 cans of wd40 with no pressure. Look on u tube, repressuring cans with air nozzle. I have tried it , kind of works. old243

I buy penetrating oil in a gallon can, and then refill into old style oiler cans. Got tired of throwing away half full cans of WD 40.

Can you put acetone and atf in a plastic spray bottle ,or will it eat it up .