Is 8' long enough for a drowner... assuming a drop to 3' - 4' depth over that distance?

yes

I have a few 6 foot rods that work well. All depends on how deep you need to go and how soft the bottom is.

Yes, mine are 8' fiberglass tree stakes.

I like the max length I can fit diagonally in my 6.5 ft truck box so they're not hanging up and out lil over 7ft I believe... I used 5/8 rerod and a 4lb baseplate welded to #5 bridgers, takes the biggest to the bottom... Maybe overkill but tried 3/8 cold rolled they twisted it into a pretzel up on the bank then some deer hunter came by a blew the thing to pieces... I'll stick w/ over kill and not the rifle ha ha… I ended up sticking that 3/8 into a cement slab seemed to work good for that .. PS I usually use 90% 330's but feel the foot traps will add some of the biggest beaver as some have become shy of the box usually do to amateurs using sticks to support rather than a quality metal stabilizer and have the beaver push it over and blow up in their face... My thoughts, speaking of beaver I'd better get to skinning more for kitty bait...

Can someone post some pictures of some made from rebar thinking about making some and what material they used.

No pics but i just used 10ft 1/2"rebar and welded a fender washer 6" off one end as a spade/stop and a welded two 5/8"nuts at the top for the stakes and a death diamond lock

8' should be good in most instances
I make 10 footers, 3/8" smooth rod, and tote in a lil 32 yr old Toyota diagonally, with the loose end tied to the bumper and the front weighted down with a milk crate of 330's or other gear. gota have the red/orange flat on the loose end too.
In a shallow water set I can always run the xtra rod over the bank and secure end with wire, then t-stake at waters edge.

^^also been know to secure a 8 ft pc of 6" dia pvc pipe and slide them in that, like a sheath of sorts.

Made mine 8ft 3/8 rod, welded a 3/4 lock washer on one end and drilled a hole and drove a nail through for a stop. Locks were made out of 1 inch angle iron.

mine are similar to Bobs 1/8"x1.5x1.5 angle iron lock, a crosswise washer at the deep water end and heavier washer for t-staking at the top.

Use the bauer lock with a nut welded on a foot up a 10ft half inch rod. The trick is use a thin rod, maybe 1/8 inch make a small U and weld that to the top of your rod for your top stake. That way you can slide your lock off the top still attached to the trap, fast and easy.

In some of the areas I've trapped there is no bottom to secure the deep end. Lots of floating bog so the single pin at the top would basically be a pivot to pull the whole works off to the side and up on the bank and most likely a foot/ toe and a big one will and then you have the dreaded edumacated beaver.... That's why the 5/8 and rather than the nut welded at the top end I welded the biggest tree spike I believe 14" and then 10 inches down a washer welded to accommodate a rerod stake length as needed so as to double pin on the bank, the deep end I drilled a hole and put a pin thru and wire shut the open end so no chance is coming off. w/ that big heavy 5 bridger and 4lbs of baseplate and rerod that beaver has no leverage out there if he pulls it swings him back on the rest... I also outside laminated the jaws of the bridgers they set way easier over my knee and bed SOLID especially w/ that baseplate. The 750 is a good trap I had a dozen of them but they just don't bed like a longspring and those darn things have a tendency to flippem out of the pocket w/ those big hind feet... When I pull up a rerod I want some body weight attached and the bigger the better hope that helps I'd show some pics but they're in the back of my conex… They come out in spring time that's when I do most of my beavern

I use 7’ 3/8” rebar. I like to weld a fence staple to the stake end so when stake is removed the lock can slip over the end. I think it’s much easier to bed the trap, remove critters, push rod in, without the trap attached. Last thing I do is slide lock over staple and stake the rod down.

I use these rods for Coons a lot so they are plenty heavy for that. Beaver occasionally bend them up pretty good but they straighten out easy. I’m thinking of making a few out of 1/2” rebar just for spring Beaver trapping.

I have 2 stake points on the top side for all my drown rods to reduce the possibility of them pivoting back to the bank. If you can keep them in the water where they can not get tangled, they will be there even if the water is not deep enough.

The length used/needed all depends on the bank characteristics and how far you have to reach to get to drownable water. AND that varies greatly.

Make different lengths. I have 8-12 footers on hand at all times. I used the 12 footers here mostly and rarely use the 8s.

One thing I have found is it's rare I have too much rod. Its Very easy to over come a longer rod than too short.

That's what she said.

Great idea!

I have a couple "U" shaped 3/8" rebar stakes. I put one over drowning rod below stake and above drowning lock in areas that pull out of rod seems likely, sand, shallow etc. I might rig a couple like you describe as well.

I just really like being able to slide lock off stake end, makes it all easier for me, from transport to removal of critter and everything in between.