I made some using railroad spikes. Works good but I have a bunch of 22 inch t stakes. There made out of small smooth rod. I took a good size #11 wrapped very good around rod. Looks like they will work good.i can hammer in ground if I need too. That night I seen where Mark Steck posted on u tube a video. He had made some the same way I need mine. Ha Does anyone else use any of them?

Think ive used about every snare support out there. for pure supports, i like the U or h-type supports.

Those work Ok but In frozen ground they can be a pain. A rod with a washer welded about 4" from the bottom will take care of any twisting.
I use 3/8ths square steel stock for my supports.

Other than the #11 wire instead of #9 they will work ok. You'll want them completely in the ground or you'll get critters damaging their fur on the T top, thus #11 isn't stiff enough to support a snare firmly, off the ground high enough for large coons or fox, let alone coyotes. IMO you're better off to get one system that works and stick with it, but if you're like me you'll be too stubborn to listen to others and try a bunch of stuff before you find that system.

I'm not around my welder. I going to weld a washer up from bottom to keep from twisting. All I had on hand was #11. I used 5/64 cable with #11 with good luck no issue. When I order more supplies getting more #9 wire. I havent been snaring a long time. I am just trying different supports. I like the snare shop supports so far.

Bobcat trapper cut that 11 ga wire into 4' lengths then leave 3-4" of a tag end pointed down then wrap the T stake 2-3 times and when you hammer the stake into the ground the wire will go down far enough to not spin until you make a catch.

The 11 ga wire will hold a snare loop up as well as #9 wire even in high wind conditions like what we have here in Montana I make and sell snare supports with 11 ga wire that's helped many folks rack up some impressive catch numbers.

As for kill poles if you want to transport something that heavy and awkward I wish you well with a dispatch type snare they aren't necessarily or needed unless you just set snares next to a road or twin track so your not carrying them overly far which takes time away from possibly setting more snares and catching more fur, basically it's working smarter not harder.
I wish you well and catch a bunch !
Allan

I made my own with #9 wire 3’-4’ long i didnt measure just made them my length, and i welded a 20 penny nail to wire work great and when you get a catch they normally nock them down and outta the way. Can push them in thawed ground or drive them in frozen ground.

I found that once you weld wire to things that the wire becomes compromised and with a few bends It will break free of what you welded It to.

Annealed Wire is a trappers best friend,It is disposable,and cheap,and has tons of uses on the line.You can fix a lot of stuff with wire.The two most useful are 14 ga,commonly called re-bar wire,and 11ga,commonly called hay wire.Doubled 14ga wire can be used same as single strand 11 ga.Whichever wire you use,it needs changed or re-inforced on a regular basis.Wire that is no longer good for more critical applications is still useful for other applications like wiring up bait etc.
Any time I use wire(and I use it in a lot of applications)it gets checked closely after a catch and replaced or re-inforced when required.
I do not like using cable.it does not show when it rots(it rots from the inside out)and you wind up losing equipment and fur anchored with cable.
I have never lost fur due to wire failure.Trappers that lose fur to wire failure are lazy and don't do their due diligence,or are just not familiar with how to use wire properly.

Ive ran most of the same snare supports for over 5 years, lots of variables that may be causing your wire to work harden and break, welding heat, rapid cooling after weld, steel composition of your wire HC or LC. Ive never had issues of wire breaking where i spot weld it to a washer or nail.

If you're welding wire, wrap it a few times around the rod or rebar to take pressure off the weld if you're worried about the wire breaking.

If you are able to use them for water (beaver) & dryland them I think you'd have a very versatile device. I'm still working on the best cable support for my needs. Some of it is personal preference. For ex.: you have the option of attaching the support wire to a vertical device or having the support wire come up from the ground. I attended a demo where they said to use #9, but maybe you can make #11 work, I don't know. There seems to be no perfect support that everyone will agree on.

I use an 8 inch spike with about 3ft of 9guage welded to it then a washer 3inches up which prevents twisting ..I've never broken the wire off but I have broken the washer off when retrieving them in frozen ground ..most of the time I just wait till spring and go get them

One system I'm running on a river beaver line is 14-18" wood staked with 2holes drilled to accept #9 wire. Very stable, very light and don't need a router, just a drill.

I have a box of no-good welding rods that an 1/8" ferrel fits over, add #9 in the other hole and pound flat. The weld rod is stiffer so it's easier to pound into harder ground.

Do you guys really use 4 feet of wire per snare?

Bout 20" on my set up

I don't see people using 4' around here.

I use about a 5” piece of wire and like the setup I use. Lots of different ways to hang a snare, but there are better ways.

Yes, lots of different ways. I have a method that seems to work but I'm still not 100% sold on it so am open to new ideas.