Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: Okiecntry]
#6706632
12/26/19 06:35 PM
12/26/19 06:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 11,252 Maine, Aroostook
Posco
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 11,252
Maine, Aroostook
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Just degrease them and start using. Let them rust on their own time. Sure they won't be all even colored for a few years but as long as they are clean it doesn't matter. At least not to me. That's what I started doing. If the OP wants a really fast rust, soak them in muriatic acid for a bit followed by a baking soda rinse.
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6707076
12/26/19 11:37 PM
12/26/19 11:37 PM
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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 4,100 Bonner County, Idaho
Wild_Idaho
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 4,100
Bonner County, Idaho
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I'm certainly no expert on the matter as I'm pretty green, but I'm also on the no rust bandwagon. I degrease my traps, then descent/dye which turns new, degreased traps a flat gray-blue as Golf Ball said. Then wax. Then subsequent dyings and descenting baths get the traps darker. But they still rust.
Real name Eric The sharpest hammer in the box of crayons.
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6707111
12/27/19 12:00 AM
12/27/19 12:00 AM
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 7,084 MO
cfowler
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 7,084
MO
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I started to say something earlier about the no rust approach. It's what I do. But, I figured someone else would say the same thing and it'd be easier just to agree with them. Rust don't help a trap. I think they're pretty all dyed up and waxed. But it usually takes a few years on my line to get all the shiney knocked off so they'll take dye. When they're new, just wax 'em!
I trap for fun. I skin 'em for the money! Grinners For Life-Lifetime Member, MO Chapter, Den #1 ~You Grin, You're In~
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: cfowler]
#6707126
12/27/19 12:12 AM
12/27/19 12:12 AM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 25 Pa
Gcgtrapper
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 25
Pa
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I started to say something earlier about the no rust approach. It's what I do. But, I figured someone else would say the same thing and it'd be easier just to agree with them. Rust don't help a trap. I think they're pretty all dyed up and waxed. But it usually takes a few years on my line to get all the shiney knocked off so they'll take dye. When they're new, just wax 'em! X2
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6707166
12/27/19 01:31 AM
12/27/19 01:31 AM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 6,585 NC, Orange Co.
QuietButDeadly
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 6,585
NC, Orange Co.
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Rust is not a friend to traps or the trapper but unless you have good stainless steel, you are going to have rust also known as ferric oxide due to the reaction of the metal with moisture. Dying traps with a tannin such as longwood dye or walnut hulls or sumac or leaves or bark helps protect the trap by converting the ferric oxide to ferric tannate which somewhat seals the surface of the metal and does not react with moisture to create more rust. When the reaction occurs, its makes the surface dark gray to black, hence the term dye.
Traps that do not have rust on the surface, do not have the reaction so they are said not to take dye. If there is no rust on the trap, the process of dying them does not protect them. And sice most are bedded under ground, the color is not important either.
So, if you can keep your traps from rusting without creating an odor that is likely to cause refusals or digging. Manufacturers use oil to keep new traps from rusting but the oil has an odor that causes problems on most traps. Hence, degreasing to remove the odor, allowing a light coat of rust to form on the surface to react with the dye, followed by wax is a time tested method of prepping traps.
Are there other ways to prep new traps? Sure.....some just wax after degreasing, some use various dips, some paint. The point of treating the trap is to prevent or minimize the damage caused by rust. But like others have said, after use, you are going to have some rust regardless of how you try to prevent it. I have had traps powder coated but they get chipped and bare metal exposed and they start to rust too.
Life Member: NCTA, VTA, NTA, TTFHA, MFTI Member: FTA NRA NWTF
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6707177
12/27/19 02:17 AM
12/27/19 02:17 AM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,173 Rochester, MN
Teacher
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,173
Rochester, MN
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Clean oil off by blasting at car wash. Or wash in a bucket of warm water and Dawn. Rinse. Let dry. Spray paint a dark flat color. The cheapest dark spray paint you can get. Let dry a day or two and wax/coat. I use full metal jacket. Follow the directions. Then go use them.
Next spring, I’ll blast off old dip, etc at the car wash. Repaint as necessary, dry, dip, dry and stick in totes till I need them.
I don’t rust anything; coat everything and bury in dirt or grass at the set.
Never too old to learn
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6707213
12/27/19 06:16 AM
12/27/19 06:16 AM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 8,345 Firth, Nebraska
jabNE
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 8,345
Firth, Nebraska
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Yep, you wouldn't rust a good hammer or wrench, why would you ever want to rust a trap. Jim
Money cannot buy you happiness, but it can buy you a trapping license and that's pretty close.
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: Golf ball]
#6707614
12/27/19 02:52 PM
12/27/19 02:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,830 Wisconsin
The Beav
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,830
Wisconsin
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They don’t need rust ! Why does everyone try to rust a perfectly good trap ? Degrease them , dye them and wax them or just wax them . They work perfect without rust . Trust me they will rust over time without any help, if you start dyeing them when they are new they will get a kind of gray blue color . With time they will get darker every year that you dye them . This ^^^^^^^^^^^^ And there Is no reason to dye them. When doing so your just adding another smell to your traps. And when you wax over the dye the wax absorbs the dye smell. Clean and wax.
The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6709234
12/28/19 11:17 PM
12/28/19 11:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,960 Northern Nevada
Bob
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,960
Northern Nevada
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I’ve only ever waxed mine. I never saw the point of Rusting or dying traps that I’m going to bury. So far this season 20 coyotes have been dumb enough to step in them
"I have two guns, one for each of ya."
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: dirt trapper]
#6709718
12/29/19 01:11 PM
12/29/19 01:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459 Montana
Taximan
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459
Montana
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There are a million ways to treat traps and most work.I have been dying and waxing for 60 years and much prefer it,when done correctly.Dye needs an even coat of rust to work well,period.That light coat of rust doesn't hurt a thing and dyed properly,will be neutralized and won't advance.
I have dyed only and waxed only and again,done properly,dyed AND waxed,lasts and protects longer than either,alone.I have stashed dyed and waxed traps in the woods and they didn't need redone for 5-6 years.I used to go through the whole process,,.to every trap,every year.That isn't needed.I now pick through the traps,clean offall dirt-thoroughly,and only process the ones that need it.generally,I only have to treat a small pecentage of them.
Traps treated this way last forever.I used a few dozen BMI,K9 wolfers for twenty years.Every one would still easily hold any coyote and a few lions,this,with original springs.I sold them for more than retail.
I will say though,the logwood powder and even the crystals,don't seem as strong as the old stuff,so I double the recommended amount,and usually save it,by letting it dehydrate.The new steel in traps doesn't seem to rust the same as the old stuff.This may be a good thing but it won't take dye as well as the old,American steel.If I had access to walnuts,these days,I would probably use those.
Last edited by Taximan; 12/29/19 01:12 PM.
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Re: MB 550 TRAPS
[Re: Taximan]
#6709935
12/29/19 05:24 PM
12/29/19 05:24 PM
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,850 SW Georgia
Wanna Be
trapper
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trapper
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,850
SW Georgia
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There are a million ways to treat traps and most work.I have been dying and waxing for 60 years and much prefer it,when done correctly.Dye needs an even coat of rust to work well,period.That light coat of rust doesn't hurt a thing and dyed properly,will be neutralized and won't advance.
I have dyed only and waxed only and again,done properly,dyed AND waxed,lasts and protects longer than either,alone.I have stashed dyed and waxed traps in the woods and they didn't need redone for 5-6 years.I used to go through the whole process,,.to every trap,every year.That isn't needed.I now pick through the traps,clean offall dirt-thoroughly,and only process the ones that need it.generally,I only have to treat a small pecentage of them.
Traps treated this way last forever.I used a few dozen BMI,K9 wolfers for twenty years.Every one would still easily hold any coyote and a few lions,this,with original springs.I sold them for more than retail.
I will say though,the logwood powder and even the crystals,don't seem as strong as the old stuff,so I double the recommended amount,and usually save it,by letting it dehydrate.The new steel in traps doesn't seem to rust the same as the old stuff.This may be a good thing but it won't take dye as well as the old,American steel.If I had access to walnuts,these days,I would probably use those. I had traps that had rusted really bad from not treating last year (brand new traps). I soaked ALL my traps in vinegar for a couple of days and they came out looking like brand new traps. I let them sit for a few days and even though they didn’t really rust, decided to go ahead and dye them. After dyeing them, I waxed them all the very next day. Don’t know what I did different this time than I did my very first time, but the way things looks now, I won’t have to do anything to them for next season. Or if I do, it will be very few. Really pleased how these turned out. I even waxed my DP’s and glad I did. It makes cleaning them off and out so much easier. Any new traps will probably just be waxed next year.
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