Suppose I have some traps with a little rust but am getting too tired and old to do the traditional dye and wax.

1. What is the best water-based dip to use (if there is one better than traditional dyeing)?

2. FMJ just doesn't look as good as hot wax to me. Is it better? What about 2 coats of it.

3. Been successful with traditional methods. Should I stick with it or change after 45 years?

I wouldn't suggest dipping a rusted trap in fmj for it will continue to rust under the fmj coating. You can dye then dip in fmj or just spray paint then dip. I always do two coats then it does wear off alot slower then traditional wax in my experience with it. I found no matter what if you don't coat the steel with either dying or painting the trap will continue to rust and rust faster it seems if its bare metal or already rusty then dipped in fmj.

I've never heard of anyone dyeing AND dipping.

I do. Dyeing for stopping the rust, and then dipping (your choice) - Speed/petroleum dip for water traps and BG's. .... or Rustoleum, or Dakotaline, FMJ, an oil based house paint, wax etc., etc., or whatever you prefer. The tannic acid/logwood dye and a dip/rinse in Baking soda water to neutralize the acid stops a lot of corrosion from continuing or re-starting. You can use whatever you want after that. I get a lot of traps that are just dipped and they have a coat of rust slowly working under those finishes as The hammer says. I have a barrel of dye that I put the used traps in when they come in. I may boil them or may just leave them in for a month(s) until I get some time to boil them once,,,,, then they get a type of dip based on their destination (land, water, re-sale).... my take

Dying traps has no benefit It doesn't give the metal any protection. But It looks good. And any of us that have done It will tell you that as soon as you pull a dyed trap out of the hot dye bath It will start to rust as soon as It dries. Then of coarse to get a new trap to except dye you have to get It rusty. That In my mind makes no sense at all.

No matter what you put on your trap It's going to get wore off after the first catch or 2.

Thank you very much.

Thank you very much

Formula One brown has worked incredible for me over the years. I don't dunk them every year even, just when I want to freshen them up. I have no reason to want to try anything different.

Thank you very much.

3. Been successful with traditional methods. Should I stick with it or change after 45 years?


Mac

Thank you very much

I'd go w/ h20 over the petroleum dip. I don't know, the gas idea doesn't seem intriguing.

The paint used in coating outdoor metal containers (Oil or fertilizer storage tanks etc., etc., ), where rust/corrosion problems could cause a BIG problem,,,, contains tannic acids so it stops the chemical reaction with the oxygen in the atmosphere and then coats the metal to further protect it. Ever watch it being done--- there is no primer just 1 coat to do two things. You can buy that paint at industrial coating facilities but it costs more than the traps are worth that you would be protecting. The old method of dye to stop rust,,,,, then neutralize it (as the acid is still on the trap surface, like Beav says) then dip or paint or wax is the process I use. You can protect the trap with whatever you feel you need to. Some guys don't believe in dying a trap which is fine if your soil is somewhat neutral but if you have acidic or alkaline soils and you get some (used) rusted candidates, its safer (for you and the metal) to use some tannic acid rather than the muriatic, sulfuric, acetic etc. acids to remove that rust (actually phosphoric acid is probably as good as anything to remove it). Been using logwood since I started in '66 (got it from Verleen Trap Supply in KS, anyone remember them?) and have tried just about everything there is (bark, leaves, walnut husks, tea, sumac, buried in organic muck, red powdered logwood, black logwood crystals etc., etc.,) but for convenience for the average guy/gal, logwood in a container (you don't have to boil if you have 4-7 months to soak them) will work just fine. I have 2 containers set up to soak or boil. Got that idea from LaVern Israelson in Thief River Falls MN. back in 1970 . I care for 70 cow/calves, have 2 ac. of garden, and sometimes don't get to all the traps to boil etc. before I head to a convention. I sort and toss in a barrel and can retrieve them 4 months later, hose'em and dip if I want. Spend the least amount of work and $ you can to get the most lasting care of your gear..... my take .... the mike

Formula 1 available from Newt here and www.snareone.com

are they 1 and the same?

dye and wax is what many do..but I quit wasting time/money/effort dyeing and only wax nowdays,

Backbreaker- Any questions
call me 609-338-7011

Many that have used both products seem to feel they are different. I guess there's a lot of varying views on dying vs dipping vs neither.