Well I did it. I signed up for the training and will hopefully be able to use cables here in PA soon. I'll start the course tonight after work.

I'm completely new to using restrains and snares but you're never too old to learn.

I have to go to work right now but I'd like to hear any input and advice you experienced guys and gals might have for a newbie...

Things to read, things to study, and especially any advice on snaring/restraint's in Pennsylvania.

I'm figuring on setting out my new weasel boxes, maybe setting some beaver sets, and trying to snare a fox, yote, or both.

We'll see what happens. I bought a dozen restraints to start with and here are the weasel boxes I'm making.

Thanks for the collective info folks. This place is awesome!

Welcome and good luck. I’d start by reading the archives, and there are lots of good books and DVD’s. Joining your state association is a must.

Depending on state regs for cable restraints you might not hold a fox in one. Michigan has a deer stop that leaves the loop big enough for a fox to get out of. I also found that a fox can walk through bad 10 inch loop without tripping the snare. I have cables out on a property and have had 3 fox walk through loops. Hoping the coyotes will use same trails soon. Good luck and have fun. I can only use cables on private property between January 1st and end of season. I mainly use footholds but like to play with cables once in a while because I can.

I usually never have the time to run more than 12-16 cables at a time, but I do manage to catch a few fox every year. A couple of things I learned are: center the loop in the trail so they can't find a way around it, a light tan spray paint on the cables seems to blend in best here in Pa, use a few pieces of surrounding vegetation to break up the outline of the loop, if you get the loop much bigger than 6 inches the chances of a hip catch go way up (still a catch though), and like others have said study the snow. Snow reveals everything about how they hunt and travel. Just my observations. I'm sure it's different for others.

Its a numbers game. You should set at least 4x as many snares as you would lured sets. Buying only 12 is about to guarantee you don't have much of any success. I'd suggest buying at least 8 dozen and setting no less than 4 dozen. They are fast and easy to set and maintain. Way easier to set 4 dozen snares than 12 dirtholes, especially in frozen ground. Give yourself a chance for success.

Awesome and thanks for the responses. I definitely intend on buying more cables for sure but I spent my money on a good fleshing knife this last trip. Payday I'll be headed back out to the trapper's supply and pick up some more. Now, if it ever decides to actually turn winter here and stay that way I'll be looking in the snow at what they're doing. I see all kinds of trails, scat, and I can smell predator urine in various spots. I'm looking forward to this.

Just finished the course and got my certificate. Good stuff, now I'm going to work on learning how to use the blasted things. Like anything it'll take experimentation and finding out what works.

What kind of supports are you going to use to stabilize your CR

Well I figured that I would start out with a wire support of some kind.

Here in PA we have to avoid entanglement and the critter must be given a 360 degree swivel point at the anchor so the mechanics of this are going to take some creativity I think.

Having looked in depth at the requirements via the course last night most of these sets are going to have to be field and open bottom land locations.

I'm definitely open to suggestions and methods.

A wire support leading to the ground is what I use, like #9 wire. I'm open to ideas to, but haven't found a better way.

Very useful tool.

Advice would be learn what a quality snare (or CR) is and use them. A number of people sell them, and they aren’t hard to build yourself if you have time and want to learn how. They’re absolutely worth it.


Most sets that can be made with a 330 can be made with a snare, but there are also quite a few sets that can be made with a snare that can’t (at least not easily) be made with a 330.


Find a setup that you like...I prefer an earth anchor—36” of 3/32”—-barrel swivel—-snare. Some people prefer using a cable extension, but having a snared beaver is like having a chainsaw on a leash. By using an earth anchor or stake, you’re able to keep them away from entanglement by choosing your set locations away from it. Entanglement can cause serious issues for beavers, unless it’s underwater entanglement which is a very useful thing when legal.


Good luck

Check with your local WCO with using rat snap traps in weasel boxes in Pa. Technically they are considered a body gripping trap which my old WCO pointed out to me.

Body grip traps are illegal to use on land in Pa. Seems silly but it depends on who is checking your boxes. May have to use a #1 or 1-1/2 long spring instead. Just a tip.

Will do, thanks.

Old aluminum arrows or carbon arrows or the stabilizing rods In your old pop up blinds. Or get some 3/16ths rod cut them about 20" long and weld on a washer about 3" up from the end so when you drive the support In to the ground It won't spin.
Drill a hole through the rod or arrow up near the top shove your sport wire through that hole and then bend It down and wrap it In place with some tape. If you have problems drilling that small hole through the steel rod just take a hammer and flatten It out a bit.

Leave about 10" of wire sticking out from the rod. Drive the support rod about 3" into the ground. I haven't seen a better way of adjusting my loop then with this system Bend the wire up or down to adjust height. Bend the wire back and forth to adjust to the angle of the trail. If the trail Is going up or down you can adjust the loop so It's at the same angle as the trail.

And wind won't effect this system and In some cases I have had deer walk right through the set up and have the loop swing right back Into place.

When you make a catch the first go around will either knock the rod over or If It's frozen Into the ground It will bend It right over.

My stabilizer's are bit more sophisticated. Mine are 1/4" square stock and I have a hole and a slot lazar cut Into the support. Two holes would make It tough to get the wire bent just right but the slot gives me a better chance to get the wire though both openings. This way I don't have to wrap the tag end of the wire with tape to hold It In place.

And with the steel stabilizer supports I don't have that tangled up mess you have with wire supports.

Heck yeah more good stuff to ponder and apply....I knew it was a good idea to sign up here...Thanks Beav

As a side note on the weasel boxes, the advice on the rat traps in the box seems accurate too.

As best as I can tell the only way this is legal here is if the box is in a watercourse, waterway, and etc. Then it will have to follow all of the stipulations for "artificial cubbies with body grippers"

I'm going to buy a dozen #1 coil springs....maybe two dozen.....