Ok ive only snared once that was last year and I caught a possum I would like to know how to snare coyotes. Thanks.

Easiest way would be on trails leading to a bait pile.

Snaring is simple,place a loop of cable where the animal will stick his head.
Similar to trapping with bodygrips,or in the case of foottrapping-place trap where animal will step.

Check for where they go under fences,but beware, deer sometimes use the same trails.

In Arkansas there is a law that says you can't have a snare that will touch a fence when fully extended. So fences are out. Could I set some on deer trails.

My suggestion is don't lean a stick or branch over a snare on a trail that deer use or you'll have a dead deer on your next check .

A 8" loop 8 - 10" off the ground is a good way to start setting snares and tie them off to something solid.
I'd try to avoid the deer trails also, set a bait in a area where the deer don't normally go if possible then wait for the coyotes to show you where to set your snares.
Allan

Get some #9 wire and make a support, stake your snare (with support) on the trail, so that it won't touch the fence, and there you go. It's hard to explain how I make mine, but they are somewhat of an inverted J with a lightning bolt where it goes in the ground, then stake the snare with a leader, or make your snares long. Hope this helps, but I'm also pretty green myself!

Lots of good videos on YouTube to check out, adjust to your states laws. Don't over think it and you'll catch on fast.

I copy this for you from the snare shop to help you

BASICS OF SNARING

Unless an animal has a good reason to act to the contrary it will take the path of least resistance. This principle is what makes snaring so effective. In areas where coon, fox or coyote exist, find a path, gully, log crossing, fence, dugout, culvert or other features that restrict the LINE OF TRAVEL and place a snare DIRECTLY IN THE CENTER OF THE LINE OF TRAVEL. Fox, coon and coyote meet hundreds of small obstacles such as branches, weeds or vines every time they travel and will walk right into a snare as if it were just another weed or branch. They have no idea they are in trouble until it is too late.

Fast, easy and effective.

Groundhog, Opossum 5-6” diameter loop 2” off the ground

Fox 8” diameter loop 8” off the ground

Bobcat 8" diameter loop 8" off the ground

Coon 6-8” diameter loop 3-5” off the ground

Coyote 10-12”diameter loop 10-12” off the ground

Wolverine 8" diameter loop 8" off the ground

Beaver 10”diameter loop 2-3” off the ground

Wild Hog up to 18" diameter loop 10-12" off the ground

Wolves 18" diameter loop 10-12" off the ground

Stake snares down better than you would stake a trap, because your catch will be pulling with all four legs.

Swiveled Snare Shop Snares have swivels that fit easily on either 3/8" of 1/2" rebar stakes. The entire lock and snare loop can also be slipped through the swivel to function as a tree lock or an adjustable snare tie off.



CHOOSING THE RIGHT SNARE

Step 1: State Regulations - It is your responsibility to know and abide by your state's regulations. We have provided links for all the states, where you can find requirements and restrictions. The links are located at the bottom of this page under the Customer Service tab.

Step 2: Cable Selection - There are many different types, sizes, constructions and lengths of cable to choose from.

Type of Cable: There are many different types of cable out there, all with different qualities, characters, and uses. When the Old Timers were first exploring the land they used whatever was available to them; vines, horse hair, etc, but times have changed and there are a lot better options out there for the trappers of the new century!

Galvanized Aircraft Cable - This is a steel cable that has been galvanized. Galvanized is a process that puts a thin layer of protecting zinc on the cable, this zinc retards the rusting process and give the cable a sort of shiny appearance. Galvanized Aircraft Cable (GAC) is the most popular type of cable used in the snaring industry today

Stainless Steel Cable – This is what it says, stainless steel cable. This cable will not rust, and is stronger than GAC, but not completely chew resistant. It is a lighter shade of gray than the GAC, and is normally used in maritime regions that deal with salt water.

Cable Construction: How cable is constructed affects almost every characteristic about the cable. It will determine flexibility, smoothness, strength, weight, etc. Cable construction should be chosen with diameter of cable, different construction may allow you to choose a smaller diameter cable, etc.

7x7 – Made for use when extreme flexibility is not necessary. It can be used in aircraft and automotive controls, agriculture applications, etc. In snaring, this cable is the most popular. Trappers use it for snares, extension cables, drowners, to connect earth anchors, etc.

7x19 – Made for extreme flexibility, it’s the strongest of the three constructions we have available, and is not as prone to kinks. Common uses for this cable include; rigging in sail boats, winches, exercise equipment, garage doors, etc. In snaring this cable is usually used for large animal foot snares (bear, hog), drowners, and extensions. It is usually not used for neck snares because its flexibility forms a tear-drop loop.

1x19 – This is a stiff, smooth cable and is strong, it tends to kink somewhat easily. It can be used for standing rigging, guying applications, etc. In snaring this cable is used mainly for dispatch snares, and is very fast when “loaded”. The stronger cable will allow you to choose a smaller diameter cable and still be able to hold the bigger animals.

Cable Diameter: The diameter of the cable can be determined by your target animal and construction of cable.

1/32” - Squirrel, Pine Marten, etc

3/64” - Mink, Squirrel, Rabbit, etc
1/16” - Bobcat, Fox, Rabbit, Ground Hog, Opossum, etc

(Some trappers will use a 1x19 1/16” cable for coyotes with a

dispatch spring and kill pole)

5/64” - Bobcat, Fox, Raccoon, Coyote (1x19), etc

3/32” - Raccoon, Coyote, Fox, Beaver, Badger

-Wolf (1x19)

- Most popular size for snaring, very versatile

- Also used for drowners, earth anchors, extensions, etc

7/64” - Coyote, Bear Cub, Small Alligator, Wild Hog, Wolf

1/8” - Coyote, Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog, Wolf

- Earth anchors, drowners

5/32” - Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog

3/16” - Large Bear

- Foot Snares



Cable Length: Different situations call for different lengths of snares.

30” - Mink, Squirrel, Rabbits, etc

- Smaller animals require smaller loops and the cable can be quite

a bit shorter to eliminate excess.

33 ½” - Beaver or fox.
- This makes a 10” loop, and most snares like this are designed for

a bait pole or have wire attached for fox.

42” - 48” - Raccoon, Fox, Bobcat, Badger, Rabbit, Opossum, Ground Hog

- Fence line

- Road ditch snaring, leaves smaller burn

5’ - Raccoon, Fox, Beaver, Coyote

- Most popular length

- will work in trail sets, ditches, fence lines, etc, very versatile

7’ - Coyote, Beaver, Wild Hog

8’ - Wolf, Wild Hog

10’ - Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog
Step 3: Anchoring End – To determine what type of end you want on your snare, you should know what type of anchoring system you will be using. Whether you prefer to use a rebar stake, an earth anchor or a Pogo anchor, the end on your snare can make attaching them a lot easier.

Adjustable Loop End: This loop can be adjusted bigger and smaller allowing you to loop it around a fence post, or rebar stake. It also allows you to easily run the snare back through the loop to anchor to a tree, brush, etc. This type of end has no swiveling action and tends to kink the cable badly when an animal is caught, but actually makes it work better than a swivel in an entanglement situation (dispatch snares, kill poles).

Solid Loop End: A solid loop has many of the same qualities as an adjustable loop, except it can not be made bigger or smaller. We put solid loops on our under-ice beaver snares; they can easily be nailed to a bait pole.

Swiveled End: Swivels are the most popular type of anchoring end. They allow the cable to turn with the animal as it rolls and fights, which means less kinking. If you want to live catch anything a swivel is a must.

Combo Snare Ends/Tree Lock: Combo Ends can be used for many different things; swivel, adjustable loop end, drowner lock, or in-line swivel. We don’t have any pre-made snares with these ends on them, but they can be custom made, or you can put them on yourself if you like.



Step 4: Snare Lock – All snares must have some sort of locking mechanism to work. Whether it is a bent washer lock, mechanical lock, or a knot in the cable, a lock is what closes down on the snared animal and holds it there. Check your state’s regulations, some states have restrictions on what type of lock you can snare with.

Relaxing Lock: A relaxing lock will close down on the animal when they walk through the snare and are pulling on the cable, but it will release the pressure off the cable once the animal stops pulling. Relaxing locks tend to be less aggressive, but some newer locks, like the Micro Lock, are just as aggressive as the non-relaxing locks. A relaxing lock should be used if you are trying to live catch an animal, and they greatly reduce fun damage commonly caused by non-relaxing locks. (i.e. all of the washer locks, Micro Locks, Relax-a-locks)

Non-Relaxing Locks: A non-relaxing lock is designed to hold its position on the cable. When an animal is pulling and fighting the snare, the non-relaxing lock will get tighter and tighter, and when the animal stops pulling the lock bites into the cable and holds its position tight around the animal. These are great in dispatch sets, and entanglement situations. (i.e. Berkshire Sure lock, BMI Locks, Grawe’s Bullet Locks, Gregerson Locks, Berkshire Modified L-Locks)

Mechanical Locks: These locks are a non-relaxing lock with moving parts. They are very aggressive, fast, and non forgiving, but you can easily release them off an animal once they are dispatched, etc. (i.e. Cam-Locks & Amberg Wedge Locks)

Step 5: Support Collar – The support collar is the device that attaches your snare to the support wire. The wire can then be adjusted to the proper height and position in the trail.

Twist-On Support Collar: All our snares feature this support collar. They fit 3/64”-1/8” cable and 14ga - 9ga wire, so no more wondering what size wire you have, these will fit on any wire you’ve got. To attach to your support wire, twist the collar with a left hand thread. If you are holding the wire in your left hand and the collar in your right hand, twist the top of the collar toward your body. These are fast when you’re out on the snareline and when you’re building your own snares!

Wammy Support Collar: These are the old style of support collar. They are specific to cable size and wire gauge. To attach to your support wire, simply plug the wire into the collar. Wammy Support Collars are a headache to keep separate when you are building snares, but on the snareline go on fast.

Plastic Tubing: We do not offer plastic tubing on snares, but it is being used. It is usually just a 1” – 2” surgical tube on the snare. To attach to the support wire, simply slide the wire into the tubing. We don’t like the tubing because in cold weather it tends to crack and get bridle and not usable.

No Support Collar: You can opt to have no collar on your snares if you like. If you are setting them under a fence and want to just us a piece of string to hold the loop up, or if you bend the support wire into a “W” and lace the snare trough it for support, you don’t necessarily need the support collar.



Step 6: Deer Stop/Live Catch Stop – Is a stop placed on the inside of the loop that prevents the loop from closing past a certain point.

Deer Stop: A standard deer stop makes a 2 ½” diameter loop. The deer stop allows a leg caught deer to pull its leg back through the snare, and allows you to re-set the snare. Check your state’s regulations when it comes to deer stops, some states require them, some don’t, and some have specific diameters the deer stop must be set at.

Live Catch Stop: A live catch stop is the same stop as a deer stop, it is just placed to make a bigger loop on the snare. The standard live catch coyote stop is set at a 3 ½” diameter loop. This loop will not allow the coyote to escape, but will make sure the snare doesn’t close too tightly on the coyote and choke it out. Most fox will be able to escape from a snare with a live catch coyote stop; because the loop is too big and they can pull their head back through the loop. The standard live catch fox stop is a 2 ½” diameter, the same as a deer stop.

Step 7: Breakaway Device – A breakaway device is required in some states, so check your state’s regulations. They can be a couple different things; S-hooks, J-hooks, Release Ferrules, or Breakaway Locks. They are devices that are designed to “breakaway” at a certain poundage of strength; they can straighten out, or pull off the end of the cable.

S-Hooks: An S-hook is an “S” shaped hook, usually made from a galvanized wire, with a pre-determined breaking strength. These S-Hooks are designed to complete the loop, between the lock and the cable, when they breakaway they straighten out releasing the loop and allowing the caught cow or deer go. S-Hooks work best with Cam-Locks or Wedge Locks, because of how they lay on the cable.

J-Hooks: A J-hook is a “J” shaped hook, usually made from a galvanized wire, with a pre-determined breaking strength. These J-Hooks are designed to complete the loop, between the lock and the cable, when they breakaway they straighten out releasing the loop and allowing the caught cow or deer go. J-Hooks work best with washer locks and Micro Locks, because of how they lay on the cable.

Release Ferrule: A release ferrule is a small stop placed behind the lock on the cable. When the animal pulls with more force than the ferrules are rated for, the stop will pop off and release the loop and the animal. To properly use release ferrules you must have the appropriate swag tool and compress the tool completely. If you do not follow directions with release ferrules the breakaway poundage might end up way lower or higher than what they are actually rated for.

Breakaway Locks: A breakaway lock is designed to “tear-out” at a pre-determined poundage. They started when guys would drill or cut out locks for homemade breakaways, and now are tested and made by a manufacture. Some states don’t accept breakaway locks as a breakaway device, so make sure you know your state’s regulations. (i.e. Gregerson Locks, Grawe’s Mini-Mag Lock, NWRC Locks)



Step 8: Dispatch Spring – A dispatch spring is made to apply extra pressure on the lock. They are not legal in all states, so be familar with your state's regulations. These work the best in entanglement situations.

Regular Dispatch Spring: These come in either 25# or 50# which is a measure of how much pressure is applied on the lock. The spring is placed behind the lock on the cable.

Canadian Dispatch Spring/Stinger Spring: This spring looks like a tiny conibear spring. It is placed behind the lock on the cable. It was made famous by Marty Senneker, from Canada.



Step 9: Ask Questions – Snaring all comes down the personal preference. Asking your neighbor trapper will never hurt; he probably won’t give out his secrets, but almost always will tell you what doesn’t work! We are here to help to; after you go through all this information, if you still can’t find what your are looking for, or don’t understand what something is used for just give us a call. Talking to your local game warden can give you ideas too.

here is the link to the site of where I got it from https://www.snareshop.com/Aboutus.asp

I can tell you one thing snaring isn't all that simple.

I disagree Beav.

1- find trail
2- set snare in trail
3-animal puts head in snare
4-shoot animal in snare

I started out snaring beavers. Then coon then bobcats and coyotes. I started out using 3/32 7x7 with a bent washer. Now I use mini pro lock or slim lock (36 inch 1x19 5/64 ) barrel swivel then (3.5 ft 3/32 7x7.) I use them on everything. We have to use a one piece lock on land. But in water we can use about any lock. I am still learning every yr.

I disagree Beav.

1- find trail
2- set snare in trail
3-animal puts head in snare

4-shoot animal in snare
/quote]

Spoken like a true snare salesman. LOL

I would buy or make snares with deer stops just to be safe. They won't get small enough to grab a deers leg if they step through a snare.

Just like foothold trap'n

1-Find a coyote track
2-Find the next then the next and so on and so on
3- when you find a track with a foot in it
4- set trap 6" in front


Beav and I have been do'n it for 50 years or more.

As "Newt" stated:

"1- find trail
2- set snare in trail"------- center of at appropriate height with relatively large loop.
3- No blocking added.
4- Catch coyote.

I think people naturally want to make something thats real simple more complicated.

If Oklahoma would legalize snaring. Our worthless fur would be in trouble. The only thing easier then snares may be body grips. But I would rather use snares.

Your success will depend on how many laws you will have to break In these coyote protection states Like WI.

Lots of snaring info in the archives section of this forum. Go to Archives, General Trapping, then page down the alphabetic to "snare."

Snares is like Newt stated it is easy and do not have to worry about get your hand caught in the trap like a foothold or body grip.Also a snare just one can be use to catch different animals . It is the easy to use trap .All you need to do is just set the loop and height of the snare for what ever animal you after . That is why I post about the snare like I did to make it easy for the OP to understand about the use of them and how far to set off the ground. It is just a simple trap to use.

So far No One has given you what you need to catch a animal in a snare(or trap) .

You must set on LOCATION.

If snaring was so easy there wouldn't be any critters left to catch.
They forget to tell you about the refusals and the knocked down cables and where you just plain miss a critter because it just slips around the loop. Leaving a empty loop just hanging there. And If they say this doesn't happen then they haven't hung many snares. It's a great tool but It's not by any means perfect.
Oh and then you have to worry about the magnetic field those cables give off.

I know all about the empty cables closed loops and misses. And I've only hung three.

It will get better.

That's not snaring beav, that's cable restraints do for you. If you could use a good dispatch snare and get them set in thick entanglement or fence crawl throughs, you'd have a lot few of those problems. Still not perfect as you stated but not as bad as you make it sound.

If snaring is not easy how come many trappers snare hundreds of coyotes a season. Once you learn the eccentricities of snaring coyotes it is relatively easy, you just have to get many snares out where the coyotes travel. As far as knocked down cables go it does not necessary occur because the coyote detected the snare. It often occurs because the coyote gets distracted by something else and turn its head to the side while approaching the snare and hits it with its neck or shoulder and knocks it down. Also with setting snares high if one goes under the snare with its head down, on the next trip, or another coyote, it will come through with its head up. No different than one going around a snare and the next going into it.

With regard to any magnetic field this is the first I've heard of it and I suspect it's a bunch of BS.

I’ve bought snares, watched the videos, read the books and until recently, didn’t have the confidence to use them. Two weeks ago, I decided to go after coon in the snow. Set 3 cages and 8 snares. Over the next week I experienced knocked down snares; fired snares (probably wind); snares COMPLETELY closed with a few strands of fur in them. The snares I was using were 5/64, 1x19, loaded with a slim lock type device. My loops were 8-in wide because the snares kept firing with smaller loops. The snares were 4-6 inches above the frozen snow. This venture was giving me LOTS of lessons about what not to do.

I switched to tight fitting wammies. And I added cam locked snares. I also switched out the the support wire with the new wammies. In the end, I got 3 in snares. One was in a cam locked model on 5/64, 7x7, the other two were in slim locks on the 5/54 1x19 cable.

It’s been a good learning experience. I now feel more confident in my ability to use and make catches with snares.

As has been said by others, you HAVE to be on trails. Success comes with trial and error. I’m a firm believer in the value of failure because it forces you to analyze and learn or quit.

We can't use snares on land in Illinois. But I will repeat what John Graham said at Coyote Days last summer. You don't want to use cable restraints, you want a dead coyote, not one that chews that is running around with a snare on its neck.
With that said, it would be nice if the experts in each state that regulate would listen to the expert that have used their entire life.
I know, politics enter every time. Just wishing.

Snare is the easy trap to set and use. The only problem with them is they are only one time use and if you use the right locks you can re use them.

For what you said for refusal you get the same with any other type of trap if you really look into it , like footholds if they not set right and conibear if the animal got wise up. Nothing if fool proof , that is why it is call trapping. If it was so easy to trap there would b more doing it then there is now.

Go to Beavs coyotes post you will be educated about the magnetic field !

I still think it's BS to excuse/cover up poor snaring practices.

I agree !

I think this is a good place to start:

Rich Faler's Cable Restraint book https://www.fntpost.com/Products/Rich+Faler's+Cable+Restraints+The+Art+of+Live-Catch+Snares+Book

Lots of good color photos and descriptions.

When that's all you can use Is CRs then that's the hand your being dealt. We can't use any cable smaller then 3/32 that In It's self makes the snare more visible. We can't use entanglement that also makes the snare more visible.

Once I switched to 1/19 cable and had a inline swivel in the mix I never had another chew out.
It's far from perfect but It's what we have to work with.

The most effective cable color scheme for me was spiral wrap combo of medium light grey and medium dark grey.

For 3 years I've been trying to snare coyotes. So far a grand total of 3 caught. Setting mainly cow trails in sandhill pastures. After there is snow, I see where they come right to snare, stop and go around .I'm using 5/64 7x7 with death blow locks. Have read and tried about everything to no avail. The grass probably averages 12 inches high, so not like bare ground

Maybe someone can shed some light on this for you and everyone else.

I'll try to help LDW what length of snare are you using, size of loop and distance from the bottom of the loop to the compressed snow ? I'd walk right down the trails I'll guess you're setting near a tall clump of grass or some sort of weeds or ????

When you set the snare step over it and continue to walk down the trail let's say 25-35' before turning around and going to the outfit.
When your at the gas station try not to step in spilled gas or diesel if you do stop at a set of corals and get some cow crap on your boots.
Wear clean chore gloves when setting snares or clean leather gloves if the cotton chore gloves get soaked in sweat swap them out with another pair.
How have you treated your snares ? Did you boil them in well water and baking soda ? Or what then did you hang them up outside the " air out "
Then what type of snare support system are you using what I make and sell are 1/4" cold roll with 12 ga wire welded on them these work very well I'm not real crazy about #9 wire but I've used it in some situations.
Allan

I'm using 7ft snares with 5ft extensions. 10in loop, 10in off ground. I approach trails from the side. Snares have hung in a open front shed for the last 3 years. Have tried 5/8 rebar kill poles and 9 ga supports drove pnto the ground. Even zip tied small cedar trees to the kill poles placed well before season. Snares have been dipped, bought from Dakotaline.

LDW, a 10x10 loop is minimal for brushy areas, I would question it for open areas. Maybe a trapper that snares in open, low grass, areas can help. I have read that in such ground conditions a larger loop, such as 16" to 20" 12 to 15 inches off ground reduces refusals. You and I posted at about same time, so I edited this.

10in loop, 10in off the ground

Most greenhorn snaremen set the loops to big and too high for the animal they want to target.This results in walk thrus,inhumane flank catches,damaged fur,live animals in snares and in certain species a chew out.
Set a smaller loop and you may get a couple knocked down snares-no big deal-it doesnt spook them-and they will more often than not be in the next snare down the trail,and when you connect(as long as your snare is supported correctly) it will be a high neck humane catch,and a quickly dispatched animal with no fur damage.

In wide open areas like your talking about where a coyote is on the move and not hunting In most cases It's head Is going to be up. So I would have the top of my loop at least 24 inches off the ground. I have to disagree with boco on loop size. It's a lot easier to guide a coyotes head through a 12" loop then a 10" loop and 14 or 16" loop would be better. And In my opinion a larger loop Is going to be less visible then a smaller loop.

I agree with Boco this time on try a smaller loop 8 - 10 " above the ground 12" if there's a chance of snow .

There's something the coyotes don't like if you have only caught a handful in 3 year's , I've seen where coyotes walked around a snare when I had done the same thing so maybe it's because you walk from the side of the trail to make the set .
Or that you added a tree with your kill pole , try a 2' stake with 4' of wire wrapped around it coyotes are used to seeing wire laying around out in the hills even if it's a barb wire fence someone replaced but never picked up.

You may want to go with 1/16" snares don't underestimate them .

In the open and/or wide timber/bush trails use a large 14" loop set 14" above the walking surface. As "The Beav" said a large loop is less noticeable and generally blends in better. Most of the time a coyote holds its head up while travelling. No additional blocking than that which already exist.

How do y’all keep from catching deer? Or if you do catch one, how is it released? We can’t use snares here except in water or within 10 feet of water. I’ve always wondered how in the world I release one if it ever somehow couldn’t get out of a foothold. Then again, that’s why we can’t use anything larger than 5.75” jaw spread.

If you're not placing a loop this small and this low in hole through brush or grasses, it's too small and too low IMO for coyotes. It should be good for fox or bobcats if its a fast loaded snare. I much prefer a coyote loop be at least 12" up and often 14-15" up off the ground. IMO you want the bottom of the loop to hit them just under the chin, then fire shut fast when they get a little pressure applied to the cable. A stiff support is a must IMO to hold your loop solid until the lock can be pulled up slightly over the top of the loop, then hold it solid as the snare fires shut fast. This is like adding pan tension to a trap, you want them committed to pushing through before it fires shut.

There is so much info here based on where the guys who are using it that it has to be very confusing. For example beav has to use cable restraint type snares and specific setting instructions where as bctomcat can use real good dispatch snares without even a deer stop added to limit their effectiveness, however high or big he wants to. I fall in between, I can use real snares but they all have to have a stupid deer stop and maximum loop size of 11" wide, so if I use lighter cable, coyotes that the deer stop wouldn't allow me to kill, chew out. Other factors too such as what coyotes encounter in their daily travels effect your snaring methods. Plus simple things like camoing your snares, take for example the dakota line dip, I found it on the dry side when applied to snares and it slowed their action somewhat, they still work but maybe not as well for one guy as the next based on lock choice, cable choice, support wire, etc.. That said, my advice is to find a successful coyote snareman in your state and beg and plead to go ride with them one day on their line. It'll be worth it if you have to drive halfway across the state.

Catch pole, get them laid down, then you just cut the cable off them and let them go, same way you release any animal from a snare. You can limit incidences by using break away devices or deer stops, by avoiding trails with deer tracks or using a pole leaned at a steep angle so the majority of them go around.

In my case I essentially use bait stations only for snaring coyotes and set them up in very low deer activity areas like thick timber with no deer browse. With the snare bottom set at 14" above the ground any deer that may come through will miss stepping into the snare and just knocks it over with its body as its head is also usually up above the snare.

Gotcha, bet that would be a heck of an experience. I’ve watched does fight before and decided I wanted no part of that, lol!!

I caught 2 deer In the last 10 years. Both were stone dead. No catch circle the BAD didn't release but had a dead deer. In both cases I could have reused the CR. I don't know If the deer choked to death or died of stress or broke It's neck. I think the deer just kept backing up and choked to death. Both were adult does.

Geez, beav and you're hoping to get real snares there some day?

Over the years I caught a good many coyote in 8x8 bobcat loops. When setting for coyote I found 12 to 15" loops more productive.
My preferred cable for coyote is 1/16" 1x19. Korean 3/64" 1x19 is rated at 400# breaking strength, so where legal that could be used for non-springy-fastened coyote dispatch snares if desired.

I've cut cable off several leg-caught deer, but not in last few years because I started putting 280# S-hook BADS on all my snares. BADs are now required in my state.

Regarding visibility, imagine a coyote trotting down a trail. He would see all of a 10" loop as being directly in his line of travel. With a 15" loop he probably would see it but sides of loop would not crowd his path.

No ADC that will never happen In my lifetime.

I don't believe you really missed my point though....

This is the terrain I'm trapping in.

Oop's, can't figure out to straighten out.

I think we’d all have trouble there!!

I've never snare in terrain like that but if I had to I would definitely use a large 14-15" loop set with the bottom 14" above the ground. As the "Beav" stated the coyotes head will most likely to be up when it's travelling and furthermore with the large loop the snare sides will not appear to crowd the animals passage. Also a 1/16 cable is definitely applicable in this situation.

x2 if I were to snare such open terrain and it was legal, I'd be using a 12' long snare or snare/extension combo, 1x19 1/16" cable, light colored camo, mini cam locks with kill springs. I'd use something like a devils hatpin for a support wrapped with a little bit of that grass. The snares would be super fast loaded and anchored solid with cable stakes. I'd also hope for a lot of cloudy dark nights!

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The posts on this thread confirm what has been copyrighted and published about magnetic field intensity related to trapping devices is correct. It is just a matter of time when the information will be digested and tested proving to all. It just has to be read and understood. Here are just two examples which corroborate copyrighted statements on EMF, related to trapping devices, in these quotes.


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It is doing a great disservice to mock and make fun of what has been learned and something that promotes the methods and practices that are posted, that you believe in, and are sharing. Ignorance is no excuse when information is so readily available and can be proved by just carrying a magnetometer one season. No telling what improvements to your line it might bring.

I take exception to your insinuation that I am sharing ignorance. Whether or not you are onto something does not qualify you to deride existing animal harvesting practices.

You have it right

I maybe should have used the word "prove" instead of corroborate.

So; what knowledge about magnetic fields is or will be useful in helping the average Joe trapper decide when, where and how to set a snare or trap to be most effective???????

That’s why I wrote a book so I could be explained more than just a few words. The post that you made on this thread are accurate Based on what I learned in researching for my book. Whether you are a professional trapper or not it verifies what you said.

I’m sorry for being confused but the two example Kirk de posted above say nothing about electromagnetic energy.

If there is a charge on the wire, I’ll assume since the critter’s feet provide grounding, that electro magnetic charge would dissipate as soon as the critter touched the wire. OR, when the grounded trapper touched the wire, the elec mag charge would be neutralized.

I’ll stick to my dumb way of trapping/snaring and leave all this science to you

I just started reading the book.

It's really not as magical and complicated as some are making it out to sound. Seems pretty logical and common sense so far.

Animals are no doubt amazing and interpret the world very differently than we do.

Teacher you are confused because your understanding as to EMF Intensity and how to adjust it or lower it is not correct. The two examples and also bctomcats post reflect how and why the methods and devices they recommended are accurate verified by statements in a short chapter on Snares. It essentially verifies or proves that their statements are correct and how a deviation of different kinds would effect the ability to catch.

It is as MNCedar stated once understood and read. It will eventually seem logical and make sense when understood. I had to read some things 15 times before I could picture accurately what I was observing was taking place. It has been humbling at times, especially when it has been staring me in the face for so long.

Ttt

BEWARE of utube
You can be shown techniques illegal in your state, then end up with a ticket as others on here have done.
Did you get the FREE dvd's?
how?
SURELY, you've guys have asked loved ones for a good snaring dvd for your birthday or last Christmas or anniversary or Labor day gifts?

Ttt before archiving